How to remove switch cluster

[SAR41]

I'm trying to remove the 4 switch cluster above the glove box and below the handle bar. I'm installing the BPR Bluetooth dongle so I have all the Tupperware removed from the right side and now some from the left side, I have removed the pop in plastic keepers on both sides. I can lift both sides but there seems to be something holding it down the middle of the switch area. I removed the blank plug in the middle of the switches and can not see what's holding it down. I have a switch on order to hook up two garage door openers and plan on installing it in the blank spot in the middle but I need to get the panel removed so I can rewire what's there to power the new switch. Any help would be appreciated.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Four bolts into the frame below the center unit. The pop rivets help to take it apart after you have it off the frame.

[NautiBrit]

The wiring to those switches comes out on the left side and is held in place with a tie. Cut the tie and push as much slack as you can get up towards the switches. It's tight but you should get enough to unclip the switches from the plug end.

[SAR41]

That gives me a couple things to try in the morning.

[Doc - Riverside]

These pictures should help

Right Side





Left Side




How to remove the connector body.



Any questions see PM

[SAR41]

This will make it easy. Headed out to get started on it in a little while.

[Cruzr Joe]

Good job, Doc

Cruzr Joe

[zuni]

You would think that there is an easier way for them to have attached the switch cluster by itself. Why not just make the switch panel snap into the rest of the cover plate. Would have made it much easier to replace or change the switches. The other photos show how to remove everything as a unit. Unfortunately the switch panel is attached to the rest by a hidden pop rivet that is only accessible by removing everything else.

[Highwayman2013]

I had mine apart in the spring that is a weird place for that pop rivet, it did not go back in.

[SAR41]

Once I saw the pictures it was easy. I was trying to remove just the switch panel, which as mentioned above should have been how it was designed. But NO WHY MAKE IT EASY!!

[BernardD]

I had mine apart in the spring that is a weird place for that pop rivet, it did not go back in.

I am trying to remove this. Unfortunaltely I do not find any video on how to do this.
What do you mean by « it did not go back in »?
is it because you did not put it back or it was not possible to put it back?

[zuni]

I think he just decided not to put it back. I did after I put in the new switch.

CJ JAX

I am trying to remove this. Unfortunaltely I do not find any video on how to do this.
What do you mean by « it did not go back in »?
is it because you did not put it back or it was not possible to put it back?

[Highwayman2013]

I am trying to remove this. Unfortunaltely I do not find any video on how to do this.
What do you mean by « it did not go back in »?
is it because you did not put it back or it was not possible to put it back?

I didn't put it back in.

[INfox]

I know this is an old post, but today we tried to remove the switch cluster panel, but ended up with the same problem. It looks like it would come off, but the switches or something in that area holds it up. Also, the Glovebox compartment won't let the bottom part to come off as well.
Do you remember what was on the pictures posted by Doc - Riverside? They are no longer available.
Thank you in advance

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

See following post. It has more info than the original one in this spot!

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I know this is an old post, but today we tried to remove the switch cluster panel, but ended up with the same problem. It looks like it would come off, but the switches or something in that area holds it up. Also, the Glovebox compartment won't let the bottom part to come off as well.
Do you remember what was on the pictures posted by Doc - Riverside? They are no longer available.
Thank you in advance

Do you have a service manual? If not you really need to get one. Jobs like this are much easier when you can refer to the manual.

As I remember from taking mine off a couple of years ago, there are four screws and six rivets holding the glove box/cluster assembly on the frame. Two of them are back up under a ways and hard to see. One on the right and one on the left. You need a light to shine under the glove box from the side to see them. IIRC the switch cluster is fastened to the glove box with some screws that you can't get to until you lift the entire unit off and turn it over. You have to disconnect the harness going to the switches. I think it's on the left side. It's not real difficult once you find and remove the culprit screws! You also need to disconnect the glove box latch release cable.

[INfox]

Thank you IdahoMtnSpyder. I found the screws, removed them and also the glovebox latch (very carefully). Snapped couple zip-ties on the left side and disconnected couple wires on the right side - I found a video Spyder RT Triaxis Handlebar Install - Part 1 of 3 by Finless Bob - I made sure I don’t make any mistakes. The Glovebox compartment with the Switch cluster panel came off nicely.
With this I would like to thank Finless Bob as well.

Some pictures I made today while removing above mentioned.

PS: I do have the service manual, but searching through 1579 pages without a properly working word search is very time consuming. I do have the latest and greatest Win10 and AdobeAcrobat Reader. We were looking for some scheme with the wiring identified to no avail.

[LeftCoast]

Great stuff thanks for sharing with the community!

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

PS: I do have the service manual, but searching through 1579 pages without a properly working word search is very time consuming. I do have the latest and greatest Win10 and AdobeAcrobat Reader. We were looking for some scheme with the wiring identified to no avail.

Sometimes you have to be ingenious in pulling words out of the air to use in the search! BRP tech writers don't always adhere to convention when naming objects. I don't remember right off hand what they call a microswitch, but it's not microswitch. Then the name is different between the service text and the parts list! I usually find a chapter title in the first go at a search, and then go from there in a series of word jumps. In this case I used glove box as the search term.

[Revalden]

I had mine apart in the spring that is a weird place for that pop rivet, it did not go back in.

Same here, I now another extra PPR.

[INfox]

We decided to remove the Frunk today as we couldn't find switched wires to tap to for my new FZ-1. No, I didn't have the front optional Accessory plug available and the dealer didn't install battery tender plug as many of you mention. It wasn't an easy decision, but I like to learn about my trike and I am not afraid do to things if I have instructions or video available.

For those, who don't have the optional plug available in the Frunk, it is not easy to find it. It is hidden behind an up the battery and the wire is zip-tied up to be hidden. The plugs need to be pulled out. Regular owners as me will not find it, if they won't take the Frunk off. I am attaching pic'se of how it looks like. The repair manual isn't showing the location either, we have to find it by ourselves.
Removed Frunk.jpg
If anyone wants me to take pic's of some wiring as it is, I'll be glad to make some before we put the frunk back up.
A video on how to remove the Tupperware and frunk is here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nw5atKHlmp4 by It's Yours. OWN IT
or here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x1tBebocmEQ by Shawn Smoak (this video doesn’t show the two screws on the bottom, the first one does.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

For those, who don't have the optional plug available in the Frunk, it is not easy to find it. It is hidden behind an up the battery and the wire is zip-tied up to be hidden. The plugs need to be pulled out. Regular owners as me will not find it, if they won't take the Frunk off. I am attaching pic'se of how it looks like. The repair manual isn't showing the location either, we have to find it by ourselves.

If you do decide to install the frunk accessory plug just know that getting the waterproofing boot over the end of the socket will prompt some blue air. You have to put the socket into the frunk wall first and tighten the lock ring. You can at least plug the wires onto the socket before you poke it through the frunk wall, but make sure the lock ring is on the harness first. It has to be on the back side. Then you have to work blind and in very tight quarters to get the lock ring on and the boot slipped over the socket. I didn't do it, but you might consider splicing in a 6" to 10" wire into the accessory harness. That way you can get it all connected and the boot on before the frunk is up tight against the frame.

You can buy an accessory plug on Amazon or eBay that is the same as the OEM for less $$.

[INfox]

IdahoMtnSpyder, thank for the advice, I appreciate it.