2014 Semi-automatic and oil

[WEB-WVR]

I recommend Amsoil because that is what I use and I've had it tested. I'm not saying Amsoil is the best. But I think the factual data shows it to be at least one of the best, and definitely superior to BRP's offerings. The biggest negative I get about Amsoil are people who do not like the way it is marketed. But that is not a ding on the product in any way.

The Amsoil you already have is perfect for the 1330 ACE motor. I'd say you are in good shape for an oil change as long as you have enough. The SM6 takes 5+ quarts so you will need 6 quarts for a change. The SE6 needs 6+ quarts so you'll need 7 quarts if you have the automatic trans version.

I now carry the HiFlo filter, O-Rings and Washer set for the 1330 ACE motor for $12.95 delivered.

Us Oil debaters make oil seem more complicated than it needs to be. Lubrication is a complicated subject. But if you stay within the BRP requirements and get a good, 100% Synthetic oil. You're headed in the right direction.

Ron, I have a 2014 ST-limited, the V-twin. Auto Transmission. I want to switch to Amsoil, is the 10-40 OK for this engine and transmission ? Thanks !

[trikermutha]

Amsoil recommends the 10W40 oil on the 1330 SE6

[Doc - Riverside]

......................NO NO NO .........Only the 1330 clutch / trans will be able to use this OIL ...............This clutch is different from the 990/998 series engines/trans .......................Mike

The only difference between the 998 clutch and the ACE 1330 is the 998 is a centrifugal engagement and the ACE 1330 is hydraulically operated. The same oil spec -- API - SL, SJ. SH and SG is used by all model Spyder's.

[BajaRon]

The only difference between the 998 clutch and the ACE 1330 is the 998 is a centrifugal engagement and the ACE 1330 is hydraulically operated. The same oil spec -- API - SL, SJ. SH and SG is used by all model Spyder's. A wet clutch is a wet clutch.

Well, not really. There can be big differences between one wet clutch and the next. It depends a great deal on the friction material and to a lesser degree on the metal used in the clutch plates. BRP obviously changed the clutch material in the 1330 because it is not nearly as sensitive to friction modifiers as the 998 is. Put a friction modified oil in your 998 and you'll be spinning your clutch plates and not too happy about the cost of a clutch rebuild.

[BajaRon]

Ron, I have a 2014 ST-limited, the V-twin. Auto Transmission. I want to switch to Amsoil, is the 10-40 OK for this engine and transmission ? Thanks !

The same Motorcycle, wet clutch specific 10w-40 Amsoil is the recommended lubricant for all Spyders. The only real difference in oil specs between the 998 and the 1330 is that the 1330 clutch can tolerate oils with friction modifiers added.

Think about it this way. Does BRP recommend a different BRP oil for the 1330? No. BRP recommends the same BRP product for both engines. And so does Amsoil.

[Doc - Riverside]

Well, not really. There can be big differences between one wet clutch and the next. It depends a great deal on the friction material and to a lesser degree on the metal used in the clutch plates. BRP obviously changed the clutch material in the 1330 because it is not nearly as sensitive to friction modifiers as the 998 is. Put a friction modified oil in your 998 and you'll be spinning your clutch plates and not too happy about the cost of a clutch rebuild.

Ron what I was trying to point out as you did about the BRP oil Spec has not changed for any of the Spyder Models from 2008 to present as bluenight 911 stated. The only difference between the 998 SE5 transmission and the 1330 SE6 transmission is how the clutch engages and disengaged engine power to the rear wheel. The SE5 is dependent upon engine RPM to engage ( centrifugal force) where as the SE6 is basically the same as the SM6 in operation. Hydraulics operates the clutch to engage or disengage in both the SE6 and SM6. The TCM controls the hydraulics to the clutch. The nice thing about this new design is that the clutch is it is engaged (locked up) independent of engine RPM as long as you are moving. The SE5 requires you to pay attention to the RPM to ensure the clutch stays 100% engaged

[BajaRon]

Ron what I was trying to point out as you did about the BRP oil Spec has not changed for any of the Spyder Models from 2008 to present as bluenight 911 stated. The only difference between the 998 SE5 transmission and the 1330 SE6 transmission is how the clutch engages and disengaged engine power to the rear wheel. The SE5 is dependent upon engine RPM to engage ( centrifugal force) where as the SE6 is basically the same as the SM6 in operation. Hydraulics operates the clutch to engage or disengage in both the SE6 and SM6. The TCM controls the hydraulics to the clutch. The nice thing about this new design is that the clutch is it is engaged (locked up) independent of engine RPM as long as you are moving. The SE5 requires you to pay attention to the RPM to ensure the clutch stays 100% engaged

True. The engagement process for the SE6 has been changed (For the better without a doubt). But as far as I know, the engagement process for the manual (SM6) has not changed. This would mean that BRP has also changed the friction plate materials as the manual suffered the same sensitivity to slippage as the SE version. Just speculation on my part as it is possible that the engagement pressure has been increased on the SM6 or some other method has been used to prevent slippage.

[Spyderups]

I don't think the BRP oil is 100% synthetic....petroleum base additives....Amsoil is 100% synthetic...use it in everything..duramax..allison...axles...4 wheeler...in old 12 rts se5...lawn mower....and after break in my 15 rtsse6 1330,10 - 40.Change the oil once a year on everything....I used Mobil 1 till I found out its not full synthetic. $20.00 dollars a year makes you a preferred customer.If it matters,cheaper to use in the long run.10,000 miles is no problem....and I'm old school.

[jaherbst]

I don't think the BRP oil is 100% synthetic....petroleum base additives....Amsoil is 100% synthetic...use it in everything..duramax..allison...axles...4 wheeler...in old 12 rts se5...lawn mower....and after break in my 15 rtsse6 1330,10 - 40.Change the oil once a year on everything....I used Mobil 1 till I found out its not full synthetic. $20.00 dollars a year makes you a preferred customer.If it matters,cheaper to use in the long run.10,000 miles is no problem....and I'm old school.

BRP oil is a blend but who knows what the ratio is. (There I have done it. Never thought I WOULD EVER POST ON A BORING OIL THREAD!)

Jack

[bluep]

BajaRon
How does one go about ordering filters from you? Do you carry the trans filter for the 1330 Se6?
How big a job is it to change the 1330 trans filter? Is it assessable from the RT side like the motor filter
Thanks

[trikermutha]

BajaRon
How does one go about ordering filters from you? Do you carry the trans filter for the 1330 Se6?
How big a job is it to change the 1330 trans filter? Is it assessable from the RT side like the motor filter
Thanks

Send him a PM..

[Pampurrs]

Sorry to (sort of) hijack this thread but I have a somewhat related question...

Based on what I've read here and elsewhere, I'm convinced that full synthetic is the way to go. Unfortunately, I have already purchased 5 quarts of BRP (blended) oil from the dealer. Since I already have this oil and probably can't return it, would there be any harm in putting three quarts of Amsoil full synthetic and two quarts of the BRP blended oil in on my next oil change?

Thanks,

Pam

[trikermutha]

I would use up the BRP oil first then go full Amsoil I used the BRP stuff for 2 oil changes then switched to Amsoil last week..

[JayBros]

Sorry to (sort of) hijack this thread but I have a somewhat related question...

Based on what I've read here and elsewhere, I'm convinced that full synthetic is the way to go. Unfortunately, I have already purchased 5 quarts of BRP (blended) oil from the dealer. Since I already have this oil and probably can't return it, would there be any harm in putting three quarts of Amsoil full synthetic and two quarts of the BRP blended oil in on my next oil change?

Thanks,

Pam

The BRP blend oil has a seal atop the spout that, if unbroken, should be acceptable for return to the dealer. Suggest you give it a try. I also would not sully the synthetic oil by mixing it with the blend although it can be done with no problem.

[BajaRon]

BajaRon
How does one go about ordering filters from you? Do you carry the trans filter for the 1330 Se6?
How big a job is it to change the 1330 trans filter? Is it assessable from the RT side like the motor filter
Thanks

You can either PM me here or email me at fyredad@hotmail.com I usually get back with emails quicker than PM's. But either one works.

I do carry the 1330 ACE transmission filter for $94.00 delivered. The manual does say you need BUDS to do this change. But from speaking to those who have done it, this is not true. No one that I've talked to who has done this filter change has used BUDS and they all went smoothly. Not giving advice here. Just telling you about the feedback I've gotten so far.

I have not personally done a 1330 trans filter change so I am not the one to give advise on this.

Sorry to (sort of) hijack this thread but I have a somewhat related question...

Based on what I've read here and elsewhere, I'm convinced that full synthetic is the way to go. Unfortunately, I have already purchased 5 quarts of BRP (blended) oil from the dealer. Since I already have this oil and probably can't return it, would there be any harm in putting three quarts of Amsoil full synthetic and two quarts of the BRP blended oil in on my next oil change?

Thanks,

Pam

I agree with Trikermutha. Just use the BRP oil and switch to Amsoil (or whatever) at the next oil change. Personally, I would not go over 4,000 miles on the BRP blended. But that's nothing more than my opinion based on oil analysis testings done on that oil in the Spyder.

[Sarge707]

Are the High Flow 1330 filters as durable as stock because I remember BRP Putting the wire meshing in the Later GS filters for longer use? Will the High Flow stand up to the warranty if push comes to shove with a dealer?

It certainly is a Great Kit for $12.95!!!

[BajaRon]

Are the High Flow 1330 filters as durable as stock because I remember BRP Putting the wire meshing in the Later GS filters for longer use? Will the High Flow stand up to the warranty if push comes to shove with a dealer?

It certainly is a Great Kit for $12.95!!!

My understanding is that BRP had a number of oil filter failures. Their filters, not aftermarket. To my knowledge, no aftermarket filter has ever failed. The BRP filters suffered collapse and disintegration when run longer than their recommended service interval (which if I remember right was 3,500 miles at that time).

They improved the construction and materials quite a bit (wire mesh, etc.) and now they call them 'Extended'. But they are comparing their new filters to their old filters. Not to aftermarket filters.

I've personally run the HiFlo filter 6,400 miles. I know others who have run them much farther (on the 998 engine). I've sold somewhat over thousand HiFlo filters for the 1330 ACE motor so far. These are of the same construction as filters run in just about every motorcycle ever made. They have a great track record. Not only for longevity and reliability. But also for keeping the oil clean.

[GeorgiaBill]

I agree as well. The Automatic Transmission is simply an alternative method of shifting the Manual gears. It's really misleading because the transmission is not the 'Automatic' part of what is going on. It is the Clutch Engagement and gear changing action that have been automated, (no clutch lever and no shift lever). The transmission gear clusters are identical.

However, it is the transmission gears, not the engine, which wear the oil out. That is why, in most applications, the engine has a specifically formulated oil and the transmission has a completely different oil designed especially for that particular environment.

But, to save weight and size, these 2 very dissimilar mechanisms are combined in most light weight machines, including motorcycle applications. This puts a real burden on 1 oil to do both jobs well. That is why I encourage people to consider using a better oil.

That was really informative. I just didn't connect the dots before.

I think my transmission is very clunky, and hope a full synthetic like Amsoil will improve that. I had a 1982 GL1100 and went to synthetic on the second oil change. The transmission became much smoother.

[KX5062]

In my SE6 I switched to the Amsoil via the Baja Ron change kit. For my bike it did improve the shifting quality dramatically for the better. As to the filters, HiFlo are adequate, but nowhere near the quality of the factory OEM filters, which are truly superior quality products.

[ulflyer]

As to the filters, HiFlo are adequate, but nowhere near the quality of the factory OEM filters, which are truly superior quality products.

Did you have tests done to compare flow rate? Or perhaps decided that the wire wrap somehow made it better?

FWIW, HiFlow has been proven to be a top quality filter maker for many years now. In any case, I'm sure either brand will be more than adequate.

I use both, whichever I happen to have on hand when I do
an oil change.