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2012 RT LTD clicks but won't start
Hi everybody,
I've read every post I can find on this subject, pulled every relay, pulled and checked every fuse, tightened every battery terminal, unit shows 12.8 at the battery and the frunk accessory 12 V plug as well as the brunk accessory 12 V plug, The dealer installed a new battery on 5/28/14. My dealer isn't open till Tuesday, anyone got any more suggestions? I suspect bad cell in the battery with less than 300 miles traveled however, no bulging on it. I have a 12V battery load tester and will try that tomorrow.
Appreciate any help - thanks,
Joe
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Originally Posted by JoeUpchurch
Hi everybody,
I've read every post I can find on this subject, pulled every relay, pulled and checked every fuse, tightened every battery terminal, unit shows 12.8 at the battery and the frunk accessory 12 V plug as well as the brunk accessory 12 V plug, The dealer installed a new battery on 5/28/14. My dealer isn't open till Tuesday, anyone got any more suggestions? I suspect bad cell in the battery with less than 300 miles traveled however, no bulging on it. I have a 12V battery load tester and will try that tomorrow.
Appreciate any help - thanks,
Joe
kill switch? Left in gear?
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If it is the kill switch it would be broken - checked and double checked each try.
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Says in 1st gear but I can't get it out. Always cranked in first gear in the past.
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Only relay I didn't pull was the "rectifier" under the plastic - put the plastic back on without thinking.
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And, of course, hasn't thrown the first code - checked that before and after on and off and start failure.
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Originally Posted by JoeUpchurch
And, of course, hasn't thrown the first code - checked that before and after on and off and start failure.
Foot or hand on brake then try to start
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Active Member
Probably not very helpfull
There was a guy in the last two weeks that had the same symptom (sounds like anyway) and it turned out to be his starter had locked up. Not something I would try to fix at home.
bummer dude!
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Thanks, but tried that repeatedly
Originally Posted by happyspyder2039
Foot or hand on brake then try to start
Thanks for the effort of reading and replying to my problem.
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Load test verifies battery in perfect condition and fully charges
I guess it's on to my dealer now - have no trailer - we'll see how well BEST PLUS works!, to be continued
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The only way that your bike could turn over while in first gear...
... if your foot was on the brake.
Give it another try...
"Says in 1st gear but I can't get it out. Always cranked in first gear in the past."
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Chris ( from my dealer) called this afternoon and informed me that my Spyder was fixed and that the problem was that the chassis ground had come undone. Can anyone tell me where the chassis ground is, how to check if it comes undone? Really perplexed.
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Very Active Member
Under the seat on the right side is the main one. Doubles as the negative jumper post.
2018 F3 LIMITED
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Billy, how could this be? The jumper post was a solid connection to the battery, the dealer mentioned that they should have caught it at the 4600 inspection - just makes no sense to me - I made sure that the thing was tight from the top. Help, please.
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Ground wire to oil tank?
Originally Posted by Bob Denman
Joe,
Is your bike now starting normally for you?
If so...
My dealer's tech says the ground wire on the oil tank was loose. Now runs as designed. Dealer covered under warranty. Happy to ride again!
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by JoeUpchurch
My dealer's tech says the ground wire on the oil tank was loose. Now runs as designed. Dealer covered under warranty. Happy to ride again!
Thanks for letting us know. It may help someone else in the future.
2018 F3 LIMITED
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Up and running just great!
Last edited by Joe Upchurch; 09-04-2014 at 08:31 PM.
Reason: Won't start
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Hi my 2012 has a starting problem too
Hi , my 2012 rts , has a starting problem too. I drive it often & keep it on the batty tender. I put in a new battery. I think it is the start switch on the handle bar. But dealer won't change the switch for me. Transmission in natural, I push the start button & nothing happens.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by project.618
Hi , my 2012 rts , has a starting problem too. I drive it often & keep it on the batty tender. I put in a new battery. I think it is the start switch on the handle bar. But dealer won't change the switch for me. Transmission in natural, I push the start button & nothing happens.
You would be better off starting your own thread so we can deal specifically with your Spyder's starting problem.
When you push the start button and nothing happens it is not a battery problem. As you found out.
Is the engine stop switch in the run position?
Is your foot pressing down the brake pedal?
When you press the brake pedal are the brake lights coming on?
When you first turn the key on, do you hear the fuel pump run?
After about a minute after first turning on the key. Does the message "Bad Key" scroll across the screen? Warning it may only do this once.
2018 F3 LIMITED
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Very Active Member
So our last post from Joe was that he was going to the dealer again. Did we ever hear any more from him? Do we know if this got resolved and if so what that was? Joe where are you?
Happy TRAils/NSD
Paul
2012 RT L
AMA 25 years Life Member
TRA
PGR
Rhino Riders Plate #83
Venturers #78
TOI
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by JoeUpchurch
Billy, how could this be? The jumper post was a solid connection to the battery, the dealer mentioned that they should have caught it at the 4600 inspection - just makes no sense to me - I made sure that the thing was tight from the top. Help, please.
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Well if it's not that one there must be others. I do not have 2012 service manual so I can't look it up. Then it still would be a guess. Why not ask the dealer where it was?
2018 F3 LIMITED
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Seems there are 3 major chassis grounds, anyone know where the third is ?
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One more observation about my 2012 RT Ltd not starting. The next day (after dealer found ground wire to the oil tank loose) I rode for 100 Miles to Ricky Clayborn's house for his laser alignment and back home only to hear the clicking sound once more the next morning. I had forgotten to plug the battery maintainer in and with subsequent testing of everything I could think of I finally found that the iPod in the trunk and the 660 Garmin when left on the Spyder draw just enough current to kill your next start up attempt. I can say that conclusively (I think) because as soon as I hooked up a battery charger set to deliver 40 amps it started strong re than usual. Additionally, by disconnecting the Garmin and the iPod the maintainer indicates full charge a whole lot faster. So, if you have starter problems and you've ruled out everything else - this is something else to check.
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