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Mod Monster
Originally Posted by Wlfpak65
ime stuck on stupid with LED light too lol.... But cn I get more info on how u installed lights in the compartments of the spyder?
HA! LEDs are very simple and it's like how you eat an elephant.... one piece ar a time. So, here's the idea of how to do LEDs in the compartments....
1. Go to PepBoys and get a package of the WHITE 12" LED strips. There will be 2 strips in a package. You can also order on line- http://www.pepboys.com/product/detai...n_lighting/led
2. LED strips like these most always have 2 things in common-
a) They mount easily via double sided adhesive tape that is affixed to the LED strip. Once you figure out where you want to mount it (I put it on the top of the compartment near the front), you peel and stick. OK... you should use something like denatured alcohol and a clean cloth to make sure the plastic is really clean before you stick the LED strip to the plastic.
b) They have 2 wires coming out of one end. One of the wires (in the case of these strips) has a white line on it and the other doesn't. The one WITH the white line goes to +12volts. The one without the line goes to -12 volts (also called 'ground' on Spyders). These lead wires (lead as in leader) are pretty long and the insulation is already stripped off a little on the ends for you.
3. HERE"s a potential heart stopper- you need to drill small holes to get the LED lead wire from inside the enclosure out to a convenient place still inside the tupperware, but out of sight. I drill my holes in the 90° bend of the compartments. Make the holes small, but large enough to push the wires through. Then, if you really want extra points, put a dab of silicon seal back in the hole to seal it up.
4. Now... wiring them up.....
a) If you are wiring these on the back compartments, the smartest place to hook up the LED leads is around the rear light housings. The leads will be long enough, easily.
b) I HIGHLY suggest using PosiTaps for this next step-- http://www.amazon.com/Posi-tap-Conne...-tap+connector They really make wiring easy. You CAN get wire taps from PepBoys as well, but they'll work very differently. In any case, the idea is to not permanently hurt the stock Spyder wiring, yet make it easy to 'tap on' to that wiring to get the +12 volts and ground.
c) Assuming you have taken off the back tupperware and removed the back light housings (about 10-15 min to do that step), now the wire tapping begins.
d) I'm NOT going to get into wire colors (much) since it can vary by the year and model Spyder a little. So here's what I do.... BLACK wire on the Spyder is almost always -12volts (ground). So use the wire tap and attach the LED lead that does NOT have the white stripe to most any of the black wires.
e) Now we might have to experiment..... (electron guys, just work with me here)... I turn on the power to the bike (key on) so that the back lights come on steady (meaning not the turn signals or the brake lights). I then get a small safety pin. Wedge the bare portion of the LED lead wire that has the white stripe into the curly bit of the safety pin. Then, CAREFULLY push the pin into the non-black wires that run to the rear lights until your new LED strip lights up. YIPEE! You have found the +12volts source you need. Now CAREFULLY remove the pin (you don't want that pin touching anything metal). Immediately turn off the power to the bike and tap the LED wire with the white lead properly with the PosiTap or other splice to that wire you just found.
f) Do the other side the same way (likely it will be the same color wire) then test your work before the next step.
5. Tidy up extra wire. I usually make it into a loop and put a tiewrap on it. TEST it again!
6. Put the tupperware back on.
7. Turn on the key, stand back and say WOW... lookie dat!
Now... you say how to I get them to go off when the compartment is closed? I say don't worry about it. Unlike incandescent bulbs (the old ones with filaments that got pretty hot), LEDs barely get warm. At lease the ones we're talking about here barely get warm. There IS some heat, but it is really small and dissipates pretty well. So I let mine stay on all the time that the bike power is on. Remember that these LED strips draw VERY little power. VERY little. And they last for 20,000-50,000 hours (about 70 years in case you're curious). So, like the light in your fridge... don't worry about it!
NOW.. as with everything... you do this at your own risk. But the risk is very low on LEDs. Go light up your world!!
Last edited by Phil; 08-01-2014 at 11:17 AM.
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Phil - Tyler Texas
2010 RT-Premiere Edition (Named DARTH) | Timeless Black | All My Mods--- ARE HERE | Phil. 4:4
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RT-S PE#0031
One thing I might add to Phil's great instructions above is to label your wires. You or your mechanic will appreciate the labels later on down the road when you've forgotten what wire goes where. I have a label maker printer and will print, peel and tag the wire in a place that you'll most likely see it and wonder what it is, for me, generally where it hooks into power.
Mark & Mary Lou Lawson
Snellville, GA USA
'10 RT-S PE #0031
'10 RT-622 Trailer
'08 Yellow SM5 #2332
'01 Black GL1800A Goldwing #0930
"Remember in the darkness what you have learned in the light." - Joe Bayly
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Mod Monster
Originally Posted by MarkLawson
One thing I might add to Phil's great instructions above is to label your wires. You or your mechanic will appreciate the labels later on down the road when you've forgotten what wire goes where. I have a label maker printer and will print, peel and tag the wire in a place that you'll most likely see it and wonder what it is, for me, generally where it hooks into power.
GREAT add Mark. 100% correct.
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Phil - Tyler Texas
2010 RT-Premiere Edition (Named DARTH) | Timeless Black | All My Mods--- ARE HERE | Phil. 4:4
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Thanks of all the great info! Wasn't expecting the thorough steps lol soo I think I got it now lol... I'll be attempting this install in the next few days? I'll let u know how it goes?
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Mod Monster
Small addition today. See if you can pick it out before scrolling down....
Ok.... I added EL wire light to accent the fog light housings. It's the same technology that drives the round SpyderIchthus logo in the middle. In fact, it's the same driver that runs all 3 lights (2 light wires and the round bit). In a few days, I'll show how it's mounted.
And.... I'm experimenting with a company that does black chrome painting. Here it is on a bit of my Bell helmet (along with some rain drops)...
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Phil - Tyler Texas
2010 RT-Premiere Edition (Named DARTH) | Timeless Black | All My Mods--- ARE HERE | Phil. 4:4
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RT-S PE#0031
Or you could look at this option...
or this...
Mark & Mary Lou Lawson
Snellville, GA USA
'10 RT-S PE #0031
'10 RT-622 Trailer
'08 Yellow SM5 #2332
'01 Black GL1800A Goldwing #0930
"Remember in the darkness what you have learned in the light." - Joe Bayly
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Mod Monster
Mark- I've had conversations with them. As soon as Sue Hopper gets a minute to breathe, I'm shipping several body panels to her to do a layout on Psycho (Bobbie;s bike) that should be awesome. Then, it's over to Dark Side, then back to Sue then back to us. HOPEFULLY by this fall we'll have a REALLY cool design done.
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Phil - Tyler Texas
2010 RT-Premiere Edition (Named DARTH) | Timeless Black | All My Mods--- ARE HERE | Phil. 4:4
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Very Active Member
Lights by windshield deflectors?
Phil, how did you install the led's by the deflectors near the windshield? Thanks!
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Very Active Member
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Mod Monster
Originally Posted by taxmyzer
Phil, how did you install the led's by the deflectors near the windshield? Thanks!
I know I didn't go into a lot of supplier detail nor pics, and I will fill in those details along the way. But let me try to help on this one.
After a loooooong search, I found these guys: www.Lumenedge.com If you look at their site for a bit, you'll find the secret sauce. They have RGB 5050 LEDs on a 1/4" substrate that fits very nicely into a plastic U channel that they sell. The wings use their U channel that has one long leg aand the other leg is shorter. It is NOT flexible, so I had to be creative to make it fit. Also- soldering the strips in NOT for the faint of heart. High power magnifying glass and digital iron!!
More pics later, but that will get you started
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Phil - Tyler Texas
2010 RT-Premiere Edition (Named DARTH) | Timeless Black | All My Mods--- ARE HERE | Phil. 4:4
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Mod Monster
I promised pics of the Lumenedge lights. Here are 2 CU views so you can see how they mount...
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Phil - Tyler Texas
2010 RT-Premiere Edition (Named DARTH) | Timeless Black | All My Mods--- ARE HERE | Phil. 4:4
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Mod Monster
A few more lights. Hey, it was my birthday. That's my excuse and I'm stickin to it. The additions are the gobo lights, aka projector lights. They are LED, of course.
Last edited by Phil; 08-23-2014 at 11:35 PM.
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Phil - Tyler Texas
2010 RT-Premiere Edition (Named DARTH) | Timeless Black | All My Mods--- ARE HERE | Phil. 4:4
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Very Active Member
Man I so wish you lived closer. I would love to be able to do just a fraction of what you have done. Very nice....
2007 M109R LE - To many MODS to list. Its cheaper that way!!!
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Mod Monster
FARKLE your helmet
I found one place that I had not used for LEDs! So I got this-----
It works really well and took about 30 minutes to install.
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Phil - Tyler Texas
2010 RT-Premiere Edition (Named DARTH) | Timeless Black | All My Mods--- ARE HERE | Phil. 4:4
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Mod Monster
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Active Member
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Very Active Member
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Registered Users
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Registered Users
How much, if any, brightness did you lose by putting he reflectors over the LED's?
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Very Active Member
Phil check this out
Hey Phil, another guy posted where BRP gets thier switches.
I bet this would fit inbetwen the 4 others on the RT. Use it to turn on your light systesm
http://www.otrattw.net/CONTURA-V-ALI...PZCAL-100.html
Bob
2011 RT-S SM5 - Black
Bought June 2013 with 450 miles. 27K on 8-1-2017.
Farkles - DIY Trunk Break Light, HMT Break Light, DIY Mirror Turn Signal Lights, DIY Bluetooth Dongle, DIY iPod Setup, DIY Alarm System Install, Show Chrome front fender / rear saddle bag lights, 4th break light around the trunk, Vented Windshield, Baja Ron Sway Bar, DIY GPS setup, Smooth Spyder, BRP Chrome Mirrors, Adjustable deflectors, Triaxis handlebars, NVB Pegs, Bad Boy Airhorn... More to come
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Mod Monster
Originally Posted by mtdoragary
How much, if any, brightness did you lose by putting he reflectors over the LED's?
I lost a LITTLE. BUT... in my mind the Brightsides are SO bright, they would do well to go down a little bit. I actually wanted to add another diffuser material between the light and the reflector (which also would slightly lower the brightness), but the material doesn't want to hold glue that well.
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Phil - Tyler Texas
2010 RT-Premiere Edition (Named DARTH) | Timeless Black | All My Mods--- ARE HERE | Phil. 4:4
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Mod Monster
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Phil - Tyler Texas
2010 RT-Premiere Edition (Named DARTH) | Timeless Black | All My Mods--- ARE HERE | Phil. 4:4
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Mod Monster
Originally Posted by NoLmtz
Phil, I'm just down the road from you (relatively in Texas miles)!! I only want to do a fraction of what you've done... you should host a bootcamp for Spyder accessorizing!!
Your additions are incredible... keep them coming!
Love the projections, will be checking those out in more detail!!
I'd love to put something together here in Tyler for anyone that would come. Maybe get Lamont and Harvey to come and do some laser alignments, have some food, fellowship, and show how we do some of the things we do.
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Phil - Tyler Texas
2010 RT-Premiere Edition (Named DARTH) | Timeless Black | All My Mods--- ARE HERE | Phil. 4:4
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Registered Users
Love your SpyderIcthus logo!
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Mod Monster
Originally Posted by mtdoragary
Love your SpyderIcthus logo!
Thanks! I'm happy to send one to you. Email me- genesis@genesisworld.com
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Phil - Tyler Texas
2010 RT-Premiere Edition (Named DARTH) | Timeless Black | All My Mods--- ARE HERE | Phil. 4:4
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