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Thread: Heated Grips

  1. #26
    Very Active Member Wildrice's Avatar
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    Default small plug location for heated grips

    Quote Originally Posted by llyrad View Post
    Has anyone installed the Heated Grips from BRP on their F3 yet? I am on the fence about them, as I am not sure how difficult they are to install..(kind of scary thinking about removing the hardware from the handlebars for someone of my limited ability)

    I'll let the dealership do it if I Have too, but would prefer to do it myself.

    Any experience / advice that can be offered would be greatly appreciated.

    Below are the 2 small plugs being held by forceps. They were initially hidden with pop off plugs under the black housing.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    2015 F3's , two 12 volt power outlets Orange & Black

  2. #27
    Very Active Member Ron2andia's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Darren111 View Post
    My heated grips have been fitted by dealer. I will let you know my opinions of heated grips when my F3-S is delivered to me Friday. Not long now before she arrives and me posting pics of her for you.
    Right behind you on Saturday for mine!
    Live, Love, and Ride! God Bless!

  3. #28
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    I wish someone would start posting videos on some of these F3 accessories installs!!!!!!

  4. #29
    Very Active Member Wildrice's Avatar
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    Default installation video

    Quote Originally Posted by Tazzel View Post
    I wish someone would start posting videos on some of these F3 accessories installs!!!!!!
    That wouldbe extremely difficult as the connectors are hiden under various stationary covers---video would need a mirror view & the length of the video prohibitive.

    But quality installation instructions would be possible. don't understand their need to post 3 - 4 photo's of where to cut tie wraps--cutting tie wraps is just common sense when unbundling a a basic wire grup. If you need help msg me & I'll do my best to help you.
    Darrell
    2015 F3's , two 12 volt power outlets Orange & Black

  5. #30
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    Default Stalled Installation

    Been trying to install grips on a F3-T and I'm at a standstill due to the extremely poor installation instructions. BRP should be embarrassed by these instructions, haven't seen such poor ones ever!

    How do you take off the black panels on either side of the gas tank? Looks like I need to take off the console too, any suggestions.

  6. #31
    Active Member SpyderGTL's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BikerBabe View Post
    Been trying to install grips on a F3-T and I'm at a standstill due to the extremely poor installation instructions. BRP should be embarrassed by these instructions, haven't seen such poor ones ever!

    How do you take off the black panels on either side of the gas tank? Looks like I need to take off the console too, any suggestions.

    I just installed the heated handgrips on my wife's new F3-T (picked it up yesterday). I had installed them on my F3-S a year ago. It was a tad more challenging on the T. If I can remember correctly, several panels had to come off, I think in this order... Besides the large side panels, the nose piece around the headlights came off - one bolt on the centerline of the Spyder on the lower edge of the panel, then it pulled off by pulling it forward - just tabs in slots for the rest, I think. The dash/speaker cover panel came off next. It just pulled straight back. Then come the two top side panels, on either side of the Spyder. These two panels have two plastic push-fasteners per side, then the tab from hell at the back edge, same as the original F3's. For these panels, once the plastic push fasteners are removed, you grab the front edge and pull, rotating the panel out in the plane of the panel, pivoting about the back edge. When you hear a large snap and you swear you've just broken something, the panel is free from the Spyder. I forgot to make my wife leave the garage when I did that part. She was in tears because she thought I had broken something on her day-old Spyder. Then I removed the top tank cover and finally the flat black plastic cover ahead of the ignition switch. You have to remove at least the panel on the top right hand side to get to the connectors for the heated grips.

    Good luck on the panel removal! I agree that the instructions could stand quite a bit more detail! Here's what hers looks like with those panels removed.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    - Carl

    2017 Can Am F3-L (current ryde)
    2015 Can Am F3-S (previous ryde)
    2012 BMW K1600 (previous ride)
    2016 Can Am F3-T (wife's)


  7. #32
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    Wink Heated Grip Install on 2015 F3S August, 2017

    After reading and viewing all the information on the grip installations I decided to add something from a tinkerer's point of view. I ride year round in South Jersey when permissable. I do use heated gloves and an added source of warmth never hurts especially when its in the thirties and twenties, then add in the wind chill factor.
    August, 2017 Heated Grip Installation 2015 F3


    To install the heated grips on the F3 you will have to take apart the right & left handlebar controls. You will have to remove the front fairing and right side panel, which is where the connectors are located. Protect the left side panel as you will have to lay the left handlebar control on something when you remove the left handle bar completely to fit the heated grip wiring in the slot.
    It helps to have a shop manual/CD which can help you with the removal & install. If you do not, just keep like parts and screws together & do one grip at a time. One other tip, have some good lighting which will help to locate those elusive connectors on the right upper side. Use the pictures from others members who took on this task. I took pictures of the pictures and they were helpful.
    I removed the right side panel first. It has four T-25 screws and plastic push connectors that you will have to pry up to remove. Set these items aside and together.
    I next set out to remove the left handlebar. Remove the metric hex head 5mm bolt that holds the end cap on. The control, it has five 3mm metric hex head screws that hold it together. You have to remove the two bolts T-25 torx that hold the master cylinder in place to get to one of the control screws. I set all these items on the protected left side cover. There is another cover that helps hold the cables in place on the handlebar. It has two metric hex head bolts 5mm that will have to be removed. I placed this cover with the other parts for the left handlebar. Once this was done I pulled out the slotted left metal handlebar I fit the heated grip into place & on the bar. I began to reassemble the parts. I used the picture in the instructions to put the wire from the grip in the correct position during reassembly.
    The right throttle side is similar except when you remove the end cap there is a spring and a spacer inside. Watch how they come out. They go back in the new heated grip the same way. There is a small hold inside the grip where one end of the spring fits into so it is flush and you can reinstall the end cap. You will have to remove the (4) 3mm screws that hold the controls together and two 5mm bolts that hold the cover in place. This cover holds the cables in place. Remove the right throttle grip and put the new wired grip on. I took this right side wire and then the left side wire from the grip and put them in the connectors on the right side of the bike as per the pictures from BRP. (This is where using extra lighting helps you to see what you are doing.) The right side cable has an extra plug that goes in the place of the old plug from the old throttle. (No instructions) The wires are the same color. Once the three connectors are put in place, take the right side wiring and fit it into the black braided cover that holds the other cables for the right side. Turn the handlebars to their farthest point both right and left so that you have enough cable and nothing is stretched too far. Install the push handlebar switch per the pictures & plug it in. Test the switch to see if it heats the grips. Install cable ties on the new grip wires where needed for support and neatness. If it works start to reassemble covers and fairings.
    The above is from a tinkerer who likes to do things for himself and is grateful to all the members that share their advice, pictures and knowledge on any subject.

  8. #33
    Very Active Member Wildrice's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by natedupree View Post
    After reading and viewing all the information on the grip installations I decided to add something from a tinkerer's point of view. I ride year round in South Jersey when permissable. I do use heated gloves and an added source of warmth never hurts especially when its in the thirties and twenties, then add in the wind chill factor.
    August, 2017 Heated Grip Installation 2015 F3


    To install the heated grips on the F3 you will have to take apart the right & left handlebar controls. You will have to remove the front fairing and right side panel, which is where the connectors are located. Protect the left side panel as you will have to lay the left handlebar control on something when you remove the left handle bar completely to fit the heated grip wiring in the slot.
    It helps to have a shop manual/CD which can help you with the removal & install. If you do not, just keep like parts and screws together & do one grip at a time. One other tip, have some good lighting which will help to locate those elusive connectors on the right upper side. Use the pictures from others members who took on this task. I took pictures of the pictures and they were helpful.
    I removed the right side panel first. It has four T-25 screws and plastic push connectors that you will have to pry up to remove. Set these items aside and together.
    I next set out to remove the left handlebar. Remove the metric hex head 5mm bolt that holds the end cap on. The control, it has five 3mm metric hex head screws that hold it together. You have to remove the two bolts T-25 torx that hold the master cylinder in place to get to one of the control screws. I set all these items on the protected left side cover. There is another cover that helps hold the cables in place on the handlebar. It has two metric hex head bolts 5mm that will have to be removed. I placed this cover with the other parts for the left handlebar. Once this was done I pulled out the slotted left metal handlebar I fit the heated grip into place & on the bar. I began to reassemble the parts. I used the picture in the instructions to put the wire from the grip in the correct position during reassembly.
    The right throttle side is similar except when you remove the end cap there is a spring and a spacer inside. Watch how they come out. They go back in the new heated grip the same way. There is a small hold inside the grip where one end of the spring fits into so it is flush and you can reinstall the end cap. You will have to remove the (4) 3mm screws that hold the controls together and two 5mm bolts that hold the cover in place. This cover holds the cables in place. Remove the right throttle grip and put the new wired grip on. I took this right side wire and then the left side wire from the grip and put them in the connectors on the right side of the bike as per the pictures from BRP. (This is where using extra lighting helps you to see what you are doing.) The right side cable has an extra plug that goes in the place of the old plug from the old throttle. (No instructions) The wires are the same color. Once the three connectors are put in place, take the right side wiring and fit it into the black braided cover that holds the other cables for the right side. Turn the handlebars to their farthest point both right and left so that you have enough cable and nothing is stretched too far. Install the push handlebar switch per the pictures & plug it in. Test the switch to see if it heats the grips. Install cable ties on the new grip wires where needed for support and neatness. If it works start to reassemble covers and fairings.
    The above is from a tinkerer who likes to do things for himself and is grateful to all the members that share their advice, pictures and knowledge on any subject.
    Attached are 2 photo's from my 2015 installation. The only thing I remember is that I had to cut-reduce the size of the bushing.

    Electrical connection :http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...ps8f1dr5tr.jpg

    Cut bushing photo: http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...ps8of65tol.jpg

    Does not apply to procedure: http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...ygoesbad-1.jpg

    Darrell
    Last edited by Wildrice; 09-22-2017 at 11:29 AM.
    2015 F3's , two 12 volt power outlets Orange & Black

  9. #34
    Active Member robtdonna's Avatar
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    Great write up, just received my heated grips and will be tackling this soon. Thanks!

    Quote Originally Posted by natedupree View Post
    After reading and viewing all the information on the grip installations I decided to add something from a tinkerer's point of view. I ride year round in South Jersey when permissable. I do use heated gloves and an added source of warmth never hurts especially when its in the thirties and twenties, then add in the wind chill factor.
    August, 2017 Heated Grip Installation 2015 F3


    To install the heated grips on the F3 you will have to take apart the right & left handlebar controls. You will have to remove the front fairing and right side panel, which is where the connectors are located. Protect the left side panel as you will have to lay the left handlebar control on something when you remove the left handle bar completely to fit the heated grip wiring in the slot.
    It helps to have a shop manual/CD which can help you with the removal & install. If you do not, just keep like parts and screws together & do one grip at a time. One other tip, have some good lighting which will help to locate those elusive connectors on the right upper side. Use the pictures from others members who took on this task. I took pictures of the pictures and they were helpful.
    I removed the right side panel first. It has four T-25 screws and plastic push connectors that you will have to pry up to remove. Set these items aside and together.
    I next set out to remove the left handlebar. Remove the metric hex head 5mm bolt that holds the end cap on. The control, it has five 3mm metric hex head screws that hold it together. You have to remove the two bolts T-25 torx that hold the master cylinder in place to get to one of the control screws. I set all these items on the protected left side cover. There is another cover that helps hold the cables in place on the handlebar. It has two metric hex head bolts 5mm that will have to be removed. I placed this cover with the other parts for the left handlebar. Once this was done I pulled out the slotted left metal handlebar I fit the heated grip into place & on the bar. I began to reassemble the parts. I used the picture in the instructions to put the wire from the grip in the correct position during reassembly.
    The right throttle side is similar except when you remove the end cap there is a spring and a spacer inside. Watch how they come out. They go back in the new heated grip the same way. There is a small hold inside the grip where one end of the spring fits into so it is flush and you can reinstall the end cap. You will have to remove the (4) 3mm screws that hold the controls together and two 5mm bolts that hold the cover in place. This cover holds the cables in place. Remove the right throttle grip and put the new wired grip on. I took this right side wire and then the left side wire from the grip and put them in the connectors on the right side of the bike as per the pictures from BRP. (This is where using extra lighting helps you to see what you are doing.) The right side cable has an extra plug that goes in the place of the old plug from the old throttle. (No instructions) The wires are the same color. Once the three connectors are put in place, take the right side wiring and fit it into the black braided cover that holds the other cables for the right side. Turn the handlebars to their farthest point both right and left so that you have enough cable and nothing is stretched too far. Install the push handlebar switch per the pictures & plug it in. Test the switch to see if it heats the grips. Install cable ties on the new grip wires where needed for support and neatness. If it works start to reassemble covers and fairings.
    The above is from a tinkerer who likes to do things for himself and is grateful to all the members that share their advice, pictures and knowledge on any subject.
    Current: "Scarlett", 2017 Can Am F3-T, SE6, Intense Red Pearl.
    BRP heated grips, DIY brake light strip and turn signal strips, Chrome/LED brake light tag frame, SpyderPops bumpskid, Baja Ron swaybar and billet links, Lamonster Third Peg, BRP Adjustable Passenger Backrest, SpyderPops Missing Belt Guard, ShowChrome oversize brake pedal, TricLED foglights.


    Previous: "Synthia", 2014 Can Am Spyder RT, SM6, Pearl White.

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