-
Active Member
-
Invalid Emails
By the manual???
Originally Posted by JacqueTanis
New development ... several weeks ago I took a trip - 1200 round trip miles - during and since my bike is using oil like crazy. Can't find any leaks Really confused, we seem to be adding every 150 to 200 miles. The oil barely touches the stick when we check it, husband just added a cup. I am using Amsoil European Car Formula 5W-40 Synthetic Motor Oil. My husband thinks because the oil is so slippery it is not allowing the ringS to seat? He's a wrench but has never used Synthetic Motor Oil and does not have experience with the Spyders, and wants me to find out what you all think ... I have a 2013 ST-L Anyway, HELP!
Are you checking oil level as per instructions in owner's manual? Must follow exactly to get a true read on dipstick. Also consider using oil specifically formulated for motorcycles. AMSOIL has one.
My Motto Is:
Live my life in such a way that when my feet hit the floor in the morning...Satan shudders & says "Oh, crap, SHE'S awake!"
Red Stallion: 2016 F3t SE6 (from Pitbull PowerSports/ Springfield, MO)
White Knight: 2014 RTS SE6 and matching 622 trailer (from Pitbull
PowerSports/ Springfield, MO)
Ms Spydee: 2010 RT SE5
-
We use 10W40 Motorcycle Oil from Amsoil, I don't know if 5W40 is the correct weight. I'm sure someone else will chime in on that. My 2010 and 2013 Spyders would burn a quart of oil in 3,500 miles.
2017 F3T-SM6 Squared Away Mirror Wedgies & Alignment
2014 RTS-SM6 123,600 miles Sold 11/2017
2014 RTL-SE6 8,600 miles
2011 RTS-SM5 5,000 miles
2013 RTS-SM5 burned up with 13,200 miles in 13 weeks
2010 RTS-SM5 59,148 miles
2010 RT- 622
-
Active Member
Originally Posted by murphybrown
Are you checking oil level as per instructions in owner's manual? Must follow exactly to get a true read on dipstick. Also consider using oil specifically formulated for motorcycles. AMSOIL has one.
Yes I am checking the oil level per instructions in owner's manual ... I will check on the oil you mentioned. I'm assuming it's synthetic. Thanks!
-
Very Active Member
OIL
It is possible the Amsoil car oil you have been using might be contributing to your heat problem. Use Amsoil 10W-40 motorcycle oil. I bet you will use less oil and you might even see a difference in the heat.
2020 F3 Ltd
Spyderpops Bumpskid
Spyderpops Brake/Run/Turn Signal LED's
Lamonster Garage LED Fog Lights and Headlights
2013 ST-S retired 1/9/16 at 25,061 miles
2015 F3S sold at 77,565 miles.
-
Motorbike Professor
As was said, be sure you check the oil by the manual.....at full operating temperature (after a ride) and with the dipstick screwed in. The oil you are using does not meet the BRP spec, which calls for a motorcycle oil. That may be adding to your oil usage. The oil should not be labeled for the API-SM rating. Although the spec calls for 5W-40, 10W-40 works acceptably for most of us.
Instead of "uses oil like crazy", it would help to keep track of the amount added and the miles traveled. In case you report it to your dealer, that is information he will need. I would not add oil to a 990 or 991 (V-twin) engine until it reaches the add mark, if you can help it. There is a tendency to blow oil by to the airbox if it is run at or above full. The V-twins do seem to use a little oil. A pint in 1,500-3,000 miles is not unusual at all. Some seem to use more than others.
Last edited by NancysToy; 04-12-2014 at 09:13 PM.
-Scotty
2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
Mutant Trikes Forever!
-
Active Member
Originally Posted by NancysToy
As was said, be sure you check the oil by the manual.....at full operating temperature (after a ride) and with the dipstick screwed in. The oil you are using does not meet the BRP spec, which calls for a motorcycle oil. That may be adding to your oil usage. The oil should not be labeled for the API-SM rating. Although the spec calls for 5W-40, 10W-40 works acceptably for most of us.
Instead of "uses oil like crazy", it would help to keep track of the amount added and the miles traveled. In case you report it to your dealer, that is information he will need. I would not add oil to a 990 or 991 (V-twin) engine until it reaches the add mark, if you can help it. There is a tendency to blow oil by to the airbox if it is run at or above full. The V-twins do seem to use a little oil. A pint in 1,500-3,000 miles is not unusual at all. Some seem to use more than others.
Thank you, I am adding 1/2 pint every 150 to 200 miles. I will purchase AmsOil 10W-40 Synthetic Motorcycle Oil tomorrow and see how it works. Thanks so much ...
-
Motorbike Professor
Originally Posted by JacqueTanis
Thank you, I am adding 1/2 pint every 150 to 200 miles. I will purchase AmsOil 10W-40 Synthetic Motorcycle Oil tomorrow and see how it works. Thanks so much ...
That's quite a bit, more than a quart in a thousand. Let us know how a different oil works out. If there is no change I'd report it to your dealer.
-Scotty
2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
Mutant Trikes Forever!
-
Active Member
[QUOTE=NancysToy;791685]That's quite a bit, more than a quart in a thousand. Let us know how a different oil works out.
I'm going to look in the book for how to change the oil, is it hard? we are going to change the oil, get the old oil out and put the new oil in. I will let you know how it goes ... thanks again!
Last edited by JacqueTanis; 04-12-2014 at 10:03 PM.
-
Very Active Member
OIL CHANGE
Jacque, I hope your first oil change goes better than mine did. Look up Near Disaster on Oil Change in ST shop talk. Use a 6mm hex bit for both plugs and a 5mm bit for the oil and transmission cover screws. Hopefully your dealer didn't put the plugs on so tight that they have to be drilled out. (Ask me how I know!!)
2020 F3 Ltd
Spyderpops Bumpskid
Spyderpops Brake/Run/Turn Signal LED's
Lamonster Garage LED Fog Lights and Headlights
2013 ST-S retired 1/9/16 at 25,061 miles
2015 F3S sold at 77,565 miles.
-
[QUOTE=JacqueTanis;791705]
Originally Posted by NancysToy
That's quite a bit, more than a quart in a thousand. Let us know how a different oil works out.
I'm going to look in the book for how to change the oil, is it hard? we are going to change the oil, get the old oil out and put the new oil in. I will let you know how it goes ... thanks again!
Good Luck! Please let us know how the oil change project turns out!
-
Active Member
Originally Posted by JKMSPYDER
Jacque, I hope your first oil change goes better than mine did. Look up Near Disaster on Oil Change in ST shop talk. Use a 6mm hex bit for both plugs and a 5mm bit for the oil and transmission cover screws. Hopefully your dealer didn't put the plugs on so tight that they have to be drilled out. (Ask me how I know!!)
Thanks so much, we did read your post. John is thinking of changing out the plugs from Electric Allen to Hex because the Allen type strip out too easily.
-
Very Active Member
There you go...!!
Think they have you covered on the measurment and correct oil with hints on oil change. Do have two more... Place the allen wrench in the drain plugs and hit them a few times with a hammer, this helps loosen them up. When changing filters on the SE models remove and replace each filter one at a time to avoid the mixing up of the bolts. They are different lengths and using the wrong one in the wrong place can cause you problems...take your time you'll be fine...
Gene and Ilana De Laney
Mt. Helix, California
2012 RS sm5
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
-
RT-S PE#0060
also use good quality allen wrenches cheap wrenches will damage the oil plugs
-
Active Member
Originally Posted by Chupaca
Think they have you covered on the measurment and correct oil with hints on oil change. Do have two more... Place the allen wrench in the drain plugs and hit them a few times with a hammer, this helps loosen them up. When changing filters on the SE models remove and replace each filter one at a time to avoid the mixing up of the bolts. They are different lengths and using the wrong one in the wrong place can cause you problems...take your time you'll be fine...
My husband did the oil change today. He removed the Allen drain plug and replaced with Hex drain plugs. He's happy with them. I'm not a wrench so if he's happy I'm happy ... lol
-
-
Very Active Member
Originally Posted by NancysToy
As was said, be sure you check the oil by the manual.....at full operating temperature (after a ride) and with the dipstick screwed in. The oil you are using does not meet the BRP spec, which calls for a motorcycle oil. That may be adding to your oil usage. The oil should not be labeled for the API-SM rating. Although the spec calls for 5W-40, 10W-40 works acceptably for most of us.
Instead of "uses oil like crazy", it would help to keep track of the amount added and the miles traveled. In case you report it to your dealer, that is information he will need. I would not add oil to a 990 or 991 (V-twin) engine until it reaches the add mark, if you can help it. There is a tendency to blow oil by to the airbox if it is run at or above full. The V-twins do seem to use a little oil. A pint in 1,500-3,000 miles is not unusual at all. Some seem to use more than others.
I use 10W-40 Amsoil on both my SM-5 2011 RS-S and 2013 RT-S and they do well on oil, shifting is smooth and the engine runs cool. I usually carry a quart on long rides (300 miles one way), and between both Spyders I use very little of it.
May all your encounters with the law begin with the words: "nice trike!".[/B]
2015 Can-Am Spyder F3-S SM-6 Can-am Red/Black SM-6 with 2010 Black RT-622 trailer (hitch in the works).
Previously owned:
2010 Can-Am Spyder RT SM-5
2011 Can-Am Spyder RS-S SM-5
2013 Can-Am Spyder RT-S SM-5
-
Active Member
-
Approaching 31 years of wedded.... Bliss!
-
Registered Users
Does anyone know what the actual length of the bolts are for each filter on a 2010 RTS SE5?? I have a slight leak and it could be I've mixed up the bolts.
-
Very Active Member
I use full synth 5W40 Motul ... great stuff made for motorcycles.
and sticking with the recommended weight. the BRP stuff is I think 5W40 semi synth for their summer kit and their winter kit has I thnk 5W40 full syth oil.
the bolts are not HEX but are TORX bolts.... either way better to switch the drain plugs to HEX head bolts. easier to get off and easier to torque to 20 nm when you put back.
2013 Yellow ST-S SM5, Elka Stage1 Rear Shock, 2Brothers Exhaust, K&N Air Filter(soon), TricLED fnt fender LEDs, frnt LED daylight strips, 3rd Rear brake LED, ISCI Hand Brake, BajaRon Sway Bar&Links, Bullant Laser Aligned, Lamont's CAT ByPass, CALSCI Windshield, Works Performance Stage 5 Front Shocks
Previous = 2010 Blue RT-S Spyder SM5
-
Active Member
Originally Posted by clueless
I use full synth 5W40 Motul ... great stuff made for motorcycles.
and sticking with the recommended weight. the BRP stuff is I think 5W40 semi synth for their summer kit and their winter kit has I thnk 5W40 full syth oil.
the bolts are not HEX but are TORX bolts.... either way better to switch the drain plugs to HEX head bolts. easier to get off and easier to torque to 20 nm when you put back.
John say you are correct - he removed TORX bolts from my machine and replaced them with HEX Head Bolts.
-
Originally Posted by JRWW
Does anyone know what the actual length of the bolts are for each filter on a 2010 RTS SE5?? I have a slight leak and it could be I've mixed up the bolts.
On my 2013 RS-S SE-5, the trans filter cover uses M6x35 socket head screws (short filter) and the engine filter cover uses M6x30 screws (long filter).
Forum
ST Shop Talk
Average Miles Before Having to Add Oil? My machine is sucking it down ...
Posting Permissions
- You may not post new threads
- You may not post replies
- You may not post attachments
- You may not edit your posts
-
Forum Rules
|