Ryding Tips

[MRH]

One of the things that we don't discuss a lot here is how to actually ride our Spyders. Yes, we talk about when to shift, but there is a lot that is still left out.

I was recently riding with another Spyder rider (most of the time I'm with motorcycles) and watching him on his RS, he moved his body on the seat to the inside of each curve when we riding fast. I tried it on my RT, and was surprised that it really did seem to make a difference. I had no idea.

I've also taken the StreetMasters one day workshop (we were about half Spyders) and learned a lot about taking curves and where to be on the road.

So, I'd like to find out from other riders what they find makes a good ride. The what's, when's, how's and why's of good Spyder riding technique.

[4 MARIE]

I guess you can do the "road racer" hang off if you want. But for me personally, I use just a modest head and shoulders weight transfer to the inside. You are really just counteracting the centrifugal force trying to toss your body off to the outside. I will admit that my movement is no where near as serious LOOKING as the other.

Also, since you asked, and I don't see it talked about here very much. Your Spyder, or 2 wheeler for that matter, will always turn better under acceleration, or at least some type of forward impulse. Nothing handles the curves worse than an off-throttle, or coasting machine. SO much better to set up for your corner at a safe rate, and then accelerate out of it.

[PistonBlown]

I move my body on the seat when riding around corners and also tend to lean forward a bit more as well to keep the weight on the inside front wheel - idea is to keep it on the ground and stop nanny kicking in.

However to be honest I also do it for a more involved ride, it's what I've always done on my motorbikes so feels right (though obviously the body position is different).

The RS seat is sloped on either side so it lends itself to this sort of riding. RT and ST seats less so.

[YIRYDE]

There are some riding tips in this thread. http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...-Spyder-owners

[joebryanjr]

Just like 2 wheels, remember SLPR
Slow before the corve
Look through and past the curve
Press the handle bars
Roll on the throttled as you approach the apex of the curve.

[Bob Denman]

on the Course, and I'm gald that you picked up some valuable tips along the way!

[Flanker]

Like I stole it (GTA V School of High Performance Spyder Riding).

[PrairieSpyder]

On a tight curve I want to take fast, I move my butt to the inside, and lean forward a bit. On any curves, though I make sure my feet are firmly on the boards and shift my body weight from as low as possible. It's like riding a horse, I use my legs to stay on and my arms and hands can be independent to steer.

[daveinva]

Disclaimer: I have an RS with Fox shocks, better sway bar, and thanks to an Ultimate Seat, risers, and footboards vice pegs, my ergos are closer to "standard" than sport, which on the RS *really* helps in the corners (especially the footboards-- it's dramatically easier to shift weight on the RS with footboards compared to the stock peg position).

Here's what I've found IME:

-- At NORMAL speeds in NORMAL curves/turns, no weight shift is necessary. It doesn't hurt, and doing so may make you feel more comfortable, but I don't find that it's really needed. Just look through the turn and accelerate out of it, you're good.

-- At FAST speeds in NORMAL curves, weight shift *still* isn't necessary as the Spyder is actually more stable than it feels, i.e. the rider's comfort is the limiting factor, not physics. That said, shifting weight forward and to the inside is most definitely far more comfortable-- and fun!-- than not doing so.

-- At FAST speeds in SHARP curves, weight shift is necessary both for comfort AND counter-acting the Nanny. I find that if I'm not hanging off to the inside, drunken monkey style, the odds of the Nanny kicking in mid-corner are increased. However, I honestly *rarely* trip the RS Nanny anymore, all because of the mix of weight shifting, sway bar, shocks, etc.

-- At FAST speeds in SHARP *turns*, weight shift is absolutely necessary to keep that inside wheel planted. Note, when I say fast here, I'm talking relatively speaking, not even extra-legal speeds: any Spyder rider is able to EASILY lift the inside wheel in a sharp turn even at parking lot speeds, 5-10 mph, particularly if you're accelerating into the turn. If you've never done this, it's easy to try it: just find an empty lot, lean your self to the inside, turn the bars full lock, and roll on the throttle. Very soon after, you'll lift that front wheel and trip the Nanny, guaranteed.

There's probably a nice geometric / calculus equation that can demonstrate the speed / wheel angle combination that will trip the Nanny. Again, I'll rarely trip the Nanny racing through the twisties (outliers excepted: off-camber roads, grooves, etc.), but a slow, sharp turn can really push our trike to the edge.

Bottom line: In most situations, shifting weight in a corner is usually most advised in order to make yourself feel like you're not going to be launched off the Spyder like a lawn dart, but is often unnecessary to prevent actually upsetting the Spyder vehicle on the road, i.e. your weight isn't really going to do all that much to counteract wheel lift as you might think.

That said, when you the rider are comfortable, you're less likely to do anything to upset the Spyder, such as chopping the throttle in the middle of a turn, not steering the bars over far enough, etc. Thus shifting your weight into a turn will make you feel more planted, and thus improve your ability to navigate the corner at a speed greater than you otherwise would.

(Oh, and lastly: as noted above, your throttle is just as much a control mechanism as your handlebars, i.e. when and where you apply throttle in a turn significantly contributes to how fast you can take that turn. "Slow in, fast out" works as well on the Spyder as it does on two-wheels).

Safe riding!