2011 SPYDER RTS WITH 6800 MILES
TOOK A RIDE TONIGHT.
CRUSING AT ABOUT 85 IN 5TH GEAR WITH THE CRUISE ON
.... E... CAME ON IN THE DIGITAL AREA WHERE THE GEAR IS NORMALLY DISPLAYED.
N AND R WHERE ALSO STARTED FLASHING IN THE ANALOG SPEDOMETER.
ENGINE KEPT RUNNING FINE ON THE WAY HOME PUSHED 70+ A COUPLE OF TIMES ON THE WAY HOME JUST BECAUSE IM STUPID.
KEPT AN EYE ON THE ENGINE TEMP RAN A LITTLE HOTTER ONE MARK PAST HALFWAY USUALLY STAYS CLOSE TO HALFWAY AND I FELT EXTRA HEAT ON MY RIGHT LEG.
LET IT COOL OFF IN THE DRIVEWAY .
STARTED BACK UP AND ALL SEEMS OK
JUST CHECKED THE OIL VERY THIN LIKE WATER
MUST BE ANTIFREEZE
NOW WHAT !!
AN ENGINE REBUILD AT 6800 MILES WITHOUT WARRANTY
I HAVE MY BIKE SERVICED AT A LOCAL DEALER, OIL WAS CHANGED LAST MONTH, ALL FLUIDS WERE REPLACED BY DEALER LAST YEAR ALSO.
I HAD ALSO CHECKED THE ANTIFREEZE LEVEL 2 WEEKS AGO AND THAT WAS FINE.
THEY SHOULD BUILD A BIKE THATS LAST MORE THAN 6800 MILES AND IF THE BIKE CAN'T TAKE CRUISING AT 85 THEY SHOULD TELL YOU!
DOES ANYONE HAVE A CAN AM PHONE NUMBER?
I WOULD LIKE TO REGISTER A COMPLAINT WITH THE MANUFACTURER.
THANKS!!
PISSED
CRAIG
Craig I to have a 2011 RT I have over 30,000 Miles and I have had a couple of hoses replaced and the coolant tank. On both occasions I smelled anti freeze, the tank thing was tough because I did not see any leak. I was out of warranty. I finally found that there was a very small pin ho;e leak that became a fine mist while moving and with RPM's up. I bought a new tank and installed it. Point being , take it easy until you know what it is . These bikes have a great engine but because of all the switches and plastic parts they are sometimes giving the false conclusions.
I have had my problem with antifreeze had to replace the thermostat ...that not what.
I am replying about the photo is very clear about antifreeze and oil.
If there is antifreeze in the oil the you will have a very nasty white cloud as you ride down the road known from experience. my Spyder has 50,000 miles I ride hard I pull a trailer.
Good luck listen to the good advice from the good people above and hang in there. jtpollock
THANKS FOR YOUR POST. MY DEALER IS ALMOST 15 MILES AWAY. HOPE YOUR ALL RIGHT AND I DON'T GET STUCK
I am guessing that the only thing that is stuck is your Caps Lock! Most people find it rude to SHOUT! when asking for advise!
White 2013 Spyder RT Limited. BajaRon Swaybar, Custom Dynamic Third Brake Light. Ultimate Custom Black and White seat with driver and passenger back rest. Gloryder Led Wheel lights.Custom Dynamics Led Bright sides, Amber and Red Fender lights, and Saddle Bag Bright sides.
2016 F3 Limited Intense Red Pearl. Lidlox, BRP Driver Back Rest, BRP Passenger Back Rest,Fog Lights, GPS, Signature Light! Custom Dynamics LED Bright Sides, Amber and Red Fender lights, and Saddle Bag Bright Sides.
I had the same symptoms in terms of lights flashing and the problem was a faulty map (sp?) sensor. One shop replaced the sensor but not the vacuum hoses attached to it. Had same symptoms again and another dealer replaced the vacuum lines to the sensor. While the hoses looked OK with no cracks, the ends were brittle and did not seal so the sensor was losing vacuum.
After finless post checked my hoses and they looked fine. The outer one was still pretty solid but the inner one only looked solid...
then a bit of flexing and was working fine but who knows for how much longer.
Gene and Ilana De Laney Mt. Helix, California
2012 RS sm5
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
Very simple way to check for coolant in oil. Run the engine until exhaust pipe is hot. Pull dip stick and let a drop of oil hit the hot pipe. If it smokes it's just oil. If it sizzles and bubbles, there is water in the oil. Rarely, you can have water in oil and it won't turn milky. There are several reasons for loosing coolant. Improperly installed reservoir cap is a common problem. The caps are not easy to get to and a bear to reinstall. There is a worm clamp on the lower hose that is known to work loose. Make sure it's tight but don't over do it. You can crack the tank. There is also the possibility of a small crack which will show up more after the bike is hot and the tank expands from heat and pressure.
The issue with the "thin" oil, it's not an issue. BRP oil is thin or light. It's the viscosity of semi synthetic oil. And it will get thinner as it gets used. There really isn't any thick oil anymore like in the old days. Oils are processed with additives that thin them out. Unless you run 80 weight.
The E in the gear indicator along with the flashing N and R indicates a sensor issue or possibly an electrical anomaly. I would bet more on the gear position sensor.
While it is your right to complain, don't bash BRP. After all, you don't even know what the problem is and you haven't given the dealer a chance to troubleshoot the bike.
Just my two cents worth.
USAF '69-'89 E7
Thailand/Vietnam 1972
Member: Royal Order of Rat Bastards