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  1. #1
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    Default Does it ride better or less swaying if we stiff/move up the suspension one notch?

    Hi Y People...quick question, does a Spyder (2014 RT Limited) handles better (does not sways to sides as much) if you stiff the supension?...I think noticed yesterday that after I changed the suspension one notch higher to hard (from mid to one) did not sway as much. Was it my imagination or when it stiffs up drives better?...thanks all for your comments/feedback! PS: bf anyone asks, YEP I got the sway bar already from Ron pending arrival and installation... :-)
    CARPE DIEM - Live and Let LIVE...
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    Very Active Member ARtraveler's Avatar
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    I have always had my adjustable set up on the 2nd highest position with the RT's. Never added a sway bar or other than OEM shocks.

    For me, the handles just fine.

    Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.

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  3. #3
    Very Active Member BikerDoc's Avatar
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    I think you will find that when you stiffen the suspension that it will handle tighter (especially on corners) but not necessarily offer as smooth of ride. I added the sway bar without stiffening the suspension and it handles great and rides like a dream. I really only feel the need for the sway bar in strong cross winds not in cornering
    220,000 Mile Spyder Ryder, IBA Premier member #59352, Saddlesore 1000 (11), Bun Burner 1500 (3), Saddlesore 2000 (2), Bun Burner Gold, MILEEATER SILVER

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by BikerDoc View Post
    I think you will find that when you stiffen the suspension that it will handle tighter (especially on corners) but not necessarily offer as smooth of ride. I added the sway bar without stiffening the suspension and it handles great and rides like a dream. I really only feel the need for the sway bar in strong cross winds not in cornering
    Thanks for your comments, must be that I am not used to on riding a Spyder since I have been riding regular bikes. I do feel that moves side to side or ¨sways¨ as I interpret it. The roads that I have been mostly are two way around small hills with nice turns (some sharp some, not. When I turned, passed a car or the road was not leveled it would sway or feel that would go to the lower level side. Now, am I missing something? Already have 1100 miles in less than a month or so and I do not ride it everyday, would think that got used to it. But to ME, changing the electronic suspension one more bar from mid point made the difference, am I crazy or what?...jejeje
    CARPE DIEM - Live and Let LIVE...
    NOW and loving it.... 2014 SpYder RT Limited Silver
    My daily commuter: 2014 BMW RNineT
    EX BMW Fiasco: 2014 R1200RT-LC (thanks to ¨her¨ now I truly ¨RYDE¨)
    LOOK INTO MY EYES......

    Farkles:
    Bajaron Anti-Sway Bar (A must have!)
    Bump Skid Plate (too many bumps in México)
    Stainless Steel Kott Grilles (was collecting too many insects)
    Missing Belt Guard (not missing nothing now...)

  5. #5
    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default Si senor..!!

    The stiffer the tighter. It will handle better. Once you install the swaybar you can go back if you want the comfort. But to answer your question..it is not your imagination. It helps the handling but makes it a stiffer (bumpier) ryde...
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  6. #6
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    When you encounter a situation that causes the "swaying", bring your knees in against the tank. It'll hold you steady in the seat, and you'll feel a lot more comfortable.
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

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    Very Active Member robmorg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by akspyderman View Post
    I have always had my adjustable set up on the 2nd highest position with the RT's. Never added a sway bar or other than OEM shocks.

    For me, the handles just fine.
    The beefier BajaRon sway bar made a very noticeable difference for me, but the OEM sway bar and shocks are probably fine for you. It is we big guys that [unfortunately] need the extra stiffness. I would probably benefit from upgrading the front shocks as well, but I've spent enough money on my Spyder for a while.
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  8. #8
    Very Active Member ulflyer's Avatar
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    Default Stiffen the Front Shocks

    I stiffened my fronts and it made a LOT of difference on uneven pavement. Heres a cheap way to do it and You won't have to
    pay $800 for Elkas.

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  9. #9
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    ...Just be careful about "Coil-Bind"...
    Please make sure that you still have full suspension travel available...
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  10. #10
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    Think of it this way. If you removed the shocks and installed a solid bar in their place, how much lean, sway, dive would you get?

    ZERO!

    But your dentures would fall out and your head would hurt from your eyeballs bouncing around. Think, riding on a lawnmower or tractor over bumpy ground.

    Ergo, the hydraulic shock was invented.

    So, if the shock spring is set very soft, your ride is very comfy, but you sacrifice handling in the form of a great deal of lean, sway and dive. Though you can reduce lean, etc., with the spring setting adjustment, that is not primarily what the spring adjustment is for. Spring adjustment is provided to maintain ride height when you load the Spyder, not to fix lean issues.

    You can stiffen up your shock springs to counter this unwanted lean, (effectively getting closer to the steel bar scenario), but you'll sacrifice some ride comfort. The purpose of a shock is to reach that happy medium of reasonably good ride and reasonably good handling.

    But shocks can provide only so much of either. Any improvement in one aspect is always at the expense of the other.

    So, how can we achieve more of what we want (better handling) and still have a great ride? Better shocks (i.e. Elka) can provide this to a certain degree. But one component is rarely the complete answer, especially when it comes to suspension.

    The Sway Bar was invented, (or, more accurately, the Anti-Sway bar), to assist the shocks in resisting sway, lean and dive without increasing harshness of ride. Because the sway bar has no affect on the suspension (shocks/springs included) when running straight, you can maintain your cushy spring setting without the negative aspects encountered in turns, crosswinds, etc. Because when you turn, the sway bar jumps in and takes care of the unwanted sway, lean and dive.

    So, you can have your cake and eat it too!
    Last edited by BajaRon; 09-02-2014 at 10:09 AM.
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  11. #11
    Very Active Member BikerDoc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    When you encounter a situation that causes the "swaying", bring your knees in against the tank. It'll hold you steady in the seat, and you'll feel a lot more comfortable.
    Holding your knees tighter and leaning into the curves both overcome the impact of momentum which sometimes causes a swaying sensation
    220,000 Mile Spyder Ryder, IBA Premier member #59352, Saddlesore 1000 (11), Bun Burner 1500 (3), Saddlesore 2000 (2), Bun Burner Gold, MILEEATER SILVER

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by BajaRon View Post
    Think of it this way. If you removed the shocks and installed a solid bar in their place, how much lean, sway, dive would you get?

    ZERO!

    But your dentures would fall out and your head would hurt from your eyeballs bouncing around. Think, riding on a lawnmower or tractor over bumpy ground.

    Ergo, the hydraulic shock was invented.

    So, if the shock spring is set very soft, your ride is very comfy, but you sacrifice handling in the form of a great deal of lean, sway and dive. Though you can reduce lean, etc., with the spring setting adjustment, that is not primarily what the spring adjustment is for. Spring adjustment is provided to maintain ride height when you load the Spyder, not to fix lean issues.

    You can stiffen up your shock springs to counter this unwanted lean, (effectively getting closer to the steel bar scenario), but you'll sacrifice some ride comfort. The purpose of a shock is to reach that happy medium of reasonably good ride and reasonably good handling.

    But shocks can provide only so much of either. Any improvement in one aspect is always at the expense of the other.

    So, how can we achieve more of what we want (better handling) and still have a great ride? Better shocks (i.e. Elka) can provide this to a certain degree. But one component is rarely the complete answer, especially when it comes to suspension.

    The Sway Bar was invented, (or, more accurately, the Anti-Sway bar), to assist the shocks in resisting sway, lean and dive without increasing harshness of ride. Because the sway bar has no affect on the suspension (shocks/springs included) when running straight, you can maintain your cushy spring setting without the negative aspects encountered in turns, crosswinds, etc. Because when you turn, the sway bar jumps in and takes care of the unwanted sway, lean and dive.

    So, you can have your cake and eat it too!
    Well stated and by combining the two (swaybar and Elkas), you can come very close to as good as the Spyder gets. I also personally think that an overlooked element is tire sidewall stiffness. You can overcome this to a certain degree by upping the tire pressure slightly (in the range of 25 on the 2014's), but the best result is going to come with a stiffer sidewall tire that resists rolling into the curve. Of course, this is also at the expense of ride softness.

  13. #13
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    Excellent info guys, I just can't wait to get my Bajaron... Possibly will get the Elkas too depending on the piggy bank...
    CARPE DIEM - Live and Let LIVE...
    NOW and loving it.... 2014 SpYder RT Limited Silver
    My daily commuter: 2014 BMW RNineT
    EX BMW Fiasco: 2014 R1200RT-LC (thanks to ¨her¨ now I truly ¨RYDE¨)
    LOOK INTO MY EYES......

    Farkles:
    Bajaron Anti-Sway Bar (A must have!)
    Bump Skid Plate (too many bumps in México)
    Stainless Steel Kott Grilles (was collecting too many insects)
    Missing Belt Guard (not missing nothing now...)

  14. #14
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by autoexacto View Post
    Excellent info guys, I just can't wait to get my Bajaron... Possibly will get the Elkas too depending on the piggy bank...
    That has got to be the slowest Express package I've ever shipped! I guess they must be having a lot of fun with it. That bar has more miles on it than most Spyders!
    Shop Ph: 423-609-7588 (M-F, 8-5, Eastern Time)

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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by BajaRon View Post
    That has got to be the slowest Express package I've ever shipped! I guess they must be having a lot of fun with it. That bar has more miles on it than most Spyders!
    JAJAJA/LOL you made me laugh, actually it has more miles than my RT (1600 kms now = 1000 miles). At least is here and REALLY looking forward to installing it....thanks Ron, great service!!!
    CARPE DIEM - Live and Let LIVE...
    NOW and loving it.... 2014 SpYder RT Limited Silver
    My daily commuter: 2014 BMW RNineT
    EX BMW Fiasco: 2014 R1200RT-LC (thanks to ¨her¨ now I truly ¨RYDE¨)
    LOOK INTO MY EYES......

    Farkles:
    Bajaron Anti-Sway Bar (A must have!)
    Bump Skid Plate (too many bumps in México)
    Stainless Steel Kott Grilles (was collecting too many insects)
    Missing Belt Guard (not missing nothing now...)

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by BajaRon View Post
    Think of it this way. If you removed the shocks and installed a solid bar in their place, how much lean, sway, dive would you get?

    ZERO!

    But your dentures would fall out and your head would hurt from your eyeballs bouncing around. Think, riding on a lawnmower or tractor over bumpy ground.

    Ergo, the hydraulic shock was invented.

    So, if the shock spring is set very soft, your ride is very comfy, but you sacrifice handling in the form of a great deal of lean, sway and dive. Though you can reduce lean, etc., with the spring setting adjustment, that is not primarily what the spring adjustment is for. Spring adjustment is provided to maintain ride height when you load the Spyder, not to fix lean issues.

    You can stiffen up your shock springs to counter this unwanted lean, (effectively getting closer to the steel bar scenario), but you'll sacrifice some ride comfort. The purpose of a shock is to reach that happy medium of reasonably good ride and reasonably good handling.

    But shocks can provide only so much of either. Any improvement in one aspect is always at the expense of the other.

    So, how can we achieve more of what we want (better handling) and still have a great ride? Better shocks (i.e. Elka) can provide this to a certain degree. But one component is rarely the complete answer, especially when it comes to suspension.

    The Sway Bar was invented, (or, more accurately, the Anti-Sway bar), to assist the shocks in resisting sway, lean and dive without increasing harshness of ride. Because the sway bar has no affect on the suspension (shocks/springs included) when running straight, you can maintain your cushy spring setting without the negative aspects encountered in turns, crosswinds, etc. Because when you turn, the sway bar jumps in and takes care of the unwanted sway, lean and dive.

    So, you can have your cake and eat it too!
    I see a lot of pro comments on the sway bar. I have a 14 RT LTD and due to my limited experience I don't know if it would help me or not. Are they difficult to install? I can design u a communication system for an aircraft carrier but give me a wrench and I hurt myself!

  17. #17
    Active Member billy4644's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SubDriver View Post
    I see a lot of pro comments on the sway bar. I have a 14 RT LTD and due to my limited experience I don't know if it would help me or not. Are they difficult to install? I can design u a communication system for an aircraft carrier but give me a wrench and I hurt myself!
    No they are not hard to install. The hardest part ( I think ) is getting the Spyder high enough. I finally borrowed another motorcycle jack and then used my floor jack to raise the bike up about 5 inches or so and then slid the motorcycle jacks in from the side. Thirty seconds later and I was all set to go. The bar comes with two new white bushing blocks and I just used a pair of channel-lock pliers to squeeze them shut enough and they just walked into place. http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...-anti-sway-bar
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  18. #18
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    Default sway

    try going to about 22psi in front tires , these stock front tires have very soft sidewalls and tend to squirm badly in corners

  19. #19
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    I have an STS and tightened the shocks to their max.
    I also added the BajaRon sway bar.
    Cornering is much, much better... I never had a problem with trucks passing or overtaking them.
    I do and did have issues with the ruts in the road that cars or trucks have made. This I've learnt is down to the width of the Spyder compared to the ruts.
    The rear wheel wants to ride on the middle / top of the rut or move left / right down the rut.
    This creates a quick "Sway" that you have to control with the bars, causing your upper body to move left or right, countering which ever way the bike is going down the rut.

    Everyone is right, gripping the tank when this happens with your knees really helps keep your body stable.
    I added the Techspec knee pads to the side panels... Big help.

  20. #20
    Registered Users mtdoragary's Avatar
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    No adjustment has helped mine, but I'm moving the shock mounts inboard an inch to see if that helps.

    Quote Originally Posted by autoexacto View Post
    Thanks for your comments, must be that I am not used to on riding a Spyder since I have been riding regular bikes. I do feel that moves side to side or ¨sways¨ as I interpret it. The roads that I have been mostly are two way around small hills with nice turns (some sharp some, not. When I turned, passed a car or the road was not leveled it would sway or feel that would go to the lower level side. Now, am I missing something? Already have 1100 miles in less than a month or so and I do not ride it everyday, would think that got used to it. But to ME, changing the electronic suspension one more bar from mid point made the difference, am I crazy or what?...jejeje
    3:16

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