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Originally Posted by Knarfoh
On a long ride, I sometimes raise myself out of my seat for comfort reasons. I have no padding of my own. LOL. I have left my bike running and in neutral (SM5) for a quick dismount because I forgot something, but it is literally seconds and I am back. I don't think I would want a cut-off switch.
From some of these posts, it sounds like others routinely dismount their Spyders with the engine running? For me that is unusual, not routine.
9 times out of 10 I Start the Bike to let warm up- then Put gear on - Helmet/Gloves/ stuff in the trunk- then get on & do the opposite when I end the Ryde mainly because the Fan is on.
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Registered Users
Originally Posted by happyspyder2039
9 times out of 10 I Start the Bike to let warm up- then Put gear on - Helmet/Gloves/ stuff in the trunk- then get on & do the opposite when I end the Ryde mainly because the Fan is on.
Glo Ryders {4 sets (Blue, Red, Orange, Pink) I swap out}
Rear Trunk Liner ......... Seal Floorboards
Rear Trunk Shelf
Corbin Heated Seat
extra 12V plug
Elka shocks
White/Red fender lights
Bump/skid
Baker Wind Wings
Honey Burl Dash Kit
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I try to make a habit of putting it in neutral, even when I am stopped at a traffic light, that way I get in the habit of doing it anytime I am stopped. Kind of like using the kill switch rate then the key to turn the Spyder off! That way I am pretty confident that it won't take off and I am ready to kill the engine if necessary. JMHO.
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Very Active Member
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Originally Posted by happyspyder2039
9 times out of 10 I Start the Bike to let warm up- then Put gear on - Helmet/Gloves/ stuff in the trunk- then get on & do the opposite when I end the Ryde mainly because the Fan is on.
Why does the bike need to warm up? Just curious -- mine runs smoothly from the get go. When I first start it, the RPM is around 1,800 for about 5 seconds. Then it goes down to 1300 to 1400 which the dealer told me is the idling speed.
I turn the key before I put helmet, etc. on just to get past that pesky start screen so I can hit START as soon as I mount the bike, but that is it.
Obviously, the next poster agreed with you on your starting routine. I just never thought it needed "warmed up".
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Knarfoh
Why does the bike need to warm up? Just curious -- mine runs smoothly from the get go. When I first start it, the RPM is around 1,800 for about 5 seconds. Then it goes down to 1300 to 1400 which the dealer told me is the idling speed.
I turn the key before I put helmet, etc. on just to get past that pesky start screen so I can hit START as soon as I mount the bike, but that is it.
Obviously, the next poster agreed with you on your starting routine. I just never thought it needed "warmed up".
I never warm my Spyder up either.
Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.
Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)
MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles
IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
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Originally Posted by Knarfoh
Why does the bike need to warm up? Just curious -- mine runs smoothly from the get go. When I first start it, the RPM is around 1,800 for about 5 seconds. Then it goes down to 1300 to 1400 which the dealer told me is the idling speed.
I turn the key before I put helmet, etc. on just to get past that pesky start screen so I can hit START as soon as I mount the bike, but that is it.
Obviously, the next poster agreed with you on your starting routine. I just never thought it needed "warmed up".
A warm-up is not going to hurt anything as long as it doesn't take forever. On cold days when the oil is thickened, it might be a good idea. However, when it is warm and oil is not "thick", by the time the rpm's settle-down to 1300-1400 you should be ready to roll.
People are peculiar in their various rituals involving machinery. I always get a kick out of hearing and watching the various routines. I have a buddy who's routine with his bike is hilarious and a bit "macho" for my taste. I have to laugh every time, and he knows I do. LOL!
SL #7026
VBA #652
HOG #3935417
2011 Viper-Red Spyder RT SE5 & Trailer
2017 HD Ultra Limited
Former Rides: 2014 HD Ultra Limited; '04 Kawa Nomad; '09 HD Ultra-Classic; and many Hondas through the years.
Spyder Newbies Do's & Do Not's: http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...-Spyder-owners
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No one wins
In a situation such as this everyone is a loser. It is a definite lose lose for all concerned. The sad thing is the momentary lose of safety will be followed up by a definite lose of mandays, inconvience, trust and confidence between friends and riders
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Originally Posted by Knarfoh
Why does the bike need to warm up? Just curious -- mine runs smoothly from the get go. When I first start it, the RPM is around 1,800 for about 5 seconds. Then it goes down to 1300 to 1400 which the dealer told me is the idling speed.
I turn the key before I put helmet, etc. on just to get past that pesky start screen so I can hit START as soon as I mount the bike, but that is it.
Obviously, the next poster agreed with you on your starting routine. I just never thought it needed "warmed up".
I do it to let the oil get circulated & usually the bike has been sitting for a for a while.
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When you start it up cold; it'll settle into an elevated idle in the 1200-2100 rpm range...
Once it drops back to 1400-1500 rpm (A matter of maybe five seconds or less...); it's time to go!
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Very Active Member
I always put the bike in neutral if its running and i get off, mainly because I would never trust the parking brake enough to leave it in gear. I also make the wife board the spider on the non throttle side. But, as we all know, happens and at least nobody got hurt.
Rewaco RF-1 GT
Inline 4 cylinder Ford Zetec with multi-port fuel inject, 140 HP
0-60mph: 5.8 seconds
5 speed sync manual with reverse, mechanical dry clutch.
Front suspension: Trapezoidal fork with center spring
Rear suspension: Independent with Bilstein gas shock absorbers
Brake System: Grimeca calipers, linked ventilated discs, with booster
10.57 gallons
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Active Member
We are going through my insurance company insisting all damage down to the smallest scratch being repaired on my friends Harley.
I have indicated I should have turned the Spyder off or at the very least put it in neutral. In the future I will absolutely turn off the engine. Leaving it in neutral with engine running does not eliminate the possibility of someone inadvertently hitting the paddle on an SE5 and shifting the Spyder into first gear. With a faulty parking brake this could also result in an accident.
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Very Active Member
I never get on or off the bike with the engine running...never did with a two wheeler, either.
Now, my wife, when riding on the back, will often get on after I've started it, but I'm already on and she can't get anywhere near the throttle (and she knows what it is because she also rides it). I'm also on the brake when she gets on, whether it's running or not. That's habit from two wheelers, too.
AND () I never put the bike in neutral before I turn it off. I come to a stop, put on the brake, turn it off.
Anyway, since I never get on or off the bike with the engine running, it pretty much solves the problem of someone hitting the throttle when getting on or off the bike.
Phil
I may be old, but I got to see all the cool bands.
2011 Spyder RT-AC
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Originally Posted by dadof4
While on a ride today with my wife's cousin and her husband, he pulled over to the side of the road to discuss our route. I stopped behind him applying the Spyder's parking brake but leaving it in first gear. Apparently the parking brake needs to be checked. My wife, not knowing the handle bar grip is also the throttle grabbed and twisted it as she got back on the bike. It ran into the Harley and knocked it down. We will be paying to get the Harley repaired.
The Spyder will need a new bumper cover and one of the ailerons (chrome wings) to the tune of about $350. How much work is it to replace those parts? Does the whole nose need to be removed? I feel like sh*t not so much for our Spyder but for the damage to the Harley.
Thanks - Rick
When I saw the title of your post I was afraid someone was hurt. I'm glad that's not the case, but it sucks to have to go to the expense of repairs on 2 bikes. If you spend that much money you should be getting some farkles out of it.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by BikerDoc
The parking brake definitely needs to be checked. My RT won't move an inch when the brake is set. i know from when I forget to release it and try to take off just sitting there feeling stupid..
That's never happened to me, nope never, well, maybe there was this one time...
I'm sure you both feel bad for the accident.
USAF '69-'89 E7
Thailand/Vietnam 1972
Member: Royal Order of Rat Bastards
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Active Member
Repaired
My Spyder is repaired. I installed the new bumper and repaired a couple of cracks in the lower front trunk compartment. I now know how to remove the entire front end of the RT.
More important than that my friend has received a check from my insurance company ($2700) to replace every piece with even the smallest scratch on his Harley.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by dadof4
I've decided to be the fall guy. I should have turned off the Spyder or at the very least put it in neutral and not relied on the parking brake alone. She feels bad enough already.
I agree that was my first though. I always put it in neutral before applying the brake. Happy wife happy life.
2013 Mag Silver SE5 RT BahaRon Sway bar & Sway bar links, Grip Puppies, Kuryakyn Helmet locks , Ultimate Seat w/Utopia Backrest, Dash power outlet, Spyderpops BumpSkid, Swagman Cup holders, Full size Brake Pedal, Seal DLX Floorboards, Freeway Blaster horns, Sylvania Super Bright fender LEDs, Scotchlite 680 Rear & Fender Reflectors, BRP Fog Light Kit, LED Mirror turn signal strips, 2014 RT grille mod. Outlaw Laser Alignment
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