Battery terminal question onn 2012 RTS

[Ex-Rocket]

I was in the process to connect a Battery Tender Jr. to the battery posts. I had no trouble connecting to the Positive battery post and I seem to have a problem with the negitive battery post. The positive post has a threaded nut that is approximately 1 inch long but the negitive post has a bolt. Here is my problem. I turned and turned the bolt on the negitive post and it won't come off. Then I tried to tighten it and now it won't tighten. What the heck I'm I doing wrong on the negitive post???? Please help.

[Jeriatric]

Oops! You just commited a no no. Someone who has been there done that will explain further.

[Bob Denman]

Just plug the Tender into the jack in the top trunk...

[Ex-Rocket]

Ok, so I f'd up, so what is the solution? I'd like some informative action from somebody that knows. I don't have a plug to go in the jack in the trunk.

[lwrydr]

I bought a plug frow the local Auto Supply store and some small jumper wires to go from the tender to the plug, it all works great.

[Barlock]

Are you talking about connecting to a battery, or the terminals under the seat? I haven't done it myself, but I've read someone's post about it. If I'm not mistaken there is a square nut on the other side of that bolt (a terminal under the seat) that once loosened rotates on the bolt. You need to reach under and either grab that nut of fix it somehow, and then tighten the bolt and never touch it again. I had my dealer connect my tender pig-tail stright to the battery terminals.

[bluestratos]

There is a standard metric nut that takes a #10 wrench. If you find a cheap 10, say from an old motorcycle kit, you can put a bend on it to reach up blindly from below and hold the nut while you tighten it from above. It is tight but there is just enough room to push down beside the offending bolt and then by feel put the open end on to the nut. The bend is less than 90 degrees to allow you to reach it. After 3 years of production BRP still has not put a warning sticker next to this negative which everyone assumes it is a good point to ground to.

[Ex-Rocket]

There is a standard metric nut that takes a #10 wrench. If you find a cheap 10, say from an old motorcycle kit, you can put a bend on it to reach up blindly from below and hold the nut while you tighten it from above. It is tight but there is just enough room to push down beside the offending bolt and then by feel put the open end on to the nut. The bend is less than 90 degrees to allow you to reach it. After 3 years of production BRP still has not put a warning sticker next to this negative which everyone assumes it is a good point to ground to.

I guess I assumed wrong when I did it. I guess I'll have to remove some tupperware to get to the nut on the other side of the bolt. This could be fun cause I haven't removed any tupperware before.

[Ex-Rocket]

Are you talking about connecting to a battery, or the terminals under the seat? I haven't done it myself, but I've read someone's post about it. If I'm not mistaken there is a square nut on the other side of that bolt (a terminal under the seat) that once loosened rotates on the bolt. You need to reach under and either grab that nut of fix it somehow, and then tighten the bolt and never touch it again. I had my dealer connect my tender pig-tail stright to the battery terminals.

It was to the terminals under the seat, not the battery itself.

[Bob Denman]

HINT: Your manual has excellent instructions on removing the bodywork.

[MarkLawson]

Be careful with that 10mm wrench. There is a fuse box right there and you WILL arc against the hot side of that fuse box. Best to move it out of the way first. I have a notched Craftsman 10mm wrench to show for it.

On my 2010 RT, I found that the hole that bolt goes through is already threaded! You might decide, as I did to go ahead and buy the proper sized metric bolt that fits that threaded hole. As I did this in early 2010, I don't recall the proper sized bolt. I went to Home Depot and bought several bolts around the size it looked and bigger than the one I removed. One of them fit. If you do, you'll need to put a larger connector on at least one of the ground wires that connect at that bolt. Scotty (Nancy's Toy) says to NOT use thread lock on that bolt because it is not a good conductor. I did use thread lock & have had no negative consequences to my knowledge. If I had to do it over again, I would have followed Scotty's advice, as he is far more knowledgeable about all things mechanical, electrical than I. I had already done it before I posted about it Scotty responded with his warning. I'm guessing a lock washer would be a better solution.

[NancysToy]

Your mistake was that you did not attempt to connect to the battery terminals...you used the jump start terminals (under the seat for 2012 and prior). You really should connect such harnesses directly to the battery terminals, under the left rear side body panel. After you get to the nut on the negative jumper post, go to the other side and do it right.

[jerpinoy]

You should be careful not to arc; wrap your 10mm with electrical tape.

[ABQAndy]

You need to remove some tupperware and get directly into the battery and hook directly to the battery terminals. Takes a little extra time but it is the proper way. I made the same mistake you did the first time I tried to hook up my tender. Or you can get a 12v plug adapter and plug it into the plug in in the trunk, much easier.

[Spyder4Tess]

How about just using the big clips that come with the tender on the jump start posts?

[MarkLawson]

How about just using the big clips that come with the tender on the jump start posts?

That would work.

[bruiser]

How about just using the big clips that come with the tender on the jump start posts?

That's what I do.

Phil, star washers are best for ground connections.

[NancysToy]

You should be careful not to arc; wrap your 10mm with electrical tape.

That one is a ground cable, so it won't arc at the tool when you accidentlattly touch the frame.

[bluestratos]

No tupperware is necessary to get to the nut if you use the bent wrench, just lift the seat.

I guess I assumed wrong when I did it. I guess I'll have to remove some tupperware to get to the nut on the other side of the bolt. This could be fun cause I haven't removed any tupperware before.

[BMWpilot]

I guess I assumed wrong when I did it. I guess I'll have to remove some tupperware to get to the nut on the other side of the bolt. This could be fun cause I haven't removed any tupperware before.

Once I removed the panel(s) in the way I used a pair of pliers holding onto a 10mm wrench. That's enough to hold the nut still while you tighten it back down. I made the same mistake before I reading about it being a no-no on this forum.

[Ex-Rocket]

How about just using the big clips that come with the tender on the jump start posts?

I wanted to install something more permanent, so all I would have to do is plug the two connectors together to charge the battery.

[Ex-Rocket]

[QUOTE=NancysToy;726484]Your mistake was that you did not attempt to connect to the battery terminals...you used the jump start terminals (under the seat for 2012 and prior). You really should connect such harnesses directly to the battery terminals, under the left rear side body panel. After you get to the nut on the negative jumper post, go to the other side and do it right.[Quote ]
I will do it right the next go around. I just didn't know any better.

[Jeriatric]

[QUOTE=Ex-Rocket;726373]Ok, so I f'd up, so what is the solution? I'd like some informative action from somebody that knows. I don't have a plug to go in the jack in the trunk.[/QUOTE


https://www.google.com/search?redir_...=1386036344789

[Spyder4Tess]

I wanted to install something more permanent, so all I would have to do is plug the two connectors together to charge the battery.

Sure,that would be the best way.

[Wiredux]

How about just using the big clips that come with the tender on the jump start posts?

This is what I am doing until I get my new one. Then I will attach it directly to the batt and use quick connect.