Evap cannister

[bhfromme]

Ok people let's share your wisdom.

My check engine light came on and after a couple of tries my dealer finally figured it out. My evaporation canister weighed too much which I guess meant it needed to replaced. Some of you probably know by now that I am not a mechanic. I don't even pretend to know anything about mechanical things. Anyway, my dealer is in the process of replacing the canister and they call me to tell me it won't be covered under my warranty. Let me preface that by saying that in Florida BRP is not allowed to sell their extended warranty so I was forced to buy an extended warranty from a company called Interstate National Dealer Services.

Oh we all know what service means right? Back in the days of old, a farmer would take his cows down the road to be "serviced" by the bull. Get it? Yeah that's about how I'm feeling right now too.

But I digress. So 445 dollars later I get my bike back. I've called and emailed BRP and it seems that this is covered by their EPA warranty. Problem is that the EPA warranty is only good for five years or 18,000 miles. Really? Who could own one of these Spyders and do less than 4.000 miles a year. My 2011 RT has 39,000 very happy miles on it. So it seems at the moment I'm stuck. Thoughts? Ideas?

[Jeriatric]

To late this time but the next time save youself a bunndle of cash and have a canisterectomy done. You're dealer may be unwilling to do it, but anyone with a little mechanical knowledge can help you. You can find all kinds of how to info by doing a search here.

[Chupaca]

when mine gets to that point I will be removing it. There are diy's on the subject...here to help if in doubt ask first you will save in the long run...

[NancysToy]

If the evap canister weighs too much that means it has become filled with liquid fuel. It is not only a performance problem, it is a fire hazard. The usual cause is overfilling the gas tank. When filling the Spyder, insert the nozzle barely into the fill ring, then fill slowly by hand...as slow as possible is best. Stop when the first signs of fuel spit through the vent slots. You can click again to top it off, but be sure to stop for good the second time gas spurts out. If you fill properly and still overflow to the evap canister, you may have a bad purge valve and/or tip-over valve.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I posted a solution a long time ago that both solved the problem and was easily reversible to comply with anyone looking at your Spyder with thoughts about DENYING your WARRANTY. .....You put an automotive plastic " T " on the line that went to the cannister then put an extension line straight down away from anything hot and this prevents any gas overflow from reaching the cannister. For the upright part of the " T " you then put in a small piece of tube and connected that to the orig. fitting on the cannister.........So you still have fume scavenging with the cannister but it is IMPOSSIBLE to get any FUEL/GAS into the cannister because of the " T "..........NOTE THE " T " HAS TO BE BELOW THE BOTTOM OF THE CANNISTER FOR THIS TO WORK......It's very easy to remove for inspection and just a couple of $'s..........I have done this to both my Spyders and No problems with smell or anything else in the past 20,000 + miles ...Mike

[bhfromme]

You guys are awesome. Thanks.

But my tools are in Maine and I'm in Florida. Even with my tools though I doubt I'm clever enough to install the T.

[Bob Denman]

In the meantime; I'd pay close attention to what Scotty has said...

[ulflyer]

I posted a solution a long time ago that both solved the problem and was easily reversible to comply with anyone looking at your Spyder with thoughts about DENYING your WARRANTY. .....You put an automotive plastic " T " on the line that went to the cannister then put an extension line straight down away from anything hot and this prevents any gas overflow from reaching the cannister. For the upright part of the " T " you then put in a small piece of tube and connected that to the orig. fitting on the cannister.........So you still have fume scavenging with the cannister put it is IMPOSSIBLE to get any FUEL/GAS into the cannister because of the " T "..........NOTE THE " T " HAS TO BE BELOW THE BOTTOM OF THE CANNISTER FOR THIS TO WORK......It's very easy to remove for inspection and just a couple of $'s..........I have done this to both my Spyders and No problems with smell or anything else in the past 20,000 + miles ...Mike

Wouldn't happen to have a picture of the connection would you? Sounds like something I should do for preventive maint.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Wouldn't happen to have a picture of the connection would you? Sounds like something I should do for preventive maint.

Unfortunately ( I think ) I have no talents in the PICS dept.,....However if you remove the tupperware ( upper pieces only ) from the right side and look at the front of the gas tank and the cannister which to the right ......Bring what I wrote about doing this and you will see EXACTLY what there is to do this...the plastic " T " is the smallest I saw so get that one.......as far as connections goes the " T " has ridges so the tubes shouldn't come off.....as a fail-safe tho I just lightly twisted some thin wire ( a paper clip could work ) around the tube ( there's no pressure ) and it'll never fall off..........Just take a look and see you'd be surprised........I'll bet someone here can even point you to some pics of the area in question and arrow onto the tubeing to cut/modify etc.......good luck..................and Sorry about the Pics...........Mike

[Bob Denman]

Mike,
With all of your really neat ideas; you're going to have to learn some basic picture-taking and uploading skills...

[Barlock]

Unfortunately ( I think ) I have no talents in the PICS dept.,....However if you remove the tupperware ( upper pieces only ) from the right side and look at the front of the gas tank and the cannister which to the right ......Bring what I wrote about doing this and you will see EXACTLY what there is to do this...the plastic " T " is the smallest I saw so get that one.......as far as connections goes the " T " has ridges so the tubes shouldn't come off.....as a fail-safe tho I just lightly twisted some thin wire ( a paper clip could work ) around the tube ( there's no pressure ) and it'll never fall off..........Just take a look and see you'd be surprised........I'll bet someone here can even point you to some pics of the area in question and arrow onto the tubeing to cut/modify etc.......good luck..................and Sorry about the Pics...........Mike

May we ask you to do a sketch of your simple solution? I'm sure it is simple enough for someone who has done it once, but those of us who have never seen the under-world of our Spyders, it's hard to imagine it and follow your instructions. Many of us would like to have it done, but we need either your picture or at least a sketch. Thanks.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

May we ask you to do a sketch of your simple solution? I'm sure it is simple enough for someone who has done it once, but those of us who have never seen the under-world of our Spyders, it's hard to imagine it and follow your instructions. Many of us would like to have it done, but we need either your picture or at least a sketch. Thanks.

Oh I can do a SKETCH / DIAGRAM etc.,.....it's posting it that's not gonna happen.....Like I tried to explain above ...if you look at the area under the tupperware while reading my description it will all make instant sense.....However if you have NEVER removed any tupperware I don't recommend you start with this. Although everyone has to start somewhere....I did .....and I've even talked a few female Spyderlovers here ( NO DIS-RESPECT LADIES ) thru some projects...............Just take off the TUPPERWARE and look at it .......if it's not obvious what I've described then PLEASE don't try it , ask someone you know for assistance.......That's what Spyderlovers is all about.....RIGHT.............GO FOR IT...........Mike

[gypsy_100]

Ok people let's share your wisdom.

So 445 dollars later I get my bike back.

What else did they do? I hope a lot of things. Otherwise, you have been massively ripped. I just had the canister replaced on my 2011 RT. The canister sells for $66.99 full price. My dealer charged $60 labor (0.75 hours) so the total was $126.99, ignoring any discounts. The BRP flat rate manual shows only 0.5 hours to replace the canister on an RT but I'm not gonna quibble over that. The point is, if all they did on your bike was the canister, you should have been out the door for $130 or less.

[Dragonrider]

I did a canisterectomy on my RS, but never had to touch my RT canister. Now, I will NEVER have to touch it..... BTW, I sold my 2010 RT with right at 9K on the clock - but then, I live in the great Northwet....

[ulflyer]

Unfortunately ( I think ) I have no talents in the PICS dept.,....However if you remove the tupperware ( upper pieces only ) from the right side and look at the front of the gas tank and the cannister which to the right ......Bring what I wrote about doing this and you will see EXACTLY what there is to do this...the plastic " T " is the smallest I saw so get that one.......as far as connections goes the " T " has ridges so the tubes shouldn't come off.....as a fail-safe tho I just lightly twisted some thin wire ( a paper clip could work ) around the tube ( there's no pressure ) and it'll never fall off..........Just take a look and see you'd be surprised........I'll bet someone here can even point you to some pics of the area in question and arrow onto the tubeing to cut/modify etc.......good luck..................and Sorry about the Pics...........Mike

Mike, thanks for feedback. I think I understand and will have a look one of these days. If it turns out I feel comfortable doing it, I'll take a picture or two and post them but this may not be for awhile.

[ulflyer]

In the following diagram you see hose #26 going from the gas tank to the cannister. Why not disconnect it and extend it down underneath somewhere?

[Don in E Texas]

On my '08 I just followed the directions Lamont posted on a video that is available on this site. My 2010 has not been modified as yet.

don

[DrewNJ]

In the following diagram you see hose #26 going from the gas tank to the cannister. Why not disconnect it and extend it down underneath somewhere?

That's it. Basically, just extended the tank vent down towards the ground, cap the purge, and remove as much unused plumbing as you want including the canister

On mine I actually capped the purge line at the plastic mixing junction closer to the front aic and removed a LOT of unnecessary plumbing. My purge valve is zip tied up under the dash, plugged in with no piping.

Sent from my DROID using Tapatalk

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

In the following diagram you see hose #26 going from the gas tank to the cannister. Why not disconnect it and extend it down underneath somewhere?

..Thanks for this diagram.....and YES it is tube # 26 that needs to be cut.....I cut it about 2/3 from the tank side and put in the " T ", so it would be lower than the cannister preventing the possibility of gas contamination as stated earlier.......The reason I did it this way was I felt BRP engineers had a good reason to scavenge the fumes into the charcoal, but it just didn't work out perfectly.....You can just take the #26 completely off ( I suppose) and extend it down and away from any thing HOT.....But I think my way may let the cannister do it's intended job BUT prevent the dreaded FUEL CONTAMINATION which will RUIN any function of the cannister completely......My theory / logic may be incorrect but my GOAL was achieved in that there is NO FUEL in either of my cannisters . ....Thanks again for the Pics.....Mike

[ulflyer]

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...annisterectomy

[ARtraveler]

Ok people let's share your wisdom.

My check engine light came on and after a couple of tries my dealer finally figured it out. My evaporation canister weighed too much which I guess meant it needed to replaced. Some of you probably know by now that I am not a mechanic. I don't even pretend to know anything about mechanical things. Anyway, my dealer is in the process of replacing the canister and they call me to tell me it won't be covered under my warranty. Let me preface that by saying that in Florida BRP is not allowed to sell their extended warranty so I was forced to buy an extended warranty from a company called Interstate National Dealer Services.

Oh we all know what service means right? Back in the days of old, a farmer would take his cows down the road to be "serviced" by the bull. Get it? Yeah that's about how I'm feeling right now too.

But I digress. So 445 dollars later I get my bike back. I've called and emailed BRP and it seems that this is covered by their EPA warranty. Problem is that the EPA warranty is only good for five years or 18,000 miles. Really? Who could own one of these Spyders and do less than 4.000 miles a year. My 2011 RT has 39,000 very happy miles on it. So it seems at the moment I'm stuck. Thoughts? Ideas?

PM sent.

[TuckMiddle]

I thought the EPA stuff was all 5 years. I think I will look that up, if I can remember to look for the note in my phone .....
The canisterectemy solved my lingering problem
Tuck

[ulflyer]

After reading all that I could find about it I decided to do mine even though I haven't had any problem. Call it preventive maintenance. The only pain in the butt is taking all the right side tupperware off. Once that was done, 4 ft of 1/4 fuel hose connected to the hose coming from the gas tank, after removing it from the canister, and a bolt put in the end of the purge valve hose after removing it also from the canister. I ran the long hose back along the frame towards the rear making sure it wasn't on or near any of the hot stuff. This took maybe 15 min, but the tupperware a bit longer........and as usual I ended up with one screw left over! Oh well...........

If you can take your tupperware off, the rest is a no-brainer and requires no mechanical skill. Look at the diagram above and you can see the two hoses in question.

[bhfromme]

What else did they do? I hope a lot of things. Otherwise, you have been massively ripped. I just had the canister replaced on my 2011 RT. The canister sells for $66.99 full price. My dealer charged $60 labor (0.75 hours) so the total was $126.99, ignoring any discounts. The BRP flat rate manual shows only 0.5 hours to replace the canister on an RT but I'm not gonna quibble over that. The point is, if all they did on your bike was the canister, you should have been out the door for $130 or less.

They charged 125 for the part and 2.5 hours of labor. I'm not sure it's reasonable and customary to charge for diagnostic work that was a good chunk of the labor.

I ask this of everyone. Would your dealer charge you for diagnosing the problem?

[DrewNJ]

I ask this of everyone. Would your dealer charge you for diagnosing the problem?

The dealer here charges an hour labor ($95 IIRC) to diagnose. However, they apply that hour toward the labor for the repair if they do the work.

I don't know about removing/replacing the tupperware on the RT but changing out the canister on an RS takes about 15 minutes....no joke.

I'd expect to pay an hour labor ($95) plus whatever the part cost ($67 or so) for having the dealer replace the canister.