Making the 2013 Spyder RT-S "Perfect"

[stewartj239]

I just got the power commander, replacing the juice Box Pro, was going to add the Autotune, but from reading all your information I'm gathering that if we normally are in the 0-7500 rpm range while driving, then installing the Autotune would be redundant? In thinking this, the best way to see how the bike is actually running in closed loop, and to adjust this area, a dyno test or tune would be the only option. If I'm understanding all this correctly.

I agree with your strategy if you ride mainly in that RPM range and below 60% throttle. I am a revver so I would say that most of my time is 60% throttle and above. In that throttle area and above the 7500 RPM range, the AutoTune is constantly adjusting. Now that I kind of skewed the PCV base map by doing the ECM update, I do hope to get a custom tune at some point. Until then, I am going to adjust the closed loop area manually until I get the check engine light to come again, then I will trim it back and leave it there until I can get the custom tune done.

[rarerockmusic]

So safe to say, for cruising, i should just save the cost of the autotune and just get a Dyno done. BTW nice job on your Spyder. Also the wiring had me confused, my spyder is a 2010, but i had to hook to the 2nd wire from left, Power Commander said a 0-5 volt analog wire, i had the juice Box on the 3rd wire, colors are difficult to see, but bike started hard after the change but seems smoother just revving it sitting still, no more fluctuations at any rpm, still have to road test but you see what i see out the window.

[rarerockmusic]

Also while reading your post, going back to the rear spark plug, I've always wondered and asked in other post, that the evap canister on the 2010's ran to the rear cylinder, i don't know if the 2013's are the same, but that extra fuel/fumes coming from the evap, wouldn't that also add to that cylinder running richer than the front?

[stewartj239]

Also while reading your post, going back to the rear spark plug, I've always wondered and asked in other post, that the evap canister on the 2010's ran to the rear cylinder, i don't know if the 2013's are the same, but that extra fuel/fumes coming from the evap, wouldn't that also add to that cylinder running richer than the front?

That is a good question that I don't know the answer to. I would guess that the 2010 and 2013 routing would be the same. Either way, it is something that I never considered. The pictures of those plugs were from running 4500 miles with the evap cansiter in place.

[Bob Denman]

Thanks for all of the valuable research!!
ANYBODY with an earlier RT can benefit from your efforts.

[rarerockmusic]

Maybe you can help, what wire on the TPS did you hook the power commander to?

[stewartj239]

Maybe you can help, what wire on the TPS did you hook the power commander to?

I don't remember off the top of my head. Did you check the earlier pages in this thread? I think I took a picture of it which shows which wire it was.

[stewartj239]

So safe to say, for cruising, i should just save the cost of the autotune and just get a Dyno done.

I would say yes. Originally, that was my plan, but could not find a shop around here that would do a custom map for the Spyder. That is why I went with the AutoTune. Now that I have learned about the closed loop "fixed" setting AND after doing the ECM update, I would like to get a custom map done, so I might have to expand my search for a shop that will do it.

Also the wiring had me confused, my spyder is a 2010, but i had to hook to the 2nd wire from left, Power Commander said a 0-5 volt analog wire, i had the juice Box on the 3rd wire, colors are difficult to see

Others have had the same issue. The directions have thrown a number of people for a loop on the installation.