I added 3 power plugs, 2 in the frunk and one on the side. Needed a radar det. so used a Rom X-grip and another one for the GPS or phone. I wired them hot with a switch on the dash
The blue screwdriver on the handlebar is my answer to get the cluster out without removing the windshield.
Added speakers to my helmet that connect to my bluetooth on the phone or the GPS.
Waiting for an actuator to electrify the frunk. And waiting for the LEDs to be seen easier. Ordered the HDPE stuff to make a bump plate, will post pixs if that works out.
Last edited by pitzerwm; 12-20-2014 at 10:31 PM.
Reason: add video link
One of the hardest decisions you'll ever face in life is choosing whether to walk away or try harder.
Build a garage for it as no room in the regular garage. Due to limited space, just enough to park it in, will work on it in the other garage. Installed the opener behind the cluster and a push button switch on the dash.
One of the hardest decisions you'll ever face in life is choosing whether to walk away or try harder.
Build a garage for it as no room in the regular garage. Due to limited space, just enough to park it in, will work on it in the other garage. Installed the opener behind the cluster and a push button switch on the dash.
You have been very busy adding some nice accessories. Cool siding on your new garage.
You have been very busy adding some nice accessories. Cool siding on your new garage.
Thanks, I saw something like it and I tried it out in my living room. There was no way that I would try that small pieces on the garage, or maybe ever again. It's like putting a puzzle together without the picture. The middle "art work" is a screen that splits in half to expose the TV.
One of the hardest decisions you'll ever face in life is choosing whether to walk away or try harder.
The weather finally got above freezing and I got my supplies. Being frugal/cheap/whatever, I was sold by other's post about the value of the BumpSkid. Not wanting to spend $200, I tracked down the HDPE needed, figuring "how hard could it be". Well, I'm glad that I only needed one. You can see the pixs below of the process. Not having any CNC unit, just normal tools, it didn't come out a slick as Spyderpops'.
I didn't have an easy way to make the forward brackets so I decided to epoxy a piece of wood in the front and then just screw the front down to the wood. I just finished it and don't plan on running into anything to test that the epoxy will hold the wood in place.
I read in another post that the back of the bumpskid didn't lay up to the bottom of the tupperware. On a 2011 RSS the bracket that holds the original plate is to "tall" for it to eliminate the gap. If you removed the old bracket, and screwed it into bottom of the frunk, you would need to have it stop in front of the anti-sway bar. I also decided not to have the back of the bumpskid to flare out. I did use a round over router bit on the perimeter.
One of the hardest decisions you'll ever face in life is choosing whether to walk away or try harder.
I think that any door lock actuator would work, although JIm used a Spal actuator and it might be better. The frunk locking mech. is elevated and do you need to elevate your actuator. Somehow during this process the key no longer unlocks it. I also added a wire from the mech. routed to the "check oil" panel, just in case the actuator quits working.
Electrically I wired it thru the left turn signal power before the push button gets it's power.
One of the hardest decisions you'll ever face in life is choosing whether to walk away or try harder.
Nothing spectacular just making it mine.
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Originally Posted by pitzerwm
