F3/F3S - Oil Change Instructions

[kaamacat]

Figured I would post these up, granted my version, but the F3 body is different so some special
items will apply although it is still the 1330 engine.

Tools

T45 (For Left side Oil Plug)

M6 Hex (For Right side Oil Plug)
T25 (For side panel bolts)
Flathead screw driver (Pop the top panel pins)
(??) Mystery wrench or large socket of choice that fits the oil filter top. I had
a 36mm socket.


REMOVAL

1) Open Frunk and remove the front-center black cover. (Pull up on sides then backwards)

2) Remove top-right lateral panel (Use twist lock)
3) Remove right engine panel. (3 top pins, 4-T25 bolts-two rear/two front)

4) Relocate brake reservoir. (Push up reservoir only to unlock, hold up and back, slide something

like a long screwdriver through the opening on its left side to prop it above the frame rail). If you
look behind it there is a molded "T" section that holds it into its mount.

5) Tie a paper towel (etc) around the Oil Filter housing.
6) Unscrew the dipstick but DO NOT REMOVE. (Keeps dust out)

7) Loosen Filter Cap fully (Do not remove yet. This will let the oil drain fully now. Oil may drip onto
that nice towel you just put around the housing)

8) Remove LEFT SIDE oil plug with T45 (make sure it is fully seated)

9) Remove RIGHT SIDE oil plug with M6 Hex (make sure it is fully seated)

10) Let oil drain....a long long time. I did overnight.

11) Remove Oil Filter Housing Cap. By this time all the oil is out of the filter and housing.

(Here is why relocation of the reservoir was needed)
12) Remove the Oil Filter. (Should be almost bone dry drained)

13) Place cotton towelette into filter housing. (Soak up the oil inside at the base)

14) If no more oil is dripping and the housing is dry inside.... Reverse it all.


REPLACE

R1) Insert Oil Filter
R2) Replace Oil Housing with NEW o-rings
R3) Replace both drain plugs with NEW o-rings (Left side), and proper washers. Aluminum on Left
and Copper on right. Torque to 18lbs MAX!
R4) Put brake reservoir back/down into its holding mount.
R5) And this is key.... PUT IN DA OIL. (My F3S/SE6 took the 5.9qts easy...so what's a full 6 among friends!)


OTHER STUFF

I replaced every o-ring, crush washer, and obviously the filter that BajaRon sent, which should
be what you get in the BRP kit. (Filter name is probably different). I torqued the oil-drain plugs

to 18lbs (THAT’S IT and all you need). The oil filter cap BE CAREFUL. This you bottom-out on snug
and that is all it can/will go. There is no more...more, once at bottom. The large o-ring is the main
seal for this. When replacing the side panels, again BE CAREFUL on those T25 bolts and just snug to base.


The left side plug has two o-rings and an the thin aluminum washer. The right side plug has a

copper washer and smaller in diameter. The filter housing has one large o-ring at the top, and
two on the housing base stalk.

I also took the time to clean the engine while the panel was off... Makes it easier to identify
any leaks or whatnot in the future knowing you had cleaned it.

Ran her about 10mins until I had at least 2 bars showing on the temp gauge, rechecked and the
fill was spot-on!

[JayBros]

Except for the panel stuff, just like a '14 or '15 RT. Someone posted a suggestion that I found very useful when changing the O-rings on the oil sump plug. Wrap the threads with masking tape to protect the new O-rings. The threads on the plug ARE sharp.

[kaamacat]

Except for the panel stuff, just like a '14 or '15 RT. Someone posted a suggestion that I found very useful when changing the O-rings on the oil sump plug. Wrap the threads with masking tape to protect the new O-rings. The threads on the plug ARE sharp.

On the RT... I the brake unit in the way to pull off the filter cap as-well?

[JayBros]

On the RT... I the brake unit in the way to pull off the filter cap as-well?

Sorry, I don't understand what you mean. I used a 36 mm socket with an extension and oil filter cap came right out. My Spyder is just like the picture on page 126 of the operator's guide. If the rag in the picture covered the parking brake cable it gave me no problem removing the filter cap. Once unscrewed I tilted the cap toward the arrow and out it came. Maybe something was rerouted a bit between our production runs.

[kaamacat]

Sorry, I don't understand what you mean. I used a 36 mm socket with an extension and oil filter cap came right out. My Spyder is just like the picture on page 126 of the operator's guide. If the rag in the picture covered the parking brake cable it gave me no problem removing the filter cap. Once unscrewed I tilted the cap toward the arrow and out it came. Maybe something was rerouted a bit between our production runs.

Bad spelling on my part...On the F3, for the cap to be removed, the brake reservoir is in the way for a
straight or angled pull-out. (not enough room). The relocation of it allows that to happen. Or basically
there is stuff on top in-the-way.

[JayBros]

Or basically
there is stuff on top in-the-way.

Bummer! Guess we can't have everything on our fun machines. I'm afraid an F3 would really bring out the hooligan in me and the last thing the world needs is more hooligan geezers.

[jcthorne]

Bad spelling on my part...On the F3, for the cap to be removed, the brake reservoir is in the way for a
straight or angled pull-out. (not enough room). The relocation of it allows that to happen. Or basically
there is stuff on top in-the-way.

There is no need to move the master cylinder or to remove the right lateral panel. The filter housing and cap can be removed from the side without removing any body panels and the master cylinder while a bit in the way will not prevent the filter cap from being removed. Once you do it a couple times you know where to snake the cap on its way out.

[dougkelsey]

I just purchased a F3-S SM6. I am new to Can Am and new to this blog, so be nice to me. I have a grand total of 4 miles on my new bike.
1. I have been advised to do the initial oil change at 1000 miles, a different guy at the dealer said 2000 miles. The manual says 3000 miles. What is the general opinion? I like the idea of 1000 miles, but the guy that said 2000 said it would need more time to break in, so wait till 2000.

2. Then the manual calls for the second change at about 9000 miles. I'm used to changing the oil every 5000 miles, but I have never used fully synthetic oil before, an opinion would be great.

I have purchased all the parts for the first 2 oil changes, now I just need some recommendations on when to do them.

Also, the SM6 only has 1 drain plug, right? (dumb question I know)

I hope I did this correctly.

[Roadster Renovations]

I just purchased a F3-S SM6. I am new to Can Am and new to this blog, so be nice to me. I have a grand total of 4 miles on my new bike.
1. I have been advised to do the initial oil change at 1000 miles, a different guy at the dealer said 2000 miles. The manual says 3000 miles. What is the general opinion? I like the idea of 1000 miles, but the guy that said 2000 said it would need more time to break in, so wait till 2000.

2. Then the manual calls for the second change at about 9000 miles. I'm used to changing the oil every 5000 miles, but I have never used fully synthetic oil before, an opinion would be great.

I have purchased all the parts for the first 2 oil changes, now I just need some recommendations on when to do them.

Also, the SM6 only has 1 drain plug, right? (dumb question I know)

I hope I did this correctly.

I had my first oil change for my new F3 at 3k miles. I will do all of my other on it unless a problem occurs. The reason I did that was so that they would have a record of it being done and they could check for any codes or problems. Keep really good records if you do your own. Some of us will send our oil off for analysis to make sure there is not abnormal wear. It is an early warning indicator of a problem. Good insurance for about $20. Buy them at Car Quest. You might read up on some of the older threads about oils and what we have found. Most of the consensus is to not go the 9300 miles between changes. Most do 4-5k. Good luck and congrats on the new ryde!

[dougkelsey]

I had my first oil change for my new F3 at 3k miles. I will do all of my other on it unless a problem occurs. The reason I did that was so that they would have a record of it being done and they could check for any codes or problems. Keep really good records if you do your own. Some of us will send our oil off for analysis to make sure there is not abnormal wear. It is an early warning indicator of a problem. Good insurance for about $20. Buy them at Car Quest. You might read up on some of the older threads about oils and what we have found. Most of the consensus is to not go the 9300 miles between changes. Most do 4-5k. Good luck and congrats on the new ryde!

Thanks, any other opinions out there? I think I'll do first at 1000 then second at 5000 then every 5000k. Also, should I just stick with the spider oil(full synthetic) or better to use the amsoil I have read about in this blog.

[deer30084]

I once bought a big boxed ratcheting wrench needed to adjust the belt on a 2006 Road King Classic. I never used the wrench because the belt never needed adjusting. I put the tool in one of my tool boxes and left it there. I read on one of these threads you needed a 36mm boxed ratcheting wrench to get the oil filter cap off without removing side panels and moving the brake reservoir on a 2015 Spyder F3. Guess what?

[Lamonster]

Thanks, any other opinions out there? I think I'll do first at 1000 then second at 5000 then every 5000k. Also, should I just stick with the spider oil(full synthetic) or better to use the amsoil I have read about in this blog.

This might help too. http://www.lamonstergarage.com/news/...-change-video/

[modagwood]

Figured I would post these up, granted my version, but the F3 body is different so some special
items will apply although it is still the 1330 engine.

Tools

T45 (For Left side Oil Plug)

M6 Hex (For Right side Oil Plug)
T25 (For side panel bolts)
Flathead screw driver (Pop the top panel pins)
(??) Mystery wrench or large socket of choice that fits the oil filter top. I had
a 36mm socket.


REMOVAL

1) Open Frunk and remove the front-center black cover. (Pull up on sides then backwards)

2) Remove top-right lateral panel (Use twist lock)
3) Remove right engine panel. (3 top pins, 4-T25 bolts-two rear/two front)

4) Relocate brake reservoir. (Push up reservoir only to unlock, hold up and back, slide something

like a long screwdriver through the opening on its left side to prop it above the frame rail). If you
look behind it there is a molded "T" section that holds it into its mount.

5) Tie a paper towel (etc) around the Oil Filter housing.
6) Unscrew the dipstick but DO NOT REMOVE. (Keeps dust out)

7) Loosen Filter Cap fully (Do not remove yet. This will let the oil drain fully now. Oil may drip onto
that nice towel you just put around the housing)

8) Remove LEFT SIDE oil plug with T45 (make sure it is fully seated)

9) Remove RIGHT SIDE oil plug with M6 Hex (make sure it is fully seated)

10) Let oil drain....a long long time. I did overnight.

11) Remove Oil Filter Housing Cap. By this time all the oil is out of the filter and housing.

(Here is why relocation of the reservoir was needed)
12) Remove the Oil Filter. (Should be almost bone dry drained)

13) Place cotton towelette into filter housing. (Soak up the oil inside at the base)

14) If no more oil is dripping and the housing is dry inside.... Reverse it all.


REPLACE

R1) Insert Oil Filter
R2) Replace Oil Housing with NEW o-rings
R3) Replace both drain plugs with NEW o-rings (Left side), and proper washers. Aluminum on Left
and Copper on right. Torque to 18lbs MAX!
R4) Put brake reservoir back/down into its holding mount.
R5) And this is key.... PUT IN DA OIL. (My F3S/SE6 took the 5.9qts easy...so what's a full 6 among friends!)


OTHER STUFF

I replaced every o-ring, crush washer, and obviously the filter that BajaRon sent, which should
be what you get in the BRP kit. (Filter name is probably different). I torqued the oil-drain plugs

to 18lbs (THAT’S IT and all you need). The oil filter cap BE CAREFUL. This you bottom-out on snug
and that is all it can/will go. There is no more...more, once at bottom. The large o-ring is the main
seal for this. When replacing the side panels, again BE CAREFUL on those T25 bolts and just snug to base.


The left side plug has two o-rings and an the thin aluminum washer. The right side plug has a

copper washer and smaller in diameter. The filter housing has one large o-ring at the top, and
two on the housing base stalk.

I also took the time to clean the engine while the panel was off... Makes it easier to identify
any leaks or whatnot in the future knowing you had cleaned it.

Ran her about 10mins until I had at least 2 bars showing on the temp gauge, rechecked and the
fill was spot-on!

when changing oil on an RT using these instructions, do you need to remove the mirrors? Thank you

[jcthorne]

when changing oil on an RT using these instructions, do you need to remove the mirrors? Thank you

On
a 2014 or newer RT, yes you will need to remove the right side mirror to get the right side body panels off. The filter is behind them.

[JayBros]

Watch this video and you can save removing all of the right side body panels the manual says you need to.

[jcthorne]

Watch this video and you can save removing all of the right side body panels the manual says you need to.

On an 1330 RT? There is no way to change the filter without removal of the right side panel.

[deer30084]

I had my first oil change for my new F3 at 3k miles. I will do all of my other on it unless a problem occurs. The reason I did that was so that they would have a record of it being done and they could check for any codes or problems. Keep really good records if you do your own. Some of us will send our oil off for analysis to make sure there is not abnormal wear. It is an early warning indicator of a problem. Good insurance for about $20. Buy them at Car Quest. You might read up on some of the older threads about oils and what we have found. Most of the consensus is to not go the 9300 miles between changes. Most do 4-5k. Good luck and congrats on the new ryde!

Sorry, but I don't read that as ".....9300 between (oil) changes." I read it as to change it AT 9300 miles which is a 6300 mile interval.