2011 rt ,check engine light came on,pulled over and quit.

[Roadranger]

2011 rt engine light came on,pulled over and shut down.checked oil and ok. Try to start,push mode button and wont change screen or start. HELP

[Peter Aawen]

I'm just guessing here, but are you anywhere that you can check the battery?

That 'push mode button and wont change screen or start' bit suggests that for whatever reason, you've lost enough elec power to run your Spyder!! I'd guess that a multi-meter &/or load tester on the battery will show something less than 12 volts, which is not going to be enough to keep the engine running!! This could be due to a dead charging system, which in turn meant the battery is now cactus & not providing enough 'green steam' to keep the engine running, even tho there might be enough juice left to power the initial screen.....

A jump start might get it going again, but if it's as dead as I think it might be, it'll probably stop again shortly after you disconnect the cables. A new battery might get you going & keep it going long enough to get home, but if it is your charge system that's died, your Spyder will just chew thru batteries until the charge system is fixed....

There again, I might be waaayyy off track & just leading you out there too!

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I wonder if the magneto has a problem and isn't keeping the battery charged? How old is the battery. Maybe it's shot. Not sure but I think dropping voltage while riding could cause a check engine fault.

[Roadranger]

Battery is only 6 months old. Rode all day and was on way home.Just left stoplight and wouldn't shift,check engine light came on and pulled over ,stopped engine and checked oil,full,went to restart and mode button would not change screen to start.fortunetly we were only 25 miles from home,so left wife with bike and rode home to get truck and trailer to retrieve.will check out battery tomorrow and codes and will post results. Thanks for giving me a starting point. If not charging,wouldn't i get idiot light telling me such?

[Warlock]

Battery is only 6 months old. Rode all day and was on way home.Just left stoplight and wouldn't shift,check engine light came on and pulled over ,stopped engine and checked oil,full,went to restart and mode button would not change screen to start.fortunetly we were only 25 miles from home,so left wife with bike and rode home to get truck and trailer to retrieve.will check out battery tomorrow and codes and will post results. Thanks for giving me a starting point. If not charging,wouldn't i get idiot light telling me such?

Check and make sure all your relays are plugged in good. Also check your shift linkage if it is a SE model. These has been known to come loose on the shaft.
David

[Chupaca]

It would be helpful to know the kind of battery you had install if not original. If the charging system is good you should be able to jump start and Ryde till you cut the engine. Codes will tell you a lot cause the check engine light comes on for everything on these machines. Checking the connections, fuses, and relays is a good step after testing/charging the battery. Hope it's simple...

[SpyderAnn01]

I wonder if the magneto has a problem and isn't keeping the battery charged? How old is the battery. Maybe it's shot. Not sure but I think dropping voltage while riding could cause a check engine fault.

I think you’re right, I had the magneto go on my 10, seemed like it was a bad battery so we replaced it but that wasn’t the problem. I don’t temember getting the check engine light though.

[BoilerAnimal]

The magneto went bad on my Spyder last year and it seemed like I got just about every warning light to come on before it just quit. I put a new battery in and that lasted about 50 miles before deja vu all over again. Hopefully, it's not your magneto.

[youngers]

i see you are from Burleson texas ! { been all over that area long ago } o.k. back too the problem ---- I would guess you have the 2011 r-t S-E 5 paddle gear switch ? ( if so lets try this ----> first before you do all the above stuff ( 1 ) take the key out of the ignition , put it about 5 feet away while you are gathering all the stuff to do the " check battery " notes , now this might take about 10 minutes to get all your thinks laid out . ( 2 ) now after this time out for the key -- put it back in the start ignition switch , now get back on the cycle and push that foot brake down , like you have to hard stop , and try to start the cycle : turn key , mode switch , start switch : let us know if this did the trick of starting ! ( the reason I mention the foot brake , is some times folks tend to get excited , when stranded on the side of the road , and forget the foot brake while starting the cycle . it is aggravating to say the least as the day for riding is beautiful and then , ---bam--- problems ... { but if the cycle still is not responding continue on with the battery section of the above replies --- you can check the voltage at the jump points under the seat , refer to the owner operator book " stranded with out a cause " for the jump point locations ...

[Roadranger]

Tried jump starting this morning but no luck. All terminals tight.same problem,mode button wont change screen.will leave on charger for a couple of hours and try again. Any other suggestions appreciated. Thanks

[Roadranger]

Since screen wont change from mode ,i cant start bike to check charging system or able to pull codes. Screen just stays on mode. When it wouldn't shift i remembered low oil would cause this. This is why we shut it down and checked oil and it was full. Went to restart and this problem occurred. I didn't think far enough ahead to pull codes before we shut her down. And yes it is a SE5

[Bob Denman]

f you're able to get it to the point where you can pull codes: grab them as quickly as possible!
I hope the P1614 doesn't show up on he screen...

[BigGuy66]

f you're able to get it to the point where you can pull codes: grab them as quickly as possible!
I hope the P1614 doesn't show up on he screen...

...was what showed on my 2010 RT SM5. Engine light kept coming on. Wouldn't start then it would. Turned out to be the throttle body and throttle position sensor. BRP issued a bulletin on this known issue but mine was too old to be covered. $1200 later I was back on the road and has been ok since. I agree - I hope the P1614 doesn't show up!!

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Tried jump starting this morning but no luck. All terminals tight.same problem,mode button wont change screen.will leave on charger for a couple of hours and try again. Any other suggestions appreciated. Thanks

Since screen wont change from mode ,i cant start bike to check charging system or able to pull codes. Screen just stays on mode. When it wouldn't shift i remembered low oil would cause this. This is why we shut it down and checked oil and it was full. Went to restart and this problem occurred. I didn't think far enough ahead to pull codes before we shut her down. And yes it is a SE5

The Mode button not working is the prime issue here. Can’t get any further until that’s resolved.

Right now while it's on the charger, if you have 12 - 13 volts or more, and the cluster display booted up normally, failure of the Mode button to work probably isn't battery or charging system related - assuming that you've already checked all fuses and relays. Your front fender lights should light up as soon as you turn on the key. How do they look?

And as I recall, your first problem was a failure to shift. Both of these issues are related to the Left Hand Switch assembly. Common denominator. Both of those switches communicate with the ECM via the CAN bus. So, after a couple more hours of charging, if the Mode button still isn't functional, I'd be looking for some wire harness issue from the switch assembly. Pull the panels, check for critter damage, etc. I'm going to keep looking.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Connect your charger directly to the battery and disconnect one the battery cables. Reconnect after the battery is charged. A cold reboot from zero power may clear out gremlins in the computers. You know, like a Windows computer!

[Roadranger]

Thanks Snowbelt Spyder,yes fender lights come on immediately. We bought this bike used and requested a VIN check by dealer and printout before we bought. Throttle body and rear brake spring were both listed as being replace by warranty as we knew of these issues. We also have 2012 RT-S SE5 we got new and wife wanted her own bike again and this is why we got this one.Its been a great bike and this is first issue for us with 35000 miles on it now. Will double check fuses and relays again but your suggestion of left side handle bar controls make sense and will try some WD40 on mode switch to see if bad connection. Had parking brake switch refuse to release and tried this and solved problem,so maybe mode switch got moisture in there. Hoping something simple

[Roadranger]

Just went out and tried it again and fender lights did not come on,what could that mean ,

[billybovine]

Check the fuses. The fender and all the other running lights should come on when you turn on the key. When the fuse blew while riding. That would have caused the other warnings.

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Just went out and tried it again and fender lights did not come on,what could that mean ,

You should get fender lights, tail lights and plate light just by turning on the key. If not, check fuse F1. Don't just look at it, take it out and check it.

Edit: Just noticed your posting that they came on the first time but not a second time. It's a straight shot from the two fuses, through the ignition switch to the lights. As long as you have good battery voltage, it can only be the fuses or the switch.

[billybovine]

You should get fender lights, tail lights and plate light just by turning on the key. If not, check fuse F1. Don't just look at it, take it out and check it.

Just looked at the wiring diagram. I would agree to check fuse F1. Also if that is not it. Check the 40 amp fuse under the seat. position 4.

[Roadranger]

Billybovine and everyone else,THANK YOU ALL. I cant believe it was a fuse F1 . Owners manual says if SE5 wont shift take it to dealer ,says nothing about fuses. Had to pull to check,very small break,no black burnout to see from looking from above with flashlight. I just cant believe it was that simple. You guys are great,looked at fuses on road and nothing looked wrong. I cant believe BRP wouldn't detail this in manual. Pulled up codes and came up clear.happy danceThanks again,Bob and Jan

[Bob Denman]

Glad to hear that you got it back up on all three wheels!

[billybovine]

I hate to rain on your parade, but. Since the fuse blew while driving down the road during normal use. It may happen again. Carry some extra 15 amp fuses with you. Also when you get a chance give the Spyder a good look over for any damaged wires. Especially anything to do with the running lights. (Front fender lights, rear tail lights or licence plate light.) Also any addon accessories to the running lights.

[Roadranger]

Only thing we've done is tri-axis bars and led lights in back between trunk and license plate fender put on by Spyderpops at spyderfest 2 years ago. I'm hoping just 7 year old fuse was getting old and just maybe a little power surge from bike upon take off from interchange. Will pick up more fuses just in case and will call dealer to inquire if theyv'e seen this before. Again thanks evryone

[Cruzr Joe]

This is a great place for info from some very knowledgeable folks who will try to help in any way.

Cruzr Joe