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Thread: 2014's Coming

  1. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by akspyderman View Post
    This close to introduction time, I would recommend holding off until you see what 2014 has to offer. If the 2014's are not what you want, there should be some good deals on 2013's, 2012's etc. I purchased a brand new 2011 RT A&C in July of 2012, saved a couple thousand, got a good trade in, and am very happy with the even though it was two years old (model year) when I purchased it.

    Lots of choice if you are not in a big hurry. Good luck on your hunt.
    Think I will wait then - dealer down by me is offering 2013 Spyders at invoice plus the rebate but I'm not in a hurry. I still need a license and I'm taking the driving course in a couple weeks.

  2. #52
    Registered Users joet82's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Double Trouble View Post
    If you ride a Spyder correctly you move into fifth gear around 65-70 mph when the Rotax is in the lower end of it's optimum power band. If you had a sixth gear you would be upshifting at 85-90 mph and that doesn't make a whole lot of sense.
    on my 09 RS, I have no problems shifting into 5th at 50mph. and that's when I'm casually going up through the gears. I don't really look at RPMs, but I use my speedo for my shift points. When I'm casually shifting, I go into second at 20, 3rd at 30, 4th at 40, and 5th at 50. same with downshifting.
    RS - 55K+ miles, F3 - 200 miles and counting.


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    Quote Originally Posted by joet82 View Post
    on my 09 RS, I have no problems shifting into 5th at 50mph. and that's when I'm casually going up through the gears. I don't really look at RPMs, but I use my speedo for my shift points. When I'm casually shifting, I go into second at 20, 3rd at 30, 4th at 40, and 5th at 50. same with downshifting.
    You may have no problem but your Spyder might disagree with you.
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  4. #54
    Registered Users joet82's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpyderAnn01 View Post
    You may have no problem but your Spyder might disagree with you.
    if I go below, I can hear it lugging, and obviously that's not good. but those are the marks I use, and I've never had an issue with it.
    RS - 55K+ miles, F3 - 200 miles and counting.


  5. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by joet82 View Post
    on my 09 RS, I have no problems shifting into 5th at 50mph. and that's when I'm casually going up through the gears. I don't really look at RPMs, but I use my speedo for my shift points. When I'm casually shifting, I go into second at 20, 3rd at 30, 4th at 40, and 5th at 50. same with downshifting.
    Quote Originally Posted by joet82 View Post
    if I go below, I can hear it lugging, and obviously that's not good. but those are the marks I use, and I've never had an issue with it.
    Whether it seems so to you or not, you really are shifting too soon. If you glance at your rpm immediately after the shift you will notice that it is below the recommended minimums for clutch longevity with an SE. Besides that, your Spyder is far from happy. It doesn't really wake up until 5,000 rpm. Hitting second at 20 isn't so bad, although the Spyder actually prefers a bit more, but the remainder are definitely too low...especially for 5th gear. There is no way on earth you can maintain over 3,500 rpm in fifth at that speed.
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  6. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by joet82 View Post
    if I go below, I can hear it lugging, and obviously that's not good. but those are the marks I use, and I've never had an issue with it.

    You may not think so but your engine has to be lugging at 50 mph in fifth gear.
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  7. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by ARCTIC View Post
    I want a CVT transmission
    A CVT... I've actually given a lot of thought to that... Paricularly when talk turns to an all-wheel drive Spyder. Can Am has the powertrain and engine already running in their Commander 1000. All-Wheel drive AND the CVT to boot!

    BUT...
    The CVTs that we know and love won't work well in this application... CVTs are tremendously efficient; but only within a VERY narrow range of operaton. The current models don't offer a wide enough range of "gearing" to allow for a decent top-end. Currently; the fastest of the ATVs or UTVs on might run about 75mph...
    True; some of that is due to the manufacturers being terrified of what might happen if they turned them loose without limitations... but you're still not going to be able to add anywhere NEAR another 30 mph or so on top, and still have low enough gearing to get you off the line smartly...
    And have you ever had to replace a sheave after you've "grooved" it from too many dragracing starts?
    I also think that the drivebelt that is used in them might not survive the heat under the Tupperware...
    For the record:
    I've played with CVTs since the mid-sixties...
    I've changed flyweights, spacers, rollers, and springs up front in the primary clutch
    I've poiished secondary ramps
    I've changed secondary heixes
    I've played with the reduction levels in the chaincases...
    You end up moving the acceleration rates around; but it almost always costs you something in another place...

    But Doc would have a BALL with a CVT on a Spyder...
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  8. #58
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    Default 2014

    I'd say floor boards will become standard on SE5's with pegs becoming optional. New tinted windshields are a possibility for southern states.

    These are just guesses based on instinct.

  9. #59
    Doru the Destroyer-Spyder Photo Investigator docdoru's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    But Doc would have a BALL with a CVT on a Spyder...
    Sure, bring it on...
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  10. #60
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    You would have so many new variables to play with, that you'd never come out of the shop... Except to test the results!
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  11. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    A CVT... I've actually given a lot of thought to that... Paricularly when talk turns to an all-wheel drive Spyder. Can Am has the powertrain and engine already running in their Commander 1000. All-Wheel drive AND the CVT to boot!

    BUT...
    The CVTs that we know and love won't work well in this application... CVTs are tremendously efficient; but only within a VERY narrow range of operaton. The current models don't offer a wide enough range of "gearing" to allow for a decent top-end. Currently; the fastest of the ATVs or UTVs on might run about 75mph...
    True; some of that is due to the manufacturers being terrified of what might happen if they turned them loose without limitations... but you're still not going to be able to add anywhere NEAR another 30 mph or so on top, and still have low enough gearing to get you off the line smartly...
    And have you ever had to replace a sheave after you've "grooved" it from too many dragracing starts?
    I also think that the drivebelt that is used in them might not survive the heat under the Tupperware...
    For the record:
    I've played with CVTs since the mid-sixties...
    I've changed flyweights, spacers, rollers, and springs up front in the primary clutch
    I've poiished secondary ramps
    I've changed secondary heixes
    I've played with the reduction levels in the chaincases...
    You end up moving the acceleration rates around; but it almost always costs you something in another place...

    But Doc would have a BALL with a CVT on a Spyder...
    I am not mechanical so cannot discuss the above very well. My latest car (Subaru Forester 2014) has a CVT and I like it a lot. It has the power to get up and go and gives me about 31 mpg on top of that. I have seen some motorcycles with it offered--but have not had the opportunity to see how I like them. Had a 1976 Hondamatic 750--was that also a form of CVT? You just put it in drive and it would wind out like a jet.
    Last edited by ARtraveler; 08-17-2013 at 03:11 PM.

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  12. #62
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    Can someone message me the proper shift points. I see no fifth gear below 70 but what about before that? Thanks
    09 GS SE5

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  13. #63
    Very Active Member ARtraveler's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KEBIE View Post
    Can someone message me the proper shift points. I see no fifth gear below 70 but what about before that? Thanks
    You should be shifting by tach (RPM's) rather than by speed or sound.

    Recommend: Shift between 5000-5500 rpms for the upshifts. That will put you at about 65 mph for 5th gear. Downshifting: You can let the downshift by itself if you want. I usually downshift between 3500-4500 rpms. The above, gives me a seamless, non clunky shift.

    Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.

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    MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles

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  14. #64
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    Do you have an "ESSIE", or an "ESSEM"?
    The SE-5 transmissions don't like it when the rpms drop below about 3500 or so... Their clutches aren't fully locked up until then, and the'll burn the plates up!
    The SM-5 transmssions are the typical motorcycle style transmission; you can actuall run them at about any rpm level that you want without worrying about damage... but the bikes like to rev...
    Which Spyder do you have?
    The pre-2013 GS/RS models were tuned for less torque, but more horsepower. This tuning moved the powerband about 750 rpm or so further up the tach... They REALLY like the revs!
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  15. #65
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    Default Just Spoke to a Local Dealer About 2014 Changes

    I stopped by Temecula Motorsports on Friday to kill some time between business appointments. I started talking to a salesman (who seemed quite knowledgeable about Spyders) about possible changes to the RT for 2014. He said that from what he has herd from BRP the changes will be minor since the 2013 was a fairly significant update. I have no idea if he is right or not but it seems to make sense. If I were to make a bet I'd say that the next significant update won't be until 2015 or 2016. Look at other bikes on the market, many of them go years without any major changes (Goldwings, Victorys, BMW's, etc.) only incremental updates. Unless there is some compelling reason to do a major update, why would BRP invest in the cost when the current machine is still state of the art and now (finally) becoming fairly reliable.

    Then again, I could be way off base!!

  16. #66
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    What you've said makes about the most sense...
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  17. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by Double Trouble View Post
    If you ride a Spyder correctly you move into fifth gear around 65-70 mph when the Rotax is in the lower end of it's optimum power band. If you had a sixth gear you would be upshifting at 85-90 mph and that doesn't make a whole lot of sense.

    I rarely use fifth gear unless we are running in a 70-75 speed limit zone and my fuel mileage runs around 31-33 mpg. If the Rotax is lugged down under 4,000 rpm you will find it uses more fuel than if you run it in the rpm range where it is most comfortable and performs best.

    A Spyder is not like most bikes.
    You are right about a Spyder not like most bikes. Every car,truck, bike has more gears than they ever did in the past. Figure that out why and you have your answer.

  18. #68
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    I'd like to see a 6-speed where 2-6 are the current 1-5 and first gear is geared so it hits the redline at about 30-35 MPH. The current first gear is good to about 55 MPH and doesn't get into the power band until almost 30 MPH. That's too high IMO.


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  19. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by bruiser View Post
    Warp core.
    Cheaper on any fuel ... A Mr. Fusion to go with the flux Cap. Beer cans and garbage for fuel .. A empty 6 pack to the moon and back milage. I'd like to see BRP address the heat issues. 174 f crotch temps might limit the younger crowds procreation rates

  20. #70
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    After reading DoggyDaddy's post, and remembering the major redesign of 2013; You'll get BNGs this year. and probably not much else while they work on the issues...
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  21. #71
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    Those lucky enough to be coming to Spyderquest, will know about the 2014 Spyder.......... I will tell you that it has three wheels !!!!!
    Last edited by arntufun; 08-18-2013 at 05:47 PM.

  22. #72
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    So; you're having them deliver Holly's 2014 RT Limited right to the campsite?
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  23. #73
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    Default BNG?

    Hi - What is BNG? Second question - will dealers sell the 2013 at a discount once the 2014's are released? I can buy a 2013 ST-S for 17.5 although I really want an ST Limited.

  24. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by thedonva View Post
    Hi - What is BNG? Second question - will dealers sell the 2013 at a discount once the 2014's are released? I can buy a 2013 ST-S for 17.5 although I really want an ST Limited.
    Bng= bold new graphics
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  25. #75
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    Oh! Sorry ... moto-speak fo Bold New Graphics...
    Arctic!
    You beat me to it...
    Were you the one who had issues adding HIDs to your bike?
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

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