View Poll Results: Given the circumstances, do I buy the 2013 RT-S or hold out for a 2014?

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  • 2013

    21 28.38%
  • 2014

    53 71.62%
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  1. #1
    Member enigmatic biker's Avatar
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    Default 2014 versus 2013 RT-S

    Ok...here is my dilemma. I can get a brand new 2013 RT-S with a SE5 and a 3 year extended warranty for $19,000 asking price. So my question to the members of this forum is this. Is the 2014 model worth the extra $9000?

    I will ride this machine maybe 4000-5000 miles a year tops. In essence, it will be my "summer convertible" to enjoy when the weather is nice. I may go to a national rally once a year and I will need it for 2-up weekend getaways maybe 3 times a riding season. I'd like to ride more, but between the wife and my job demands and other interests, I've never put more than 5k miles on any bike I've owned in a year.

    So talk me off the ledge and convince me the 2014 is a technically and reliably much more superior machine and the extra $10k is money well spent.

    Or, tell me to jump off and buy the 2013 and never look back.

    I appreciate your advice.
    Len

  2. #2
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    Default

    I was in the same situation and went 13 RTs.

  3. #3
    Very Active Member ARtraveler's Avatar
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    Default

    Here are some points to ponder.

    : A savings of $9,000 is some serious money.

    : The 2013 models had some heat issues. You may or may not end up with one of those.

    : New technology on the 2014's. 3 cylinder 1330cc engine vs. 2 cylinder 998cc engine. 6 speed gearbox vs. 5 speed gearbox.

    : More wow posts on the 14's vs. many complaint posts on the 13's.

    Others will come on with ideas. My best suggestion is to test drive and see which one has the best "vibes" (in a good way) for you.

    Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.

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    MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles

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  4. #4
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    Hi Len,
    Well; I'd go for the 2014. They ARE that much better...
    The problem is; there's nothing really wrong with the prior bikes either!
    Since you're paying for the band; it's your call about the music! Happy shopping!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by bcoulter19 View Post
    I was in the same situation and went 13 RTs.
    me too...That's some serious cash savings for other things.

  6. #6
    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default Pockets...!!

    depends on whose pockets your in...with that amount of difference first instinct would be the 2013. But from the explanation you give the 2014 would work better for you due to the maintenance better mileage and othe features. From the fact that you ask for the advise means you could go either way so money is not the main point. One thing is you will change your ryding habits once you start ryding a roadster and that mileage a year will increase as well as the two up ryding. Still your choice and you can't go wrong either way....
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  7. #7
    Very Active Member jaherbst's Avatar
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    With the recalls done the 13 is a great machine. I bought a 2013 RTS SE5 in the fall of 2013 for $19,500 and am happy with it. I pull a trailer and ride in 110 degree heat here in AZ. All spiders produce some heat including the 2014 RT. I rode A 2014 for two days and was considering a trade up. Even the 2014's have there problems and recalls as anything new and mechanical will have.

    If money were no object and I was going to ride 20,000 miles a year the 2014 would be my choice. All other things considered I would buy the 2013 again.

    All Spyders have had heat problems to some degree since 2008. This is not a 2013 problem. 2014 made some improvements to alleviate this.

    Do not get caught up in all the hype and fever when making your choice. Do get the RTS or limited as these have some very good standard equipment that would cost a small fortune to add to the basic RT

    Jack
    All my life I wanted to be somebody, now I realize I should have been more specific.
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  8. #8
    Active Member spyderyderjim's Avatar
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    Default I recommend you buy a 2014 Spyder RT-S SE6

    Quote Originally Posted by enigmatic biker View Post
    Ok...here is my dilemma. I can get a brand new 2013 RT-S with a SE5 and a 3 year extended warranty for $19,000 asking price. So my question to the members of this forum is this. Is the 2014 model worth the extra $9000?

    I will ride this machine maybe 4000-5000 miles a year tops. In essence, it will be my "summer convertible" to enjoy when the weather is nice. I may go to a national rally once a year and I will need it for 2-up weekend getaways maybe 3 times a riding season. I'd like to ride more, but between the wife and my job demands and other interests, I've never put more than 5k miles on any bike I've owned in a year.

    So talk me off the ledge and convince me the 2014 is a technically and reliably much more superior machine and the extra $10k is money well spent.

    Or, tell me to jump off and buy the 2013 and never look back.

    I appreciate your advice.
    Len
    Hi Len,
    I feel you would enjoy many years of trouble free ryding with a 2014 RT-S SE6 Spyder. With about 5,000 miles a year, it would last you a long time!
    Yes it is about $28,000 OTD for a 2014 RT-S SE6, but worth it with the awesome torque of 1330cc in line triple motor, smooth shifting trans, quiet running RT; and NO heat problems of the 2013 RT-S!!! (also the 2013 RT's have a very low trade in value).
    I traded in my 2013 RT-S SE5 on a 2014 RT-S SE6, losing about 10k on trade in.
    But the awesome 2014 Spyder RT-S SE6 is technically, reliable, really that much better RT than a 2013 RT-S!!!
    The 2013 RT-S have a problem with way too much heat under side panels because of the hot exhaust pipes running so close to gas tank & brake master cylinder!!!
    The hot exhaust causes gas to boil in the tank & put out gas fumes on 2013 RT-S.
    The 2014 RT-S has exhaust pipe under the RT and no heat problems!
    (If you don't mind flying to Springfield, Mo, & riding a lot of miles from Springfield, Mo to home, buying a 2014 Spyder RT-S SE6 from Len at Pitbull Powersports & having Lamont's Garage set it up proper for you; Len will give you the best OTD price of any Spyder dealer)!!!
    Any questions about 2014 RT-S SE6 just pm me.
    (I have about 37k trouble free miles on combo 2011 RT-S, 2013 RT-S, & 2014 RT-S).
    Enjoy.
    Jim

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    "Do not get caught up in all the hype and fever when making your choice. Do get the RTS or limited as these have some very good standard equipment that would cost a small fortune to add to the basic RT"

    My Missus told me to get the Limited... She thought that it meant "Limited" farkling opportunities!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  10. #10
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    I have had both and if you know anything about me you know what happened to my 2013 RTS. That said, in your circumstances, given the low miles you put on in a year and the way in which you plan to use the Spyder, I say keep the money in your pocket and buy a 2013. But you need to also know that the 2014 is much, much superior to the 2013.
    2017 F3T-SM6 Squared Away Mirror Wedgies & Alignment
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  11. #11
    Very Active Member jaherbst's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by spyderyderjim View Post
    Hi Len,
    I feel you would enjoy many years of trouble free ryding with a 2014 RT-S SE6 Spyder. With about 5,000 miles a year, it would last you a long time!
    Yes it is about $28,000 OTD for a 2014 RT-S SE6, but worth it with the awesome torque of 1330cc in line triple motor, smooth shifting trans, quiet running RT; and NO heat problems of the 2013 RT-S!!! (also the 2013 RT's have a very low trade in value).
    I traded in my 2013 RT-S SE5 on a 2014 RT-S SE6, losing about 10k on trade in.
    But the awesome 2014 Spyder RT-S SE6 is technically, reliable, really that much better RT than a 2013 RT-S!!!
    The 2013 RT-S have a problem with way too much heat under side panels because of the hot exhaust pipes running so close to gas tank & brake master cylinder!!!
    The hot exhaust causes gas to boil in the tank & put out gas fumes on 2013 RT-S.
    The 2014 RT-S has exhaust pipe under the RT and no heat problems!
    (If you don't mind flying to Springfield, Mo, & riding a lot of miles from Springfield, Mo to home, buying a 2014 Spyder RT-S SE6 from Len at Pitbull Powersports & having Lamont's Garage set it up proper for you; Len will give you the best OTD price of any Spyder dealer)!!!
    (I have about 37k trouble free miles on combo 2011 RT-S, 2013 RT-S, & 2014 RT-S).
    Enjoy.
    Jim

    One question please: If the 2014 runs so much cooler why did you spend the money for a CAT Bypass??
    All my life I wanted to be somebody, now I realize I should have been more specific.
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  12. #12
    Very Active Member ARCTIC's Avatar
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    $9k is too big of a gap. I'd go 2013 or wait until 2014's are being discounted. To me the difference in price would need to be around $3-$4k to spring for the 14
    2017 Chevrolet Camaro SS convertible. 2017 GMC Sierra cc diesel. 2017 Arctic cat RR 137 ES

  13. #13
    Very Active Member PW2013STL's Avatar
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    My response is that I traded a 2013 for a 2014 and do not reqret it at all. This is the way it should have been made from the beginning.
    2021 Sea To Sky, 2020 RTL

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  14. #14
    Very Active Member Mike,P's Avatar
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    Cool

    The 14 is better in just about every category / PERIOD !!! Having said that,, I've put more than a few miles on a 14 and own a 13... My 13 is quicker,, lighter and for me personally the only upside to the 14 is the transmission.. The 15 hp diff in the 14 /13 is ate up by the 60# weight gain..

  15. #15
    Very Active Member Mike,P's Avatar
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    Cool

    I will be on a 1330 when they throw more hp at it

  16. #16
    Very Active Member jcthorne's Avatar
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    Its really a good thing that BRP did not offer the 2014 in blue, I might have had to really consider buying one. Yes, its that big of a deal to me. I could not live with ANY of the colors offered on the 14. Well perhaps Black....maybe. Just not me.

    When we were looking, it was north of 10k difference plus cost to paint all the panels blue, about 2k.

    The difference has fallen a bit as 2013s have recovered a bit in pricing and 14s are being discounted a bit. It will get better when the 15s come out with new and 'better' colors and options. I doubt I have my last Spyder but am enjoying the 13 now that I have my heat mostly under control and suspension upgrades applied. Its always good to see the brand improve each year, just don't get caught up in the hype and spend $$ foolishly. I bet by this time next year, the used market difference between 13s and 14s will be less than 5k.

    If there was a blue one available and I was looking right now, I'd likely try and negotiate a good deal on a 14 RTS vs the 13 but mine was nearly a year ago and a different circumstance.

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  17. #17
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    Default 2013

    $9000 can buy a lot of gas and upgrades seat,shocks etc, with lots leftover don't forget10 months ago this was the best top shelf
    Quote Originally Posted by enigmatic biker View Post
    Ok...here is my dilemma. I can get a brand new 2013 RT-S with a SE5 and a 3 year extended warranty for $19,000 asking price. So my question to the members of this forum is this. Is the 2014 model worth the extra $9000?

    I will ride this machine maybe 4000-5000 miles a year tops. In essence, it will be my "summer convertible" to enjoy when the weather is nice. I may go to a national rally once a year and I will need it for 2-up weekend getaways maybe 3 times a riding season. I'd like to ride more, but between the wife and my job demands and other interests, I've never put more than 5k miles on any bike I've owned in a year.

    So talk me off the ledge and convince me the 2014 is a technically and reliably much more superior machine and the extra $10k is money well spent.

    Or, tell me to jump off and buy the 2013 and never look back.

    I appreciate your advice.
    Len
    2014 rt-s black,bump skid,baja ron swaybar and shock spring adjusters,rivco highway mounts &pegs and trunk flag holders 2014 900 ace renegade

  18. #18
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    Default 2014 versus 2013 RT-S

    I've had my 2013 5+weeks. Ridden in 50,60,70,80 and higher most recent in traffic on Monday. The bike only had 400+ miles on it an now I have 1800 or so and have had no issues with heat. I was told to keep the revs' between 4 and 5 thousand and burn high octane and it took awhile to get use to that but my fuel mileage has been 31+ and so far no issues. The rev issue is relative to fuel mileage probably and not heat but who knows. If no issues this summer, I'll probably wrap the exhaust and try insulating the gas tank this winter just because. I do hear the fuel mileage is much better on the 2014 but I ride for fun not mileage. Good luck and prayer works for me so lift it up for guidance.

  19. #19
    Very Active Member DJFaninTN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mob133 View Post
    $9000 can buy a lot of gas and upgrades seat,shocks etc, with lots leftover don't forget10 months ago this was the best top shelf

    I went for the 13RT Limited back in December. At that time no one really knew much if anything about the 14's. I saved almost $8k and I think I could get more today than what I paid for it back in December. You got to remember that you are sitting on an engine so expect some heat. Our bike has very little heat issues and I added some Baker Airwings and they are amazing. I am looking to remove the airbox and add in JT's air breather kit which should help even more. If needed you can always go for the CAT BYPASS from Lamont.

    Even doing all that plus adding any other farkles (and yes you are going to add a few along the way), you are going to save a ton of money. The 13 pricing has bounced back some. Just remember that whenever you leave the lot on that bike, you just lost money on the resell of it. Just like a brand new car.

    So why not go ride on both bikes and see which one you and your bank account can live with or without?

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by DJFaninTN View Post
    So why not go ride on both bikes and see which one you and your bank account can live with or without?
    Well said!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  21. #21
    Very Active Member Magdave's Avatar
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    The truth is the 2014 IS NOT that much better. If you read here long enough you will find they have as many issues as any year has had. Are they an improvement...maybe, time will tell. They are not faster but they get a few more miles per tank. Properly set up there is nothing wrong with the 2013 and it is a good value. There are a lot of fanboys singing the praises of the 2014 probably to justify paying the price tag. The 2013 IS the 2014 with a 2012 engine in it and a slightly improved radiator system. The 2013 does seem to run hot but things can be done to help that. It's orange juice vs pineapple juice to me. The more I ride my 2013 with the mods I have made the gladder I am I did not jump to a 14 and take the big depreciation. Just my humble opinion. Neither of these bikes are a shorts and flip flop ride proper gear and a few mods and they are pretty equal to me.
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  22. #22
    Active Member Texas's Avatar
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    Len, everyone's situation is different. If money is no object, get the 2014, because there are so many new features, less maintenance, and most likely fewer issues than the 2013. However, most people aren't in a 'money is no object' situation. If you buy a 2013, yes, you will save a lot of money on the front end. Some owners of 2013 models have not reported any issues, and you might get lucky and be one of those people. However, it is a risk, no matter how much research you do. One of the things that some members here don't like to hear is how someone who knew about all of the possible issues with a 2013 bought one, and then gets upset with BRP once they find out their new RT has these issues.

    If I was going to buy a 2013, I would go into it expecting to have every reported issue; and I would only buy it if I had plans on constantly performing modifications to resolve those issues. Some people enjoy a good challenge. Those kind of innovative people are needed to help out the current owners who aren't gifted in that way. However, if you do any major modifications, also be prepared to have issues with your warranty.

    I had thought about these things before buying my 2014 on Feb. 1. I consider myself to be a guy who is up to a good challenge, but I'm also not prepared to spend $15,000++ and have my new RT spend most of the time on a lift instead of out on the open road. All being said, make a decision that works for you, and own your decision.

    Good luck and welcome to the group
    -Texas

  23. #23
    Very Active Member jaherbst's Avatar
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    Truly, I think those with 2013 or prior RTS would be much better informed about at least half of your decision.

    Not sure your are going to make the right decision by listening to all this jabber.

    I think you need to man up and make your own decision and not listen to all these divided opinions. You will only become a bigger vacillator than what you are now.

    Like my father used to always tell me when I asked for advise---do what your heart tells you to. Yes your heart because you need passion to act and then passion to enjoy your decision. Without passion you will never truly enjoy anything. Hard to have a lot of passion when your pocket book is empty.


    Jack
    Last edited by jaherbst; 06-17-2014 at 06:31 PM.
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  24. #24
    Very Active Member Mike,P's Avatar
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    I spent less than $1500 on my pipe,cat delete, belt tensioner,Ron bar and car tires.. It ate up about eight hrs totall of my time installing everything and my hoist did not mind Your results may vary... You can't go wrong with either bike but make your decision based on a looooong test ride on the 13 n 14 back to back

  25. #25
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    The question is similar to whither you upgrade your IOS. The purchase decisions should be based on (1) how you will use the bike; (2) How close are you to a GOOD or better dealer; (3) What can you afford; and (4) what moves your soul. If all the pieces fall into place, personally, I would wait until the fall/winter when the 15's are coming, and the prices are at the lowest level - then (assuming no 13ish issues arise this summer), buy a new '14.

    I've been caught in this loop with prior gen Hardley's, when the dealer will no longer service them - BRPs support is not stellar.....
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