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Thread: 1330 OIL REPORT

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    Very Active Member PW2013STL's Avatar
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    Default 1330 OIL REPORT

    Thinking 9300 miles between oil change is a bit to long I changed it at 6000 miles (9000 on the Spyder) and sent a sample to Blackstone Labs to be tested. Received the report yesterday. Everything came back positive and with a recommendation to wait until 8000 for the next change.
    Looks like BRP got this one correct

    I changed over to Mobil 1 10-40 and will wait the 9300 miles and have it tested again
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    Very Active Member Highwayman2013's Avatar
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    Would be nice to see if the BRP oil would go the distance. This is very interesting and thanks for posting your results.
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    Like you, I thought 9000 was a bit optimistic so I've been changing mine at 4000 intervals. I've just been using BRP oil.

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    Very Active Member PW2013STL's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PMK View Post
    Mobil 1 10-40, to clarify, this was the motorcycle specific oil or you used one of their automobile oils with an energy conserving rating.

    It sounds as if you ran the oem oil until 3000 miles for break in, then at 3000 miles went to Mobil 1, hopefully moto oil, and the sample was done on the Mobil 1

    PK
    To clarify - I ran BRP oil and had that tested at 6000 miles (9000 on the Spyder). The first service was done by the dealer then at 9000 miles I changed the oil switching over to Mobil 1 motorcycle oil as I have been using Mobil synthatic oil in all my motorcycles for many years with great results.
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    Quote Originally Posted by PW2013STL View Post
    Thinking 9300 miles between oil change is a bit to long I changed it at 6000 miles (9000 on the Spyder) and sent a sample to Blackstone Labs to be tested. Received the report yesterday. Everything came back positive and with a recommendation to wait until 8000 for the next change.
    Looks like BRP got this one correct

    I changed over to Mobil 1 10-40 and will wait the 9300 miles and have it tested again
    That a great report. Could you copy and paste the report here for us to see the numbers? I'd especially like the numbers after cST100c.
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    Quote Originally Posted by ulflyer View Post
    That a great report. Could you copy and paste the report here for us to see the numbers? I'd especially like the numbers after cST100c.
    I have been trying, but so far no luck. The number for that is 8.36 and the range is listed at 6.0-9.7
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    Quote Originally Posted by PW2013STL View Post
    I have been trying, but so far no luck. The number for that is 8.36 and the range is listed at 6.0-9.7
    Hi Les,

    Is this the Mobil 1 you use? Mobil 1 10W-40 Full Synthetic Motorcycle Oil, 1 qt. It says "Racing 4T" on the front in the red portion of the bottle.
    Happy and safe rydin'
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    Quote Originally Posted by PW2013STL View Post
    To clarify - I ran BRP oil and had that tested at 6000 miles (9000 on the Spyder). The first service was done by the dealer then at 9000 miles I changed the oil switching over to Mobil 1 motorcycle oil as I have been using Mobil synthatic oil in all my motorcycles for many years with great results.
    Was the BRP oil the full synthetic or was it the blend when the dealer done the first service at 3000 miles? I believe my dealer used the blend when doing my first service! I've got one more oil change with BRP Oil (blend) before switching due to purchasing it ahead of time.....based on your report, looks like Mobil 1 10W-40 motorcycle full synthetic is the way to go!
    Last edited by Jim&Teresa; 07-31-2014 at 07:41 AM.
    Happy and safe rydin'
    2014 Spyder RT Limited - January 2014, Cognac/Black Seat, #958, born on 1-8-14
    2014 RT Limited , Cognac

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    Quote Originally Posted by JLSpyder2012 View Post
    Hi Les,

    Is this the Mobil 1 you use? Mobil 1 10W-40 Full Synthetic Motorcycle Oil, 1 qt. It says "Racing 4T" on the front in the red portion of the bottle.
    Jim,

    That is the one. AutoZone $8.99 per qt.
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    Thanks for this report!
    Question: Would you suggest using BRP's full synthetic, as opposed to their blend?
    (I'm getting REAL close to the 3,000 mile tap-dance... I'd like to be sure of what to ask for! )
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

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    Very Active Member PW2013STL's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JLSpyder2012 View Post
    Was the BRP oil the full synthetic or was it the blend when the dealer done the first service at 3000 miles? I believe my dealer used the blend when doing my first service! I've got one more oil change with BRP Oil (blend) before switching due to purchasing it ahead of time.....based on your report, looks like Mobil 1 10w-40 motorcycle full synthetic is the way to go!
    It was the blend for me also.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    Thanks for this report!
    Question: Would you suggest using BRP's full synthetic, as opposed to their blend?
    (I'm getting REAL close to the 3,000 mile tap-dance... I'd like to be sure of what to ask for! )
    I considered using BRP's full synthetic, but I know Mobil 1 and it was less $. Their blend (BRP) is doing well so you can use it without worries, but I like the extra protection of full synthetic
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    Thanks!
    The 9,000 plus miles between changes, has had me a bit concerned about using a non-synthetic oil...
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    Thanks!
    The 9,000 plus miles between changes, has had me a bit concerned about using a non-synthetic oil...
    If it makes you feel any better Blackstone's report thinks it is good for 8,000 miles.
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    Default What I have been told

    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    Thanks for this report!
    Question: Would you suggest using BRP's full synthetic, as opposed to their blend?
    (I'm getting REAL close to the 3,000 mile tap-dance... I'd like to be sure of what to ask for! )
    I will be due for my 12k soon. When I scheduled appt with (this is a new dealer for me) dealership I asked about going BRP full synthetic and he said the same thing that Pitbull said. 'BRP is recommending the BRP blend for the 1330'. Now I know the profit dance about using BRP products . I used full synthetic (AMSOIL) in the 998. Because of the amount that I travel and need to have service sometimes on the road + having to carry AMSOIL I decided to stick with BRP oil for the 1330. Deciding to trust my dealers' knowledge and BRP's recommendation I am staying with BRP Blend as well as following their maintenance schedule...just my decision...I am sooooooo not "smart" in oil...other than olive oil for my culinary excursions!!!

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    You guys are making me feel a lot better about my ignorance!
    Thanks!

    Olive oil?
    From the extra-ugly olives??
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

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    Very Active Member PW2013STL's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by murphybrown View Post
    I will be due for my 12k soon. When I scheduled appt with (this is a new dealer for me) dealership I asked about going BRP full synthetic and he said the same thing that Pitbull said. 'BRP is recommending the BRP blend for the 1330'. Now I know the profit dance about using BRP products . I used full synthetic (AMSOIL) in the 998. Because of the amount that I travel and need to have service sometimes on the road + having to carry AMSOIL I decided to stick with BRP oil for the 1330. Deciding to trust my dealers' knowledge and BRP's recommendation I am staying with BRP Blend as well as following their maintenance schedule...just my decision...I am sooooooo not "smart" in oil...other than olive oil for my culinary excursions!!!
    From the report you should be fine as it looks like a quality oil
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    Quote Originally Posted by PW2013STL View Post
    From the report you should be fine as it looks like a quality oil
    I used Amsoil in my GS with great results before selling it and still have case left over. Glad to hear it's still good for the '14

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    Default Break-in period

    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    Thanks!
    The 9,000 plus miles between changes, has had me a bit concerned about using a non-synthetic oil...
    Ive had mechanics say that break-in on a NEW engine should be done with regular motor oil, it helps seat the rings and valves better. Then do the switch over to synthetic oil..I have used Mobil I in all my vehicles and would recommend it..So does Tony Stewart..LOL

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    Quote Originally Posted by opiewhan View Post
    Ive had mechanics say that break-in on a NEW engine should be done with regular motor oil, it helps seat the rings and valves better. Then do the switch over to synthetic oil..I have used Mobil I in all my vehicles and would recommend it..So does Tony Stewart..LOL
    and that is why I waited until I had 9000 miles on it before changing to full synthetc.
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    SYNTHETIC OIL MYTHS

    Myth: Once you switch to synthetic oil you can never switch back. This is one of the most persistent myths about synthetic oil—and completely untrue. You can switch back and forth at any time. In fact, synthetic blends are simply a mixture of synthetic and conventional oils. It is advisable that you use the same oil for top-ups if needed, thereby giving you the best protection from the oil that you have chosen.
    Myth: You shouldn’t use synthetic oil in an older vehicle. The myth is rooted in the idea that synthetic oil is “slipperier,” lower in viscosity, or not as compatible with seals and will therefore leak or leak more in places conventional oil might not. Again, completely untrue. Synthetic oils will enhance the engine protection in older vehicles just as they do for new engines.
    Myth: You should break in your engine with conventional oil before you start using synthetic oil. Again, there’s no manufacturer we’re aware of that makes this recommendation. Mercedes, Porsche, Corvette, some Cadillacs, Volkswagen, Hyundai and many other manufacturers’ cars come from the factory with synthetic oil.
    Myth: Using a synthetic oil voids a car’s warranty. Untrue. The only engines that specifically exclude the use of a synthetic motor oil are some Mazda rotary engines.
    Myth: Synthetics made from Group III base oils are not true synthetics and are not as good as PAO-based synthetics in Group IV. Again, untrue. Synthetics made from Group III oil can, in some cases, outperform those made in Group IV oils in some areas of performance.

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    Now... You're from Texas; right?
    If they catch you trying to push the use of synthetics, can't they just shoot you?
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    Now... You're from Texas; right?
    If they catch you trying to push the use of synthetics, can't they just shoot you?
    Yup, that's what I hear

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    Very Active Member Highwayman2013's Avatar
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    So we can conclude that BRP blend is just fine.
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    Early SpyderLover posts suggested Mobil 1 (motorcycle) cause permanent clutch damage on the Spyder. I don't know if that is still the case, but wanted to throw this out there.

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