I have a 09-RS SM5. Rode it to work this morning, was parked in the sun the whole day, got ready to head back home and the vehicle won't start. I took a video and I will see if I can post it here, but here is what happens.
1. Inserting the key the dash lights up as usual
2. Pressed the mode switch to turn off the scrolling message
3. Set the red engine switch to on and the either the cluster just goes blank or all the lights start flashing and both the needles start moving up and down.
I am using B.E.S.T now to get the vehicle towed back home, (no dealership open right now 6:30pm EST) and then will call the dealership tomorrow and go from there.
Was wondering if anyone could help identify this problem so I am kind of well educated before I talk to the service dept at the dealership.
Does the engine turn over at all'?? Do you hear clicking noises when you hit the start button??
If so it's a loose battery connection ,Or your battery is shot, How old is the battery??
First, check your battery connections (at the battery terminals inside the body, not the jump start terminals under the seat). Clean and tighten them. At temperature extremes the connections can loosen and allow oxidation between the battery and the wire terminal. Also check the rear frame ground (negative jump start terminal under the seat) for tightness. If that doesn't cure it, charge the battery then test it or have it tested...it is likely tired.
There is a clicking sound at times but the vehicle won't start. I still have the sane battery which came with the vehicle, when i bought it in 09. Any idea what the dealer should charge me for putting a new one?
Dealer wanted $30.00 to install. Since mine was
dead I the water and I had no way of getting it to them without paying for them to come get it I decided to do it myself. It was pretty easy.
Battery life varies as do the prices. Where you get your battery and the brand will dictate the cost. The installation will depend on your dealer but it is not hard to do. Yours is in the lower life span could last but only if you trust it now. Check all your connection like Scotty said...
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
There is a clicking sound at times but the vehicle won't start. I still have the sane battery which came with the vehicle, when i bought it in 09. Any idea what the dealer should charge me for putting a new one?
What if I hook it up to a battery tender and see if the battery revives ?
It's a great idea...but check and clean the connections first or it may not even charge. Battery tender will also not charge it if the battery is too low...you will have to charge a bit with a conventional charger (or by running the engine) first. There are three things you want to test on the battery...can it take a charge, can it hold a charge, and will it handle a load? A multimeter (DC voltmeter works best for testing. They are available everywhere at reasonable prices.
1. Charge the battery and check the voltage as soon as you as you remove it from the charger. It should read over 13 volts for a topo notch battery. Anything over 12.6 is OK, but it is weak. The battery charger may have indicator lights that will indicate a full charge.
2. Let it sit off the charger several hours to overnight. The voltage will drop, but should not be below 12.6 volts. If it is, either you have heavy parasitic losses in the vehicle electrical system or the battery won't hold a charge and should be replaced. Disconnecting the battery and testing again will tell which.
3. You can do a crude load test by holding the throttle wide open to prevent starting, and cranking the engine. With a fully charged battery the voltage while cranking should remain above 10.0 volts. Your dealer or a battery dealer can do a proper load test.
If the battery checks out but you still have to repeatedly charge it, the charging system may be suspect. At 4000 rpm the system should read 13-14 volts. If lower, have the charging system tested at your dealer.
Thanks guys for the valuable inputs. This is a first time for me so please bare with me. So I did remove the rear side panel for the first time (was really not that difficult) and could access the battery.
Attaching two images here. The battery terminals look good, no corrosion. I hooked it up to a battery tester and it shows status as good. So looks like battery is not the issue here. Anything else that I can try?
Thanks guys for the valuable inputs. This is a first time for me so please bare with me. So I did remove the rear side panel for the first time (was really not that difficult) and could access the battery.
Attaching two images here. The battery terminals look good, no corrosion. I hooked it up to a battery tester and it shows status as good. So looks like battery is not the issue here. Anything else that I can try?
Thanks.
I would still remove the battery terminals, clean the contact surfaces and re-mount them good and tight. Check your relays and make sure they are seated well. Try starting the Spyder with your tester hooked up and see what kind of voltage drop you get. Just because it reads 12 volts static doesn't mean it is a good battery.
BajaRon and Spy+ right on the money you guys. When I try to start the vehicle, the needle drops to the red zone on the battery tester. I am thinking of replacing it myself (instead of taking it to the dealer), any tips, pointers or videos out there that will help me.
Thanks.
BajaRon and Spy+ right on the money you guys. When I try to start the vehicle, the needle drops to the red zone on the battery tester. I am thinking of replacing it myself (instead of taking it to the dealer), any tips, pointers or videos out there that will help me.
Thanks.
That is what I thought would happen. Get a good quality replacement battery and do the install yourself. You'll learn something and save money too! It's really nothing more than take out the old one and put in the new one. You can do it!
BajaRon and Spy+ right on the money you guys. When I try to start the vehicle, the needle drops to the red zone on the battery tester. I am thinking of replacing it myself (instead of taking it to the dealer), any tips, pointers or videos out there that will help me.
Thanks.
Make sure all connection are clean clean clean. Connect the positive side first, make sure it is covered or not touching "anything" and then connect the ground. This helps prevent a grounding short (spark) if your wrench happens to hit something that could ground it. You can even cover the positive side w a clean dry rag til the negative side is connected if need be.
just a safety tip if you haven't done this before.
It's a great idea...but check and clean the connections first or it may not even charge. Battery tender will also not charge it if the battery is too low...you will have to charge a bit with a conventional charger (or by running the engine) first. There are three things you want to test on the battery...can it take a charge, can it hold a charge, and will it handle a load? A multimeter (DC voltmeter works best for testing. They are available everywhere at reasonable prices.
1. Charge the battery and check the voltage as soon as you as you remove it from the charger. It should read over 13 volts for a topo notch battery. Anything over 12.6 is OK, but it is weak. The battery charger may have indicator lights that will indicate a full charge.
2. Let it sit off the charger several hours to overnight. The voltage will drop, but should not be below 12.6 volts. If it is, either you have heavy parasitic losses in the vehicle electrical system or the battery won't hold a charge and should be replaced. Disconnecting the battery and testing again will tell which.
3. You can do a crude load test by holding the throttle wide open to prevent starting, and cranking the engine. With a fully charged battery the voltage while cranking should remain above 10.0 volts. Your dealer or a battery dealer can do a proper load test.
If the battery checks out but you still have to repeatedly charge it, the charging system may be suspect. At 4000 rpm the system should read 13-14 volts. If lower, have the charging system tested at your dealer.
These are very good points.
What is the protocol per BRP on charging or jumping the battery w the battery connected? I know as far as their Sea Doos go, they never want you charging or jumping starting a connected battery. (This "may" be because of possible fumes in a hull)
What is the protocol per BRP on charging or jumping the battery w the battery connected? I know as far as their Sea Doos go, they never want you charging or jumping starting a connected battery. (This "may" be because of possible fumes in a hull)
.
There are jump start terminals on the Spyder for a reason. The procedures are i n your owners manual. They do not call for disconnecting the battery. I'm sure you are right about the fumes thing in watercraft.
Spyder won't start
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Originally Posted by spyderdips
A four year-old battery has most likely "ran it's last race..." 
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