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  1. #1
    Mod Monster Phil's Avatar
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    Default Phil's 2014 (neww) DARTH Mods

    Many of you know that I am in a 12 step program for LED addiction This thread will chronicle the farkling of (new) DARTH that we picked up from Pitbull and Lamonster Garage at Spyderfest 2014.

    I searched for the latest LED technologies. The latest in super bright LEDs is a class called COB LEDs. Chips On Board. There are lots of small LED chips, densely packed into a confined area. The lumens output is really great. Right now, I only see them in white (several color temps).

    II also wanted to use some old EL (electro luminescent) technologies. AND even some spotlight and projector technologies. Some of these have not yet been completed, but all of the wiring is in place and ready when the parts arrive from various parts of the globe.

    My goal is NOT to be a light show that should be at a circus. My goal is to have a wow factor that is somewhat subtle. And, like past posts, show what CAN be done with a few hundred feet of wire, solder, LED strips and more, lots of Posi-taps, and lots of planning and patience.

    Here are some of the results pics with some description.....


    I started by adding a Fuzeblok. It gives a single point from which to run wires and from which to chase problems, if you have any...


    http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/...b88f76406d.jpg

    In another post I showed that I swapped out the halogen headlights for HID-




    I also swapped the fog lights for LED. Now, before you write.... I have never used the fogs to light my way. I have only used thm for people to see me better. So I'm experimenting here.....



    Here's the look of the results. The pic is deceiving. To the eye, the heads (which are 5000k) are much bluer than in this pic---



    I then spent about 3 weeks with almost all of the tupperware off to get to the next level. I'm sorry that I didn't take the time to do detailed pics on all that I did, but ya know, SL now has such REALLY talented and great ryders and modyrs, I know you'll get it with little explaination.

    Here's the way the front looks now...

    There are few things of note. The MOB LED focused lights that I have added on the nose, pointed outward, are AMAZING. I had used these on old Darth as 'cornering' lights. They would come on when you hit your turn signal. I decided to add these guys and tie them through a relay, into the high beam circuit. So... when you hit the high beam button, the shudders go up, and these guys come on (as you can see in the pic). At night they light up both sides of the highway which in Texas is great to help spot deer as much in advance as possible! NEXT are the white light rings behind the Spyderpops KOTT screens. Now these are cool. They are white & amber leds inside a diffuser. It looks like neon, it is so smooth. When your signal is used, the proper one goes to amber and flashes with all the rest of the signals, then they automatically go back to white. Back behind the stock BRP grills, I have heavy RGB (red green blue) LED strips that reflect off of the radiators. This is the pink that you see.



    Not too much special here. The under body glow is RGB. I added a 5000k white light above the license plate (for the plate, but also for the hitch). The SpyderIchthus is made from EL plastic and uses a special driver to illuminate it. Of course, you can see Reggy's run/stop ring too.


    Here are a few views around DARTH..



    This worked out very well. These are very bright white LED strips from Pep Boys. Made by Pilot (you can also get them on Amazon). They REALLY light up the trunk, side bags, and glove box.....



    Here is some of the secret sauce. This is a 4 zone controller from SuperbrightLEDs.com I HAVE a different one, but ditched it when SBLED came out with this one that ALSO has a WiFi hot-spot so you can control all of the lights from a phone app!! And I do! The app is very similar to this controller. The color wheel is great to select just the color you want.
    Zone 1 is the ground effect lighting
    Zone 2 are all RGB lights above the ground so they can be dimmed down and color changes separately
    Zone 3 - not yet used
    Zone 4 - All of the white 'courtesy' lights (like the dash lights, puddle lights, frunk interior lights, and a couple of other minor lights).


    Another front shot...


    This gives an overall of the driver's perspective. You can also see the Providence power box. This is the DIY version. I added 2 switches to it. The green one, allows one button 'all dash lights bright' access. It bypasses the LED controller and makes them all 100% bright. The blue on the right, allows you to turn on all LEDs and other accessories that are on the added Fuzeblok, without turning on the key. IF you have pressed the super secret hidden kill everything switch!!


    Like I said, there are more pics to come and more mods on the way. Stay tuned!!




    Phil, Tyler TX- from my iPad 7.5 using Tapatalk HD
    Last edited by Phil; 07-20-2014 at 09:55 PM.
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    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default No way..!!

    You can kiss that subtle theory goodbye..!! lot of work but glowing nicely...
    Gene and Ilana De Laney
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    Very Active Member jcthorne's Avatar
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    What are those pink led's on the air deflectors just below and to the outside of the windshield and where are they placed to get that edge lit effect?

    Nice work by the way.

    Blue Flame Spyder F3-S
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    Mod Monster Phil's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jcthorne View Post
    What are those pink led's on the air deflectors just below and to the outside of the windshield and where are they placed to get that edge lit effect?

    Nice work by the way.
    Yes sir, they are edge lit. There is a company (I need to go back and research who since I bought them months ago) that makes a really narrow footprint 5050 RGB LED strip, and sells them along with plastic 'U' channel. Great guy. It requires some very fine soldering to get the wires attached. The gut that sells them designed them for office and store signs and can make up lengths that you want. But I bought a roll and made up the 3 that you see. They are pink because I tuned them (RGB) to pink.

    The wind deflectors are mounted on the inside edges and for the windshield, it is on the bottom middle.
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    Very Active Member jcthorne's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phil View Post
    Yes sir, they are edge lit. There is a company (I need to go back and research who since I bought them months ago) that makes a really narrow footprint 5050 RGB LED strip, and sells them along with plastic 'U' channel. Great guy. It requires some very fine soldering to get the wires attached. The gut that sells them designed them for office and store signs and can make up lengths that you want. But I bought a roll and made up the 3 that you see. They are pink because I tuned them (RGB) to pink.

    The wind deflectors are mounted on the inside edges and for the windshield, it is on the bottom middle.
    Thanks, would really appreciate the source for the thin strips with U-channel for the edge lights. I'd really like some of these.

    Blue Flame Spyder F3-S
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    well originally my idea was to use http://www.amazon.com/HitLights-Conn...6G121F0DVDHE4N
    and cut in the middle, use both sides for two strips to connect to wires then use butt connectors to make wires Y together (I have one main strip going down each side of the bike to the last strip and all strips in between Y into that main bus wire)
    however, those connectors like to come off the strip. so my next idea was to hot glue the strip to the connect, which works but you still have the issue of not being able to lay the strip completely flat at the ends because of the connector plastic keeping it up off the bike. Enter more hot glue here. But then the hot air coming from the radiator fan melts the glue. SO... next idea is two part epoxy and some spagetti to protect the wires.

    In low heat areas, those connectors work pretty good and got me out of soldering everything together.

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    Mod Monster Phil's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jcthorne View Post
    Thanks, would really appreciate the source for the thin strips with U-channel for the edge lights. I'd really like some of these.
    I'm writing this from my iPhone at 34,000 feet so it's short!

    lumenedge.com
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    Mod Monster Phil's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rattigan_Roger View Post
    Do you need to get some sort of special permit to travel down the road?


    nice work and great explanations
    HA! The better to see me with little boy
    It's VERY easy to kill all of them if any cop has any issue. I'm pretty careful to not run red or blue modes
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    RT-S PE#0031 MarkLawson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phil View Post
    Many of you know that I am in a 12 step program for LED addiction
    FAIL!!!

    (Darth looks awesome, but the 12 step program is a waste of time)
    Mark & Mary Lou Lawson
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    "Remember in the darkness what you have learned in the light." - Joe Bayly



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    Default Amazing

    My Spyder is coming soon.. More lighting is towards the top of my to-do-list.. Live in Round Rock Texas and will be sure to find you in Tyler and possibly get me started on this addiction ..I would guess sometime around march 2015.. Ill be in touch for sure.. looks great...

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    you sir are an inspiration to my love of LEDS...you are also the bane of my other half's bank accounts existence..lol

    I started a few weeks ago on the LEDS for my bike. Unfortunately she has been a clever girl and has been very difficult for me. I am not a good soldering person so i went with butt connectors. Now my back lights dont display red bc i think the connector didn't get a good contact. Now to tear the bike back apart and redo all the wiring and learn to solder better. Also had issues with LED strips sticking where i wanted them so i used hot glue...mostly worked....except that one strip to light up the radiator fan which promptly melted after a 30 minute ride.

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    Mod Monster Phil's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nikki.ullis View Post
    you sir are an inspiration to my love of LEDS...you are also the bane of my other half's bank accounts existence..lol

    I started a few weeks ago on the LEDS for my bike. Unfortunately she has been a clever girl and has been very difficult for me. I am not a good soldering person so i went with butt connectors. Now my back lights dont display red bc i think the connector didn't get a good contact. Now to tear the bike back apart and redo all the wiring and learn to solder better. Also had issues with LED strips sticking where i wanted them so i used hot glue...mostly worked....except that one strip to light up the radiator fan which promptly melted after a 30 minute ride.
    FULLY understand. Many times I have taken 4 steps forward and 3 back when I get in a hurry.
    S
    oldering is necessary when you make up LED strips the length that you want. Connecting wires... butt connectors and Posi-tap brand connectors are great and make like so much easier.
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    Default Loose your soldering gun.

    Quote Originally Posted by nikki.ullis View Post
    you sir are an inspiration to my love of LEDS...you are also the bane of my other half's bank accounts existence..lol

    I started a few weeks ago on the LEDS for my bike. Unfortunately she has been a clever girl and has been very difficult for me. I am not a good soldering person so i went with butt connectors. Now my back lights dont display red bc i think the connector didn't get a good contact. Now to tear the bike back apart and redo all the wiring and learn to solder better. Also had issues with LED strips sticking where i wanted them so i used hot glue...mostly worked....except that one strip to light up the radiator fan which promptly melted after a 30 minute ride.
    There are wonderful products made by 3M and others that tap your existing wiring harness without cutting, stripping, soldering, and God forbid, putting black tape on your wiring harness.

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    Mod Monster Phil's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by opiewhan View Post
    My Spyder is coming soon.. More lighting is towards the top of my to-do-list.. Live in Round Rock Texas and will be sure to find you in Tyler and possibly get me started on this addiction ..I would guess sometime around march 2015.. Ill be in touch for sure.. looks great...
    Round Rock is not that far. Feel free to reach out to me and/or to Eddie Chance in Palestine. Eddie is great and can do a lot for you too.
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    I didn't go to heb schools, went to bransford , Colleyville middle and grapevine high so it would be mustangs not blue Raiders. However, I did go to Texas Tech which are the red Raiders

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    Mod Monster Phil's Avatar
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    I've had a few emails and FB PMs with questions. I'm traveling so I don't have all of the answers with me......

    But from the questions, I decided to go ahead and post a pic that previously I said I didn't want to post. I'm not really happy at the organization as you see it in the pic. It was in process, and I'm leaving room for one more controller. AND, I made them where they each are removable for maintenance. The larger unit in the lower left is the WiFi hot spot device. With it, I can use the iPhone app to controll the lights within about a 300' radius. The hotspot is USB powered so I installed a 12vdc - 5vdc USB power converter (hardwired). It has a spare USB 2amp outlet so I've set it up for the future.

    Here's all of the LED controllers....


    All of the wires enter and exit from the upper left of the saddlebag. I drilled about a 3/4" hole there.It's exposure to wet is very low. This shot does give a good view of the while LED illuminating the bag.
    Last edited by Phil; 07-24-2014 at 12:59 AM.
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    That looks pretty tough!

    Great job

    Bill

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    Looks awesome!! But your 12 step is a def. FAIL
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    ime stuck on stupid with LED light too lol.... But cn I get more info on how u installed lights in the compartments of the spyder?

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    Mod Monster Phil's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wlfpak65 View Post
    ime stuck on stupid with LED light too lol.... But cn I get more info on how u installed lights in the compartments of the spyder?
    HA! LEDs are very simple and it's like how you eat an elephant.... one piece ar a time. So, here's the idea of how to do LEDs in the compartments....

    1. Go to PepBoys and get a package of the WHITE 12" LED strips. There will be 2 strips in a package. You can also order on line- http://www.pepboys.com/product/detai...n_lighting/led

    2. LED strips like these most always have 2 things in common-

    a) They mount easily via double sided adhesive tape that is affixed to the LED strip. Once you figure out where you want to mount it (I put it on the top of the compartment near the front), you peel and stick. OK... you should use something like denatured alcohol and a clean cloth to make sure the plastic is really clean before you stick the LED strip to the plastic.

    b) They have 2 wires coming out of one end. One of the wires (in the case of these strips) has a white line on it and the other doesn't. The one WITH the white line goes to +12volts. The one without the line goes to -12 volts (also called 'ground' on Spyders). These lead wires (lead as in leader) are pretty long and the insulation is already stripped off a little on the ends for you.

    3. HERE"s a potential heart stopper- you need to drill small holes to get the LED lead wire from inside the enclosure out to a convenient place still inside the tupperware, but out of sight. I drill my holes in the 90° bend of the compartments. Make the holes small, but large enough to push the wires through. Then, if you really want extra points, put a dab of silicon seal back in the hole to seal it up.

    4. Now... wiring them up.....
    a) If you are wiring these on the back compartments, the smartest place to hook up the LED leads is around the rear light housings. The leads will be long enough, easily.
    b) I HIGHLY suggest using PosiTaps for this next step-- http://www.amazon.com/Posi-tap-Conne...-tap+connector They really make wiring easy. You CAN get wire taps from PepBoys as well, but they'll work very differently. In any case, the idea is to not permanently hurt the stock Spyder wiring, yet make it easy to 'tap on' to that wiring to get the +12 volts and ground.
    c) Assuming you have taken off the back tupperware and removed the back light housings (about 10-15 min to do that step), now the wire tapping begins.
    d) I'm NOT going to get into wire colors (much) since it can vary by the year and model Spyder a little. So here's what I do.... BLACK wire on the Spyder is almost always -12volts (ground). So use the wire tap and attach the LED lead that does NOT have the white stripe to most any of the black wires.
    e) Now we might have to experiment..... (electron guys, just work with me here)... I turn on the power to the bike (key on) so that the back lights come on steady (meaning not the turn signals or the brake lights). I then get a small safety pin. Wedge the bare portion of the LED lead wire that has the white stripe into the curly bit of the safety pin. Then, CAREFULLY push the pin into the non-black wires that run to the rear lights until your new LED strip lights up. YIPEE! You have found the +12volts source you need. Now CAREFULLY remove the pin (you don't want that pin touching anything metal). Immediately turn off the power to the bike and tap the LED wire with the white lead properly with the PosiTap or other splice to that wire you just found.
    f) Do the other side the same way (likely it will be the same color wire) then test your work before the next step.

    5. Tidy up extra wire. I usually make it into a loop and put a tiewrap on it. TEST it again!

    6. Put the tupperware back on.

    7. Turn on the key, stand back and say WOW... lookie dat!

    Now... you say how to I get them to go off when the compartment is closed? I say don't worry about it. Unlike incandescent bulbs (the old ones with filaments that got pretty hot), LEDs barely get warm. At lease the ones we're talking about here barely get warm. There IS some heat, but it is really small and dissipates pretty well. So I let mine stay on all the time that the bike power is on. Remember that these LED strips draw VERY little power. VERY little. And they last for 20,000-50,000 hours (about 70 years in case you're curious). So, like the light in your fridge... don't worry about it!

    NOW.. as with everything... you do this at your own risk. But the risk is very low on LEDs. Go light up your world!!
    Last edited by Phil; 08-01-2014 at 11:17 AM.
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    Very Active Member taxmyzer's Avatar
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    Default Lights by windshield deflectors?

    Phil, how did you install the led's by the deflectors near the windshield? Thanks!

    Ride safe!
    2022 Sea-T0-Sky

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    I can only think of one appropriate word to add to this thread....

    WOW!!!!
    Rob
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    Mod Monster Phil's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by taxmyzer View Post
    Phil, how did you install the led's by the deflectors near the windshield? Thanks!
    I know I didn't go into a lot of supplier detail nor pics, and I will fill in those details along the way. But let me try to help on this one.

    After a loooooong search, I found these guys: www.Lumenedge.com If you look at their site for a bit, you'll find the secret sauce. They have RGB 5050 LEDs on a 1/4" substrate that fits very nicely into a plastic U channel that they sell. The wings use their U channel that has one long leg aand the other leg is shorter. It is NOT flexible, so I had to be creative to make it fit. Also- soldering the strips in NOT for the faint of heart. High power magnifying glass and digital iron!!

    More pics later, but that will get you started
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    take me to your leader

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    Phil, I'm just down the road from you (relatively in Texas miles)!! I only want to do a fraction of what you've done... you should host a bootcamp for Spyder accessorizing!!

    Your additions are incredible... keep them coming!

    Love the projections, will be checking those out in more detail!!
    SmoothSpyder Backrest | Removed 'CanAm' graphics | ThermoTech II Wrapped Exhaust | 2014 Vented Side Panels | BajaRon Sway Bar | BajaRon Heim Links | Bump Skid (via SpyderQuest & SpyderPops) | Rivco drink bracket, reversed, with X-Grip for phone holder | BRP Ultra Touring Windshield | Givi Hard Saddlebags | Russell Day-Long Seat

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