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  1. #1
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    Default are there any diffences between 2012 and 2013 RTS except for heat issues

    Hi all,
    i'm looking to buy another RTS, but can not afford a 2014(i wish thou) so is there any real differences between a 2013 and 2012. I am looking for some of your thoughts

    Thank you in advance
    Ruth

  2. #2
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    For 2013, frame is different, battery is up front, shocks at a different angle but no longer adjustable, front trunk size is smaller, front wheels 15" with low profile tires, Bremo brakes. I'm sure there are others, but those are the main things I can think of.

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    Default Changes

    Quote Originally Posted by NancysToy View Post
    For 2013, frame is different, battery is up front, shocks at a different angle but no longer adjustable, front trunk size is smaller, front wheels 15" with low profile tires, Bremo brakes. I'm sure there are others, but those are the main things I can think of.
    Also floor boards on se5s

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    "13" is much better handling. IMHO.

    Chris

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    The 2012, as Roger mentioned; has been the least problematic of the first version RTs.
    The 2013s were transitional... and they definitely had some problems to sort out!
    BUT...
    If you can find a 2013 that has had all of the updates completed, and has shown no additional problems with heat; on the rider, or on the components... it's a winner!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

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    If you are buying and can get a really good deal on the 13 by all means do it.

    Here is why and what will fix your issues with the heat;

    1.) Remove the CAT put a crossover pipe on. $400.00-475.00
    2.) Make sure the machine a has had the ECU remap and updates... $0
    3.) Get rid of the stock ari cleaner and plastic monstrousity and replace with Kewl Metal air filter. $252.00
    4.) Order and put on the Viritka Trike air intake body Panels $1000.00 with shipping then add Another $350.00 for paint or Hydro-graphics. $1350.00/set
    5.) Order and put on Heat wrap for the muffler and header pipes under the tupperware as well heat shield around the gas tank and brake master cylinder. $275.00
    6.) Order a set of Elka Shocks from PitBull Motor Sports setup Stage + rebound $695.00 shipped to your door and all setup for your style of riding.
    7.) Baja Rons Sway Bar kit $219.00

    So figure Close to $3000.00 and the 13 will be outstanding and if you can reel in great deal on a 13 you will be good to go no heat issues better performance and handling and reliability.

    By the way thank you for what you do for our Veterans that is OUTSTANDING! Feel free to PM me on my mods to make my Spyder cool running and better handling.
    Last edited by Ramjet; 03-09-2014 at 10:10 AM.

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    I don't know that any of us had any idea we were buying a "transitional bike" at the time we purchased our 2013s. With that said, I have to say that I have not had the heat problems others have had. No melted components, no codes, no burned thighs, and she never left me by the side of the road. All I have experienced is a little right foot heart that was common to all the pre-2014 models. My beef is that my machine is painted with the same brush as ALL 2013s and now we have long time Spyder riders telling folks to steer clear of 2013s. Makes me feel like, if I were to attend Spyderfest, they would have a special parking area for 2013s so they wouldn't be with the "real Spyders". Oh well, once the weather warms and I can get out and ride, my attitude will most certainly approve! If ya get a good deal on a '13, … Good luck!

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    Quote Originally Posted by JkRbbt View Post
    . . . My beef is that my machine is painted with the same brush as ALL 2013s and now we have long time Spyder riders telling folks to steer clear of 2013s. Makes me feel like, if I were to attend Spyderfest, they would have a special parking area for 2013s so they wouldn't be with the "real Spyders". . . .
    As I've gotten older, I've learned not to care so much what others think they know . . . if you are happy with your 2013 (as I am with mine, even with some heat issues) that is all that matters . . . ride it, enjoy it, and ignore the naysayers . . . unless they have or had a 2013, they don't know what they are talking about.
    2013 RT Limited , White (the fastest color!)

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    I really didnm't use the term, "transitional", as a derogative one.
    It just seemed the best way to explain that BRP was preparring for the new Triple, and the 2013 RTs had a mix of old, and new in it...
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    I really didnm't use the term, "transitional", as a derogative one.
    It just seemed the best way to explain that BRP was preparring for the new Triple, and the 2013 RTs had a mix of old, and new in it...
    I understand, Bob. I didn't take "transitional" as derogatory, but I do agree that we got a mixed bag without really knowing what we were getting. I thought I was getting an improvement to the 2012 with new suspension/brakes/wheels… Silly me! I do hope ya'll have good luck with the '14s and it's nice to see BRP parachuting in to solve problems. Didn't see that so much on the '13s. More cloak and dagger, don't talk about any problems type approach. Maybe we are all learning. Hope so! I'd like to see a trouble free '15/'16'… in my future! Cheers!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ramjet View Post
    If you are buying and can get a really good deal on the 13 by all means do it.

    Here is why and what will fix your issues with the heat;

    1.) Remove the CAT put a crossover pipe on. $400.00-475.00
    2.) Make sure the machine a has had the ECU remap and updates... $0
    3.) Get rid of the stock ari cleaner and plastic monstrousity and replace with Kewl Metal air filter. $252.00
    4.) Order and put on the Viritka Trike air intake body Panels $1000.00 with shipping then add Another $350.00 for paint or Hydro-graphics. $1350.00/set
    5.) Order and put on Heat wrap for the muffler and header pipes under the tupperware as well heat shield around the gas tank and brake master cylinder. $275.00
    6.) Order a set of Elka Shocks from PitBull Motor Sports setup Stage + rebound $695.00 shipped to your door and all setup for your style of riding.
    7.) Baja Rons Sway Bar kit $219.00

    So figure Close to $3000.00 and the 13 will be outstanding and if you can reel in great deal on a 13 you will be good to go no heat issues better performance and handling and reliability.

    By the way thank you for what you do for our Veterans that is OUTSTANDING! Feel free to PM me on my mods to make my Spyder cool running and better handling.
    That list is by no means required to "fix" the 13 models to make them nice bikes.

    1) Absolutely not required but could benefit with performance gains.
    2) This is a must and should be performed by the dealer as this is a warranty campaign
    3) This is not required either. Some do it and some don't.
    4) Although cool these are expensive and will help, but your wallet will hurt.
    5) Most have done this and it's affordable and does help and unlike the others that may or may not affect your warranty?
    6) Not needed either but there are huge improvements to be had here!
    7) See 6

    Although the summer time temps are not here I believe the latest ECM update has made a huge leap in fixing the heat issues with the 13 model. I do have my pipes wrapped but have not yanked out the cat or the stock air box. Thats is not saying I wont in the future but it will be for performance gains not as a solution to the heat issues. With the proper update from BRP the 13 models should perform as intended in bone stock condition.
    Last edited by 3 Wheel Addict; 03-09-2014 at 01:48 PM.

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    I sure am glad to hear that there have been improvements in the affected bikes!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

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    You can find NEW 2012's still out there - and, if I were looking, that would be my choice. The 2014 jury IS still out, and the price difference is significant. Best of all, you don't need to spend $3000 to fix issues that shouldn't have been there in the first place. JMHO

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    ...But if you can find a 2013 that's had all (or most!), of the work done...
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

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    Wow! Did this get off track. The OP asked for the differences between 2012 and 2013...not a discussion on the "fixes" or the merits of one vs. the other, or the difficulties with the 2013. Let's reel this back in and help the OP out.

    Thanks for the reminder of the floorboards on the SE, I forgot about those.

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    I have a 2012 LT I live in south tx gulf coast it get hot down here. I am very happy with my spyder if you can find one 2012 I would say get it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 3 Wheel Addict View Post
    That list is by no means required to "fix" the 13 models to make them nice bikes.

    1) Absolutely not required but could benefit with performance gains.
    2) This is a must and should be performed by the dealer as this is a warranty campaign
    3) This is not required either. Some do it and some don't.
    4) Although cool these are expensive and will help, but your wallet will hurt.
    5) Most have done this and it's affordable and does help and unlike the others that may or may not affect your warranty?
    6) Not needed either but there are huge improvements to be had here!
    7) See 6

    Although the summer time temps are not here I believe the latest ECM update has made a huge leap in fixing the heat issues with the 13 model. I do have my pipes wrapped but have not yanked out the cat or the stock air box. Thats is not saying I wont in the future but it will be for performance gains not as a solution to the heat issues. With the proper update from BRP the 13 models should perform as intended in bone stock condition.


    I am just just sharing my experience you do what you want....

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by NancysToy View Post
    For 2013, frame is different, battery is up front, shocks at a different angle but no longer adjustable, front trunk size is smaller, front wheels 15" with low profile tires, Bremo brakes. I'm sure there are others, but those are the main things I can think of.
    Quote Originally Posted by Oklahoma Spyder View Post
    Also floor boards on se5s
    Also the front fender style changed for the RT-S and RT-Limited.
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    Quote Originally Posted by NancysToy View Post
    Wow! Did this get off track. The OP asked for the differences between 2012 and 2013...not a discussion on the "fixes" or the merits of one vs. the other, or the difficulties with the 2013. Let's reel this back in and help the OP out.

    Thanks for the reminder of the floorboards on the SE, I forgot about those.

    Would it it have been more prudent to say that the 2013 has many shortcomings and the fixes are required to make the bike run at reasonable temperature?

    I was was putting it out there so the person could have the benefit of first hand experience where they can make an informed decision. Sorry I did not wave the Pom poms saying everything was just great.


    It seems many on this site are so enamored and loyal to BRP they have hard time dealing with reality. Or are offended by it?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ramjet View Post
    Would it it have been more prudent to say that the 2013 has many shortcomings and the fixes are required to make the bike run at reasonable temperature?

    I was was putting it out there so the person could have the benefit of first hand experience where they can make an informed decision. Sorry I did not wave the Pom poms saying everything was just great.


    It seems many on this site are so enamored and loyal to BRP they have hard time dealing with reality. Or are offended by it?
    "are there any differences between 2012 and 2013 RTS except for heat issues" Original Question???

    Mr. Ramjet, The poster started his post with the above statement in the lead Line Sooo he realized the heat issues and wanted advice on the differences- NOT a $3,000 cure to the Hit or Miss heat issues?

    2015 F3 sm6, Custom Dynamics fender lights.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge707 View Post
    "are there any differences between 2012 and 2013 RTS except for heat issues" Original Question???

    Mr. Ramjet, The poster started his post with the above statement in the lead Line Sooo he realized the heat issues and wanted advice on the differences- NOT a $3,000 cure to the Hit or Miss heat issues?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge707 View Post
    "are there any differences between 2012 and 2013 RTS except for heat issues" Original Question???

    Mr. Ramjet, The poster started his post with the above statement in the lead Line Sooo he realized the heat issues and wanted advice on the differences- NOT a $3,000 cure to the Hit or Miss heat issues?

    Well you will notice all my suggestions were not only to address a "heat issue" also some issues with handling especially seeing the machine has non-adjustable shocks so please save your inconsequential opinions of my post to yourself.

    The mods I suggested (and have done to my 2013 RT) will make the 2013 a better machine. They all are hot the heat trapped within the confines of the engine compartment will over time cause allot of issues to include but not limited to hoses getting hard and brittle boiling gas and breakdown of electrical wires.

    So again you can put on your cheerleading skirts and don your pom poms but the issues are real and they are possible with any 2013 machine but luckily there are fixes those fixes cost and it is fair to let someone know the potential costs.

    Also in fairness you picked this fight I just made few suggestions and you jumped all over me for that....

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    Default Thank You All For Your Input and Opinons

    The reason i asked about differences was i looked at a brand new 2013 RTS and a used (4000miles)2012 RT~limited for the exact same price of $18,000 and thought i would go with the.......2012 limited.
    Thanks for all the replys and this site Rocks for info.

    Ruth

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    Default Before we bought our 13' we drove a 12 as well, and

    in my opinion the 13' handled much better, stopped much better and since we went with the SE5, the floor boards are a really welcome addition to the 13' as well. At the time the 12' had a discount that was attractive, but we opted for the 13'. In addition to what others have mentioned, I also believe the 13' had a tighter belt tension spec.-Ride Safe and good luck!!

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by JkRbbt View Post
    I don't know that any of us had any idea we were buying a "transitional bike" at the time we purchased our 2013s. With that said, I have to say that I have not had the heat problems others have had. No melted components, no codes, no burned thighs, and she never left me by the side of the road. All I have experienced is a little right foot heart that was common to all the pre-2014 models. My beef is that my machine is painted with the same brush as ALL 2013s and now we have long time Spyder riders telling folks to steer clear of 2013s. Makes me feel like, if I were to attend Spyderfest, they would have a special parking area for 2013s so they wouldn't be with the "real Spyders". Oh well, once the weather warms and I can get out and ride, my attitude will most certainly approve! If ya get a good deal on a '13, … Good luck!

    I too had a great 2013 with none of the problems, but was painted with the same brush and did not get a great trade in because of the bad publicity, the 2013 that I had was a great machine and i liked it better than the 2012 that i had, which was also a good machine.

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