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Installing an F3 89 tooth rear sprocket on my ST - does it work??
So let's say I want to install the F3 89 tooth rear sprocket on my 2013 ST. I did some research and it looks like I should be able to with one exception, finding the right belt.
Here is a chart belt numbers.
2013 and earlier all models, 2014/15 RS & ST
705501576 Drive Belt
2014/15 RT
705501304 Drive Belt. Model-RT
2015 F3
705501304Drive Belt. Model-Australia, Brazil, Europe, Japan
705502157 Drive Belt. Model-North America
So what I need to know. What is the difference between the standard belt 705501576 on my ST and The belt on the 2014/15 RT? I am guessing length but not sure. If it is, how much difference?
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Looks like..!!
we need a spec's chart. Could order one of each find the one that will work with the adjustment range and send the rest back... no help I know...
Gene and Ilana De Laney
Mt. Helix, California
2012 RS sm5
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
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Just curious, what would changing the sprocket do for you? Higher speeds at lower RPM?
Bob
2011 RT-S SM5 - Black
Bought June 2013 with 450 miles. 27K on 8-1-2017.
Farkles - DIY Trunk Break Light, HMT Break Light, DIY Mirror Turn Signal Lights, DIY Bluetooth Dongle, DIY iPod Setup, DIY Alarm System Install, Show Chrome front fender / rear saddle bag lights, 4th break light around the trunk, Vented Windshield, Baja Ron Sway Bar, DIY GPS setup, Smooth Spyder, BRP Chrome Mirrors, Adjustable deflectors, Triaxis handlebars, NVB Pegs, Bad Boy Airhorn... More to come
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Originally Posted by finless
Just curious, what would changing the sprocket do for you? Higher speeds at lower RPM?
Bob
Higher RPM, more power on launch, less time in 4 gear on the highway.
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Interesting.... I would like to go the other way to be honest.
Here in Ca people do 75-80 on the freeway all the time. I do not like running at over 5500 RPM cruising at 75 for long distances. My ride up to Redding Ca in October I found that at 73 MPH (just under 5500 RPM) I got way better gas mileage than at 75 or over. I could easily do 150 miles at 72-73 on a tank. At 75 I only got about 130 miles.
Bob
2011 RT-S SM5 - Black
Bought June 2013 with 450 miles. 27K on 8-1-2017.
Farkles - DIY Trunk Break Light, HMT Break Light, DIY Mirror Turn Signal Lights, DIY Bluetooth Dongle, DIY iPod Setup, DIY Alarm System Install, Show Chrome front fender / rear saddle bag lights, 4th break light around the trunk, Vented Windshield, Baja Ron Sway Bar, DIY GPS setup, Smooth Spyder, BRP Chrome Mirrors, Adjustable deflectors, Triaxis handlebars, NVB Pegs, Bad Boy Airhorn... More to come
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Originally Posted by finless
Interesting.... I would like to go the other way to be honest.
Here in Ca people do 75-80 on the freeway all the time. I do not like running at over 5500 RPM cruising at 75 for long distances. My ride up to Redding Ca in October I found that at 73 MPH (just under 5500 RPM) I got way better gas mileage than at 75 or over. I could easily do 150 miles at 72-73 on a tank. At 75 I only got about 130 miles.
Bob
There was a bigger front sprocket was available some years ago in the aftermarket. That would drop the rpm a little bit. I have not seen anything about it lately.
I live in a more rural location. Provincial secondary highways and the county I live in the speed limit is 80 kms (50 mph). In reality you will not get ticketed if you're over a little bit. But that makes for a lot of driving in 4th to keep the rpm above 4,000.
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belt
Don't know much about the belts other than the 2014 RT belt is heavier because of the triple 1330. I can only assume the length would be the same as previous year but I'm only guessing.......
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Originally Posted by billybovine
There was a bigger front sprocket was available some years ago in the aftermarket. That would drop the rpm a little bit. I have not seen anything about it lately.
I live in a more rural location. Provincial secondary highways and the county I live in the speed limit is 80 kms (50 mph). In reality you will not get ticketed if you're over a little bit. But that makes for a lot of driving in 4th to keep the rpm above 4,000.
Not to derail your subject but....
Why cant I find how many teeth the RT has for the front sprocket? I cannot find that info in the service manual
Anyway I did find this 30 tooth
http://www.batquad.de/shop/CAN-AM-SP...roduct-58.html
But all the talk about this was for the RS. DO all the spyders have the same tooth count front sprocket?
Bob
2011 RT-S SM5 - Black
Bought June 2013 with 450 miles. 27K on 8-1-2017.
Farkles - DIY Trunk Break Light, HMT Break Light, DIY Mirror Turn Signal Lights, DIY Bluetooth Dongle, DIY iPod Setup, DIY Alarm System Install, Show Chrome front fender / rear saddle bag lights, 4th break light around the trunk, Vented Windshield, Baja Ron Sway Bar, DIY GPS setup, Smooth Spyder, BRP Chrome Mirrors, Adjustable deflectors, Triaxis handlebars, NVB Pegs, Bad Boy Airhorn... More to come
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Originally Posted by finless
Not to derail your subject but....
Why cant I find how many teeth the RT has for the front sprocket? I cannot find that info in the service manual
Anyway I did find this 30 tooth
http://www.batquad.de/shop/CAN-AM-SP...roduct-58.html
But all the talk about this was for the RS. DO all the spyders have the same tooth count front sprocket?
Bob
I think all Spyders have 28 tooth front sprocket. If the picture is accurate for the vendor you found. That is the old style sprocket. Only 1 flange and no way to bolt on the damper/flywheel, what ever that thing is. That sproket should bolt on and work.
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Originally Posted by billybovine
I think all Spyders have 28 tooth front sprocket. If the picture is accurate for the vendor you found. That is the old style sprocket. Only 1 flange and no way to bolt on the damper/flywheel, what ever that thing is. That sproket should bolt on and work.
I have a 30t front and it is a big improvement but be aware that it will not work with a SE transmission as the nanny will want to shift I bet the rear sprocket change will cause the same issues
2 happy happy spyders
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I sure hope someone figures out what parts and belt combo is needed to put the new larger rear sproket on the older RTs. I predict this will be a popular upgrade if Lamonster or one of our other vendors assembles a kit.
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Originally Posted by r1100rider
I have a 30t front and it is a big improvement but be aware that it will not work with a SE transmission as the nanny will want to shift I bet the rear sprocket change will cause the same issues
Where did you get your 30T and what spyder model is it on?
Bob
2011 RT-S SM5 - Black
Bought June 2013 with 450 miles. 27K on 8-1-2017.
Farkles - DIY Trunk Break Light, HMT Break Light, DIY Mirror Turn Signal Lights, DIY Bluetooth Dongle, DIY iPod Setup, DIY Alarm System Install, Show Chrome front fender / rear saddle bag lights, 4th break light around the trunk, Vented Windshield, Baja Ron Sway Bar, DIY GPS setup, Smooth Spyder, BRP Chrome Mirrors, Adjustable deflectors, Triaxis handlebars, NVB Pegs, Bad Boy Airhorn... More to come
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Billy,
Since you're going to be using the F-3's rear sprocket; why not try that belt also?
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Originally Posted by Bob Denman
Billy,
Since you're going to be using the F-3's rear sprocket; why not try that belt also?
The belt part number for 2014/15 RT and 2015 F3 international version being different than all other Spyders ever made I would assume the 1330 engine changes the center to center distance of the sprockets. So I assume the longer F3 NA belt will not fit.
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Originally Posted by jcthorne
I sure hope someone figures out what parts and belt combo is needed to put the new larger rear sproket on the older RTs. I predict this will be a popular upgrade if Lamonster or one of our other vendors assembles a kit.
Rear Sprocket (black) 7055502187
Drive belt 7055502157
I have not be able to get the prices on either items above...They parts and prices are not available...(at least 2 weeks ago when I had my dealer check)
These are the numbers I came up with to put the 89 tooth sprocket and belt on my 2014 RTS...
I think this will really wake up the heavier RT's, especially for those of us running the taller 215/60/15 rear tire, towing a trailer and riding double on mostly mountain roads...Those who ride mostly flat parts of the country and doing interstates would not appreciate the benefits of the lower gearing...JMHO
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Originally Posted by larryd
Rear Sprocket (black) 7055502187
Drive belt 7055502157
I have not be able to get the prices on either items above...They parts and prices are not available...(at least 2 weeks ago when I had my dealer check)
These are the numbers I came up with to put the 89 tooth sprocket and belt on my 2014 RTS...
I think this will really wake up the heavier RT's, especially for those of us running the taller 215/60/15 rear tire, towing a trailer and riding double on mostly mountain roads...Those who ride mostly flat parts of the country and doing interstates would not appreciate the benefits of the lower gearing...JMHO
Converting a 2014/15 RT should be easy. If you have a fat wallet. Buy the F3 NA sprocket and belt. If you don't buy the F3 rim, you are going to have to figure out how to get air in the tire. The belt guard may need some mcgivering to fit maybe.
Last edited by billybovine; 01-04-2015 at 04:44 PM.
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Surprised
I am surprised that nobody knows what is different between a 2013 and a 2014 RT belt requiring a different part number.
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Mis match
I checked with my dealer. He claims the F3 rear pulley has a different pitch. He also claims it won't fit the RT rear wheel. If the rear wheel and pulley fit in the swing arm, then swapping the front pulley might make it work. I have not been able to tear into an F3 yet, but I noticed the larger pulley right off. A ride on one was impressive; I think gearing is a big part of it. I hope a dealer or a shop takes a look at this conversion as a kit.
Joe Meyer
Dealer for the Outlaw/ROLO laser Alignment system
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Originally Posted by cptjam
I checked with my dealer. He claims the F3 rear pulley has a different pitch. He also claims it won't fit the RT rear wheel. If the rear wheel and pulley fit in the swing arm, then swapping the front pulley might make it work. I have not been able to tear into an F3 yet, but I noticed the larger pulley right off. A ride on one was impressive; I think gearing is a big part of it. I hope a dealer or a shop takes a look at this conversion as a kit.
What the dealer told you does not match what I am seeing in the parts catalog.
All Spyders with the 1330 engine has the same front pulley 2014/15 RT, F3 NA and F3 international. The rear sprocket is mixed and matched for all models, depending on color, all years, except F3 NA. That in my mind eliminates the different pitch idea.
The F3 international version has the same rear sprocket as used on RS, ST, RT all years mated with an F3 6 spoke rim. So I conclude the F3 NA sprocket should fit on the regular rim.
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Originally Posted by billybovine
Converting a 2014/15 RT should be easy. If you have a fat wallet. Buy the F3 NA sprocket and belt. If you don't buy the F3 rim, you are going to have to figure out how to get air in the tire. The belt guard may need some mcgivering to fit maybe.
I looked at my RT and I don't see any belt guard problems, but one never know for sure to someone does this...
Are you saying the F3's have the tire valve relocated to the right side of the wheel???
I have some Kurveygirl 85 degree Enkei metal valve stems in stock...these allow you to air the rear tire from the right side....
http://kurveygirl.com/shop/product_i...products_id=72
I don't have a real fat wallet, but I have a figure in mind...I will do all the work myself so my only cost should be the sprocket and belt...
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I would think the larger diameter F3 sprocket would make access to the air valve easier than on an RT, not harder. I see no need to relocate the air valve for this swap.
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Originally Posted by finless
Where did you get your 30T and what spyder model is it on?
Bob
The German one you found is it I have a 2009 rs sm I think the the output shaft spline is the same for an rt as long as it is a v twin but check,again sm only due to nanny it lowers rpm in 5th about 500 rpm ,the 1330 guys got what we all wanted a 6 speed I don't understand wanting to lower the finial drive if you need more two up pulling a trailer drop a gear on the grades , wouldn't it be easier to just put a lower profile rear tire on and bringing that sprocket closer to the road will make the stone in the belt problem worse just look sometime when you pull off the pavement into some soft gravel your belt is almost running in the gravel as you power away
2 happy happy spyders
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Originally Posted by r1100rider
The German one you found is it I have a 2009 rs sm I think the the output shaft spline is the same for an rt as long as it is a v twin but check,again sm only due to nanny it lowers rpm in 5th about 500 rpm ,the 1330 guys got what we all wanted a 6 speed I don't understand wanting to lower the finial drive if you need more two up pulling a trailer drop a gear on the grades , wouldn't it be easier to just put a lower profile rear tire on and bringing that sprocket closer to the road will make the stone in the belt problem worse just look sometime when you pull off the pavement into some soft gravel your belt is almost running in the gravel as you power away
Thanks. I would go for it but the concern I have is what Billy said.
Originally Posted by billybovine
That is the old style sprocket. Only 1 flange and no way to bolt on the damper/flywheel, what ever that thing is. That sproket should bolt on and work.
My front sprocket is the new style and based on reading about it here in very old posts, you want to have the damper and extra flange or you may have problems with shaft spline wear on a RT due to the starting out load. So I think I will pass and live with the higher RPMs unless someone decides to make one with the damper which I doubt will happen.
Billy, sorry to lead your thread astray on this. It just happened I was investigating this when you brought it up.
Bob
2011 RT-S SM5 - Black
Bought June 2013 with 450 miles. 27K on 8-1-2017.
Farkles - DIY Trunk Break Light, HMT Break Light, DIY Mirror Turn Signal Lights, DIY Bluetooth Dongle, DIY iPod Setup, DIY Alarm System Install, Show Chrome front fender / rear saddle bag lights, 4th break light around the trunk, Vented Windshield, Baja Ron Sway Bar, DIY GPS setup, Smooth Spyder, BRP Chrome Mirrors, Adjustable deflectors, Triaxis handlebars, NVB Pegs, Bad Boy Airhorn... More to come
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Originally Posted by jcthorne
I would think the larger diameter F3 sprocket would make access to the air valve easier than on an RT, not harder. I see no need to relocate the air valve for this swap.
If you put a 6 spoke sprocket on a 3 spoke rim. When indexed correctly, 1 of the spokes is going to end up right in front of the valve stem. But since there are 5 possible ways to index the sprocket to the rim. At least one of the positions should give access to the valve. Just may look goofy.
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Originally Posted by finless
Billy, sorry to lead your thread astray on this. It just happened I was investigating this when you brought it up.
Bob
It was kinda related so no problem. It's not like you started a conversation about your dog.
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