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ACE 1330 Oil Change Without Filter Change
Here's the given as I understand it: For an SE6 oil and filter change we should use 4.7 L or an even 5 Qt. For those of you who are doing an oil change at less than 9,300 miles and are not changing the oil filter, how much less oil are you refilling with to compensate for the unchanged filter and the amount of oil that will remain in the filter housing?
OR, are you changing the filter every time you change oil regardless of interval?
I'm not being cheap, just figure if BRP says a filter can go 9,300 why not replace it at every other oil change.
Thank you.
Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
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Cognac 2014 RT-S
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But if you want clean oil why not change all the oil and filter whatever the interval?
2016 F3 Limited
2019 Ryker Rally
2014 Suzuki V Strom 650
2020 CSC TT 250
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Here's what you do..!!
If you don't do the filter refill the oil as you should. Capasities is not the way to do it. Refill a quart low, start the egine bring it to operating temp and measure then top off. The draining process can vary and overfilling is harder to deal with. Filter will last much longer so you don't have to do it each time but I use kits and it's all there so why not do it...
Gene and Ilana De Laney
Mt. Helix, California
2012 RS sm5
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
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Just me, for the price of the filter I change it with the oil...
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Originally Posted by Purple Guy
Just me, for the price of the filter I change it with the oil...
You said it better than I did.
2016 F3 Limited
2019 Ryker Rally
2014 Suzuki V Strom 650
2020 CSC TT 250
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Considering the price of a filter, I also replace the filter and the oil at each oil change.
Remember the old saying? If you don't replace both, you new oil is contaminated by the glop that remains in the filter.
Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.
Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)
MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles
IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
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Originally Posted by JayBros
Here's the given as I understand it: For an SE6 oil and filter change we should use 4.7 L or an even 5 Qt. For those of you who are doing an oil change at less than 9,300 miles and are not changing the oil filter, how much less oil are you refilling with to compensate for the unchanged filter and the amount of oil that will remain in the filter housing?
OR, are you changing the filter every time you change oil regardless of interval?
I'm not being cheap, just figure if BRP says a filter can go 9,300 why not replace it at every other oil change.
Thank you.
Jay, I change the filter every other time and oil at 4000. It takes 5 qt nicely, either way. Filter doesn't seem to make a diff.
Two Wheelers from 1963-2011
Three Wheelers:
2011 RT(Red)
2014 RT(white)
2016 F3T(red)
2022 RT current ride(silver)
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2016 Slingshot
2018 Vanderhall
2019 Slingshot
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Originally Posted by Purple Guy
Just me, for the price of the filter I change it with the oil...
Originally Posted by Highwayman2013
You said it better than I did.
...And with both of them...
If you want to save money; buy the Store-Brand Peanut Butter instead!
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Registered Users
for the bike investment, oil w a filter change is a cheap investment.
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Think About It
People spend hunderds/thousands of dollars on accessories(farkels) to make their Spyder look cool. Why are we even talking about the cost of an oil filter?????????????????????
2021 Marsala Red Metallic RT Limited
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maybe its not the cost of a oil filter... it just may be because its so much trouble & time to get to the darn thing..
osm
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OK where do I send oil
Have been reading many opinions on SLs about changing oil intervals on the 1330....I have been just following BRP recommendations...but I am getting ready for oil/filter change and by the time it occurs I will be at 10k miles...a little over. What I would like to do is send some of that oil to the "oil gods" and get all those facts about breaking down, etc. So gurus...where do I send?...how do I send?..cost for the analysis?
Yep the oil "itch" needs scratched. Thanks..I will share results here.
Have a great day..it is a wonderful day to be alive!!!
My Motto Is:
Live my life in such a way that when my feet hit the floor in the morning...Satan shudders & says "Oh, crap, SHE'S awake!"
Red Stallion: 2016 F3t SE6 (from Pitbull PowerSports/ Springfield, MO)
White Knight: 2014 RTS SE6 and matching 622 trailer (from Pitbull
PowerSports/ Springfield, MO)
Ms Spydee: 2010 RT SE5
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Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911
...... I don't see the need to change an OIL filter ( good for 9300 miles per BRP ) at 5000 miles ( I'm using Full Syn Oil )...When I change my Oil at 5000 miles, and may only go another 1 or 2 thousand more that year....... You have a lot of Owner's here going 9300 miles with BRP blended oil and filter change ...per BRP recommendations........Mike
As I mentioned in the initial post, this is not at all an issue of the expense of the oil filter; the real question is with filter manufacturing technology is it really necessary to change the filter when doing a mid course oil change because some of us are concerned with viscosity breakdown well short of the 9,300 mile change interval. My operator's guide does say to change the filter each time the oil is changed and if a reader takes that direction along with the 9,300 interval I would definitely agree. I've not seen an automotive oil filter manufacturer, not long haul truck service, advertising filter life in excess of 15,000 miles. If someone wants to debate whether an oil filter's cleanliness impacts the viscosity breakdown of the oil itself I have neither the education nor the experience to participate in such a thread. The primary reason behind my original question was to ensure that if I were to not change the filter what would be a reasonable initial refill amount to ensure that I was not overfilling the engine because of the amount of oil remaining in the filter and canister after the crankcase and transmission were drained. We've seen elsewhere on SL the alleged reduction of engine power if the engine is overfilled.
My main objective, in addition to satisfying my own uncertainty about viscosity breakdown, is to hopefully provide analysis reports of at least the first two types of oil I've fed the engine and, if I stay with Mobil 1 will compare two successive oil changes to see how consistently it performs.
Considering the bucks we have invested in our machines, debate about the best way to protect those investments is good IMO.
Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
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Cognac 2014 RT-S
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Its amazing what is inside your engine oil and filter..Stuff you cannot see..Anytime changing the oil a filter should be replaced...IMO..
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Originally Posted by murphybrown
Have been reading many opinions on SLs about changing oil intervals on the 1330....I have been just following BRP recommendations...but I am getting ready for oil/filter change and by the time it occurs I will be at 10k miles...a little over. What I would like to do is send some of that oil to the "oil gods" and get all those facts about breaking down, etc. So gurus...where do I send?...how do I send?..cost for the analysis?
Yep the oil "itch" needs scratched. Thanks..I will share results here.
Have a great day..it is a wonderful day to be alive!!!
Perhaps someplace like this?
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/free-test-kits.php
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I have never done this for my spyder. I have used Blackstone labs many times when I raced my BMW E46 M3. They do great work and proved great information. I would like to see the results of the oil after BRP recommended service interval.
Originally Posted by Bob Denman
2015 an Am Spyder RT Limited
2013 Yamaha WR250R - Sold
2011 Can Am Spyder RT-S SE5 Limited - Sold
2011 Aspen Sentry Trailer
2003 BMW K1200LT - Sold
2007 Unigo Trailer - Sold
2001 BMW K1200LT - Sold
2001 Honda 750 NightHawk - sold
2015 RT Ltd , Canamspyderaccessories Brake pedal ext. Red
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I know that there are lots of other places.
I just "Googled-up "Engine oil analysis Kits", and they popped up!
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I bought two kits, from Wix, through amazon.com for $37.70. Cost of kit includes analysis. Same kits are supposed to be available from Napa auto stores but the folks around here who run them are idiots who know nothing about how to get them for a customer.
Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
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Cognac 2014 RT-S
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I know Grainger sells oil analysis kits
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2018 F3 Limited, BRP Driver Backrest, Spyderpops Lighted Bump Skid, Dual Spyclops Light, Mirror Turn Signals, Laser Alignment, Engine LEDs, Fog Lights With Halo's, Cushion Handgrips, BRT LEDs, and Under Lighting, Lamonster IPS, (with Clock), F4 25" Vented Windshield with Wings, Airhawk "R" Cushions. Position 4 Brake setting, Short reach Handlebars, Dash Mounted Voltmeter and 12 Volt Plug. Set of 3rd pegs. Extended Passenger Seat. Exterior BRP Connect setup, Ultimate Trailer
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Just did a oil change on my better halfs rts yesterday.It really isn't that hard to pull the fairing. I know you are all in debate over the filter that was $15 but what about the three orings? I think they should be part of the filter but had to spend another $18 on them. It did only take 5 quarts. As for the debate my harley and her rt will get a complete oil change every 5000 miles.
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I'M TRYING THESE
Originally Posted by R.Blackurn
Just did a oil change on my better halfs rts yesterday.It really isn't that hard to pull the fairing. I know you are all in debate over the filter that was $15 but what about the three orings? I think they should be part of the filter but had to spend another $18 on them. It did only take 5 quarts. As for the debate my harley and her rt will get a complete oil change every 5000 miles.
I switched to FIBER washers .....2000 miles and so far no leaks.......was told they will outlast rubber by a lot......and I paid $1 ea......Mike
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