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  1. #1
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    Default Underside plastic panels

    I recall reading about it on the forum...... I cannot find it now.

    Is there any issue with leaving the underside plastic panel off when I reassemble the right side of the trike? Any advantage? This is the one behind the radiator... Not the cupped deflector. It seems to be there to keep road crud from getting kicked up onto the engine.

    If I do leave it off I assume I should keep the bolts in the holes to minimize stuff getting into the lower frame tube?

  2. #2
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    What year and model bike do you have?
    (That always makes it easier to answer questions...)
    I've never heard of any downside to removing the panels; I popped them off of my 2010 RT, and rode for 18,000 miles with them in my garage.
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  3. #3
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    I guess I need to update the Signature.

    2010 RT SE5.

    Thank you!!

  4. #4
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    I admire your taste in fine bikes...
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  5. #5
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    Take them off. They are not there to keep crud out of the engine. They effectively trap hot air in the engine compartment. Both you and your Spyder will run cooler with these off. I have 35,000 miles on mine with these off. No problem.
    Shop Ph: 423-609-7588 (M-F, 8-5, Eastern Time)

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  6. #6
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    I will. I already have the oil side panel off. I will leave the right side one off in reassembly from changing the failed oil pressure switch.

  7. #7
    Registered Users GMAN9's Avatar
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    Default Process for taking off panels

    How tough is it to take off the panels underneath the Spyder. I have the CAT bypass which has really helped with the heat....would love to take the bottom panels off to see if it helps even further. Would like to get some detail instructions or pictures to help in the process of removing them.

    Thanks,
    2013 ST-S Circuit Yellow Metallic

  8. #8
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    You should buy a shop manual...
    There was a change for 2013, that makes it a little more involved.
    They're available on EBay for pretty darn CHEEP!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  9. #9
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    Mine are two extra bolts in addition to some in the side panel removal.

    My shop manual is a great resource. Y'all are better.
    The current rides:
    2010 Spyder RT SE5
    2007 VTX1800R
    1999 Valkyrie Interstate

  10. #10
    Registered Users GMAN9's Avatar
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    Default Hmmm

    Yes...I need to invest into a shop manual....but that won't help me this weekend....so I need to take off the side panels to remove the bottom panels? That sounds counter intuitive! I had it up on some ramps a few weekends ago looking around...it was a liitle hard to tell what holds it on.....looked like some screws and maybe some push in pressure clips?
    2013 ST-S Circuit Yellow Metallic

  11. #11
    Very Active Member JKMSPYDER's Avatar
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    Default Underside panels

    By your avatar photo it looks like you have an ST. You do not need to remove any side panels to remove the bottom panels. Each panel has one screw and two plastic push pins. Remove these then put the screws back in. Should take about 5 minutes per panel.
    2020 F3 Ltd

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    2013 ST-S retired 1/9/16 at 25,061 miles
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  12. #12
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    Sorry. I have my side panels off to do some work.

    It is just two more bolts...............
    The current rides:
    2010 Spyder RT SE5
    2007 VTX1800R
    1999 Valkyrie Interstate

  13. #13
    Registered Users GMAN9's Avatar
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    Default Thanks!

    Perfect! Will jump on it this weekend.

    Thanks,!
    2013 ST-S Circuit Yellow Metallic

  14. #14
    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default Here's what I did..!!

    20140508_113120.jpg you can run without them and that will help the cooling but there are things under there I would like to keep protected so the holes work almost as well...
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  15. #15
    Very Active Member ulflyer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GMAN9 View Post
    How tough is it to take off the panels underneath the Spyder. I have the CAT bypass which has really helped with the heat....would love to take the bottom panels off to see if it helps even further. Would like to get some detail instructions or pictures to help in the process of removing them.

    Thanks,
    Best as I remember, on my '11 Rt, it was a couple pins and one pesky bolt. I pulled the paned down and cut the plastic tab where it was bolted to. Did this with both underneath panels. No issues with 32k when I traded it. Get under there and you'll see its nothing hard about it.
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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by JKMSPYDER View Post
    By your avatar photo it looks like you have an ST. You do not need to remove any side panels to remove the bottom panels. Each panel has one screw and two plastic push pins. Remove these then put the screws back in. Should take about 5 minutes per panel.
    Aren't the screws covered, or at least obscured, by the oil cover and it's opposite number? Still, they're easy enough to remover - three clips on the oil side, three screws on the other. The pushpins are two on each side attaching the panel to the centre spar. Of course, once you've done that they will still feel firmly attached, because they are clipped on to the frame - just pull them off! The right one has a drain pipe in the middle of it (fuel overflow?). I don't know if it needs tethering as I've never thought about it...it's a bit too cold here for overheating!

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chupaca View Post
    20140508_113120.jpg you can run without them and that will help the cooling but there are things under there I would like to keep protected so the holes work almost as well...
    This might even be the BEST option!!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

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