2010 RT stalled, restarted, stalled and now will not start

[Peacemaker7]

I know I don't post a lot on the forums. Normally I can find what I need here and fix the bike myself or at least know what to tell my mechanic what might be wrong. But I'm lost on what my 2010 RT SM5 did and is now doing.
Yesterday afternoon, the temperatures were in the 50s and we decided to go to our sons new house to help them paint. The Spyder started up, while idling, I checked the tires, filled the tires, adjusted the shocks, all was well. We only had to go 5 miles to their house, when we two blocks away, the Spyder sputtered, a bunch of idiot lights lit up and stalled. I pulled in the clutch, hit the start button and the Spyder fired right up while still rolling, no lights were lit, no orange orange error messages on the display. Made it a couple of 100 yards, it did it again, same symptoms. Started up again, and when I gave it the gas, it wouldn't go above 2k RPM and died again. This time, it wouldn't start at all. The screed went blank, with only SPYDER RT showing on the display. I removed the key, walked to end of the street, came back inserted the key, the LEDs on the front fenders lit up when I turned the key, but no display, no safety message, mode button did not work, nor the start button. Bike was in neutral. I thought the battery might have died, so I tried to jump start the Spyder. Only problem, was when I turned the key, no display, all dead, mode button wouldn't work, just in case the display was only blank, I tried to apply the parking brake but it would not engage either, so no juice no joy, spyder would not start. I checked all of the fuses in the frunk and under the seat. None blown fuses. So.... I had the bike towed home and put the battery tender on the bike to see if it was in fact the battery, it went to full charge in an hour, so not a battery problem?
A little background might help???, I had the ignition changed out two months ago, it wouldn't turn when depressed so I couldn't open the frunk nor seat to get to the fuel tank. The battery was supposedly replaced a year ago, the dealership asked me if they had replaced the battery, but ever since then I've had the ignition switch replaced, I've had to have the spyder on a tender. Two weeks is about all it took for the Spyders battery to drain to where it wouldn't start. I have not installed any electric accessories since last years sypderfest, LED flag hooked up to the brake lights. I tried the spare key this morning, just to make sure the other key didn't drop its security coding. This key didn't work either, so only thing left to do is to put this out to the Spyder community and ask for your help.
Sorry for the long post, but more details are better than just "help my bike died".

[bruiser]

Have you checked the relays? The start relay may be loose or fried. You can swap the relays. Also check the battery connections. Make sure they are tight. A battery tender will not charge a battery, it will only maintain the charge. It is possible that the battery is bad. Especially if it won't jump start. Try using a good battery charger too. Almost forgot, check the inline fuse at the start relay just in front of the battery.

[Chupaca]

I would start with the battery connections, relays and fuses (make sure they are seated in good). Next hook up with jumpers and see if it comes back to life. If all was well prior to the ignition switch that would be the next check. Backtracking can usually find the error but it does sound electrical. Weak power supply will make the indicators and panel go crazy...

[SpyderAnn01]

I think he tried to jump start with no luck.

[Marker]

On my 2010 RT SE5 . There are two small black Vacuum hoses located at the front top of the motor. The vacuum hoses get very hot because of the location of them and dry out.
I had the exact same problem that you are describing and others I ride with have had the same problem. I changed out the two vacuum hoses and that fixed the problem.
Upon closer inspection of the two hoses I found the one closest to the exhaust manifold was cracked really bad and the one that is on left side of the motor was not as bad just dried out.
Do yourself a favor spend the money on OEM hoses , it is well worth it. The cost for me was $16.00 CAN each hose and two are required.

My spyder had about 18,600 miles on it when the hoses needed changing.

I would change them out when the spyder is cool or cold because they are very tight to get at so burning your hand is highly likely. They are easy to change just remove the front left hand panels.

[bruiser]

I think he tried to jump start with no luck.

[Peacemaker7]

Thanks for the information, I've been taping, priming and painting all day. I was in the process of removing the left lower panel last night while waiting for AMA roadside assistance to come on line. I was almost there, but was foiled by the last torx screw under the back of the seat. I made sure the relays were fully seated last night. I'll check the others and the main fuse once I get the panels off. I checked my battery tender, the one I have serves as both a charger and maintainer. Update hopefully tomorrow night, or Tuesday night.
Thanks again.

[Peacemaker7]

I pulled the panels off, got to the battery all connection are tight and the in line fuse. Battery is at 12.17 volts, in line fuse is intact, I double checked the block fuses under the seat, all of these are intact. I still have no power to the ignition switch. Brake lights work, hazard lights work, but no power to the key. I haven't got to the vacuum lines on the other side of the bike yet. I noticed that some of the relays in the frunk fuse block have the same numbers but others are different.

I checked the part numbers of the relays in the BRP online search, all the relays have the same part number. I swapped the suspension relay with the pre-start relay. No power to the dash, no screen, no mode and no start. I swapped other relays, non of them worked.

I'm getting power to the bike, the power outlets in the frunk and trunk are hot and showing 12.17 volts. The hazards still work, brake lights, but no power to the console. The electronic parking brake does not have power routed to it.

No off the pull the right side body panels off to get to the vacuum lines on the throttle body.

[ahh-cool]

On my 2010 RT SE5 . There are two small black Vacuum hoses located at the front top of the motor. The vacuum hoses get very hot because of the location of them and dry out.
I had the exact same problem that you are describing and others I ride with have had the same problem. I changed out the two vacuum hoses and that fixed the problem.
Upon closer inspection of the two hoses I found the one closest to the exhaust manifold was cracked really bad and the one that is on left side of the motor was not as bad just dried out.
Do yourself a favor spend the money on OEM hoses , it is well worth it. The cost for me was $16.00 CAN each hose and two are required.

My spyder had about 18,600 miles on it when the hoses needed changing.

I would change them out when the spyder is cool or cold because they are very tight to get at so burning your hand is highly likely. They are easy to change just remove the front left hand panels.

I'm pretty sure this is not your problem. I would imagine you have an electrical problem.
If you only have 12 volts after charging your battery then your battery needs to be replaced.
If you have an electrical diagram I would follow it and see if you have power where you're suppose to
Stefan

[Peacemaker7]

I'm pretty sure this is not your problem. I would imagine you have an electrical problem.
If you only have 12 volts after charging your battery then your battery needs to be replaced.
If you have an electrical diagram I would follow it and see if you have power where you're suppose to
Stefan

As I understand it, a battery at rest should have a voltage of at least 12.6 V. I My charger shows the battery at full charge as soon as it turns on. So, bad battery? But even at 12.17 V, I should still get the display to power up? A few weeks before this, I went to ride the Spyder, everything cycled through, screen lit up, mode button worked, but when I hit the start button, it clicked once, the screen reset, the safety message came back up, it mode button the display went to normal, but no start, not until I charged the battery. Now I get nothing. I know a that all it takes is one cell to go bad without warning and leave you stranded. Had it happen to me in a 24V HMMWV in the middle of Gowen Field Idaho.

My dealership is open tomorrow, time to call them and put the extended warranty to work for me?

[Ronsam]

Change your Battery

As I understand it, a battery at rest should have a voltage of at least 12.6 V. I My charger shows the battery at full charge as soon as it turns on. So, bad battery? But even at 12.17 V, I should still get the display to power up? A few weeks before this, I went to ride the Spyder, everything cycled through, screen lit up, mode button worked, but when I hit the start button, it clicked once, the screen reset, the safety message came back up, it mode button the display went to normal, but no start, not until I charged the battery. Now I get nothing. I know a that all it takes is one cell to go bad without warning and leave you stranded. Had it happen to me in a 24V HMMWV in the middle of Gowen Field Idaho.

My dealership is open tomorrow, time to call them and put the extended warranty to work for me?

[Peacemaker7]

Change your Battery

Ronsam, Thanks, I plan to have the battery replaced when I take the bike back to the dealership. Jumping a weak battery should allow me to start the bike. I tried this, and I cannot get any life out of the dash, nor any of the systems that work when the key is turned. For example, the parking brake, once the key is turned, the circuit is hot and I can engage and disengage the parking brake. This no longer works, not even when I have jumper cables hooked to the battery. the only logical reason I can come up with is that the either the ignition switch is defective, or I fried all of the relays. I don't have a wiring schematic for the Sypder, so I cannot verify voltages at the fuse box for the various systems supported by that fuse / relay.

[bruiser]

Put your voltmeter on the terminals at the battery and then turn on the key. Watch the voltage drop. If there is a drop below 12 volts, battery is suspected. If there is no drop, possible bad key switch. You may also have a bad display module.

[bscrive]

I, too, think that your battery is bad. Similar thing happened to my wife on her old RS. The battery was only 2 months old. It was an Odyssey 680 battery. When it went out, all kinds of weird stuff happened.

[Peacemaker7]

Put your voltmeter on the terminals at the battery and then turn on the key. Watch the voltage drop. If there is a drop below 12 volts, battery is suspected. If there is no drop, possible bad key switch. You may also have a bad display module.

Thanks brusier, I tried this, no voltage drop when the key is turned. No voltage drop at the fuse box when the key was turned also. I did notice that when I had the battery charger on, the voltage read 12.73 V. As soon as I removed the leads, the voltage started dropping one one hundredth of a point every 3 to 4 seconds.

I called the dealership and will take it to them this weekend, so they can look at the ignition switch, and the display module.

[Highwayman2013]

In the meantime you could try another battery.

[Peacemaker7]

I borrowed a trailer to take my Spyder to the dealership two weekends ago. When I took it in I was expecting a call form them, to say: my display was fried, my ECU was fried, my recently installed ignition switch was fried and / or my battery was fried. Well I was wrong on all four counts. When they replaced the ignition switch, they did not fully seat the display cannon plug back into the display. It had worked its way loose which is what caused the bike to die and evidently cause a short that was draining the battery. I had them check the battery just in case, the battery is good. I picked up the bike this past Saturday, checked the battery voltage before I took off, 12.72 with the key off. I checked it yesterday, still holding at 12.70 after a weekend of sitting.

[bruiser]

Glad that's all it was. Sometimes just the simple things can cause big problems.

[smurfette]

Have you checked the throttle body? It's a well known issue with the 10's.... believe me, I know
Whoops, just saw the last comment, sorry!