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RS Problems to new owner- Any help appreciated!
Hi all
I live on the Isle of Man and am a new owner of a 2010 Spyder RS.
I picked it up on Sunday and drove it 530 miles home, a very nice machine indeed.
However this morning I left the bike out of the garage over night and it was a little damp and she is now refusing to start, just clicking not firing.
Initially she threw some codes on the screen I believe 12 & 24 ?? but since then she is not just not starting.
I have a battery jump starter charging up as it looks like it could be a flat battery for some reason?
Any ideas or tips or has anyone experienced this. Any ideas on the error codes 12 & 24?
Is there a way to recall error codes, I am sure I have read a thread that you can do this on the RS but can't find it.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Paul M..
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Very Active Member
Just to suggest the really really obvious first - have you checked the kill switch, only mention it as I've done that before and a mate has never let me forget it:-)
Also don't twist or party open the throttle as that will prevent the Spyder starting and I think it causes the 'starter click'.
If the batteries low I would also expect the dash to flicker/reset when you try the starter, is that happening? If it was a dud battery then I'd find it a bit strange that you probably stopped at least a couple times on the previous days journey and it started ok again. As 'DragonLorD' suggested if the battery is flat I'd be looking for any extra's that may be draining the battery when left.
The process for getting the code on an RS is (if I read my handwriting correctly):
- Use the mode button to show 'Total Hours' in the dash.
- Hold down the mode button and...
- Press High Beam Flash 5 times rapidly
You'll either see a message saying 'No Active Codes' or the codes will be listed.
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Originally Posted by DragonLorD
hi Paul,
neighbour here ,
12 and 24 doesn't seem to be indicator of codes but it is a battery. best if you contact a seller and ask what experience with battery where in the past. Might be equipped with something what drains battery constantly, happened to me when i installed Powercommander - it was constantly draining battery until i relinked it via fuse box from TricLed which has an 30 seconds cut off. Charged up battery fully and no issues since. Leaving your Spyder outdoor has not affect on it - it's designed for it although nice and dry garage won't do any harm.
Stay in touch and hope to see you soon.
Thanks for your reply, much appreciated!
I have just fully charged a battery starter and used it but still nothing. When I press the ignition red button after the mode button the ignition just resets just like it does when you put your key and turn it on. It just clicks once and resets the ignition (all lights come on the needles rise and fall and the safety message on the screen). It is strange that even the battery kick starter does nothing to it???
Is there a way of pulling any error codes the screen on a 2010 RS ? The previous owner says he has never had battery problems neither is there anything unusual on it that would drain charge. Any suggestions?? Is it likely that the battery has died? Is it worth ordering a new battery?
Not a great experience after only owning this since Sunday. It's a lovely machine but I need it to work :-)
Thanks in advance for any further advice.
Cheers
Paul M
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Originally Posted by PistonBlown
Just to suggest the really really obvious first - have you checked the kill switch, only mention it as I've done that before and a mate has never let me forget it:-)
Also don't twist or party open the throttle as that will prevent the Spyder starting and I think it causes the 'starter click'.
If the batteries low I would also expect the dash to flicker/reset when you try the starter, is that happening? If it was a dud battery then I'd find it a bit strange that you probably stopped at least a couple times on the previous days journey and it started ok again. As 'DragonLorD' suggested if the battery is flat I'd be looking for any extra's that may be draining the battery when left.
The process for getting the code on an RS is (if I read my handwriting correctly):
- Use the mode button to show 'Total Hours' in the dash.
- Hold down the mode button and...
- Press High Beam Flash 5 times rapidly
You'll either see a message saying 'No Active Codes' or the codes will be listed.
Pistonsblown,
Thanks for your reply.
The kill switch is defo off, no twist of throttle, it's not being touched.
It is resetting once I try to start her when pressing ignition. No probs though on earlier journey she fired up fine.
Not sure if the battery is cooked or dead but it certainly seems like the source of the problem.
Not sure why my battery kick starter is not having any affect though?
I will try your method of pulling codes and see if that reveals anything further.
Just tried and no error codes are being put on the screen but did not get the message 'no active codes' either?
Cheers
Paul M
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 04-17-2024 at 07:24 PM.
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Very Active Member
Little checking..!!
first you need to check that all your battery connections are clean and tight. Try to jump start to the posts under the seat. But sounds like the battery may be your problem. If you can take it to a car parts store and have them load test it... Good luck..!!
Gene and Ilana De Laney
Mt. Helix, California
2012 RS sm5
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
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Registered Users
The clicking but not turning over sounds like a battery issue for sure. As suggested I would try looking at the battery connections to insure they are clean, tight, and dry. If all looks good I would take the battery to get it tested and then buy a new one and try to start it.
2013 RSS
Grip Puppies, Calsci Tinted Shorty windshield, Garage remote mod
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Originally Posted by Orange monster
The clicking but not turning over sounds like a battery issue for sure. As suggested I would try looking at the battery connections to insure they are clean, tight, and dry. If all looks good I would take the battery to get it tested and then buy a new one and try to start it.
Hi all
A new battery has been ordered and will arrive in a couple of days. The battery connections look good, tight and dry, nothing out of the ordinary.
Looks like a couple of days without a bike, that sucks. Is the battery easy to change on the spyder, the neg & pos connections look unstandard being so far apart under the seat. I guess by the looks, it is located on the left side under the top panel. Do you have to remove the seat? Any tips would be very useful.
Cheers
Paul M
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Very Active Member
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Last edited by plmilligan1968; 09-26-2013 at 01:57 PM.
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Very Active Member
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Registered Users
2012 White RT Limited and 2013 Yellow ST-S Think 3 .i.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by plmilligan1968
Hi all
A new battery has been ordered and will arrive in a couple of days. The battery connections look good, tight and dry, nothing out of the ordinary.
Looks like a couple of days without a bike, that sucks. Is the battery easy to change on the spyder, the neg & pos connections look unstandard being so far apart under the seat. I guess by the looks, it is located on the left side under the top panel. Do you have to remove the seat? Any tips would be very useful.
Cheers
Paul M
If the dash is resetting it sounds like battery. Had the same thing when I bought my RS2011, fortunately it happened around the corner from the dealers so I pushed it back and got them to fit a new battery.
The back left hand panel has to be removed or at least dropped enough so you can get to the battery to undo the connectors and slide the battery out. The battery connections are on the left so it's pretty simple to do.
You lift the seat but no need to remove it. There are two plastic clippy things there that hold the left hand panel in place.
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Motorbike Professor
The battery connections are inside the left rear body panel. Those under the seat are jump start connections. Be sure the negative jump start connection is tight. That is the rear frame ground, and if loosened will not tighten without taking the bodyt panel off to get at the almost inaccessible nut. The battery connections themselves also need to be clean and tight. One more thing if you do replace the battery. If it is a dry charge battery (you or the dealer add the acid at time of purchase), it needs to sit overnight to allow the glass mats to expand and absorb the acid. Then it should be fully charged (for about 24 hours) before laying it on its side when you install it in the Spyder. Improper battery preparation will shorthen the life of the battery...or even render it inoperable.
-Scotty
2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
Mutant Trikes Forever!
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Originally Posted by NancysToy
The battery connections are inside the left rear body panel. Those under the seat are jump start connections. Be sure the negative jump start connection is tight. That is the rear frame ground, and if loosened will not tighten without taking the bodyt panel off to get at the almost inaccessible nut. The battery connections themselves also need to be clean and tight. One more thing if you do replace the battery. If it is a dry charge battery (you or the dealer add the acid at time of purchase), it needs to sit overnight to allow the glass mats to expand and absorb the acid. Then it should be fully charged (for about 24 hours) before laying it on its side when you install it in the Spyder. Improper battery preparation will shorthen the life of the battery...or even render it inoperable.
Let never a day go by without learning something. Thanks
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Did you, by any chance, press and hold the Mode button.....I did that and it prompted me to set the clock between 12 and 24 hour basis.......you may be stuck in that setup.
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Motorbike Professor
Originally Posted by Rayelljay
Did you, by any chance, press and hold the Mode button.....I did that and it prompted me to set the clock between 12 and 24 hour basis.......you may be stuck in that setup.
That's what it sounds like to me. It is waiting for you to set the clock. The mode button on the dash is prone to sticking. Use the one on the left grip.
-Scotty
2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
Mutant Trikes Forever!
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2010 RTS-SE, Orbital Blue
Originally Posted by plmilligan1968
Thanks for your reply, much appreciated!
I have just fully charged a battery starter and used it but still nothing. When I press the ignition red button after the mode button the ignition just resets just like it does when you put your key and turn it on. It just clicks once and resets the ignition (all lights come on the needles rise and fall and the safety message on the screen). It is strange that even the battery kick starter does nothing to it???
Is there a way of pulling any error codes the screen on a 2010 RS ? The previous owner says he has never had battery problems neither is there anything unusual on it that would drain charge. Any suggestions?? Is it likely that the battery has died? Is it worth ordering a new battery?
Not a great experience after only owning this since Sunday. It's a lovely machine but I need it to work :-)
Thanks in advance for any further advice.
Cheers
Paul M
I don't remember the starter button being red, just the "kill" switch being red. The starter button is down low on yhe right handlebar.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by retired1
I don't remember the starter button being red, just the "kill" switch being red. The starter button is down low on yhe right handlebar.
Oh, oh.
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Originally Posted by wyliec
Oh, oh.
I meant that the Kill switch (red button) is off (pressed down) the M (mode button) is pressed and I press the black ignition switch it doesn't start, just resets without even stirring the engine. Click, reset, lighted dash like it reboots again. I've just got home from work and it's pitch black now. First thing in the morning I will get the left pannier, pannier rack and side panel off to investigate the battery cables. I have ordered a new battery anyway as a spare is always handy Hopefully it's a loose connection and that needs tightening which will then allow me to do a few laps of the TT course :-) If not I will have to wait for the battery to arrive.
If it's a cable or battery prob I will let you all know. If the cables, connections are fine and I replace the battery and it still just resets then I have concerns but we are not there yet.
Just a quick question, any idea why she won't jump start. I have a fully charged new battery jumper but it doesn't do anything to the bike, no different at all?
Cheers
Paul M
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Originally Posted by plmilligan1968
. I've just got home from work and it's pitch black now. First thing in the morning I will get the left pannier, pannier rack and side panel off to investigate the battery cables.
Just a quick question, any idea why she won't jump start. I have a fully charged new battery jumper but it doesn't do anything to the bike, no different at all?
Cheers
Paul M
If you didn't get to the battery, [remove panels] how did you try to jump start?
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Originally Posted by boborgera
If you didn't get to the battery, [remove panels] how did you try to jump start?
Boborgera
I tried to jump start her by connecting the fully charged battery jump starter to the terminals underneath the seat. The left side is positive and the right side is negative I believe. No side panel removal was necessary. It didn't make any difference as the bike did not even stir or try to fire up with the jump starter attached.
Back to square one and remove the panels check the connections, clean them and reconnect them and try again. If still nothing, a new battery will arrive on Monday, so I will swap that out and hope for the best.
Cheers
Paul
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Originally Posted by plmilligan1968
Boborgera
I tried to jump start her by connecting the fully charged battery jump starter to the terminals underneath the seat. The left side is positive and the right side is negative I believe. No side panel removal was necessary. It didn't make any difference as the bike did not even stir or try to fire up with the jump starter attached.
Back to square one and remove the panels check the connections, clean them and reconnect them and try again. If still nothing, a new battery will arrive on Monday, so I will swap that out and hope for the best.
Cheers
Paul
If your battery is dead [fried], Or one of the terminals At the battery is off/very lose, Those terminals won't work..
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Originally Posted by boborgera
If your battery is dead [fried], Or one of the terminals At the battery is off/very lose, Those terminals won't work..
Well this morning i removed the pannier rack, indicator and side panel and battery. Cleaned the terminals reconnected the, attached a battery kick starter and fired her up. Just a click again, it doesn't even try to turnover. I've had the battery on charge for 5 hours and from start of charge to now it only zhows 4 of 5 lights charged, its not budged. After charging i reconnected the battery and fired her again, same click that seems to come from the battery followed by a second hiss. The battery recharge and kick starter has done nothing. I hope it is the battery that has just died and is not outputting enough to even turn her over. New battery arrives on Monday. My fingers and toes are crossed.
Paul M
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