Serious problem with 2012 RTS

[Anakrid]

My 2012 RTS is unusable and my mechanic is stumped. It runs for about 10 minutes then loses power, spits a bit, small back fires, blubbers, stops, no response from throttle but will idle. Seems to be heat related except temp gauge shows lower then usual temps. Speedo pulses at idle. Will run again after 30 minute cool down. Not one fault showing anywhere. have spent terrible amount trying to fix. Help? Yes gas is good, wiring checked to some degree. Battery shows as good. Surely there is way to plug in and diagnose these machines----------was told that BRP techs were no help from dealer call in line which sounds goofy to me.

[Bob Denman]

Have you tried pulling up any active error codes when it starts acting-up?
Lay your thumb across both, the "mode", and "set" buttons...
Then; push in the turnsignal switch... just like you would if you were cancelling a signal.
WRITE DOWN any codes that pop up on the main screen!
push "mode" again, and you're out of the diagnostic mode.

[bcoulter19]

It sounds like it sucking something up the fuel line.

[Olddood]

Don't know if this applies to the Spyder but I had a car that did that. After a lot of head scratching by myself and service personnel, It was discovered that the EGR valve was sucking air when it opened after the engine warmed up (punctured diaphragm). Hope this might be helpful......

[Bob Denman]

Instead of just "Throwing Darts in the Dark..."; let's see if the bike is throwing any codes first.

[Wiredux]

What's does BUDS say? You dealer tech should have access. If not there are other issues. BUDS would have a bunch of information.

[Bob Denman]

He's saying "mechanic", not "dealer".
His guy may not have access to BUDS...
We don't know for sure.

[Highwayman2013]

It could be as simple as the gas filter, but Buds should show something.

[Chupaca]

does your mechanic have access to the "buds" diagnostic system for spyders..?? As Bob explained, codes should come up if you search them when the problem starts and before you shut it off. You mentioned some electrical checks...coil, wires and plugs can malfunction once warmed up but there are other sensors like the cam position sensor, idle sensor, O2 sensor that malfunctioning. These machines store all the problem codes and if they can't be downloaded it is hard to find some problems...

[bruiser]

Agree with Gene. BUDS is a must. There is the possibility of something blocking the fuel pickup, fuel pump failure, fuel filter media collapse. Check the vacuum lines to the MAP sensor. Check for air intake obstruction. You mentioned no throttle response, do you mean no acceleration at all or stalling when you try to accelerate?

You may have to trailer it to Cowtown or Pit Bull.

[jcthorne]

Needs BUDS hooked up while taking a ride. What what happens to fuel pressure and throttle position.

Could also be ignition that misfires as the wires or plugs heat up, but does not really sound like it.

And why have you spent anything if the mechanic has not fixed the problem. You should not be paying ANY mechanic, BRP or otherwise to throw parts at it. Guessing does not work. If he diagnosed and you agree to replace the part and its not fixed, tell him to take it off and try again, it was his faulty diagnosis. Dont pay for shoddy work. If he does not have the tools to diagnose, he should not be working on the bike.

[Bob Denman]

Needs BUDS hooked up while taking a ride. What what happens to fuel pressure and throttle position.

And why have you spent anything if the mechanic has not fixed the problem. You should not be paying ANY mechanic, BRP or otherwise to throw parts at it. Guessing does not work. If he diagnosed and you agree to replace the part and its not fixed, tell him to take it off and try again, it was his faulty diagnosis. Dont pay for shoddy work. If he does not have the tools to diagnose, he should not be working on the bike.

[Anakrid]

Have you tried pulling up any active error codes when it starts acting-up?
Lay your thumb across both, the "mode", and "set" buttons...
Then; push in the turnsignal switch... just like you would if you were cancelling a signal.
WRITE DOWN any codes that pop up on the main screen!
push "mode" again, and you're out of the diagnostic mode.

Thanks so much Bob, will give this a try and once we're happy again will post the cure we find.

[Bob Denman]

Good Luck!

[ARtraveler]

All good advice above. We will be watching for the information about the "cure."

[Anakrid]

Great response and information. Will relay all to our repair folks. Yes to some that they were not using proper error code research which I suspected myself. Hard to find trained folks in my area but working on that. Thanks again!

[Bob Denman]

How far are you from Springfield?
Or Cuba?

We know that there's a bunch of real good folks down there...

[Anakrid]

How far are you from Springfield?
Or Cuba?

We know that there's a bunch of real good folks down there...

The problem began near there, Lebanon but we are back home near St. Louis. Having some trouble finding trained Sypder folks but working on it---Thanks so much for the information and help!

[Bob Denman]

You might want to kick around a bit in the "SpyderLovers Chapters" Area of the forum.
Look in Missouri, and you could ask some questions in there about finding a good dealer in your area...

[Anakrid]

Agree with Gene. BUDS is a must. There is the possibility of something blocking the fuel pickup, fuel pump failure, fuel filter media collapse. Check the vacuum lines to the MAP sensor. Check for air intake obstruction. You mentioned no throttle response, do you mean no acceleration at all or stalling when you try to accelerate?

You may have to trailer it to Cowtown or Pit Bull.

When it acts up and stalls----------restart brings restart but throttle is unresponsive--turn but no go---once it cools off ,30 minutes or so it starts and responses again. We're back in St. Charles again now--working with local folks at Quicktime Motor Sports for now. With the information you and others have given I am hopeful now. Can't sleep when my baby is sick------old fool I guess.

[Wiredux]

The problem began near there, Lebanon but we are back home near St. Louis. Having some trouble finding trained Sypder folks but working on it---Thanks so much for the information and help!

It would be worth the drive to Springfield MO. You have Pitbull Powersports there. Their lead mech Chris is top notch.

[Bob Denman]

That's got to be about a 250 mile, one-way trip...
But for good service; it might be worth it!

[DR Buck]

That's got to be about a 250 mile, one-way trip...
But for good service; it might be worth it!

That's why they make trailers. And, FWIW I'm in the "fuel filter" camp.

[kngfsh27]

Not really very far from Cuba. Springfield will be about a 250 mile round trip. Might be a Spyderfest repair. We are getting close.

[ahh-cool]

Sounds like water in the fuel.
Take the plastic off and get it running.
spray starting fluid around but, not in the carb. and see if that gives you any change.
You say the fuel is good, what does that mean?
Drain the fuel tank put 4oz of clear rubbing alcohol and fill it with fuel. then start it and see if it gets better