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  1. #1
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    Default Changing spark plugs

    It is time for me (not me but Joe) to change the spark plugs on my 14 RT. I am wondering if anyone else has done this yet? The service manual is pretty vague on what needs to be removed to access them. They refer to removing the 'front body module' in the section on air inlet removal but they don't use that term again in the BODY section. The section on spark plugs has no information at all on what panels to remove. In my manuals for 2010 & 2013 the section on spark plugs listed the panels that needed to be removed. No such luck on the 14 and my dealer hasn't done spark plugs on one yet.

    One good thing is the air filter on the 1330 is much easier to access and change than it was on the 998.
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  2. #2
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default THEY HAVE A VIDEO

    Ann go look at the video that was done on the complete dis-assembly of a 2014 RT......I think they are referring to the entire front section which comes off as one piece.....I think it was 10 easy to access bolts and a couple of plugs to un-couple ..........Mike

  3. #3
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    Default What..!!

    you all have no service manual..!!?? May I suggest pulling the engine..makes it a breeze.. sorry, never looked into it.. but if you bring it by I will change them..love puzzels...
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    Ann go look at the video that was done on the complete dis-assembly of a 2014 RT......I think they are referring to the entire front section which comes off as one piece.....I think it was 10 easy to access bolts and a couple of plugs to un-couple ..........Mike
    Mike:

    Any idea on where I might find that video or who filmed it? 10 bolts and a couple of plugs sounds way too easy for a Spyder.
    2017 F3T-SM6 Squared Away Mirror Wedgies & Alignment
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    2010 RTS-SM5 59,148 miles
    2010 RT- 622

  5. #5
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default LOOK HERE

    Quote Originally Posted by SpyderAnn01 View Post
    Mike:

    Any idea on where I might find that video or who filmed it? 10 bolts and a couple of plugs sounds way too easy for a Spyder.
    ..................Ann sorry I can't do links , but...........in the Search box I typed ....2014 RT Video.......and about #8 down "Dragonrider" asked for the similar info,,,,,,,someone posted THE VIDEO YOU WANT about two posts down , in the thread................sorry this is so complicated..............Mike
    Last edited by BLUEKNIGHT911; 02-04-2015 at 08:32 PM.

  6. #6
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    Default

    Thanks Mike. Sometimes searching here is a pain. There is almost too much info. I'll be sure to take a look at that post.
    2017 F3T-SM6 Squared Away Mirror Wedgies & Alignment
    2014 RTS-SM6 123,600 miles Sold 11/2017
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    2011 RTS-SM5 5,000 miles
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpyderAnn01 View Post
    The section on spark plugs has no information at all on what panels to remove.
    It is about the worst MC manual I have run into yet. However, the ignition coils removal (stick coils) is listed out. Can't guarantee this is all you would have to take off.

    Ignition Coil Access

    Refer to BODY subsection and remove the following:
    - RH and LH upper side panels
    - RH and LH acoustic panels.
    Refer to AIR INLET SYSTEM and remove the primary air inlet silencer (air filter housing)

  8. #8
    Very Active Member M109Dreamer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpyderAnn01 View Post
    Thanks Mike. Sometimes searching here is a pain. There is almost too much info. I'll be sure to take a look at that post.
    Here is the video of removing the frunk that I saved. Not sure if there are any difference for the 14's.

    Watch "How to remove the Boot (frunk) on a Can am Spyder RT" on YouTube
    How to remove the Boot (frunk) on a Can am Spyder RT:
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  9. #9
    Very Active Member ThreeWheels's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by M109Dreamer View Post
    Here is the video of removing the frunk that I saved. Not sure if there are any difference for the 14's.

    Watch "How to remove the Boot (frunk) on a Can am Spyder RT" on YouTube
    How to remove the Boot (frunk) on a Can am Spyder RT:
    Thanks !
    I'm not changing my plugs, rather I want to replace the foglights so the color matches the HID's I have.
    I'm surprised, but you have to remove the frunk to replace the bulbs.
    Sorry, I didn't mean to hijack the thread.

    And now, back to our regularly scheduled program.
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  10. #10
    Active Member Doc - Riverside's Avatar
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    Default This should give you an idea

    The spark plugs are buried. Looks like the Frunk has to come off, the top console and a bunch of plastic associated with the air box.


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    Last edited by Doc - Riverside; 02-05-2015 at 04:13 AM.

  11. #11
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    At what mileage are you going to replace them? And, what about changing out the airbox to the custom one at the same time? Someone posted some time ago that changing the box gave much more access to the engine. That would probably include the plugs.

  12. #12
    Very Active Member ulflyer's Avatar
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    Iridium plugs run over a 100K miles in a car, many of which run RPM's as high as the 1330. Personally, I don't plan to change mine unless I can see/feel a change in performance. Maybe if I were to do long hauling like Anne and some others, it would be
    worth doing. But for many of us, give it 40 or 50K at least.
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  13. #13
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    +1

    Your plugs in your 2014 should be good for a LONG time. You may not get to 100K mi, but you will be close. Watch your mileage, and you will see when you need to do a tune up.

    You will be much happier for not doing a plug change now.

    Jerry

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    anyone know what the owner's manual recommends for changing spark plugs in a 2014 RT with an ACE 1330 engine ? can't seem to find my manual at the moment ?

    osm

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    Quote Originally Posted by Orange Spyder Man View Post
    anyone know what the owner's manual recommends for changing spark plugs in a 2014 RT with an ACE 1330 engine ? can't seem to find my manual at the moment ?

    osm
    28000 miles

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doc - Riverside View Post
    The spark plugs are buried. Looks like the Frunk has to come off, the top console and a bunch of plastic associated with the air box.


    ace head.jpgace head 2.jpgTri Axis install 001.jpgTri Axis install 002.jpgTri Axis install 015.jpg
    That's what I figured. Nothing is easy on the Spyder

    Quote Originally Posted by Doc Humphreys View Post
    At what mileage are you going to replace them? And, what about changing out the airbox to the custom one at the same time? Someone posted some time ago that changing the box gave much more access to the engine. That would probably include the plugs.
    On the 2014 the air filter is round (think oil filter shaped) and is relatively easy to change. I don't see where you would gain much more access on the 1330 by doing that.

    I think we will wait a while. I'm at 34,600 miles and like someone else pointed out the manual says change at 28,000. I'm not having any issues but was just trying to follow the guidelines for a change!
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    2014 RTL-SE6 8,600 miles
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  17. #17
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    You have 34,600 miles on your 2014!!?

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    Quote Originally Posted by ACE1330 View Post
    28000 miles
    gee thanks... I have some time before changing them will be necessary.. I don't have 1000 miles on my Spyder yet..

    osm

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by spacetiger View Post
    You have 34,600 miles on your 2014!!?
    I do, I picked it up on 02/21/14. I've been slacking since October though.
    2017 F3T-SM6 Squared Away Mirror Wedgies & Alignment
    2014 RTS-SM6 123,600 miles Sold 11/2017
    2014 RTL-SE6 8,600 miles
    2011 RTS-SM5 5,000 miles
    2013 RTS-SM5 burned up with 13,200 miles in 13 weeks
    2010 RTS-SM5 59,148 miles
    2010 RT- 622

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gray Ghost View Post
    It is about the worst MC manual I have run into yet. However, the ignition coils removal (stick coils) is listed out. Can't guarantee this is all you would have to take off.

    Ignition Coil Access

    Refer to BODY subsection and remove the following:
    - RH and LH upper side panels
    - RH and LH acoustic panels.
    Refer to AIR INLET SYSTEM and remove the primary air inlet silencer (air filter housing)
    It is especially bad this year, at least in the past it told you what panels you needed to remove. This year the spark plug section looks like an afterthought.
    2017 F3T-SM6 Squared Away Mirror Wedgies & Alignment
    2014 RTS-SM6 123,600 miles Sold 11/2017
    2014 RTL-SE6 8,600 miles
    2011 RTS-SM5 5,000 miles
    2013 RTS-SM5 burned up with 13,200 miles in 13 weeks
    2010 RTS-SM5 59,148 miles
    2010 RT- 622

  21. #21
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default FRUNK REMOVAL

    Ann I just read your latest post and you arn't going to do your plugs for awhile so this won't affect you NOW.........However for those that are contemplating this ...I just removed mine !!!!!,,,,I watched Three video's above doing this ( got a headache from all the motion ) ( and the Aussie one I could barely hear )........and maybe this will HELP.....The only TOOL you need is a 10 mm socket....if you have a wobbly and an extension and a drill adapter it will go faster........this was never completely explained BUT underneath the Spyder they show you two bolts and two nuts on the cross piece.....you only undo the 10 mm bolts ...leave the 12mm nuts alone .............on the top after you remove the plastic triangular pieces you will see 6 bolts , they all 10 mm ....the two in the middle leave them alone ......just undo the outside one's (4)................I have a BASIC RT so the only two plugs were on the left as I faced the Spyder ,if you have FOG lights etc there are more plugs to detach......In none of the Video's was the AIR SCOOP mentioned ( it's under the left front fender ) ( right side as you face it )...............well they should have because that was a B*tch to undo, have one or two small screw drivers handy , you will need to loosen the clamp and pry off the rubber ELBOE.....at least that's what I did........I may not put it back on..............Have fun ....Mike

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpyderAnn01 View Post
    I do, I picked it up on 02/21/14. I've been slacking since October though.
    That is rolling some rubber! Wow!

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    Ann I just read your latest post and you arn't going to do your plugs for awhile so this won't affect you NOW.........However for those that are contemplating this ...I just removed mine !!!!!,,,,I watched Three video's above doing this ( got a headache from all the motion ) ( and the Aussie one I could barely hear )........and maybe this will HELP.....The only TOOL you need is a 10 mm socket....if you have a wobbly and an extension and a drill adapter it will go faster........this was never completely explained BUT underneath the Spyder they show you two bolts and two nuts on the cross piece.....you only undo the 10 mm bolts ...leave the 12mm nuts alone .............on the top after you remove the plastic triangular pieces you will see 6 bolts , they all 10 mm ....the two in the middle leave them alone ......just undo the outside one's (4)................I have a BASIC RT so the only two plugs were on the left as I faced the Spyder ,if you have FOG lights etc there are more plugs to detach......In none of the Video's was the AIR SCOOP mentioned ( it's under the left front fender ) ( right side as you face it )...............well they should have because that was a B*tch to undo, have one or two small screw drivers handy , you will need to loosen the clamp and pry off the rubber ELBOE.....at least that's what I did........I may not put it back on..............Have fun ....Mike
    You did this for the heck of it? You may be a little crazy. We will give it a go but maybe next month. Did you have to take off the fairing (glove box, dash) or just the front trunk and the left and right acoustic panels?
    2017 F3T-SM6 Squared Away Mirror Wedgies & Alignment
    2014 RTS-SM6 123,600 miles Sold 11/2017
    2014 RTL-SE6 8,600 miles
    2011 RTS-SM5 5,000 miles
    2013 RTS-SM5 burned up with 13,200 miles in 13 weeks
    2010 RTS-SM5 59,148 miles
    2010 RT- 622

  24. #24
    Very Active Member Highwayman2013's Avatar
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    I would like to observe this operation, could be fun.438.jpg
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  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpyderAnn01 View Post
    This year the spark plug section looks like an afterthought.
    I had to check the page numbers three times. I was convinced that some pages didn't get scanned. Lots of luck when y'all attempt it.

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