Replacing the rear tire on your Spyder - Video

[finless]

OK folks, I finally put on my Yokohama "S" Drive tire.
Shot a video on how to do it or at least how I did it.

Hope it helps someone.

Bob

[cognaccruiser]

Thank you very much for doing this video.

Gary

[Chupaca]

a very nice video that will help a lot of folks venturing into doing there own...thanks for that and all your videos..

[mstella101]

Bob,kudos to you and all you other Spyderlovers with the big brass b@%&$ that have the knowledge and hutzpah to tackle a job like that- I especially like it when you said "Its really pretty easy to do this". Thank you for posting such an in depth video. It helps all of us decide if we want to tackle a job like this!- Keep 'em coming

[jcthorne]

Video is much appreciated. Calling to order 2 Yokohama S-Drive tires now.

[JerryB]

Hi Bob,

Re: Shot a video on how to do it or at least how I did it.

This may be a rather stupid question, but will that procedure work on all models?

And again, Thanks muchly for all of your videos,

Jerry Baumchen

[Purple Guy]

Once again, a big Bob on another excellent video!

[cyclelover63]

Awesome and full of little tips....Still going to have my dealer do it!!....lol

[wd8ajj]

Good for 2013 and earlier but 2014 + am told is diff due to new engine ect..

[vrider]

Hey Finless..... Appreciate all the videos you and others have created about the Spyder, they are a big help and fun to watch.

[jcthorne]

Good for 2013 and earlier but 2014 + am told is diff due to new engine ect..

2014 rear brakes, wheel and axle are same as 2013.

[finless]

2014 rear brakes, wheel and axle are same as 2013.

That was my understanding too but not knowing for sure I did not want to say.

JC, why two? If these go 20k or more, it might be a while before you use the 2nd one and the rubber will deteriorate just sitting.

Bob

[jcthorne]

That was my understanding too but not knowing for sure I did not want to say.

JC, why two? If these go 20k or more, it might be a while before you use the 2nd one and the rubber will deteriorate just sitting.

Bob

2 Spyders! Wifes has a few less miles than me but would need a tire before we get back from Spyderfest as well. Mine is pretty well gone at 7000 miles.

[JerryB]

Hi folks,

Well, still no answer so I thought I would give it a bump.

Hi Bob,

Re: Shot a video on how to do it or at least how I did it.

This may be a rather stupid question, but will that procedure work on all models?

And again, Thanks muchly for all of your videos,

Jerry Baumchen

[finless]

Hi folks,

Well, still no answer so I thought I would give it a bump.

Hi Bob,

Re: Shot a video on how to do it or at least how I did it.

This may be a rather stupid question, but will that procedure work on all models?

And again, Thanks muchly for all of your videos,

Jerry Baumchen

I cannot say for sure. Lamont did a video showing how to remove the tire on a RS. I watched it and it looks about the same to me.
As for 2014 and up, I cannot say for sure sorry.

Bob

[billybovine]

Great video and should be helpful to a lot of folks.

A couple comments based on my experience.

There is no need to remove the hub for a tire change at the 2 shops I have used. I guess it would depend on the equipment the tire shop has. In all cases I needed the hub in place to balance the wheel. Even if it can be balanced without the hub, more rotating mass included in the balance can only result in a better balance.

When disconnecting the shock to remove the belt. When the swing arm is left to hang all the weight is supported by the ABS sensor wire. You need to be careful not to damage the wire.

The possibility of a shim washer under the brake is only on 2013 or later models with Brembo brake. At least that is the way I understand it.

Last week someone posted some pictures on changing their tire and they did not unbolt the brake caliper. I may try that next time and see how it works out.

Thanks for your comments on the Yokohama tire. That's what I am putting on in the next couple weeks.

[billybovine]

Good for 2013 and earlier but 2014 + am told is diff due to new engine ect..

The rear wheel assembly is basically identical for all Spyders including F3's. There are some minor differences for color and some 2015's have 6 spoke wheel. But none of that is important in the removal and install procedure.

[bronzeflex42]

Thanks Finless for this video. I have been waiting for a while to see a video on the RT rear tire removal. I'm a DIY guy and really appreciate this site and the people that don't mind posting videos and tips when working on our .

[finless]

Great video and should be helpful to a lot of folks.

A couple comments based on my experience.

There is no need to remove the hub for a tire change at the 2 shops I have used. I guess it would depend on the equipment the tire shop has. In all cases I needed the hub in place to balance the wheel. Even if it can be balanced without the hub, more rotating mass included in the balance can only result in a better balance.

When disconnecting the shock to remove the belt. When the swing arm is left to hang all the weight is supported by the ABS sensor wire. You need to be careful not to damage the wire.

The possibility of a shim washer under the brake is only on 2013 or later models with Brembo brake. At least that is the way I understand it.

Last week someone posted some pictures on changing their tire and they did not unbolt the brake caliper. I may try that next time and see how it works out.

Thanks for your comments on the Yokohama tire. That's what I am putting on in the next couple weeks.

Billy, I covered many of these points in my Video. Spacer, ABS sensor, etc, etc. I guess you did not watch the entire thing

Bob

[finless]

Just a little follow up about the Yokohama S Drive tire.




Bob

[billybovine]

The diameter is almost exactly the same. That is one of the reasons I was interested in that size. The tire size that corrects the speedo, some have reported it does not fit under the fender on a GS/RS or ST.

[jcthorne]

Thanks for the feedback. Look forward to them on our bikes.

Just FYI, the actual width of the Yokohama S-Drive 205/55-15 is 8.6 inches as reported by Yokohama. Yokos usually do run on the wider side of nominal sizes on their performance tires. Actual diameter is 23.9 inches and revolutions per mile is 871 but I do not have the actual specs for the Kenda to compare to.

[cognaccruiser]

Well I guess I'm about half way there on my 2014 RTS. I have the rear wheel off and will have to wait until next week to get the tire changed. I use, when ever possible, a local independent bike shop for tires and a few other things. A great guy and his wife run it. Very honest and very competent so I like to give him any business I can. He's closed Mondays like most bike shops so will set it up Tuesday.

A few observations.
Yes I needed a small pair of vice grips to hold the back of the shock sensor arm to remove the bolt.

When removing the bolt from the bottom of the shock, it was necessary to adjust the height of the jack to make sliding the bolt out easier.

There didn't appear to be any shim on either of the bolts holding the brake assembly on. Nothing fell out. I'm a little nervous about putting the brake assembly back on only because of having to slide the brake pads over the disk. Probably just me looking for something to be anxious about.
I didn't disconnect the ABS sensor but was very careful about resting the assembly on some blocks of wood and not stressing the wire.

I took the disk off from the drum but left the drum on and hope I can get the tire changed that way. Not a big deal if I have to remove it.

Removing the belt sprocket turned out to be a lot easier than I expected based on Bob's comments. I marked the position of each of the rubber pads with numbers and will replace them in the same order. Not sure if it matters but have marked the disk so it will go back in the same position too.

The nut holding the axel was pretty tight. Had to buy a 36mm socket and had to order a 36 mm combination wrench. Nobody locally had one. But the axel slid out quite easily. One of the things I did a little differently was that I removed the painted body work behind the trunk and the black plastic fender that holds the license. Pretty easy to remove thanks to information posted by others on SL and it made it easy to just roll the wheel out once the axel was out.

Man, that yellow loc tite stuff BRP uses is pretty tough. Will put a tiny amount of blue loc tite on the bolts that had yellow. Nothing that goes any where near plastic.

One thing I'm not sure about is how much torque to use when replacing bolts like the brake disk. I believe 35 lbs/ft for the drum but I may not have to remove it. Is the rear axel nut 150 lbs/ft? My torque wrench only goes to 150. I don't know what to use for the bolts holding the brake assembly on the Spyder or the bolt holding the shock.

Almost chickened out of doing this but hated to go to the dealer and wanted to do it myself to learn. Also, my belt was going to need a slight adjustment as it had become too tight to the inside flange. It was fine earlier but now I can't even get my finger nail between the belt and the flange on the sprocket so want to be able to do those adjustments myself. I'll do it when I put everything back together. Hope it goes back together as easy as it came apart.

Thanks to Bob, Lamont and all those that post how to do things on this forum. It is very much appreciated.

Gary

[jcthorne]

Just came back here to thank finless and to say all is well, both tires changed out Friday and we went for an extended ride today. VERY happy with the Yokohama tire. Will take a while to see how it will wear but it simply cannot be any worse than the POS Kenda tires. Nice to have a name brand, Z speed rated, made in USA tire on my bike. Each of them took less than 1oz to balance. Shows good quality control in manufacture.

[finless]

Gary, sounds like your doing fine buddy....

FYI the axel is 100 ft lbs torque! There are some mistakes in other documentation about it being any higher than that!
That's what my service manual says so you know.

The brake Caliper bolts are 35 lbs. Same with holding the disk on to the hub!
Blue locktite is fine! That is what I used!

For putting the caliper back on and getting it on the disk. No worries mate! Just take your time, spread the pads, and it will slide on the same way it came off.... Trust me!

PM me if you need some help buddy and I will give you my phone number!

Bob