Installing bearings

[Flamewinger]

I've seen both ways to install new bearings, either using grease around the outside of the bearing and inside where you're going to install it, and some don't use any grease at all. The service manual shows & specifies how to remove the bearings using a blind bearing puller, but when it comes to installing new bearings all it says is "install new bearings".

Use grease or not?


Susie
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[RonD]

Just use some light oil on both the inner and outer races to install the bearings. Do not use any type of anti-seeze product.

[PMK]

I assume you are referring to a chassis or wheel bearing with low rpm. Oil or grease is fine. I typically will use grease that is smooth and non fiber like. Most often Mobil 1 or Bel-Ray if it is a dirt bike.

Ensure the housing and bearing are spotless clean and not debris, even rag lint will prevent proper seating.

In all installs, you do not want to hit the inner race of the ball bearing as this will dent the race and cause early failure. You must use a tool of some sort, either a socket and block of wood or proper bearing driver. The socket muse be just slightly undersize of the bearings outer race and not able to hit the seals. Using the socket inverted from normal wrenching, place the wood over the socket and while keeping the bearing square and true for alignment tap the bearing into the housing.

Sometimes, it works best to heat the housing and chill the bearing.

If you are installing engine or gearbox bearings, install them dry or with loctite if deemed needed. These are always best to use heat and cold to provide the easiest slip fit and minimal use of tapping to install.

In all installs, ensure the bearing fully seats into the housing. Most often this is indicated by a more ringing tone while tapping into place.

Bearings can also be pressed using a hydraulic press and specific arbors. This works well also.

PK

[JayBros]

Sometimes, it works best to heat the housing and chill the bearing.PK

My mother wondered what lawnmower engine parts were doing in her refrigerator.

[Lamonster]

I just installed new bearings in my F3 sprocket and I put the bearing in the freezer and used the old bearing to knock it in.

[DrewNJ]

Never been a fan of striking bearings with a hammer unless in a pinch.
Bearing and seal die sets are pretty cheap and along with an inexpensive press makes installation easy and dummy proof.

[PMK]

My mother wondered what lawnmower engine parts were doing in her refrigerator.

My no doubt often wondered, but never said no to bearings in the freezer or oven if it was an ID fit. Plus engine cases in the oven.

As for striking a bearing, agree a press is best if available, but I still give a tap while under the press to ensure fully seated.

Honestly though, I do net ever remember a failure from tapping the outer race.

The removed bearing is a good trick also, provided it can be easily removed after the good bearing is in place.

PK

[Chupaca]

also only pound if no other choice. Pop by the hardware store buy a piece of heavy threaded rod with matching nuts some heavy guage steel bar stock cut to size drill rod size holes to make a installing tool. You can also rent them at tool stores and auto parts stores.

[SpyderFun]

I've seen both ways to install new bearings, either using grease around the outside of the bearing and inside where you're going to install it, and some don't use any grease at all. The service manual shows & specifies how to remove the bearings using a blind bearing puller, but when it comes to installing new bearings all it says is "install new bearings".

Use grease or not?


Susie
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

It really depends on what kind of bearing you are addressing and its application. Need some more info.... What Spyder manual and area are you referring to?

That said:
Installing a bearing or race is usually best if done by using a bench-press because it applies equal pressure all around the bearing / race. If not, use something of equal diameter (i.e. old bearing or race) as a "drift" so equal force is applied when striking to prevent "cocking" of the bearing / race during installation. Make sure you cover your "drift" with duct tape to prevent marring to the new bearing / race.

As Lamont stated, freezing the race makes the race "smaller" thus adding to an easier installation. Just make sure the area where the race is installed is both clean and then inspected for any kind of possible damage caused by removal before installing the new one.

[Cruzr Joe]

This whole thread is above my pay scale.


Cruzr Joe

[Flamewinger]

I'm using a "TechSpark Studio" service manual. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1423588551.117171.jpg

It specifies using a blind hole bearing puller to remove bearings. When installing new, it just says : "Install new wheel bearing.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1423588693.817717.jpg

[SpyderFun]

I'm using a "TechSpark Studio" service manual. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1423588551.117171.jpg

It specifies using a blind hole bearing puller to remove bearings. When installing new, it just says : "Install new wheel bearing.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1423588693.817717.jpg

Looks like you are trying to replace the Rear Hub Bearing (?). If so and from what I can tell, this appears to be what is known as a "sealed bearing" meaning it does not require grease like a typical axle wheel bearing would. If so, I would do as Lamont recommended and put it in your freezer for a day (dry ice is even better) and let it "shrink" down a bit because its a "press to fit" installation. On a side note, I would NOT try to apply heat to the hub because uneven heating of the hub could cause more problems then its worth.

[Flamewinger]

What started my confusion was a YouTube video showing the person putting grease around the outside of the sealed bearing as well as inside the hub. I know it's a pressfit and I'm going to try the freezer method but it still got me wondering. Thanks.

[SpyderFun]

What started my confusion was a YouTube video showing the person putting grease around the outside of the sealed bearing as well as inside the hub. I know it's a pressfit and I'm going to try the freezer method but it still got me wondering. Thanks.

​The problem with that is you do not want the outer race to "spin" which then defeats the purpose of the bearing itself - not to mention the damage a spinning race can do to the hub. Some press to fit installations require placing a low adhesive contact glue around the exterior of the outer race to ensure that after installation the race itself does not "spin". BRP does not require this be done per its maintenance manual.

[Flamewinger]

That's what I thought. Thanks

[PMK]

Hub and chassis bearings, apply grease to outside of race and inside hub bore. Thin film, not gobs. FWIW, you may want to remove the seals and repack the bearing with high end grease.

The RPM is low and heat difference is small during use.

PK