My DIY LED lighting for $40

[finless]

Thanks to Phil for the tips.

I decided to add some lighting but did not want to add to the top sides just the bottom.

I found on ebay an entire LED strip kit for about $40.
It came with two 16' rolls of RGB LED. These are 5050 60 LED count, ip65 waterproof and came with remote and driver.
I only needed about 3/4 of one roll.

Now this was a hard project! You have to know how to solder. You have to buy connectors and wire. You have to plan it all out so things can be unplugged for service! The project took me all day.



Bob

[finless]

Here is the short version of the above video showing just the lighting and how it works.

This is for those that don't want to hear me babble on about the how too's as in the above video



Bob

[Chupaca]

Really looks great. Lot of work but worth it if you want a very cool set up. Congrats on the job and videos...

[Phil]

Great work Bob!

You're correct about the planning and plenty of connectors! I have loads of hand schematics over the years to keep me sane!

One of my tricks is to run 'bus' wires along the frame and then tap on to it where needed. On DARTH II, there are 3 zones of RGB, so there are 3 sets of 4 conductor wires that run around the frame. Depending on the zone I wanted for the windshield, or the clear wings, or under the pike, etc... I use Positaps to tap onto the wire set needed. The frame wiring virtually never needs to be removed, and Positaps make it easy to disconnect things if needed. All 4 sets of wires source from the left saddlebag where all of the controllers live.

Then again, sometimes I just get tired and cheat!

[finless]

Great work Bob!

You're correct about the planning and plenty of connectors! I have loads of hand schematics over the years to keep me sane!

One of my tricks is to run 'bus' wires along the frame and then tap on to it where needed. On DARTH II, there are 3 zones of RGB, so there are 3 sets of 4 conductor wires that run around the frame. Depending on the zone I wanted for the windshield, or the clear wings, or under the pike, etc... I use Positaps to tap onto the wire set needed. The frame wiring virtually never needs to be removed, and Positaps make it easy to disconnect things if needed. All 4 sets of wires source from the left saddlebag where all of the controllers live.

Then again, sometimes I just get tired and cheat!

Yes basically I have one long wire running from the controller under the passenger grip up to just in front of the fog light. On that end I have 4 connectors. The 4 connectors then allow you to unplug the frunk, unplug the left or right struts, and unplug the bottom frame LED strip. So basically I have a buss line running up the left side. I can also add more there by making pig-tails that would plug in between the existing 4 connectors.

Also water proof connectors are very expensive. So I used cheap AMP connectors and water proofed them myself with RTV.

Bob

[pitzerwm]

Did you just peel and stick them here and there under the bike? Instead of just running the 16' around, you cut it into smaller pieces to do a neater job of it? You mention connectors, did you use the "made for them" from Ebay or just use something else? I picked up 3 rolls of the strips, so mine should look like a Xmas tree.

[finless]

Did you just peel and stick them here and there under the bike? Instead of just running the 16' around, you cut it into smaller pieces to do a neater job of it? You mention connectors, did you use the "made for them" from Ebay or just use something else? I picked up 3 rolls of the strips, so mine should look like a Xmas tree.

I cut the strips to the lengths I needed and soldered cables to them. I then put Silicon sealant over the solder pads on the strips and then put heat shrink tube over that. When the heat shrink tube "shrunk" when I heated it, the silicon oozed out. This made sure the solder connections were water tight.

I did use the sticky double side tape they came with but this did not stick well enough for my liking. On the struts I also secured them with tie wraps.
Where I stuck the strips to flat surfaces (like the skid plate and bottom of the frame) I followed up on each side of the strips with silicon sealant and my finger. Kind of like calking around a shower tub. This was just to make sure they did not come off easily.

As for the connectors I went to a Electronics store and bough 4 pin connectors. The cheapest I could find. After putting the pins and wires in, I then sealed the back holes with wires off with silicon to water proof the connectors. This was far cheaper than buying Delphi waterproof connectors!!!!

I did this project back in October just before Halloween and no issues to date.

I will just say.... All the planning, cutting strips, planning the wire runs, solders, adding connectors, etc. Took the entire weekend.
Most the time was in the planning!

Bob

[pitzerwm]

http://flash.newegg.com/Product/9SIA...9SIA76H2GT1154


I have these and they work good. There are 44 color remotes, but you really don't need them, this will work fine.

[ARtraveler]

A great lighting set up. Thanks for the video.

[Phil]

http://flash.newegg.com/Product/9SIA...9SIA76H2GT1154


I have these and they work good. There are 44 color remotes, but you really don't need them, this will work fine.

Hey Bill- That product is sold under many names. I've installed it for friends several times and it works very well. For my bike, I wanted Wifi remoting to control it from my phone and the possibility of adding DMX control to it in the future. Hence, I sent a different control direction.


http://vid1188.photobucket.com/album...9BD72A13E5.mp4

[spydaman60]

thanks for the post. nice job!

[forgiven1823]

Hey Phil,very nice! I just bought a 2012 RT with 3800 miles and I am doing some up grades,I like your Floor Boards,what kind are they?


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