Evap cannister

[bhfromme]

The dealer here charges an hour labor ($95 IIRC) to diagnose. However, they apply that hour toward the labor for the repair if they do the work.

I don't know about removing/replacing the tupperware on the RT but changing out the canister on an RS takes about 15 minutes....no joke.

I'd expect to pay an hour labor ($95) plus whatever the part cost ($67 or so) for having the dealer replace the canister.

What I didn't mention in my first post is that the canister needed to be replaced because of a defective purge valve.I paid 74 for the canister, 50 for the purge valve and 20 for new spark plugs. But the 2.5 hours of labor was the killer.

Not trying to nickel dime anyone but they charged me an hour for diagnosing the problem then another 1.5 hours to do the repair. Is that reasonable? Maybe I should have squawked but I value my relationship with them so I just paid it and kept my mouth shut.

Oh Scotty, In your opinion is it safe to run the Spyder with no evap canister?

[HuckFin]

I posted a solution a long time ago that both solved the problem and was easily reversible to comply with anyone looking at your Spyder with thoughts about DENYING your WARRANTY. .....You put an automotive plastic " T " on the line that went to the cannister then put an extension line straight down away from anything hot and this prevents any gas overflow from reaching the cannister. For the upright part of the " T " you then put in a small piece of tube and connected that to the orig. fitting on the cannister.........So you still have fume scavenging with the cannister but it is IMPOSSIBLE to get any FUEL/GAS into the cannister because of the " T "..........NOTE THE " T " HAS TO BE BELOW THE BOTTOM OF THE CANNISTER FOR THIS TO WORK......It's very easy to remove for inspection and just a couple of $'s..........I have done this to both my Spyders and No problems with smell or anything else in the past 20,000 + miles ...Mike

Thanks much. Your solution is the best idea I've heard so far.

[jcthorne]

My gas fumes when sitting in traffic have gotten ridiculous. Dealer says nothing wrong. BS

Canister is being removed and pipes wrapped along with a converterectomy over the holidays or next few weekends. Unfortunate that I have to take matters in my own hands but if BRP will not or cannot fix it, I will so I can ride it. The weather is cool so its not hot weather, just exhaust heat on the underside of the tank. Poor design.

[Bob Denman]

No help to you, but they DID move things around on the 2014s. PIMS NYC 012.jpg
Good luck on your project; please let us know how it turns out!

[Jeriatric]

No help to you, but they DID move things around on the 2014s. PIMS NYC 012.jpg
Good luck on your project; please let us know how it turns out!

Somethings missing in this picture. Guess what?

[Questions]

Is anyone that are carefully filling their Spyder getting over 100 + miles to the tank ? I have a 2013 RT LTD and I'm getting about 22 miles a gallon. Anyone getting any better than this and if so HOW ?

[SPYD3R]

for those of you who are interested in more discussion on the CANISTER BYPASS, here is a link:
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...annisterectomy

043.jpg

[NancysToy]

Is anyone that are carefully filling their Spyder getting over 100 + miles to the tank ? I have a 2013 RT LTD and I'm getting about 22 miles a gallon. Anyone getting any better than this and if so HOW ?

Most of us do. If you are getting only 22 mpg you likely have something wrong. For an unmodified Spyder, typical mileage is 27-32. Plug wires are the first thing I would suspect, followed by a faulty purge valve. Beyond that it gets complicated...requiring compression tests and some serious troubleshooting/experimenting to pin down the cause. BRP considers anything from something like 18 mpg and up to be "normal", so you won't get any free help from your dealer.

[jaherbst]

The dealer here charges an hour labor ($95 IIRC) to diagnose. However, they apply that hour toward the labor for the repair if they do the work.

I don't know about removing/replacing the tupperware on the RT but changing out the canister on an RS takes about 15 minutes....no joke.

I'd expect to pay an hour labor ($95) plus whatever the part cost ($67 or so) for having the dealer replace the canister.

Your lucky, Ride Now Sports which is a monopoly in Arizona and the only BRP dealer in Tucson Az charges $130 per hour.

Jack

[stewartj239]

for those of you who are interested in more discussion on the CANISTER BYPASS, here is a link:
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...annisterectomy

Thanks for this link. I currently have my Spyder torn apart and was looking for the best way to eliminate this. If I have any questions, I'll post them to the linked thread.

[Bob Denman]

Somethings missing in this picture. Guess what?

Okay; I'll bite...

What?

[SPYD3R]

I posted a solution a long time ago that both solved the problem and was easily reversible to comply with anyone looking at your Spyder with thoughts about DENYING your WARRANTY. .....You put an automotive plastic " T " on the line that went to the cannister then put an extension line straight down away from anything hot and this prevents any gas overflow from reaching the cannister. For the upright part of the " T " you then put in a small piece of tube and connected that to the orig. fitting on the cannister.........So you still have fume scavenging with the cannister but it is IMPOSSIBLE to get any FUEL/GAS into the cannister because of the " T "..........NOTE THE " T " HAS TO BE BELOW THE BOTTOM OF THE CANNISTER FOR THIS TO WORK......It's very easy to remove for inspection and just a couple of $'s..........I have done this to both my Spyders and No problems with smell or anything else in the past 20,000 + miles ...Mike

is this what you meant by having the "T" placed below the Cannister...???
007.jpg
thx in advance...
Dan P
Easley, SC
SPYD3R

[Bob Denman]

Very nice diagram that makes it easy to understand!
Thanks!

[SPYD3R]

Very nice diagram that makes it easy to understand!
Thanks!

BUT.... is this the correct 'fix'...? need 2 hear back from Mr. Blue (Mike)....
hurry Mike... Tuperware is off, waiting on your reply....
Dan P
Easley, SC
SPYD3R

[stewartj239]

is this what you meant BY having the "T" placed below the Cannister...???

I just did this yesterday and completely removed the canister based on the link you previously provided. Why not go that route rather than leaving the canister in place using the "T" connector?

[SPYD3R]

I just did this yesterday and completely removed the canister based on the link you previously provided. Why not go that route rather than leaving the canister in place using the "T" connector?

like BLUEKNIGHT said, "the canister serves a purpose", and i'd prefer to keep the canister in place...
were you able to ride? did you notice anything different? etc etc etc....
Dan P
Easley, SC
SPYD3R

[Magdave]

like BLUEKNIGHT said, "the canister serves a purpose", and i'd prefer to keep the canister in place...
were you able to ride? did you notice anything different? etc etc etc....
Dan P
Easley, SC
SPYD3R

With the "T" in you are effectively eliminating the canister. The only way to keep it functional would be to add a one way valve to allow gas out and close when purge valve suction occurs. Even then a lot of fumes would still escape via the added "T". It would make it easier to reattach if warranty service is needed than total removal.

[stewartj239]

like BLUEKNIGHT said, "the canister serves a purpose", and i'd prefer to keep the canister in place...
were you able to ride? did you notice anything different? etc etc etc....
Dan P
Easley, SC
SPYD3R

We are in the dead of winter here, so I won't be able to take it out until spring. The other thread that eliminates the canister altogether was from August of 2009, so it is a modification that has been around for a while and I have seen any posts about it being a problem. It too is completely reverseable.

[Magdave]

We are in the dead of winter here, so I won't be able to take it out until spring. The other thread that eliminates the canister altogether was from August of 2009, so it is a modification that has been around for a while and I have seen any posts about it being a problem. It too is completely reverseable.

The only problem is you are violating the EPA rules and may have issues with the purge valve (lots of reports of that going bad) that will not be covered under warranty unless you re install everything. The "T" set up does about the same as removal and allows a quick reversal if needed in that case. If you want to be a law breaker do as you wish. Removing it will not stop gas vapors or gas leakage either although they may happen on the road and not the garage. The canister was supposed to control that but poor design of it doesn't make it work as well as it should. Just sayin'....

[stewartj239]

Removing it will not stop gas vapors or gas leakage either although they may happen on the road and not the garage. The canister was supposed to control that but poor design of it doesn't make it work as well as it should. Just sayin'....

My goal is to eliminate the gas fumes that fill the garage so that it doesn't burn down and permeate into the house. If the canister worked the way it was supposed to, then it would remain on the bike.

[jaherbst]

Is anyone that are carefully filling their Spyder getting over 100 + miles to the tank ? I have a 2013 RT LTD and I'm getting about 22 miles a gallon. Anyone getting any better than this and if so HOW ?

2013 RT-S getting 32 MPG.

Jack

[stewartj239]

may have issues with the purge valve (lots of reports of that going bad) that will not be covered under warranty

Are bad purge valves a failure tied specifically to the removal of the canister? I saw nothing about that in the other thread.

[Magdave]

Are bad purge valves a failure tied specifically to the removal of the canister? I saw nothing about that in the other thread.

I do not know if there is a relationship between the removal but there is a relationship to the gas smell and drip from a bad purge valve that is stuck.I have read that in several threads. I could think of reasons improper canister removal could cause issues with the valve. Some say to plug the line to it but I do not see how that is viable. Maybe using a fuel filter as a plug would make more sense. A bad purge valve may be independent of the removal and need fixed and without the canister I doubt BRP will pay for it under warranty. You have MAP sensors that may or may not be affected by a plugged purge valve. It is not expecting to get no draw from the line

[Magdave]

One additional thought is if you own a 2013, that the tank is not insulated on, they have been known to boil on hot days. Mine did. A canister is supposed to capture the fumes that causes and recycle them to the engine. Without a canister if you pull into the garage after a hot day's ride and a boiling tank you will still get fumes. I have insulated my tank and it seems to have helped the boiling I will know more next summer because that was done near the end of the season.

[stewartj239]

One additional thought is if you own a 2013, that the tank is not insulated on, they have been known to boil on hot days. Mine did. A canister is supposed to capture the fumes that causes and recycle them to the engine. Without a canister if you pull into the garage after a hot day's ride and a boiling tank you will still get fumes. I have insulated my tank and it seems to have helped the boiling I will know more next summer because that was done near the end of the season.

I have just done the same. No boiling gas for me, but I don't see how it can't do anything but help.

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