valve adjustment

[frankc]

when I bought my rs s dealer said at 21000 miles I would have to have a valve adjustment cost of $1000.00-$1200.00 so I bought the service plan for 6 oil changes and valve adjustment does this sound right or did I get screwed. I already owed a 2008 spyder which no one mention a valve adjustment, which now has 21174 miles with no adjustment thanks in advance

[Chupaca]

valve adjustments are tough call. They used to do them according to schedule but the vast majority did not need them so they changed the schedule. Not sure on the cost which depends on the shop rate at your dealer. It is involved if an adjustment is needed but they give you no reduction in cost if none is made even though its half the work. I use a engine stethescope and compare the sound of all the valve and if none are drastically out I let it be. This is just the way I decide and not to say fool proof. I am also around 21,000 miles and things are fine. The insurance however is a comfort and if affordable not a bad thing especially if you don't do your own work. Good price.....

[bikeguy]

I've adjusted valves many times on my pushrod and rocker arm BMW's but when I bought the 2010 Spyder RT I knew that I didn't have the technical ability or the resources to adjust valves on the Spyder's cup and shim system. That was one of the reasons that I bought a maintenance agreement with mine. While I still think that was the right decision for me, it may not be for everyone. For one thing, I just had mine in for service at 38,000 miles and the valves still needed no adjustment. Overhead cams with cup and shim valve adjustment simply needs much less maintenance than pushrods and rocker arms. I failed to consider that when I bought the maintenance agreement but I still feel better about having the valves checked at BRP recommended service intervals. It just gives me some peace of mind.

The other thing I want to mention is the $1,000.00 - $1,200.00 cost of valve service. As mentioned, I just had a full service at 38,000 miles which included valve adjustment, brake fluid replacement, radiator coolant replacement, spark plug replacement and all the adjustments and checks that BRP recommends at major service intervals. While the maintenance agreement picked up the tab, the price was $608.00. Obviously, service charges will vary at different dealerships but, it is what it is, and the higher service charges are, the more sense it makes to buy the maintenance agreement. As I said, I still think buying the service agreement was the right choice for me since we put quite a few miles on our Spyder but it may or may not be the right choice for you, depending on the cost of the agreement, the cost of service at your dealer and how many miles you ride.

Cotton

[frankc]

forgot to give the price of the plan it was $1299.00 for the 6 oil changes and vavle adjustment

valve adjustments are tough call. They used to do them according to schedule but the vast majority did not need them so they changed the schedule. Not sure on the cost which depends on the shop rate at your dealer. It is involved if an adjustment is needed but they give you no reduction in cost if none is made even though its half the work. I use a engine stethescope and compare the sound of all the valve and if none are drastically out I let it be. This is just the way I decide and not to say fool proof. I am also around 21,000 miles and things are fine. The insurance however is a comfort and if affordable not a bad thing especially if you don't do your own work. Good price.....

[frankc]

thanks for the info according to the dealer book it takes 9 hours at $120 an hour to do the work so maybe I came out alright since I get 6 services along with it

I've adjusted valves many times on my pushrod and rocker arm BMW's but when I bought the 2010 Spyder RT I knew that I didn't have the technical ability or the resources to adjust valves on the Spyder's cup and shim system. That was one of the reasons that I bought a maintenance agreement with mine. While I still think that was the right decision for me, it may not be for everyone. For one thing, I just had mine in for service at 38,000 miles and the valves still needed no adjustment. Overhead cams with cup and shim valve adjustment simply needs much less maintenance than pushrods and rocker arms. I failed to consider that when I bought the maintenance agreement but I still feel better about having the valves checked at BRP recommended service intervals. It just gives me some peace of mind.

The other thing I want to mention is the $1,000.00 - $1,200.00 cost of valve service. As mentioned, I just had a full service at 38,000 miles which included valve adjustment, brake fluid replacement, radiator coolant replacement, spark plug replacement and all the adjustments and checks that BRP recommends at major service intervals. While the maintenance agreement picked up the tab, the price was $608.00. Obviously, service charges will vary at different dealerships but, it is what it is, and the higher service charges are, the more sense it makes to buy the maintenance agreement. As I said, I still think buying the service agreement was the right choice for me since we put quite a few miles on our Spyder but it may or may not be the right choice for you, depending on the cost of the agreement, the cost of service at your dealer and how many miles you ride.

Cotton

[ARtraveler]

As others have mentioned: valve adjustment service is a "owner" call.

I personally had one done on my 2008 at 12,000 miles. Cost $600+ and no adjustments were needed.

Also had a valve adjustment done at 28,000 miles on my 2010. Cost about $800 and no adjustments were needed.

I do not intend any on my 2011--see Chupaca's post above. The 2014 solves the issue--with no valve adjustments required under normal service.

The dealer telling you that you "had" to have the valve adjustment is a bad move--IMO. The price also seems a couple hundred or more high. You will get your money back with the total of 6 oil changes at about $250 to $300 (normal rate).

That smacks of the tire dealers that put the car on the rack, shake the tires, and tell you that you need all kinds of front end work--that is actually not needed. You get the idea, I am sure.