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  1. #1
    Very Active Member Fat Baxter's Avatar
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    Default How do you know if your front tires are bad?

    OK, I've only had my 2014 RT-S for about three months and 1400 miles, but I'm still concerned about the nervous front end (Yes, I had the alignment laser-checked, it's OK; yes, the tire pressure is at 20 psi.). The beast seems unsettled, like the front end is constantly hunting for a new direction every few microseconds. (Yes, I know about the potential for over-controlling the handlebars, but this happens even if I'm even using the gentle, open-palm control method recommended elsewhere on this forum.) This is in contrast to the video a few posts below by finless, "What it's like to ride a Spyder." I noticed at one point in the video, he had the confidence to take both hands off the handlebars, just for a moment. I don't dare do that.

    At times, on a smooth, straight road, everything comes together and I think this is a keeper. Then a few minutes later, it's as twitchy as a meth addict after 3 double espressos. Needless to day, my machine is not a confidence-builder in the turns. Although I'm s-l-o-w-l-y learning to trust the nanny to keep me out of trouble, it still raises the pucker factor. All this keeps me wondering if I should keep the Spyder, or write it off as something just not for me.

    I have noticed one thing: in right-hand turns, I can generally carve a smooth curve. In left-hand turns, I'm constantly making minor corrections; it doesn't seem to want to hold a curve. So I'm wondering if I have a bad tire or two. I've read on the forum that BRP had a run of some bad front tires a while back. If the consensus is bad tires, how do I convince a skeptical dealer?

    I've also read that the 2014 RTs don't really need a sway bar as badly as earlier models. Is this true? I'm reluctant to make that investment, as I'm still undecided as to whether I'll keep the Spyder.

    Thanks for any feedback here. This forum has been a real help learning about Spyders.

  2. #2
    Very Active Member Dudley's Avatar
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    Try running the front tires with the BRP recommended air pressure. I have found 20 pounds to be way too much. I run 17 in my 2010 RT front tires. Yes, they are not the same size, but 17 is 17 in whatever tire you inflate.
    2008 GS SE5 in 2008
    Traded at 43,000 miles for a left over
    2010 RT SM5 in 2011
    Traded at 57,000 for a left over
    2014 RTS SE6 in 2015, which has 35,000 miles
    Oct 19th, 2017, totaled 2014 RT while killing a Javaline
    Dec 12th, 2017 drove a 2017 F3L home. What an awesome machine!

    Never had any breakdown stranded issues.

  3. #3
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    Default

    I noticed your post in the Smoak video thread and was going to respond about your concern about freehand cruising.

    I can freehand easily for 5-15 seconds or so, while cruising at 55-65mph. It stays straight just like a car would, just eventually drifting slightly one way or the other until I have to gently "correct" it. And I have only the standard factory alignment, no laser tricks yet. I have the original Kenda front tires, and I'm approaching 22,000 miles now.

    So don't give up on your Spyder, it's a great, well-engineered machine. It just obviously has some exasperating problem right now, and the tires would be a good first place to look, I guess.

    Here's an idea: test-ride a known machine that performs properly. See if you can test-swap the front wheels with your RT for a test run...

    Good Luck!

    Edit: I also run 17-18psi in the fronts, and do be careful to have the exact same pressure on each side; this is important.
    Last edited by missouriboy; 11-17-2014 at 09:47 PM. Reason: Pressure & balance
    NEW - 2015 RT Limited SE6 Intense Red Pearl - 07/21/15
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    General Altimax RT43 rear tire (at...17,000 miles) Ran for 36,500 miles
    Michelin Defender.......rear tire (at...53,500 miles) Ran for 60,700 miles
    Riken Raptor HR.........rear tire (at 114,200 miles)
    Vredestein Quatrac 5 front tires (at 70,500 miles, first new fronts!)
    Gear Brake Decelerometer Module

    OLD - 2012 RT Limited SE5 Pearl White - 01/31/13 - Traded in at 32,600 miles.
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    2015 Limited , Intense Red Pearl

  4. #4
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    Are you on asphalt or concrete?
    Also are you trying to stay in the center of the lane?
    if you are riding in the center of the lane the hump will cause the rear tire to drift left or right.
    15 rt , yes Black

  5. #5
    Very Active Member Fat Baxter's Avatar
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    Usually I'm on asphalt, and just trying to stay centered in the lane. It's not a rear end drift issue, it's that the whole front end seems unsettled.

    I'll try lowering the tire pressure next time, though 20 psi is what my manual and the dealer recommend. Should I keep the rear at 28psi?

  6. #6
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    Default Let's see..!!

    as mentioned above the tire pressure and having both tires with the same pressure is important. Balance and true rims can be checked as well. The best is to swap wheels and see if in fact it is in the wheel and or tires. They could also check the dps...hang in there once they get it right you will enjoy it like the many others out there...
    2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black

  7. #7
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    20 psi is the recommended pressure for the 14 front tires. There have been a lot of 2014 RTs with front tire issues like bad belts and cupping which could cause the handling problems you are having.
    2017 F3T-SM6 Squared Away Mirror Wedgies & Alignment
    2014 RTS-SM6 123,600 miles Sold 11/2017
    2014 RTL-SE6 8,600 miles
    2011 RTS-SM5 5,000 miles
    2013 RTS-SM5 burned up with 13,200 miles in 13 weeks
    2010 RTS-SM5 59,148 miles
    2010 RT- 622

  8. #8
    Very Active Member JayBros's Avatar
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    FWIW, I've have my RT-S a month and a half and have 1,883 miles on it. I did have a BajaRon sway bar installed as part of the package as a precautionary investment and I have been blasted by semis on the Interstates and ridden in some severe cross winds, both with absolutely no movement of the Spyder. Would it behave the same way with a stock bar, don't know and didn't want to have to add it later if the stock bar wasn't satisfactory. My decision was based very heavily on the recommendations of a good number of '14RT SL contributors.

    I think it's very hard to tell from the driver's seat in many cases just how a road will make my roadster act. Sometimes it seems to be affected by a road/lane crown that I can't clearly tell is there. I have not yet worked up the stones to go hands off at high speed but very often ride with my paws straight and flat just lightly caressing the grips and it just glides along. My experience runs from brand new concrete and asphalt pavement to absolutely deplorable surfaces.

    I too feel more comfortable on right turns than left but I think that's a function of crown or slope in the radius. I keep both front tires at an exact 20 psi on my gauge, religiously checked weekly.

    Give it some time; you'll grow more familiar with it on each ride. Good luck.
    Artillery lends dignity to what would
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  9. #9
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default THE TIRES ARE THE PROBLEM

    IMHO, before you spend all sorts of money on various fixes and or parts .............I think from what you have said and the History of KENDA tires in General, I wouldn't be at all surprised if your ties are the issue . Either bad belt/s or very bad balance or maybe both................This should be a WARRANTY issue .............Mike
    Last edited by BLUEKNIGHT911; 11-18-2014 at 11:40 AM.

  10. #10
    Very Active Member PW2013STL's Avatar
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    I would go back to your dealer and voice your concerns and request that they test drive yours and also that they let you test drive one of theirs to see if there is a differance. Tires as well as wheels have been known to have been problems and as Mike pointed out this would be a warranty issue that the dealer should take care of.

    Please let us know the outcome.
    2021 Sea To Sky, 2020 RTL

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    but our benefits don't?
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  11. #11
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    If you're making all of those "minor corrections"; you might be trying to over-control the bike... Try relaxing your grip, and let the bike find it's own lead a few times...
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  12. #12
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    Default front end issues

    hi to all I have the 13 RT had what I thought was an over correction problem.....but took red for first service spoke of my concern after riding blur ridge pkwy that was a toufff one dealer in brighton mich told me there was a bullliton about shocks (NOT A RECAL) they orderd new updated ones installed. omg all the diff in the world please get your shocks replaced. no charge all warranty.

  13. #13
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    There were some bad shocks plaguing the 2013s...

    But his, is a 2014.
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  14. #14
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    Default shocks

    have a friend with a 14 same issue, shocks replaced.FIXED.cant hurt to have it checked out

  15. #15
    Very Active Member Highwayman2013's Avatar
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    Just wondering who did the alignment? Was it a ROLO dealer? It sounds like it has some toe out like mine did.
    2016 F3 Limited
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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by PW2013STL View Post
    I would go back to your dealer and voice your concerns and request that they test drive yours and also that they let you test drive one of theirs to see if there is a differance. Tires as well as wheels have been known to have been problems and as Mike pointed out this would be a warranty issue that the dealer should take care of.

    Please let us know the outcome.
    I agree with this information. Until you can get to a dealer try a parking lot. Usually they are kinda flat so surace is not a factor. then see what happens.
    Good Luck, love my 2010 RT.
    Oldmanzues

  17. #17
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    Default tire ressure

    I also have a 2014 RT that acted squirrely on different roads.The local dealer test rode it and said to check the pressure.He put 22 in each tire and it made all the difference in the world.
    Laser alignment will come in the spring.
    Ride safe!!

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    IMHO, before you spend all sorts of money on various fixes and or parts .............I think from what you have said and the History of KENDA tires in General, I wouldn't be at all surprised if your ties are the issue . Either bad belt/s or very bad balance or maybe both................This should be a WARRANTY issue .............Mike

    Balance is a very good point. I don't think they do a very good job of balancing at the factory.
    2017 F3T-SM6 Squared Away Mirror Wedgies & Alignment
    2014 RTS-SM6 123,600 miles Sold 11/2017
    2014 RTL-SE6 8,600 miles
    2011 RTS-SM5 5,000 miles
    2013 RTS-SM5 burned up with 13,200 miles in 13 weeks
    2010 RTS-SM5 59,148 miles
    2010 RT- 622

  19. #19
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    Default Try this on 2-lane blacktop roads with depressions from heavy vehicles

    My stock 2014 Limited Spyder drove like a snowmobile on 2-lane blacktop roads with significant depressions in each lane from the wheels of heavy vehicles.

    Then, I discovered a major improvement in steering/handling by merely putting my front-left wheel near the center line. This automatically positions the front-right wheel on the crown/high spot between the depressions. Rear wheel travels in the leftmost depression.

    Definitely an improvement. For the record, I inflate my front-tires at 20-PSI & rear at 28-PSI.

  20. #20
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    During my pre-purchase research I rode two 2014 RTS SE6 demos, both on the same roads. One was squirrely as all get out and the other was rock solid like it was on a rail. The salesman said it was my imagination and it almost killed the sale. So, any can have problems, but they can be fixed by the hands of a good tech.

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