Loading my RT-S in the bed of my Short bed F-250 Super Duty
I know there are other post on this subject, but they all say you can't do what I did....
I'm hauling my boat to Florida this week. I would like to take the Spyder and the boat. Problem is I don't want to drive the Spyder 600 miles, and I can't pull double trailers with my boat trailer. (Aluminum)
So, I decided to load the Spyder in my pickup, and tow the boat. Everything I read online shows loading the Spyder backwards with the front wheels on the tailgate. This will not work with my boat trailer. Need the tail gate up, and I really don't want to take the windshield on and off every time we stop. I plan to visit friends alone my route requiring the Spyder to be loaded and unloaded 3 times during the trip.
I need to load the Spyder facing forward, and it be relatively easy to load and unload. I also have a tight budget. Oh, and to all the guys that said you "can't", please read on lol.
The fact that several people stated "it can't be done" probably helped make this happen.
I started drawing on a piece of paper a crude idea of a way to lift the Spyder into the back of my pickup. The bed is 52" wide, the Spyder is 51 1/2" wide. Too tight for my comfort, so I changed my plan to set the Spyder in top of the bed rails.
I designed and constructed a 4 point linkage attached to a wood 4X4 tee frame. Installed a winch to pull the loader into the truck, and another to pull it out. All of this is attached to my existing 5th wheel hitch rails.
After 3 weekends of construction I tested the loader. See pictures.
Cost:
Northern tool has 2000 warn winche for $99.00, The loading winch I used was given to me by my son, I purchased another Warn 1700 on Craigslist for $65.00.
The pulleys used for the block & tackle were $6 each at Northern Tool and I bought 10 of them, so another $60.00
I bought a trailer fender at Northern Tool for $16.00, cut it in half to use on both sides for the front wheel supports.
Spend about 20.00 in misc. bolts and pins.
Grand total I have $161.00 cash invested, and probably 40 hours labor, and another 10 hours design time.
I already had the wood, misc. angle iron, aluminum plate, misc. bolts, screws, nuts, and some eyelet connections. Could have been purchased for $100 or less.
Trial and error:
I used a 4 part block and tackle to pull the rig into the pickup, and a 6 part to pull it out due to that being a smaller winch. I used some cheap variety store pulleys on my trial run and the weight crushed the cheap aluminum pulleys. Picked up 6 more heavy duty ones today to replace them.
I added a vertical support under the rear shock to gain a bit of height in the rear to allow the tailgate to close.
The rear wheel will be strapped to the Reese hitch. Both front tires are strapped to the 4X4 and then again strapped down to the tie downs inside the bed.
I'm using some heavy duty Reese aluminum ramps, that I drilled holes in to bolt on the underside of the wheel support (fender cut in half).
This Thursday is my last work day to complete the build, and then off to sunny Florida with my boat and my 2014 circuit yellow Spyder.
Here are a few more pictures of the loaded Spyder, ride height, and a close up of the lifter.
Originally Posted by James & Julie
I know there are other post on this subject, but they all say you can't do what I did....
I'm hauling my boat to Florida this week. I would like to take the Spyder and the boat. Problem is I don't want to drive the Spyder 600 miles, and I can't pull double trailers with my boat trailer. (Aluminum)
So, I decided to load the Spyder in my pickup, and tow the boat. Everything I read online shows loading the Spyder backwards with the front wheels on the tailgate. This will not work with my boat trailer. Need the tail gate up, and I really don't want to take the windshield on and off every time we stop. I plan to visit friends alone my route requiring the Spyder to be loaded and unloaded 3 times during the trip.
I need to load the Spyder facing forward, and it be relatively easy to load and unload. I also have a tight budget. Oh, and to all the guys that said you "can't", please read on lol.
The fact that several people stated "it can't be done" probably helped make this happen.
I started drawing on a piece of paper a crude idea of a way to lift the Spyder into the back of my pickup. The bed is 52" wide, the Spyder is 51 1/2" wide. Too tight for my comfort, so I changed my plan to set the Spyder in top of the bed rails.
I designed and constructed a 4 point linkage attached to a wood 4X4 tee frame. Installed a winch to pull the loader into the truck, and another to pull it out. All of this is attached to my existing 5th wheel hitch rails.
After 3 weekends of construction I tested the loader. See pictures.
Cost:
Northern tool has 2000 warn winche for $99.00, The loading winch I used was given to me by my son, I purchased another Warn 1700 on Craigslist for $65.00.
The pulleys used for the block & tackle were $6 each at Northern Tool and I bought 10 of them, so another $60.00
I bought a trailer fender at Northern Tool for $16.00, cut it in half to use on both sides for the front wheel supports.
Spend about 20.00 in misc. bolts and pins.
Grand total I have $161.00 cash invested, and probably 40 hours labor, and another 10 hours design time.
I already had the wood, misc. angle iron, aluminum plate, misc. bolts, screws, nuts, and some eyelet connections. Could have been purchased for $100 or less.
Trial and error:
I used a 4 part block and tackle to pull the rig into the pickup, and a 6 part to pull it out due to that being a smaller winch. I used some cheap variety store pulleys on my trial run and the weight crushed the cheap aluminum pulleys. Picked up 6 more heavy duty ones today to replace them.
I added a vertical support under the rear shock to gain a bit of height in the rear to allow the tailgate to close.
The rear wheel will be strapped to the Reese hitch. Both front tires are strapped to the 4X4 and then again strapped down to the tie downs inside the bed.
I'm using some heavy duty Reese aluminum ramps, that I drilled holes in to bolt on the underside of the wheel support (fender cut in half).
This Thursday is my last work day to complete the build, and then off to sunny Florida with my boat and my 2014 circuit yellow Spyder.
To be honest, Yes I would change it to steel. Consider this a proto type, and I really only need to use it 3 times on this trip. I have an enclosed trailer as seen in the pictures. Two driving factors were the need to haul both the boat and the Spyder, and the guys that said it couldn't be done. The latter made it fun too...
If I were to make this for everyday use, there are a few changes:
1. Steel mainframe. I used a new piece of non treated No.2 structural pine 4x4 which gave me the versatility to drill, cut, and screw things to it with ease. A light gauge steel frame would be leaner and stronger.
2. I would change the winches out for hydraulics. One system that can push and pull. I used the winches due to availability, cost, and getting the first one for free, along with the second for $65.00.
3. Lastly a sub frame that would quick connect to the hitch rails. I have a homemade ball hitch adapter that was perfect for the proto type device. Heavy duty, and wide enough for my design needs. All of the parts can be removed via hitch pins used on a tractor 3 point hitch, or removing a few bolts. The only thing welded to the hitch are two 7/8" hitch pins.
I plan to shoot video of the loading and unloading in Florida this weekend. I'll upload that when I get back.
Thanks to everyone for the positive feedback.
James
Originally Posted by Bob Denman
You used a 4x4 as the backbone of your support structure? If you could; would you replace that with steel?
where there is a will there is a way and you have proven this quite nicely. Even for a prototype with a little paint it would look pro. Congrats on doing what they say can't be done...
Gene and Ilana De Laney Mt. Helix, California
2012 RS sm5
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
I did consider the weight. My truck is actually a F-350. List 250 to avoid the dually questions. With that said the weight is centered in the bed, tied to the Reese hitch in the back, and tied to the bed tie downs in the front. It's not leaving the 8000 pound Super Duty pickup truck. Add the 6500 pound trailer on the hitch ball, and she will ride like a Cadillac.
I moved it around the yard only tied to the lift, and it rocked some, but the suspension handled most of it. By only tying the front wheels, the suspension is free to move as if you were on the road with it. The rear is supported on the rear shock allowing for a small amount there too.
In a frontal collision, it's gonna be ugly, but that would go for it being in the enclosed trailer as well.
Not too worried about stopping as the boat will assist in that, I will watch the sharp turns.
Thanks for the questions, and compliments guys. This is a great site.
Originally Posted by Cruzr Joe
Question: Any type of concern because of the weight of the Spyder being so high if going into a hard or sudden turn?
That's a really cool idea. How long does it take you to load/unload?
I agree, your fine with the truck. The spyder doesn't weigh THAT much. A SD won't even know its there...
I'm still testing it to some degree, but loaded and ready to roll 20 minutes complete if all goes well.
It takes 5 minutes to set the ramps, and bring the loader to the tail gates. Drive up the ramps, set park brake, crawl off at the steep angle lol.
Once on the loader, strap both wheels down, and remove ramps. Install safety strap on under side. (Just incase strap)
Install the support blocks, and push the button. Lifts into truck to the balance point in 30 seconds or so. Then switch to other winch and lower it down to rest on top of the fuel tank. Loaded.
Add two straps in front, one in back. Hit the road.
If this were more frequently used, I could add clamps for the front wheels, and an auto locking device in the front and rear to speed it up. At this point I only need to use it 3 times.
I do enjoy the build more than the use. lol
James
Originally Posted by DrewNJ
That's a really cool idea. How long does it take you to load/unload?
I agree, your fine with the truck. The spyder doesn't weigh THAT much. A SD won't even know its there...
Me thinks it would have been cheaper and much less risky to ride the Spyder the 600 miles. The great "Swamie" see's some danger in your future. LOL
Jack
All my life I wanted to be somebody, now I realize I should have been more specific.
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Loading my RT-S in the bed of my Short bed F-250 Super Duty
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Wow!!
More pictures
Originally Posted by James & Julie
Good ole American ingenuity. Love it !
Nice job.Have a safe trip to Florida 
2013 Viper Red RT S-SE5 All 48 states on a Gold Wing now I'm working on getting all on a 
