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  1. #1
    Very Active Member DriftersWay's Avatar
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    Default Compressor cycling

    Upon taking the Spyder on it's maiden ride this week, I heard some strange random sounds cycling from the suspension area. Apparently my compressor was just cycling at random every 15 - 30 seconds for 1 - 3 seconds. My dealer thinks it may be a loose hose fitting, bladder or bad compressor. Unfortunately my dealer is booked solid for 2 weeks and suggested I leave it at the dealership and when he has an opportunity he will squeeze it in sometime in 2 weeks. That offer was unacceptable, missing up to 2 weeks of riding, I decided to try to repair it myself.

    Since I really don't change the compressor setting, I leave it on high 100% of the time, I would convert it to manual adjustment. I pulled the R1 relay, disabling the compressor and filled the shock manually thru the air valve under the seat to 70#. The pressure held overnight until I started it in gear with the parking brake off. The pressure went immediately to "0". I really want to ride the Spyder to our meeting next week but not with "0" pressure in the shock. Anybody have any thoughts?
    2022 F3 Limited , Monolith Black / Dark

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by DriftersWay View Post
    Upon taking the Spyder on it's maiden ride this week, I heard some strange random sounds cycling from the suspension area. Apparently my compressor was just cycling at random every 15 - 30 seconds for 1 - 3 seconds. My dealer thinks it may be a loose hose fitting, bladder or bad compressor. Unfortunately my dealer is booked solid for 2 weeks and suggested I leave it at the dealership and when he has an opportunity he will squeeze it in sometime in 2 weeks. That offer was unacceptable, missing up to 2 weeks of riding, I decided to try to repair it myself.

    Since I really don't change the compressor setting, I leave it on high 100% of the time, I would convert it to manual adjustment. I pulled the R1 relay, disabling the compressor and filled the shock manually thru the air valve under the seat to 70#. The pressure held overnight until I started it in gear with the parking brake off. The pressure went immediately to "0". I really want to ride the Spyder to our meeting next week but not with "0" pressure in the shock. Anybody have any thoughts?
    I would check fittings like suggested. Also 100% seems pretty firm to me. I usually Ryde at middle to lower bars for comfort but we have pothole central here too

  3. #3
    Motorbike Professor NancysToy's Avatar
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    Default

    Because it goes through the cluster, I cannot say with certainty that the air release solenoid operates through R1, although it does appear to be powered through the R1 coil. What you are describing certainly sounds like the solenoid releasing the air. I can't think of any other way to attack the problem, unless you unhook the wiring to the solenoid.

    I agree that 100% is a bit stiff for a medium weight solo rider. Be aware that it can cause rear shock damage if the shock tops out. They have revised the rear shock and the ACS settings to reduce the possibility after many shock failures on the 2010 RTs, but damage is still possible when using maximum settings with less than the maximum cargo aboard.
    -Scotty
    2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
    2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
    2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder



    Mutant Trikes Forever!

  4. #4
    Very Active Member DriftersWay's Avatar
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    Thanks all. Now I can go to work.

    Butch
    2022 F3 Limited , Monolith Black / Dark

  5. #5
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    Default Question is....

    Do you really want to keep waiting for a pump to fail. I'm at that place myself. Bought an after market really cheap. Before I installed I bought a battery powered hand pump. They sell for about $40. As of now I simply raise the seat. service the air valve to about 50 psi and I'm golden for about 2 days. Guess I just have to get off my butt and do the replacement. Thing that bothers me is why does it lose air pressure to begin with. I've read where people have used the Green Slime to stop leaks but it seems once it' s in there you may have a real mess. Other thing is why not just change out the rear spring and do a hard tail. Just my thoughts..... Good luck

  6. #6
    Very Active Member Roadster Renovations's Avatar
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    If it held air overnight, then lost it all when starting and in gear, it does not sound like a loose fitting. Since it is electronic in nature (has to be running to occur) I would check for a faulty or disconnected air ryde sensor or a faulty dump valve.
    The dump valve is located on the right side close to the compressor. You can gain access from pulling the side panels.
    The air ryde height sensor is on the left side close to where the swing arm starts. Pay particular attention that the arm is connected to the unit and the swing arm. Based upon where the arm is located at any one time the computer will either dump air (dump valve) or add air.

    Good luck!

  7. #7
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    Default Manually airing up RTS & RTL with failed compressor

    When my air compressor failed last year my acted the same way...I had to disconnect the wiring plug at the ACS solenoid to keep the air in that I installed manually...I have since put a quick disconnect under the seat...If I have a air compressor failure on the road I can manually air up the bag with my portable compressor...(When riding double you cannot ride without air in the bag)

  8. #8
    Very Active Member Roadster Renovations's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by larryd View Post
    When my air compressor failed last year my acted the same way...I had to disconnect the wiring plug at the ACS solenoid to keep the air in that I installed manually...I have since put a quick disconnect under the seat...If I have a air compressor failure on the road I can manually air up the bag with my portable compressor...(When riding double you cannot ride without air in the bag)
    We make a Spring Stiffener that works on the rear spring that helps to lighten the load on the airbag. We have road ours without the airbag with them in place. You need at least 2 of them. 2 up the wife and I are very close to maxing out the weight, so other that weigh less do well with this system.

  9. #9
    Registered Users bandwagon's Avatar
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    Default Warranty Question

    I have a 2014 RT with 5 year warranty and just put it in the shop because of compressor and air bag not holding air. Are those things considered normal wear (30,000miles) or is it a warranty issue? Thanks and Doc how much for the stiffeners?

    Quote Originally Posted by Doc Humphreys View Post
    We make a Spring Stiffener that works on the rear spring that helps to lighten the load on the airbag. We have road ours without the airbag with them in place. You need at least 2 of them. 2 up the wife and I are very close to maxing out the weight, so other that weigh less do well with this system.

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