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  1. #1
    Registered Users Dragonrider's Avatar
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    Default Tear down observation & question

    I've got all the tupperware off my RT, ready to install all my farkles (plugged the heater in....). I noticed that over half of the rubber grommets that are supposed to hold panels on, were either pushed through, or at least partially pushed through. Didn't give me a lot of confidence in the assembly of my bike...

    BTW - I have a connector at the back of the gas tank with a GN/BG (+12) wire, and a solid GN wire - is that a ground?? Only two wires in the connector (which I need to use)..
    2014 RT SE6 Rider
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  2. #2
    Very Active Member stevedfive's Avatar
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    It's the keyed power and ground for the GPS device. I can't remember which is which. Just take a test light to it.
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    Last edited by stevedfive; 01-03-2015 at 10:38 PM.
    2014 Timeless Black RTS/SE - BRP CB/Comm System; BRP Zumo 660 GPS System; BRP Cellphone Interface; BRP ST-1 Helmets w/BRP Headsets; BRP XM Radio; BRP Tri-Axis Handlebars; BRP Adj Wind Deflectors; BRP Adj Vent Windshield; BRP Comfort Seat & Utopia Backrest; Corbin Armrests; HMT Brake Light; TricLED 3/4 Brake & Running Lights; TricLED Fender Lights & Rr Cargo Lights; CD Fender TIPS Kit; Bump Skid; Scorpio i900 Alarm; Touratech GPS Locking Mount; NBV Highway Mounts; BBP Brake Pedal, Stebel horn.

  3. #3
    Registered Users Dragonrider's Avatar
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    Indeed - 'dat's da beastie....
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  4. #4
    Very Active Member jcthorne's Avatar
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    for each of the rubber donuts, install a small black tywrap through it to hold in place. They will no longer push through or fall out the back side and get lost. Spyderpops showed me this trick. Have never lost another one since. They Tywrap does not interfere with the peg.

    Blue Flame Spyder F3-S
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  5. #5
    Very Active Member Purple Guy's Avatar
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    2014 RT-Ltd , Cognac

  6. #6
    Registered Users DRAGN's Avatar
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    Default Duct tape and silicone sealant

    I removed all of the rubber donuts and put silicone sealant on the grove and re-installed them.
    never had the drop out problem again

  7. #7
    Registered Users Dragonrider's Avatar
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    As the tear down and installation process continues, I am even more impressed with the positive changes to the RT. I change the horn in my 2010 - what a pain. On the 2014, it's just inside the left grill - easy access, and easy to change....

    However, that engineer that put the star washer on the bolt you need to remove to install Ron's sway bar needs to be shot. I'm sure it was put there to insure the bolt wouldn't fall off, if the nut did - still NOT fun to remove!!!!
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  8. #8
    Registered Users 3 Wheel Addict's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dragonrider View Post
    As the tear down and installation process continues, I am even more impressed with the positive changes to the RT. I change the horn in my 2010 - what a pain. On the 2014, it's just inside the left grill - easy access, and easy to change....

    However, that engineer that put the star washer on the bolt you need to remove to install Ron's sway bar needs to be shot. I'm sure it was put there to insure the bolt wouldn't fall off, if the nut did - still NOT fun to remove!!!!
    That's to make sure it don't dislodge while its moving down the assembly line. Put the nut back on and drive the bolt out with small hammer, ezee-peeze.
    Sold my 14 RTS went back to 2 wheels.
    2014 Kawasaki Vaquero SE

  9. #9
    Registered Users SpyderFun's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dragonrider View Post
    ... I noticed that over half of the rubber grommets that are supposed to hold panels on, were either pushed through, or at least partially pushed through. Didn't give me a lot of confidence in the assembly of my bike...
    I believe there was a BRP Service Bulletin on this for this very reason.

  10. #10
    Registered Users Dragonrider's Avatar
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    Well, I used a bit of grip cement on each of the recalcitrant grommets (NOT the cheese kind), and they are there for the duration! The two wire plug behind the gas tank had a green/beige and solid green wire - the gn/bg was hot (switched 12V), and the solid gn was ground - for those interested. The plug had a blank inserted to keep it clean, so I pulled the seals out, installed push in connectors, and used the plug - easy, once you have figured out what wires are for what...

    The only scary bit came when I removed the bottom tupperware shields, and saw a metal rectangle CRAMMED with 18G wires - I mean CRAMMED FULL of the suckers. I added a sheet of rubber over the end (using the grip glue fix all) just to add a bit more protection for all those wild electrons - wouldn't want them gathering in my Gremlin Bell and dropping on to the road...
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  11. #11
    Active Member Doc - Riverside's Avatar
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    Default Plug you found

    Quote Originally Posted by Dragonrider View Post
    Well, I used a bit of grip cement on each of the recalcitrant grommets (NOT the cheese kind), and they are there for the duration! The two wire plug behind the gas tank had a green/beige and solid green wire - the gn/bg was hot (switched 12V), and the solid gn was ground - for those interested. The plug had a blank inserted to keep it clean, so I pulled the seals out, installed push in connectors, and used the plug - easy, once you have figured out what wires are for what...

    The only scary bit came when I removed the bottom tupperware shields, and saw a metal rectangle CRAMMED with 18G wires - I mean CRAMMED FULL of the suckers. I added a sheet of rubber over the end (using the grip glue fix all) just to add a bit more protection for all those wild electrons - wouldn't want them gathering in my Gremlin Bell and dropping on to the road...
    I would be careful of what you are using that plug to power. The 12vdc is coming from the radio to power the Factory GPS. Normally it would be fused for about a 2 amp max load to protect the radio.

  12. #12
    Registered Users Dragonrider's Avatar
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    It's powering my Garmin Montana GPS. Used as intended, but with a better GPS.
    2014 RT SE6 Rider
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