Valve Check

[lapirow]

The big, dangerous, problem with these motors is the valve clearances reducing; caused by the valves wearing the seat. At least in theory. When the clearances (measured cold) are too tight, the valve (when hot) may be held off the seat and it will burn.

I do not see that "listening" (as suggested in posts) will tell you the clearances are "in spec". If the wear was between the cam and the bucket, so that it increased; yes, I can understand that; but the bearing surface between cam lobe and bucket is so large, the oil supply so great, and the area so (comparatively) cool, the idea of wear at this point is unlikely. Screw type adjusters pressing directly onto the tip of the valve stem have a much smaller bearing surface, are hotter, and are generally designed to accommodate or induce rotational movement in the valve. My past experience indicates these clearances can open up and become noisy.

At 38,000 klm I checked the valve clearances on my 2009 / 10 RS. What a bugger of a job.
The front right bolt (2 o'clock with 12:00 straight ahead) on the front cylinder top cover has restricted tool access if you cannot turn the steering column - so use jack stands - not ramps if you elevate your Spyder.

The rear cylinder top cover rear bolt (about 6:00 o'clock) is all but inaccessible. I had to unbolt the petrol tank to get a tiny bit of movement so I could get a 5 mm ball ended allen key into it for removal.

The forest of fuel lines, electrical cables, vents all to and from the throttle bodies makes it a real juggle to get the covers off and on; and restricts access and vision. This is not improved greatly by removal of the black plastic under seat shrouds (all using the push pin rivets). Under the valve covers, the shrouding on the cam holding down brackets for the lobes closest to the cam chain makes getting the feeler gauge into position difficult and requires time to verify.

Almost every minor removal / replacement task is difficult due to restricted access. Only 2 of the 6 holding down 30 Torx bolts near the velocity stacks in the air box can be removed with "normal" tools. The other 4 require a slow and difficult 30 Torx L tool, or a 1/4 drive 30 Torx using a 50 mm extension with a hex (in my case 3/8ths) head for an open spanner - there is no clearance for a ratchet due to the frame, and you can't use it without an extension because of their being hard against the velocity stack mouldings.

Even replacement of the valve covers is difficult. You must "glue" the rubber gasket to the cover because the chances of getting it seated properly in situ on replacement are slim.

The BRP manual is of some use; but it assumes the motor has been removed from the frame. Why does it make this assumption? I don't know. I could be reading it wrongly - but I could not find any guidance on overcoming simple access problems.

I know that the Spyder is not alone in having impossible access to periodic maintenance items. At least my BMW R1100S gives you reasonable access to everything except the battery, fuel filter and air cleaner..... But then, who really worries about these things?

Cheers.

[MouthPiece]

You are absolutely right. Listening doesn't do "jack". I still didn't have it done even after they listened.

Chris

[GeoffCee]

The BRP manual is of some use; but it assumes the motor has been removed from the frame. Why does it make this assumption? I don't know. I could be reading it wrongly - but I could not find any guidance on overcoming simple access problems.

This may be simplistic but could the answer have something to do with BRP only ever seeing their Rotax engines out of the frame? They build Spyders and send them to the dealers to sell them on. Sure, they suggest mileages when consumables should be renewed and certain components checked but the responsibility for carrying out these servicing tasks rests in the main with the dealer's mechanics.

A case in point is the near impossibility of getting GPS grease into the rear set of front swinging arm bearings using the factory-fitted zerks. Has anyone in BRP's Design Department ever taken a grease gun to an assembled Spyder's front suspension? Somehow I doubt it because this turns out to be just as difficult for a dealer's mechanic to carry out as it is for an enthusiastic owner to do himself.

I know this is so because my dealer's BRP-trained mechanic told me so when I asked him for guidance in getting the job done. On his advice I changed the standard zerks for 90 and 45 degree types. Bad design fixed by the outlay of a few pennies, an alteration which I feel should never have been necessary.

[sabunim5]

2008, ok at 12k, one shim needed at 24k, ok at 36k.

[Freddy]

So what size (diameter) shims do they take - 9.48 as is quite common on Japanese machines? I'm going to do mine in the near future, 2008 GS at 58,000km.

[NancysToy]

So what size (diameter) shims do they take - 9.48 as is quite common on Japanese machines? I'm going to do mine in the near future, 2008 GS at 58,000km.

I believe they are 10 mm, same as a Harley V-Rod.

[Freddy]

Thanks Scotty

I found this info on the Aprillia forum:

http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/s...-shim-diameter