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  1. #1
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    Default Fox adjustable shocks for RT w/ price and PN

    Just so it doesn't get lost in the clutter, here's what I found at the dealers this morning

    My dealer quoted me $500 for the kit (plus installation) and the kit PN is 219400588 Personally, I now have to make up my mind if the difference in cost and the lack of downstream warranty issues is worth it or if going with the higher priced Elkas (which is known to work) is the way to go

    In looking thru the installation instructions, the new Fox shocks seem to be only pre-load adjustable, I see no provision for damping adjustment.
    Last edited by sddinnh; 06-13-2014 at 10:17 AM.

  2. #2
    Very Active Member cuznjohn's Avatar
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    to be honest i would go with the tried and true elkas, for the 100 + i think they are worth it
    NO BIKE AT THIS TIME

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    Very Active Member bluestratos's Avatar
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    I made the mistake of adding elkas before I installed the better sway bar (torque rod) on my 11. The shocks make for a stiffer ride but did not help cornering as I was told. I felt every pebble on the road and pot holes were bone shattering. For racing I like a stiff multi stage shock, for touring not so much. Since 99% of my riding is touring I just went with the sway bar this time on my 14 as the stock shocks are really pretty good. The shocks may look sexy and I will keep an eye out for a hydraulic shock that is of better quality some day but not at the sacrifice of comfort. So many better things to spend the money on....

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    Very Active Member bluestratos's Avatar
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    I made the mistake of adding Elkas before I installed the better sway bar (torque rod) on my 11. The shocks make for a stiffer ride but did not help cornering as I was told. I felt every pebble on the road and pot holes were bone shattering. For racing I like a stiff multi stage shock, for touring not so much. Since 99% of my riding is touring I just went with the sway bar this time on my 14 as the stock shocks are really pretty good. The stock shocks may not look sexy and I will keep an eye out for a hydraulic shock that is of better quality some day but not at the sacrifice of comfort. So many better things to spend the money on....

  5. #5
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    Is it so that installing Elkas must be done professionally? Not just a bolt on item? Is this true with Fox as well?

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    My dealer gave me the installation instructions and they don't look too hard. 4 bolts to take out and 4 new ones to put in.

    To be fair they do say "For safety reasons, this kit must be installed by an authorized BRP dealer"

  7. #7
    Very Active Member mastertek2000's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sddinnh View Post
    My dealer gave me the installation instructions and they don't look too hard. 4 bolts to take out and 4 new ones to put in.

    To be fair they do say "For safety reasons, this kit must be installed by an authorized BRP dealer"
    if you need help you could all ways take a ride down here and i could help you i know when i had my 12 RS i had the fox shocks never needed the swaybar

  8. #8
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SPYD1 View Post
    Is it so that installing Elkas must be done professionally? Not just a bolt on item? Is this true with Fox as well?
    Either shock system can be installed by the owner. I don't believe that the Fox shocks have adjustable valving. Only the spring Pre-Load is adjustable. Where the Elkas have adjustable valving (more adjustment options with the more expensive models). But even these can be owner adjusted if the correct information is applied and adjustments are made properly.

    Still, it is probably a good idea for most to have the Elka's professionally installed so that at least you have accurate adjustments based on Elka research to give you a good baseline starting point to work with if further adjustment refinements are needed.

    But if you don't know what you're doing I would recommend that you leave the valving adjustments alone. If you get these out of whack it can make for a bad ride. Some have even gotten the spring pre-load adjustment wrong (which is actually very simple and designed for owner adjustments).

    The Fox are a decent shock and will definitely give you an upgrade over the stock, OEM RT version. But if the price is close I'd spend a bit more for the Elkas, which are definitely a superior product.
    Last edited by BajaRon; 06-14-2014 at 01:35 PM.
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  9. #9
    Very Active Member bluestratos's Avatar
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    Easy swap out, I take the frunk off to make the install more enjoyable. Elka will sends the shocks custom made to you by weight and riding style. They ask a series of questions when you order. They also give you good advice on how to set the valving and instruction with the bike.

  10. #10
    Very Active Member ulflyer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sddinnh View Post
    Just so it doesn't get lost in the clutter, here's what I found at the dealers this morning

    My dealer quoted me $500 for the kit (plus installation) and the kit PN is 219400588 Personally, I now have to make up my mind if the difference in cost and the lack of downstream warranty issues is worth it or if going with the higher priced Elkas (which is known to work) is the way to go

    In looking thru the installation instructions, the new Fox shocks seem to be only pre-load adjustable, I see no provision for damping adjustment.
    If you want your shocks a bit stiffer, spend $20 for some rubber inserts and give that a try. I cut mine into wedges, four per shock, and it gave me what I wanted. The nice thing about cutting the inserts into small chunks is they are easy to put in, you can add more if you desire, or remove if you want.
    I have some left over and will send you 8 wedges if you want to give them a try. Return if not satisfied.

    If interested, PM your address.
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  11. #11
    Very Active Member ABQSpyder's Avatar
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    Default Confused

    So I'm confused. In your signature you say you have Elka's ?

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    Very Active Member spacetiger's Avatar
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    Springs are what hold you up so you have to get them right. You can do some things to get the oem springs to offer more performance, but in the end, the spring rate doesn't change.

    Extra spacers increases the preload but you can only get so thick of a spacer in there. On my 2012 I tried a spacer; it helped set the sag but could not help max load. I found I still was bottoming out.

    The rubber wedges keep the spring from compressing between the coils they are wedged in between. That can help keep the bike from bottoming out (scraping the bottom of the chin of the bike), but the bike is still is in effect bottoming out as the wedges are simply reducing the amount the springs can compress. The use of rubber reduces (a bit) the impact you and the bike are going to experience every time you hit that new limit. You should know, since the wedges don't change the spring rates, you are going to "bottom out" a lot more often.

    Its best to get your springs rates right. Either buy better after market shocks with better springs or change the springs like I did: http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...ont-Suspension

    Jerry
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  13. #13
    Very Active Member ThreeWheels's Avatar
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    Default I'm surprised by these posts

    To each their own, and of course, my opinion is my very own and no one else's.
    Having said that, I'm surprised at how many people feel the need to upgrade the suspension of their RT's.
    The 2010 was a dog. It needed a lot of work to keep it from rolling around like a sailboat in a storm.
    New shocks and the RonBar were essential, even for daily commuting.
    But the 2014 RT............ Frankly, I think BRP hit a home run. I'm very happy with the stock suspension and I'm putting my mod money into lighting improvements.

    As always, my free advice comes with a double your money back guarantee.
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by ThreeWheels View Post
    To each their own, and of course, my opinion is my very own and no one else's.
    Having said that, I'm surprised at how many people feel the need to upgrade the suspension of their RT's.
    The 2010 was a dog. It needed a lot of work to keep it from rolling around like a sailboat in a storm.
    New shocks and the RonBar were essential, even for daily commuting.
    But the 2014 RT............ Frankly, I think BRP hit a home run. I'm very happy with the stock suspension and I'm putting my mod money into lighting improvements.

    As always, my free advice comes with a double your money back guarantee.
    I have an 2016 rt and found the elka shocks allowed me to ride more aggressive in the corners

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by ThreeWheels View Post
    To each their own, and of course, my opinion is my very own and no one else's.
    Having said that, I'm surprised at how many people feel the need to upgrade the suspension of their RT's.
    The 2010 was a dog. It needed a lot of work to keep it from rolling around like a sailboat in a storm.
    New shocks and the RonBar were essential, even for daily commuting.
    But the 2014 RT............ Frankly, I think BRP hit a home run. I'm very happy with the stock suspension and I'm putting my mod money into lighting improvements.

    As always, my free advice comes with a double your money back guarantee.
    2014 RTL Platinum


  16. #16
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    I just bought a 2013 RTS, how can I tell if the anti swaybar is original or upgraded?

  17. #17
    Very Active Member ARtraveler's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Philmeeker View Post
    I just bought a 2013 RTS, how can I tell if the anti swaybar is original or upgraded?
    This one is from 6/2014

    Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.

    Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)

    MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles

    IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
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