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Oil check ??
Sorry for such a dumb question but I am concerned.
So i checked my oil after my 600 mile service, and i would say it was inconclusive. There was oil on the stick, but more all over it after following the instructions. I asssumed it was because of the bubbles in my oil tank you can see if you shine a light after it has been run. Also could have touched the neck.
So i have been smelling hot/burnt oil after some ride, so i decided to check it.
followed instructions, running the engine for 30 seconds. Again bubbles in the oil tank, all over the stick. I wiped it clean, and after several attempts, nothing shows up on the stick after the ubbles have gone.
I am used to checking the car with no problem. Should i run the engine 30 seconds before checking?
also, i can see oil in there, if i add some, how much should i start with with such a small tank and no fudge factor.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by kepople
Sorry for such a dumb question but I am concerned.
So i checked my oil after my 600 mile service, and i would say it was inconclusive. There was oil on the stick, but more all over it after following the instructions. I asssumed it was because of the bubbles in my oil tank you can see if you shine a light after it has been run. Also could have touched the neck.
So i have been smelling hot/burnt oil after some ride, so i decided to check it.
followed instructions, running the engine for 30 seconds. Again bubbles in the oil tank, all over the stick. I wiped it clean, and after several attempts, nothing shows up on the stick after the ubbles have gone.
I am used to checking the car with no problem. Should i run the engine 30 seconds before checking?
also, i can see oil in there, if i add some, how much should i start with with such a small tank and no fudge factor.
Sounds like it is low to me. Even cold there should be some on the stick usually a little less than 1/2 the distance to the full line. It should be checked after a ride when it is fully hot for accurate measurement. Also it should be fully screwed in and out.
Last edited by Magdave; 11-16-2013 at 10:34 PM.
2013 Mag Silver SE5 RT BahaRon Sway bar & Sway bar links, Grip Puppies, Kuryakyn Helmet locks , Ultimate Seat w/Utopia Backrest, Dash power outlet, Spyderpops BumpSkid, Swagman Cup holders, Full size Brake Pedal, Seal DLX Floorboards, Freeway Blaster horns, Sylvania Super Bright fender LEDs, Scotchlite 680 Rear & Fender Reflectors, BRP Fog Light Kit, LED Mirror turn signal strips, 2014 RT grille mod. Outlaw Laser Alignment
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Motorbike Professor
You need to run the engine, or have just run it, to evacuate any oil that has drained to the sump. The best time to check is after a ride. Just starting the engine and running the gauge up is insufficient to reach full operating temperature for the oil and metal. Failure to be at full operating temperature will give falsely low readings. Remember to screw in the dipstick all the way after wiping clean, the Spyder is different that way. Failure to do so will show a falsely low reading. You do not need to check the moment you shut off the key. Waiting 30-90 seconds helps give time for any bubbles to dissipate. Hot multi-viscosity oils can be hard to spot on the stick. Small holes drilled at the full and add marks, and maybe one in between, will help if you can't get it any other way. Be sure and debur the holes and clean off any shavings before you replace the dipstick.
-Scotty
2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
Mutant Trikes Forever!
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As always, and excellent answer from Scotty. The only thing I would add is that I have found that checking my Spyders oil level can yield somewhat inconsistent results even though I scrupulously follow the owners manual directions, as detailed and clarified by Scotty. Thus, I usually check it 2 or 3 times before I'm satisfied. That is, after the first check I wait a short time, run the motor again for at least 30 seconds (while still hot) and recheck. There is often some variability in the result. I'm probably being overly compulsive but this is so important to get right that's what I do.
Mike
Idaho
www.rtwrider.net
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Very Active Member
The small holes are an excellent idea. At a glance you can tell go or no go. My factory Ford dipsticks have the same holes. Makes it a very quick read.
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Very Active Member
Now why didn't I think of holes in the dip stick! Great idea Scotty.
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Active Member
Dipstick holes
Originally Posted by NancysToy
You need to run the engine, or have just run it, to evacuate any oil that has drained to the sump. The best time to check is after a ride. Just starting the engine and running the gauge up is insufficient to reach full operating temperature for the oil and metal. Failure to be at full operating temperature will give falsely low readings. Remember to screw in the dipstick all the way after wiping clean, the Spyder is different that way. Failure to do so will show a falsely low reading. You do not need to check the moment you shut off the key. Waiting 30-90 seconds helps give time for any bubbles to dissipate. Hot multi-viscosity oils can be hard to spot on the stick. Small holes drilled at the full and add marks, and maybe one in between, will help if you can't get it any other way. Be sure and debur the holes and clean off any shavings before you replace the dipstick.
Assuming this works due to oil filming over the holes. My question is, where to put the holes; right at the full and low markers or those and another halfway between the two.
thanks for the top.
SS1000, BB1500
Pain is temporary, Pride is forever
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So today I went through the drills with it, added oil, almost a quart and now it registers on the dipstick as i expected. Soooo, word of warning to all: double check your oil level after a dealership service...
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Motorbike Professor
Originally Posted by kepople
So today I went through the drills with it, added oil, almost a quart and now it registers on the dipstick as i expected. Soooo, word of warning to all: double check your oil level after a dealership service...
The Spyder takes between 4 and 5 quarts of oil. Few dealers use bulk oil, so if the dealership doesn't hand you part of a quart that is left over, or charges you only for four, be suspicious and check the level. Please note that the Spyder has to be at full operating temperature to register properly. That is hard to do at the dealership. You may have to check as soon as you get home...and call them right away if there is a problem.
-Scotty
2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
Mutant Trikes Forever!
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While it goes against what is recommended in the manual......I was given a little tip from the Aprilia peeps about checking oil on the same motor......After a good ride with the machine in neutral and idling for a little bit. This is the point at which the oil level will be at it's highest in the tank.
I get MUCH more consistent readings since I've done it this way. I shoot for half way up the stick.
With the motor off I end up with way to many inconsistent levels.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by kepople
So today I went through the drills with it, added oil, almost a quart and now it registers on the dipstick as i expected. Soooo, word of warning to all: double check your oil level after a dealership service...
Good to hear it is a common word of caution and seems to happen a lot. As Scotty said check your receipt and expect them to hand you 1/2 qt if they use bottles. Another dealer rip off of $5 if they don't
2013 Mag Silver SE5 RT BahaRon Sway bar & Sway bar links, Grip Puppies, Kuryakyn Helmet locks , Ultimate Seat w/Utopia Backrest, Dash power outlet, Spyderpops BumpSkid, Swagman Cup holders, Full size Brake Pedal, Seal DLX Floorboards, Freeway Blaster horns, Sylvania Super Bright fender LEDs, Scotchlite 680 Rear & Fender Reflectors, BRP Fog Light Kit, LED Mirror turn signal strips, 2014 RT grille mod. Outlaw Laser Alignment
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Active Member
Originally Posted by DrewNJ
..After a good ride with the machine in neutral and idling for a little bit.....
Interesting... with the motor running ??
No splashing I quess but any foaming get in the way ??
I gotta try this.
Marilyn 2023 RTL Red
John 2023 RTL Black
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"common sense will prevail....but we see no sign of that"
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Originally Posted by nhoj
Interesting... with the motor running ??
No splashing I quess but any foaming get in the way ??
I gotta try this.
No splashing, no foaming. If you have to add any oil make sure you blip the throttle a few times and then let it idle for a few minutes before checking again. Sometimes its a little sloppy on the stick for a bit after adding oil but it will settle down. Go for a level half way up to the full line.
I've been doing it this way all year.
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