New F3 Owner waiting for ISCI handbrake

[Mike Ard]

Hello all,

New to this site but just traded my 5 year old 2010 RS for the 2015 F3. The bad news is ISCI is still a few weeks away from having the handbrake kit available for the new ride. I can't use the foot brake as my right let is artificial.

I spent a lot of cash getting the RS comfy to ride with handlebars etc... so it is nice to see the u-fit system that BRP developed for the F3. Kind of wish they offered the handbrake so I could be riding now.

[BeRight]

Sharp color combo - enjoy forum and ride. Hope you get your handbrake soon!!!

[ptbperegrine]

Well, that answered my question, I was wondering if I'd be able to transfer my ISCII handbrake to the F3...
Damn!

[Chupaca]

Modifications should be minor but testing usually takes time. Just keep after them, you need it others just want it... congrats on the new ryde.. hope your out there soon....

[retired1]

Hello all,

New to this site but just traded my 5 year old 2010 RS for the 2015 F3. The bad news is ISCI is still a few weeks away from having the handbrake kit available for the new ride. I can't use the foot brake as my right let is artificial.

I spent a lot of cash getting the RS comfy to ride with handlebars etc... so it is nice to see the u-fit system that BRP developed for the F3. Kind of wish they offered the handbrake so I could be riding now.

Before ISCI developed their brake system, some owners had installed a brake lever with a cable down to the foot pedal. Using the search option on this site you might be able to find the posts on this subject. They would have been from '08 or '09.

[BikerDoc]

Sorry to hear of your delay, but I am confident that once you are able to ride the F3, that you will find the wait worthwhile. Ryde Safe

[Mike Ard]

Thanks for the good wishes. I originlly had a foot brake rigged up on the left side for the RS but I didn't really like it. The ISCI brake was a much better option for me and has always worked flawlessly.

My last ride out to Caldwell to trade the RS in was a good ride and my RS sold while I waited for my ride back to Boise. The guy that bought my old Spyder traded his newer RSS for mine. Over the last five years I had done so much to make it comfortable and handle well I had forgotten a lot of what I did till I started going over everything with the new owner. The last thing I did for the RS was the laser allingment so I hope the folks get back up this way so I can get it done on the F3.

I havent actually ridden the new F3 so I am counting on all the reports I have read. I did sit on mine and got the handle bars and running boards etc... ordered based on the U-fit system. I was very impressed how comfortable the F3 was compared to how my RS felt out of the box. I like how easy it is going to be to check the oil and a lot of little things that have been improved on the new mode, plus I am really excited about the new motor.


Thanks again

Mike

[ARtraveler]

Hang in there. on the new F3. Aftermarket stuff takes time, but maybe bugging ISCI (in a nice way) will help with quicker delivery.

[Midian]

Hello all,

The bad news is ISCI is still a few weeks away from having the handbrake kit available for the new ride. I can't use the foot brake as my right let is artificial.

Did they give you an estimated time frame for the hand brake being completed? I was looking at the RT, then the ST and now I have my heart set on the F3. I sat on one and the seating comfort and the leg position sold me. I have MS and with the floorboards I have pretty good use of my right foot for braking. But I would feel better with a hand brake option.

[Mike Ard]

I talked with someone at ISCI today and was told that their prototype had some problems so looks like another 4 to 6 weeks out.........Not what I wanted to hear for sure considering I have a paid for F3 along with a bunch of extras sitting at my dealer's shop waiting for the hand brake. I will talk with them again in a couple of weeks and keep my fingers crossed............

My wife would have a fit if she knew I bought the muffler delete, BajaRon sway bar and the uprated shocks in the last week alone.

Makes me wonder how folks plunked down hundreds of thousands or in some cases millons for exotic sports cars knowing they are sometimes years away from getting them. I'm a mess and it has only been 5 weeks so far.

[Jaymac]

I also just got my F-3S april 10. I'm a T-10 Paraplegic no feeling or contrl below the navel. I was told it would be 3 weeks to a month before ISCI had their brakes ready. $1395 for kit and $500 installation. I installed a right hand cable brake system and emergency hand rod brake lever to foot brake in case I had cable issues. Works great and I now have 650 miles on my Spyder. I also made and installed a wheelchair rake on back for a ridged frames wheelchair. I have pictures but not sure how to post.

[Mike Ard]

Thank you for posting a great photo of what you did for a hand brake! I am going to check and see if I cn get that replacated so I can get my F3 on the road. One question I had is how much effort is needed to get good braking with the hand brake?

[Jaymac]

Thank you for posting a great photo of what you did for a hand brake! I am going to check and see if I cn get that replacated so I can get my F3 on the road. One question I had is how much effort is needed to get good braking with the hand brake?

Hi Mike If you have enough grip strength in your hands to hang onto the Spyder u should have enough power to effectively work hand brakes. These brakes really do not take a lot of force.I do have to pump my brakes twice to get max breaking because I believe I have a small air bubble in the system but I have taken it in twice to dealer and they keep telling me it my set up and cable stretch causeing it to pump up. They also said I only but out half the power with my hand brake as the foot brake but I can activate the ABS system and stop quick with a punp of the brakes. If u know someone with a wire feed welder and a torch set up and drill getting metal from Home depot and a Susuki 650 perch and cable set up all my systems were made for less than $200. I also made footplates to help hold my feet in. This is a picture of the secondary braking system and foot rests. All my mods have not altered any system so 3 year warranty is still valid. Foot rest bolts under existing peg rubbers.

[Mike Ard]

Thanks for all the photo's. I do have good hand strength so that should not be a problem. Also we have an adaptive company here in Boise that does van conversions etc... so could get them to help me out. I was thinking that I could lessen the effort by moving the cable attachment point up farther towards the pedel but wondered if you would still have enough pull on the lever to activate the brake.

[Jaymac]

Mike on the cable attachment. I had the same thoughts but lowered 3 times where I attached the cable to gain more travel. There is a cut out hole on the petal just above the foot rest. I used an 8mm bolt and 2 fender washers to attach the Suzuki handle I cut off so u have a positive attaching point for the round nob on the end of the cable. With just one bolt threw the cut off handle a hole needs to be drilled into the brake pedal and a wrist pin installed to keep the handle from rotating. A 7/8 inch perch and handle works on the handle bar if the collar is removed and a hole drilled straight thru and the outer handle bar and electronics can be attached with a bolt and nut. You will also have to shave a little off the handles switches houseing to gain a little more brakeing. It's plastic so files easily. There is probably a better cables than the Suzuki 650, 2 inches longer would be nice but was all I could find at the time. The main brake bracket clamping to the frame was 12 inches by 1 1/2" by 1/8 inch hot rolled steel with inner tube to dampen vibration and a brace to the foot rest bolt. The adjuster was made with a nut welded to a bolt head and then a cut into the nut to install the cable. The emergency brake was a small plate drilled and threaded with a 1/2 inch solid rod welded to it replacing the brake pad. A car gear shift not installed on top.

[Jaymac]

Mike I also installed a spring to help make sure I had positive brake return and no drag on brakes.

[ptbperegrine]

I also made and installed a wheelchair rake on back for a ridged frames wheelchair.

Thanks Jaymac, that looks great! Would you mind taking some pics of your wheelchair rack plus any comments on issues setting it up?

Many thanks!

[Jaymac]

Hi Ptbperegrine The main bars bolted to the passenger seat bolts are 1 1/4 x1/4 hot rolled steel. The bolts holding them on I had to pick up 4 - 8mmx 35 or 40mm it comes with 30mm bolts. I put the bars on the out side of the existing fat washers then one or 2 rubber washers for vibration dampening. I made the bars long so chair would not interfere with caring a passenger. This does present a problem lifting the chair into the rack when u are sitting on the seat. I get the job done but am still slow loading unloading much easier. I used 1/2 inch round hot rolled steel for the racks, they are 19L by 4 wide you may want to go 5 inch.. I tried to use bungy cords and rope to hold chair but still had problems even with the brakes on in the chair. The tie down system I'm using now is I welded a washer onto a bolt drilled into the bar right behind the seat. I used 3/16 gas welding rod and attached it to the washers with just bending the rods so they don't fall off. I just had then lose at first until I dropped one and had to wait for someone to come along and retrieve it for me. Bend the other end to fit your type of chair. Mounting I lock my brakes, I have a velcro strap around the passenger bar and between my seats I use as a seat belt. Attach my legs with 2 velcro straps around the 2 frame bars. I then lift the chair into the tire racks and lean it back to me to attach my to hold down rods then wiggle the chair to get the tire to slip around tightening the attaching rods. Thats all I use to tie it down. The weight of the front of the chair keeps the rods tight. Once in place it is very secure. I reach back every once in a while to check but it stays really secure.

[Omcge]

Thank you for posting a great photo of what you did for a hand brake! I am going to check and see if I cn get that replacated so I can get my F3 on the road. One question I had is how much effort is needed to get good braking with the hand brake?

If you need better braking than you can get with the hand brake alone add the sintered brake pads from Baha Ron.
They make a lot of difference. The first time I grabbed mine hard I thought that I was going over the handle bars.

ISCI gives a discount to the Handicapped.

[Jaymac]

Thanks Omcge for the tip on the brake pads. On the F-3 it is hard to get enough braking without a double brake pumping and that is one reason I installed the emergency brake handle. I will order the pads to have on hand and install when I can. Brakeing is critical for us as we have to strap into the bike for balance so anything we can do for safety is well worth the price. One accident prevented more that pays for the pads.

[Omcge]

Thanks Omcge for the tip on the brake pads. On the F-3 it is hard to get enough braking without a double brake pumping and that is one reason I installed the emergency brake handle. I will order the pads to have on hand and install when I can. Brakeing is critical for us as we have to strap into the bike for balance so anything we can do for safety is well worth the price. One accident prevented more that pays for the pads.

Yea I had a couple of close calls, just couldn't stop quick enough.
In a real emergency you may not have time to double pump.

[Jaymac]

Hi All I just ordered the new brake pads from BajaRons for the F-3S. I will let you know when I get them in and installed. Even a small gain in braking on a hand cable system will be well worth it for the $104.00 cost. May save having to double pump the brakes. Thanks again Omcge for the tip on the pads.

[ptbperegrine]

Hi Ptbperegrine The main bars bolted to the passenger seat bolts are 1 1/4 x1/4 hot rolled steel. The bolts holding them on I had to pick up 4 - 8mmx 35 or 40mm it comes with 30mm bolts. I put the bars on the out side of the existing fat washers then one or 2 rubber washers for vibration dampening. I made the bars long so chair would not interfere with caring a passenger. This does present a problem lifting the chair into the rack when u are sitting on the seat. I get the job done but am still slow loading unloading much easier. I used 1/2 inch round hot rolled steel for the racks, they are 19L by 4 wide you may want to go 5 inch.. I tried to use bungy cords and rope to hold chair but still had problems even with the brakes on in the chair. The tie down system I'm using now is I welded a washer onto a bolt drilled into the bar right behind the seat. I used 3/16 gas welding rod and attached it to the washers with just bending the rods so they don't fall off. I just had then lose at first until I dropped one and had to wait for someone to come along and retrieve it for me. Bend the other end to fit your type of chair. Mounting I lock my brakes, I have a velcro strap around the passenger bar and between my seats I use as a seat belt. Attach my legs with 2 velcro straps around the 2 frame bars. I then lift the chair into the tire racks and lean it back to me to attach my to hold down rods then wiggle the chair to get the tire to slip around tightening the attaching rods. Thats all I use to tie it down. The weight of the front of the chair keeps the rods tight. Once in place it is very secure. I reach back every once in a while to check but it stays really secure.

Jaymac you are AWESOME! Thank you!

With the chair extended out the back, do you have any concerns about metal fatigue over time?

[Jaymac]

I don't think there is any problem for a couple reasons. The chair stays really tight in the rack. The 1 1/4 by 1/4 welded to the 1/2 inch bar is pretty stout for a 25 pound chair. There is no give and it is shock mounted with the rubber washers. The chair and rack move smoothly up and down with the rear of the bike. Also if I ever get a crack any where the metal is easily taken off and welded but really don't see any problems happening.

[Mike Ard]

Well just got off the phone with ISCI and it appears that they are no closer to producing the hand brake kit for the F3 than they were three months ago. My F3 is scheduled to be put together on the 18th with the short reach handle bars, rider floor boards, wind shield, up rated fox shocks, baja ron bar, and muffler delete pipe so looks like I will be going to a local company to move the foot brake to the left side.