Making the 2013 Spyder RT-S "Perfect"

[stewartj239]

My wife and I have now owned our 2013 RT-S for about 6 months and we've put a total of 4500+ miles on it so far. During this time, I had left it stock in order to let it break in and to put on some miles in order to do a proper evaluation before shelling out money for improvements. Based on that, the following list outlines all of the changes I plan to make during the winter:

Akrapovic Exhaust - Based on my past 2-wheel experience, the OEM exhaust is typically overly restrictive and replacing it often allows the bike to run the way the factory wanted it to.

Cat Removal - Why the Spyder has this is beyond me. Knowing that it is also a big heat generator under the Tupperware, it's coming out.

PCV with AutoTune - To make sure I don't run too lean with the cat removal and Akrapovic, I'm adding the PCV - which I have past experience with. Also hearing that the rear cylinder can run leaner than the front, I'm adding the dual channel AutoTune so that each cylinder can be mapped independently.

ELKA 1+R Suspension - I'm adding these both front and rear. For touring, we want a nicer ride and I'm hoping that through turns, it makes the VSS less likely to kick in.

ISCI Front Brake - I don't understand why the Spyder did not come with one. I've ridden 2 wheels for the last 25 years and I always keep a finger on the front brake. The Spyder's rear brake by itself is lame and in my opinion, unsafe.

BRP Adjustable Wind Deflectors - The stock deflectors are in the closed position and they do not allow air to flow over the upper vents. I would think that by allowing air over those vents will help to pull hot air up and out of the Tupperware.

Ignition Wire Set & Plugs - I've seen that the OEM wires have caused people problems, so for the price, I'm replacing them.

Spyderpops Bump Skid - I like idea of the added protection that it offers and I also think it enhances the look of the Spyder.

BajaRon Sway Bar & Chromoly Heim Joints - I've actually already added the sway bar, then added the chromoly joints after the stock one snapped. This was definitely a nice enhancement and would recommend it.

I know I have a lot of updates that potentially address the heat related issues, but I want to be clear that I have not experienced or have had any heat related problems. However, I also want to be proactive, so if there is any way I can reduce heat or fend off potential problems, then I will.

Lastly, with the cat removal, Akrapovic and PCV / AutoTune additions, I hope to optimize the performance of this bike. From what I've read, an 8+ HP increase is possible.

I'll update this thread with my progress as it happens.

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Added 12/24/2013:

KewlMetal Air Filter Kit - I've started to tear into the Spyder to remove the header pipes and install BajaRon's plug / wire kit and was shocked to that there is no room in there to work. I came across the KewlMetal air filter kit which opens up all kinds of space under the hood and provides its own benefits as well.

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Added 12/30/2013:

Evap Canister Removal - One of the issues that I did have was the smell of gasoline in the garage after parking the Spyder. I came across a thread on this forum that identified the evap canister as the culprit and showed a very simple way for removing it altogether.

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Added 01/19/2014:

Ceramic Coating - The header pipes and cat bypass "Y" pipe are out to be ceramic coated. The shop told me that the ceramic coating will reduce the amount of emitted heat by 50%. My research on the topic supports that estimate.

Belt Tensioner - I do get belt vibration between 45-65 MPH, depending on the riding and throttle conditions. I ordered the Smooth Spyder tensioner as I have only heard positive things about it.

[Mooseman]

My wife and I have now owned our 2013 RT-S for about 6 months and we've put a total of 4500+ miles on it so far. During this time, I had left it stock in order to let it break in and to put on some miles in order to do a proper evaluation before shelling out money for improvements. Based on that, the following list outlines all of the changes I plan to make during the winter:

Akrapovic Exhaust - Based on my past 2-wheel experience, the OEM exhaust is typically overly restrictive and replacing it often allows the bike to run the way the factory wanted it to.

Cat Removal - Why the Spyder has this is beyond me. Knowing that it is also a big heat generator under the Tupperware, it's coming out.

PCV with AutoTune - To make sure I don't run too lean with the cat removal and Akrapovic, I'm adding the PCV - which I have past experience with. Also hearing that the rear cylinder can run leaner than the front, I'm adding the dual channel AutoTune so that each cylinder can be mapped independently.

ELKA 1+R Suspension - I'm adding these both front and rear. For touring, we want a nicer ride and I'm hoping that through turns, it makes the VSS less likely to kick in.

ISCI Front Brake - I don't understand why the Spyder did not come with one. I've ridden 2 wheels for the last 25 years and I always keep a finger on the front brake. The Spyder's rear brake by itself is lame and in my opinion, unsafe.

BRP Adjustable Wind Deflectors - The stock deflectors are in the closed position and they do not allow air to flow over the upper vents. I would think that by allowing air over those vents will help to pull hot air up and out of the Tupperware.

Ignition Wire Set & Plugs - I've seen that the OEM wires have caused people problems, so for the price, I'm replacing them.

Spyderpops Bump Skid - I like idea of the added protection that it offers and I also think it enhances the look of the Spyder.

BajaRon Sway Bar & Chromoly Heim Joints - I've actually already added the sway bar, then added the chromoly joints after the stock one snapped. This was definitely a nice enhancement and would recommend it.

I know I have a lot of updates that potentially address the heat related issues, but I want to be clear that I have not experienced or have had any heat related problems. However, I also want to be proactive, so if there is any way I can reduce heat or fend off potential problems, then I will.

Lastly, with the cat removal, Akrapovic and PCV / AutoTune additions, I hope to optimize the performance of this bike. From what I've read, an 8+ HP increase is possible.

I'll update this thread with my progress as it happens.

You might look at the CanAm Cannon in my thread for"New exhaust for the 2010-2013 RT. I have a you tube linked to it also. The Sound is a deeper bass than the Akropovic and the looks are a lot nicer imho. I like Chrome I guess. Look for the thread started by Mooseman.

[Bob Denman]

Stewart,
You've taken a very wise route to the formation of this great list; you gave yourself the benefit of TIME, in order to get it right!
It sounds as if your better half won't be seeing much of you this Winter. Keep the garage warm enough, and send out for pizza!
(And don't forget to take lots of pictures!)

[Chupaca]

now that the planning and testing is done you are going to be a busy guy...good luck on all these mods...

[Dan McNally]

I'm originally from Syracuse and have a daughter and three grandkids who live there . . . I plan on riding up next summer . . . maybe we can get together and I can see how all those mods look!

[spacetiger]

I think the only three suggestions I would make would be:

1. Wrap the exhaust pipes from the head back to the exhaust. It will help you in 3 ways; keeps exhaust gas velocity up (by keeping heat in), reduces the noise (so you can enjoy the new muffler), and reduce the heat problems the 2013 models seem to have. Search the site, others have done this and posted their results. I plan on doing this for my 2012 RT-S.

2. Put a drive belt tensioner on. I have done this and you will be very pleased how smoother the bike feels.

3. Swap out your front/rear brake pads to EBC V pads. The brake feel is much better.

I will be waiting to see what results you achieve with the PCV. I plan on doing the same but also considering adding the switch to allow dual maps to be used. It doesn't add much cost given the investment in the other electronic components and thought having MAP for best MPG while highway cruising would be useful.

1 question: I noticed many farkles like different seat, floorboards or 12v accessory outlets for cold weather riding gear... Do you have any plans in this direction?

Jerry

[stewartj239]

I'm originally from Syracuse and have a daughter and three grandkids who live there . . . I plan on riding up next summer . . . maybe we can get together and I can see how all those mods look!

Definitely!

[GeoffCee]

ISCI Front Brake - I don't understand why the Spyder did not come with one. I've ridden 2 wheels for the last 25 years and I always keep a finger on the front brake. The Spyder's rear brake by itself is lame and in my opinion, unsafe.

I too have a long history of riding bikes and like you I find myself reaching for a non-existent front brake lever even after almost 3 years of Spyder riding. I have had to make two emergency stops in that time where the Spyder's brakes saved the day, both times riding 2-up, once with a stack of luggage on board.

The brake pedal doesn't operate the rear brake "by itself", it sends the ABS-controlled braking effort to the pads on all three wheels simultaneously. IMO the braking system is one area which requires no improvement - it isn't the Spyder's fault that I still reach for the front brake, I'm just an old dog who these days learns new tricks real slow.

[stewartj239]

IMO the braking system is one area which requires no improvement - it isn't the Spyder's fault that I still reach for the front brake, I'm just an old dog who these days learns new tricks real slow.

I agree. The rear brake does its job. After 4500 miles, I can't tell you how many times I still grab for the front brake lever that isn't there which is the whole justification for me adding it. However, if BRP wants to attract more motorcycle riders to the Sypder - who are accustomed to having a front brake lever, and the fact that an RT-S retails for $27K, I was unpleasantly surprised when it did not come with the front hand brake.

[GeoffCee]

I agree. The rear brake does its job. After 4500 miles, I can't tell you how many times I still grab for the front brake lever that isn't there which is the whole justification for me adding it. However, if BRP wants to attract more motorcycle riders to the Sypder - who are accustomed to having a front brake lever, and the fact that an RT-S retails for $27K, I was unpleasantly surprised when it did not come with the front hand brake.

It's in the eye of the beholder, as always. When first I sat on an RT-SE5 I remember thinking how neat and uncluttered the bars looked without levers. Then I espied the Command Center and switch gear on the left and knew that my digits would be on a steep learning curve if ever I was to buy one of these classy runabouts. Yes, it was darned expensive to buy (and to insure) but we've had great pleasure from our "investment", more than we would have gotten from watching our savings stagnate in a bank, they're paying out such miserly rates of interest.

[jcthorne]

I agree. The rear brake does its job. After 4500 miles, I can't tell you how many times I still grab for the front brake lever that isn't there which is the whole justification for me adding it. However, if BRP wants to attract more motorcycle riders to the Sypder - who are accustomed to having a front brake lever, and the fact that an RT-S retails for $27K, I was unpleasantly surprised when it did not come with the front hand brake.

The 3 wheel ABS system automatically adjusts the front to rear bias ratio. Its not a fixed ration. Manual front to rear modulation of the brakes is an outdated tech. The electronics does it far faster and more reliably than you ever could. Besides, if you are coming from a 2 wheeler, the bias front to rear is entirely different for the reverse trike if there were a manual control. Let the very sophisticated (for a bike) brake system do its job.

The hand brake lever is not missing, its an outdated control mechanism that has no place on the Spyder. Learn to use the controls on the Spyder they way they are designed rather than adding unsafe mechanisms to manually apply the front brakes alone. The brake pedal is NOT a rear brake.


The reason the rear brake pads wear faster than the front is due to their use by the traction control and vehicle stability control systems.

[Bob Denman]

Mash that pedal; the bike stops quickly with a fair amount of feel....
What more do you want?
(Besides a lever? )

[GeoffCee]

The reason the rear brake pads wear faster than the front is due to their use by the traction control and vehicle stability control systems.

Surely, traction control is an engine power-output management function, as is the SCS?

I can envisage a heap of problems if the rear brake was used to correct traction or stability excesses induced by the rider. Brakes applying themselves fills me with horror! (Unless it's an up-market Mercedes with collision avoidance).

Whatever the reason turns out to be for more rapid rear pad wear on the Spyder, I'm hopeful that this cannot be it.

[jcthorne]

Surely, traction control is an engine power-output management function, as is the SCS?

I can envisage a heap of problems if the rear brake was used to correct traction or stability excesses induced by the rider. Brakes applying themselves fills me with horror! (Unless it's an up-market Mercedes with collision avoidance).

Whatever the reason turns out to be for more rapid rear pad wear on the Spyder, I'm hopeful that this cannot be it.

Brake application has been a standard part of traction control systems since ABS became a normal part of automotive tech. IE its on almost all cars and the Spyder.

[spacetiger]

The 3 wheel ABS system automatically adjusts the front to rear bias ratio. Its not a fixed ration. Manual front to rear modulation of the brakes is an outdated tech. The electronics does it far faster and more reliably than you ever could. Besides, if you are coming from a 2 wheeler, the bias front to rear is entirely different for the reverse trike if there were a manual control. Let the very sophisticated (for a bike) brake system do its job.

The hand brake lever is not missing, its an outdated control mechanism that has no place on the Spyder. Learn to use the controls on the Spyder they way they are designed rather than adding unsafe mechanisms to manually apply the front brakes alone. The brake pedal is NOT a rear brake.


The reason the rear brake pads wear faster than the front is due to their use by the traction control and vehicle stability control systems.

Some valid points but I think Stewart is going with a modified setup because it has better reaction time potential. There is nothing to preclude him using the brake pedal a few seconds later.

In stopping there are 2 comPonents, reaction time and actual braking. I believe if you ride in lots of heavy traffic you need to have the best braking possible so anything to help out is good. I would consider this an option except the cost is so high. I believe there are other options that cost lest to help on braking part; I have to retrain myself to reduce reaction time.

I do enjory reading farkle projects so I say keep posting Stewart

BTW, who else has checked there stock frunk underside to see if they have scrape marks?

jerry

[stewartj239]

Some valid points

Yes, all points are valid and it gets a number of different points of view on the topic for discussion. All good feedback.

I think Stewart is going with a modified setup because it has better reaction time potential. There is nothing to preclude him using the brake pedal a few seconds later.

Yes! This is the only reason. The Brembo brakes on the Spyder are awesome, but it takes more time to use your right foot to apply the brakes than it does to squeeze a lever - when your finger is right on it.

I honestly am having a VERY hard time braking the Spyder using just the rear brake pedal. I am 45 years old, I've ridden street bikes for the last 25 years and ridden MX for the last 35 years. MX is definitely heavier on the front brake and I still ride with my sons. Having a front brake lever is burned into me and on the Spyder, not having it does make me feel unsafe. Unsafe not because the Spyder doesn't have good brakes, but because my reaction time is reduced by not having the brake lever.

[PatrickH]

StewartJ,

When you speak of CAT REMOVAL, what are you talking about? Catalytic converter removal or bypass?

Don't own one yet, but will be buying a 2014 soon,

Patrick H

[QUOTE=stewartj239;724368]My wife and I have now owned our 2013 RT-S for about 6 months and we've put a total of 4500+ miles on it so far. During this time, I had left it stock in order to let it break in and to put on some miles in order to do a proper evaluation before shelling out money for improvements. Based on that, the following list outlines all of the changes I plan to make during the winter:



Cat Removal - Why the Spyder has this is beyond me. Knowing that it is also a big heat generator under the Tupperware, it's coming out.

[stewartj239]

When you speak of CAT REMOVAL, what are you talking about? Catalytic converter removal or bypass.

It is a remove and replace. For the 2013 it is just a Y-pipe. I'm not sure if anyone has one out yet for the 2014 but I imagine they will be coming. The link below is where I got mine, but they don't show anything for the 2014 yet, so you might want to contact them to see when it's coming. Also, some people have had their's fabricated for the 2014 by local shops. If you do a search on the forum, you will probably find something. Good luck with your purchase.

http://www.spyder1attitude.com/cat-bypass.html

[stewartj239]

I finally got the headers and cat bypass back from being ceramic coated. The total cost to have the 2 bungs welded in (for the AutoTune) and to have all 3 pipes coated was just $150 out the door. I am happy with the results and was assured that the heat emitted from the pipes should be 50% less. On top of that reduction, the cat is out of the picture now, so the overall heat reduction should be even greater.

Exhaust - 1.jpg Exhaust - 2.jpg

[stewartj239]

AutoTune O2 Bung Locations:

For the front header, the bung closest to the header at the very top is the OEM bung. The one closest to my hand is where I had them put the AutoTune bung. It is within the recommended 13" distance from the header and is in wide open space inside the tupperware.

Front Header.jpg

The rear header was the tricky one. The bung closest to the header is the OEM bung. The bung to the right on the down tube is the AutoTune bung. This is literally the only spot that this can go. The header is wedged between the back of the engine and the gas tank. The way they are placed, the frame rail will run between them. Notice that the AutoTune bung is turned forward because if it isn't, then you won't be able to get the bodywork put back on the bike as the O2 sensor will stick out too far.

Rear Header.jpg

[stewartj239]

Here is a quick comparison between the catalytic converter and the bypass pipe. The cat weighs 12 pounds and the converter weighs 6 pounds. Remember that the cat sits right underneath the gas tank, so getting rid of it will not only reduce heat, but increase HP.

Cat vs Y.jpg

[stewartj239]

YOU CAN INSTALL THE ISCI FAN CAN ON THERE AS WELL THIS WILL ALSO HELP REDUCE THE HEAT ON YOUR FEET WHEN YOU ARE SITTING AT IDLE AND WHEN THE FAN KICKS ON

I have given that some thought as well. However, I have an SM5 which comes with the footpegs instead of the floorboards. With that set up, the heat never hits my foot because it doesn't get far enough forward.

[Magdave]

YOU CAN INSTALL THE ISCI FAN CAN ON THERE AS WELL THIS WILL ALSO HELP REDUCE THE HEAT ON YOUR FEET WHEN YOU ARE SITTING AT IDLE AND WHEN THE FAN KICKS ON

They do not make one for the 2013.

[dancote]

I have to say that, in my 54+ years of riding and history of owning 50+ motorcycles / motorcycles with sidecars and scooters, and adding aftermarket seat solutions to several, I've never owned one that fit me so well right off the showroom floor as our 2013 Spyder RT SE5 that was ordered with Seal floorboards. A very close second was our Suzuki Burgman 650 Executive in terms of ergonomics. That one got sheepskin seat covers to make it "perfect".

I may explore adding a drive belt idler to tame the mild (but not insignificant) vibration sensed in the floorboards at certain RPMs.

I'd like more (and more accessible) power points. They'll be added over time.

For now, I don't care to explore audio enhancements. Even though I've paid close attention (I thought) to maintaining my hearing, it hasn't paid off. My Harleys always had stock mufflers and, if you haven't heard them, they're pretty quiet. I suspect that hours of wind noise on un-faired bikes and listening to tunes on my tourers at levels above wind/road/exhaust sound got me to where I am today. Maybe a bit of contribution from Navy carriers, jets and turbojets.

The only thing I'd like in the audio department is rider/passenger communication on the rare occasion when my wife rides with me.

Regards,

Dan

[stewartj239]

I may explore adding a drive belt idler to tame the mild (but not insignificant) vibration sensed in the floorboards at certain RPMs.

I think that a belt tensioner is going to be something that I might add during this round of changes. We usually get vibration between 55 and 65 mph.

I'd like more (and more accessible) power points. They'll be added over time.

I am currently looking into this. I've read that the best power source for the AutoTune is through the fuse box. I'm looking at the RT-S manual right now and it looks like fuse #6 in the right side box is open for accessories. I'm going to verify that it is open tomorrow morning and if so, I'll probably buy a fuse tap and wire the AutoTune through that. I assume it can be used for any other type of accessory as well.