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  1. #51
    Very Active Member pegasus1300's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by opiewhan View Post
    Will your dealer put on a Yokohama?? Mine wont..Must be a quote un-qoute "motorcycle" tire or they could face a lawsuit..So im stuck right now deciding weather to just put on Kenda's or find a way to get a Yokohama or Kumho on my bike..
    Any tire shop can do it. I live in Rural Utah no major tire companies around me.I took my wheel to the local guys asked can you put this tire on this rim,He said"I have four different tire machines I can mount anything on anything,and he did 10 min job including a dyna bead balance $25 plus $3.00 tire disposal fee, included balance. 5K miles so far no wear showing, no problems.

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  2. #52
    Very Active Member AY4B's Avatar
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    I had ordered the Kuhmo early this morning and after seeing this thread wished I'd got a Yokohama. I called discount tire and they were going to change it to the Yoko and realized it was for a spyder and they canceled the order. I just went to Amazon and ordered the Yoko and spent less $$. Discount makes you think you are getting it for less but they add a 10.00+ charge for a certificate for refund or replacement. So now Im getting the Yoko for only 6 dollars more than the Kuhmo.
    The moral of the story is dont ever say you are putting a car tire on a Spyder.
    Last edited by AY4B; 02-29-2016 at 04:19 PM.
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  3. #53
    Very Active Member jtoro1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AY4B View Post
    I had ordered the Kuhmo early this morning and after seeing this thread wished I'd got a Yokohama. I called discount tire and they were going to change it to the Yoko and realized it was for a spyder and they canceled the order. I just went to Amazon and ordered the Yoko and spent less $$. Discount makes you think you are getting it for less but they add a 10.00+ charge for a certificate for refund or replacement. So now Im getting the Yoko for only 6 dollars more than the Kuhmo.
    The moral of the story is dont ever say you are putting a car tire on a Spyder.
    OR BS THEM TELL THEM IT FOR A CAR BUT I THINK YOU GOT THE BEST TIRE ,KUMHOS HYDROPLANE A HAD 2

  4. #54
    Very Active Member AY4B's Avatar
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    Thanks, I also found a dealer that will put it on. BTW, Louis Powersports just lost any of my business,
    Last edited by AY4B; 02-29-2016 at 05:26 PM.
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  5. #55
    Pragmatic Member Pampurrs's Avatar
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    I purchased my General Altimax RT43 on Amazon, no questions asked. Received the tire on Friday and mounting it tomorrow.

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  6. #56
    Very Active Member Sarge707's Avatar
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    http://www.townfairtire.com/tfttires...fdyshwod2kuh7q

    With 14,500 on the RT will need a new rear in about 1,000 miles- Do Yo think Town Fair Tire (Has the Tire above) would mount it for you if you brought in the wheel?
    Anyone use them?

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  7. #57
    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AY4B View Post
    I had ordered the Kuhmo early this morning and after seeing this thread wished I'd got a Yokohama. I called discount tire and they were going to change it to the Yoko and realized it was for a spyder and they canceled the order. I just went to Amazon and ordered the Yoko and spent less $$. Discount makes you think you are getting it for less but they add a 10.00+ charge for a certificate for refund or replacement. So now Im getting the Yoko for only 6 dollars more than the Kuhmo.
    The moral of the story is dont ever say you are putting a car tire on a Spyder.
    You dodged a bullet there. I know it's hard to not get caught up in the chant from Kuhmo cult. I had a Kuhmo and trashed it long before it was worn out. The only thing it seemed to stick to was black fresh asphalt. Grey pavement I had to little careful with the throttle. Wet pavement I had to treat like driving on ice. Hydroplaned in even a tiny amount of standing water. The Yokohama S drive is better. Still open to finding something better yet.

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  8. #58
    Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie Peter Aawen's Avatar
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    A lot of that ^^ sort of problem can be traced back to running the wrong tire pressures for the load the tires are carrying & the way they are being used, as well as your expectations. ANY tire run at pressures that are too high for the load it's carrying/the way it's being used will hydro-plane in some conditions &/or have poor traction on any/all surfaces, and many drivers/riders just don't realise how critical the difference of as little as just 1psi in their tires might be to the traction & ride/handling characteristics of said tire. So unless you've seriously tried adjusting your tire pressures to suit your load/riding style & provide the optimal balance of traction & ride/handling from that tire, blaming the tire for a lack of traction or otherwise is not a realistic response....

    Still, the compound (or compounds - some tire manufacturers use two or more compounds across the tread face of the tire) that are used in the tread of the tire can have a big impact on how well a particular tire grips & behaves, altho if you bother, you as the operator can manage that behaviour to a large degree by adjusting your tire pressure to produce various desireable results or to reduce the un-desireable results. Kumho's (in general, altho there are specific exceptions in their line-up) tend to use more of a 'longer lasting' compound than some other brands, (including Yokohama, which in general are more of a softer compound using performance brand) which means that to provide the same degree of traction & to avoid hydro-planing, it is very likely you'll need to run lower pressures in a Kumho so that the tire compound will heat up more & become 'stickier' than you would in the same sized/tread type Yokohama. But you can achieve very much the same traction by adjusting your pressures suitably, altho it will likely be at some cost in terms of the potential tire life (probably countered by the longer life harder compound tho) - broadly speaking, the stickier you make your tires the quicker they will wear, altho lighter construction &/or softer compound tires will generally flex more & get hot quicker & thereby wear quicker than heavier construction/harder compound tires....

    With a little effort, you can manage your tire pressures to get the best balance of performance, ride, handling, & traction from whatever tires you run if you want to, & maybe even learn how to pick a brand/construction of tire that best suits what you want from your tires; all it takes is learning how to vary your tire pressures to do so & then making the effort. OR you can just treat your tires as black round things that keep the metal bits off the road & just set & forget your tire pressures, blaming the tire itself for your lack of effort & thereby significantly effecting things like potential tire life, traction, ride, handling, etc & possibly even your riding enjoyment. Many people who do the latter even change the brands/tread patterns of their tires often until they stumble (generally by pure fluke) across one that works sorta OK for them despite their lack of involvement/input into such a critical part of their ride enjoyment & safety....

    Your choice

  9. #59
    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Aawen View Post
    A lot of that ^^ sort of problem can be traced back to running the wrong tire pressures for the load the tires are carrying & the way they are being used, as well as your expectations. ANY tire run at pressures that are too high for the load it's carrying/the way it's being used will hydro-plane in some conditions &/or have poor traction on any/all surfaces, and many drivers/riders just don't realise how critical the difference of as little as just 1psi in their tires might be to the traction & ride/handling characteristics of said tire. So unless you've seriously tried adjusting your tire pressures to suit your load/riding style & provide the optimal balance of traction & ride/handling from that tire, blaming the tire for a lack of traction or otherwise is not a realistic response....

    Still, the compound (or compounds - some tire manufacturers use two or more compounds across the tread face of the tire) that are used in the tread of the tire can have a big impact on how well a particular tire grips & behaves, altho if you bother, you as the operator can manage that behaviour to a large degree by adjusting your tire pressure to produce various desireable results or to reduce the un-desireable results. Kumho's (in general, altho there are specific exceptions in their line-up) tend to use more of a 'longer lasting' compound than some other brands, (including Yokohama, which in general are more of a softer compound using performance brand) which means that to provide the same degree of traction & to avoid hydro-planing, it is very likely you'll need to run lower pressures in a Kumho so that the tire compound will heat up more & become 'stickier' than you would in the same sized/tread type Yokohama. But you can achieve very much the same traction by adjusting your pressures suitably, altho it will likely be at some cost in terms of the potential tire life (probably countered by the longer life harder compound tho) - broadly speaking, the stickier you make your tires the quicker they will wear, altho lighter construction &/or softer compound tires will generally flex more & get hot quicker & thereby wear quicker than heavier construction/harder compound tires....

    With a little effort, you can manage your tire pressures to get the best balance of performance, ride, handling, & traction from whatever tires you run if you want to, & maybe even learn how to pick a brand/construction of tire that best suits what you want from your tires; all it takes is learning how to vary your tire pressures to do so & then making the effort. OR you can just treat your tires as black round things that keep the metal bits off the road & just set & forget your tire pressures, blaming the tire itself for your lack of effort & thereby significantly effecting things like potential tire life, traction, ride, handling, etc & possibly even your riding enjoyment. Many people who do the latter even change the brands/tread patterns of their tires often until they stumble (generally by pure fluke) across one that works sorta OK for them despite their lack of involvement/input into such a critical part of their ride enjoyment & safety....

    Your choice
    I do understand the relationship between tire pressure and traction. I gave up on the kuhmo at 20 psi. At that pressure I disliked the feel in the corners. Which was surprise to me because of the stiffer construction. When the only requirement is to last longer and all the bad characteristics are ignored, kumho is a great tire.

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  10. #60
    Very Active Member JKMSPYDER's Avatar
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    Default KUMHO

    I have run 28 psi in a rear Kumho tire with no traction or hydroplane problems.
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  11. #61
    Very Active Member jcthorne's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by billybovine View Post
    You dodged a bullet there. I know it's hard to not get caught up in the chant from Kuhmo cult. I had a Kuhmo and trashed it long before it was worn out. The only thing it seemed to stick to was black fresh asphalt. Grey pavement I had to little careful with the throttle. Wet pavement I had to treat like driving on ice. Hydroplaned in even a tiny amount of standing water. The Yokohama S drive is better. Still open to finding something better yet.
    The Toyo R888 is better for traction. MUCH better but it will not last much more than about 8k even on a car.

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  12. #62
    Very Active Member jcthorne's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JKMSPYDER View Post
    I have run 28 psi in a rear Kumho tire with no traction or hydroplane problems.

    Well if your Kuhmo was not having traction problems, you were not using enough throttle. They are pretty poor on an RT, downright awful on an F3 which is pretty traction limited with the soft stock Kenda.

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  13. #63
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    Default To balance or not to balance

    I have an F3 and
    I'm going to order this tire as well. Does it need the weights removed and dyna beads added or just remove the weights and add the beads later if needed. I Was quoted 139 for arachnid and 130 for installation at a dealer and that's just not going to happen!

  14. #64
    Very Active Member jcthorne's Avatar
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    We recommend not using the dyna beads. Balance the tire/wheel before putting it on the bike.

    The centramatic balancers work well too as long as the tire balance is close. Our experience has shown that with the Yoko tire, if you line up the yellow dot with the valve stem, they balance with VERY little to no weights and well within the capabilities of the centramatics. This is NOT true of the Kendas.

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  15. #65
    Very Active Member Sarge707's Avatar
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    Well I have had the Kumho on my RT for 1,000 miles now and I like it . I accelerate Hard (Many times Hitting 60 in 2nd gear) But I Do Not Burn rubber for No reason. Shows No real wear yet and at 28 PSI it s still quite warm to the touch when I stop. It seemed to balance very well when the tire shop mounted it with the red dot at the valve stem. I Only ride on Dry -Rain Free- Days.

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  16. #66
    Very Active Member pegasus1300's Avatar
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    "We recommend not using the dyna beads."

    Why is that JC? My tire shop was unable to balance the my wheel with their machines (I don't know what they have) so I suggested Dyna Beads and so far I think they have worked well. I am running a MasterCraft tire on the rear. It is now going into it's Third summer
    What did I miss?

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  17. #67
    Very Active Member BoilerAnimal's Avatar
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    No Tupperware removal necessary. Your brake will be different because it's a Brembo and is not bolted in place but has a nub that locates the front of the assembly and the axle does the rest, IIRC. Super easy! Just take your time and use your phone to take pictures for reference when reassembly, if you want.
    Last edited by BoilerAnimal; 09-02-2017 at 04:45 PM. Reason: Grammar
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  18. #68
    Very Active Member jcthorne's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pegasus1300 View Post
    "We recommend not using the dyna beads."

    Why is that JC? My tire shop was unable to balance the my wheel with their machines (I don't know what they have) so I suggested Dyna Beads and so far I think they have worked well. I am running a MasterCraft tire on the rear. It is now going into it's Third summer
    What did I miss?
    We have had several tires destroyed by clumping dyna beads. Also they do not balance until you are up at highway speed and personally I hate the wobble getting there. Its much better to balance the tire/wheel properly before installing. It only takes a few minutes to do the job right. Yes, a motorcycle wheel takes different equipment or adaptors to balance than a car wheel.

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  19. #69
    Very Active Member jcthorne's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by UtahPete View Post
    Thanks. I also have a hitch; should I plan on removing that first?

    Also, what's the best location for the jack - under the frame (where?) or the swing-arm (where?) or both?
    Hitch will have to come off first.

    Place the jack under the rear most portion of the frame. Do not jack under the shock mounting bolt.

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  20. #70
    Very Active Member BoilerAnimal's Avatar
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    The axle nut on my 2013 is a 36 mm. Can't speak about the 2014 or newer models.
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  21. #71
    Very Active Member Peteoz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pegasus1300 View Post
    "We recommend not using the dyna beads."

    Why is that JC? My tire shop was unable to balance the my wheel with their machines (I don't know what they have) so I suggested Dyna Beads and so far I think they have worked well. I am running a MasterCraft tire on the rear. It is now going into it's Third summer
    What did I miss?
    Paul,
    ........not directly related to the Dyna beads, but re the tyre shop not being able to balance.......when I ordered my front and rear tyres from my tyre shop, they suggested I book in at the bike shop on the way home as they could easily do the balance on their equipment. Sure it cost a few bucks, but it was a solution if you want your tyres balanced the normal way and the tyre shop doesn't have the right equipment.

    p.s. I didn't do that as the tyre shop said that with the Kuhmos I was buying, they would be very well balanced as long as they were aligned to the valve......plus, I had just ordered Lamont's Balancers.

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  22. #72
    Very Active Member jcthorne's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by UtahPete View Post
    What is the 36mm wrench needed for? The axle bolt and nut on mine is only 19mm. Must be some other step unrelated to removing the axle bolt?
    The 19mm one is the trailer hitch bolt that goes through the hollow axle. You will have a 36mm behind the hitch when you get it off.

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  23. #73
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    Bob, this is for a 2011 and I understand there have been several changes to the rear wheel, brakes, etc since then that might affect this process; is that right?

    I'm about to remove the rear wheel on my 2014RT. Thanks.
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  24. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by jcthorne View Post
    2014 rear brakes, wheel and axle are same as 2013.
    So, on my 2014 the procedure s/b exactly as shown?
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  25. #75
    Very Active Member pegasus1300's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jcthorne View Post
    We have had several tires destroyed by clumping dyna beads. Also they do not balance until you are up at highway speed and personally I hate the wobble getting there. Its much better to balance the tire/wheel properly before installing. It only takes a few minutes to do the job right. Yes, a motorcycle wheel takes different equipment or adaptors to balance than a car wheel.
    No bike shop here I would trust to put air in a tire let alone balance it. Dyna beads are working fine, I have also used them in my previous 2wheelers with no incident. I don't feel any wobble getting up to speed. Thanks for the warning tho. I do know the shop was very careful to mount my tire with the proper orientation to the valve stem.

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