Shock re-locators

[MrLooney]

Does the RonBar effect the Spyders height?

NO! The Ron Bar does NOT effect the height of your Spyder!

[coz]

From what I understand. The RS and RT shocks are the same length for 2012 and before. The 2013 shock is longer to make up for the higher mounting point. So the height for the RS should not change when the RT shocks are installed, and I do not recall there being a difference when I installed the RT shocks on my (prior) RS. Not that there might have been a change, but I did not notice it at that time.

I do know that the 2013 is a bit longer than the 2011 shock that I was able to view next to each other, but I do not know if these shocks were from a RS/ST/RT. I was told by my mechanic the 2013 shock is longer to adjust for the higher mounting point, and if the relocator was installed the shock would then be that distance too short. That is why he said the relocator is a bad idea unless you also install the longer 2013 shock.

that's good to know

[Chupaca]

I have an RS 2012 and installed the BajaRon sway bar which made a big difference. I later added the Pitbull relocation blocks adding a lot to the handling. The combination of the two is impressive. I have the stock shock and if needed will go to the RT shocks next. (a lot of those around cheap) this has been my experience and I love the improvement...

[Sarge707]

I have an RS 2012 and installed the BajaRon sway bar which made a big difference. I later added the Pitbull relocation blocks adding a lot to the handling. The combination of the two is impressive. I have the stock shock and if needed will go to the RT shocks next. (a lot of those around cheap) this has been my experience and I love the improvement...

After Trying the RT shocks on my 09 GS from #5 thru #1 Stiffness with the RonBar I actually went back to the Stock 09GS shocks on #4-5 with the RonBar and for a 200 Pound single rider I Like the ride better because I feel the movement of the Spyder as opposed to it being so Much on rails? I thought the Elka,s were terrible on the GS. Too stiff.

[NancysToy]

From what I understand. The RS and RT shocks are the same length for 2012 and before. The 2013 shock is longer to make up for the higher mounting point. So the height for the RS should not change when the RT shocks are installed, and I do not recall there being a difference when I installed the RT shocks on my (prior) RS. Not that there might have been a change, but I did not notice it at that time.

I do know that the 2013 is a bit longer than the 2011 shock that I was able to view next to each other, but I do not know if these shocks were from a RS/ST/RT. I was told by my mechanic the 2013 shock is longer to adjust for the higher mounting point, and if the relocator was installed the shock would then be that distance too short. That is why he said the relocator is a bad idea unless you also install the longer 2013 shock.

Although the shocks are the same length, changing to a shock with a higher spring rate (or increasing the spring preload) will raise the front slightly. More importantly, it will reduce the amount the ride height drops when the Spyder is loaded or mounted.

[Chupaca]

After Trying the RT shocks on my 09 GS from #5 thru #1 Stiffness with the RonBar I actually went back to the Stock 09GS shocks on #4-5 with the RonBar and for a 200 Pound single rider I Like the ride better because I feel the movement of the Spyder as opposed to it being so Much on rails? I thought the Elka,s were terrible on the GS. Too stiff.

We are actually quite happy where we are at in the handling department. Also thought the RT shocks would be to stiff and with the relocation blocks raise the front end even more..

[NancysToy]

The biggest advantage to the RT shocks is that they have significantly increased damping. The preload can be adjusted to a low enough level to approximate the RS shocks set up at 4-5.

[Bob Denman]

So they just about get started, where the RS shock leave off...

[blambert]

I have the Ron bar, shock relocators and Elka shocks. Putting the relocators rasiend the nose of the bike. I backed off three turns on both sides. Does anyone know what is the correct height distance for standard RS nose to ground? I can then set the Elka springs so i can get back to standard nose to ground height.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I have the Ron bar, shock relocators and Elka shocks. Putting the relocators rasiend the nose of the bike. I backed off three turns on both sides. Does anyone know what is the correct height distance for standard RS nose to ground? I can then set the Elka springs so i can get back to standard nose to ground height.

What really really matters is how the Spyder handles ....No matter what height it's at............There's not much you can do to bring down the center of GRAVITY of the Spyder .....I have tried ...........You can use a Shock with a shorter over-all length or you can Drill a New Hole for the Top of the OEM shock in the frame at a much higher position and weld Supporting metal around the new hole and be prepared to trim some of the "TUPPERWARE" ( THIS IS FOR THE 08 TO 2012 FRAME)....and this might get you 1/2 to 3/4 inches lower at the front of the frame.......Exactly how BRP arrives at the number 4 1/2 inches of ground clearance is a mystery .......where is the Pre-load set at ....front and rear.....is someone on the spyder .....and if so what is the weight of the person/object.....Just food for thought....Mike

[Bob Denman]

The best way to bring down the center of gravity; bolt some lead weights to the SST farme...

[Sarge707]

I have the Ron bar, shock relocators and Elka shocks. Putting the relocators rasiend the nose of the bike. I backed off three turns on both sides. Does anyone know what is the correct height distance for standard RS nose to ground? I can then set the Elka springs so i can get back to standard nose to ground height.

I did a lot of measuring from the top lip of the GS/RS nose to the ground and here is what I found-

RS Stock shocks at #4= 7"
RS Stock shocks at #5= 7.25"

RT shocks on RS
RT Shocks at #1= 5.75 "
RT Shocks at #5= 7.25"

Elka shocks with 9" Preload= 7.25"
If you Elka,s are at 8.5 or 8.75 preload the front end will be respectfully Higher.

Time to get out your ruler!

[Sarge707]

So they just about get started, where the RS shock leave off...

Its not as easy as that -I just changed shocks 2 times between Stock and rt shocks on my GS and I ran the RT shocks at every level # and did the same Bumpy coarse around a reservoir and I really don,t care if they have more dampning because the stock GS/RS Shock on #4 outperformed the RT shock every time for ride comfort and the turns were similar because of the Ron Bar!

[BajaRon]

Its not as easy as that -I just changed shocks 2 times between Stock and rt shocks on my GS and I ran the RT shocks at every level # and did the same Bumpy coarse around a reservoir and I really don,t care if they have more dampning because the stock GS/RS Shock on #4 outperformed the RT shock every time for ride comfort and the turns were similar because of the Ron Bar!

I think they call this 'Personal Preference'.... Or, 'Better is in the eye of the beholder'...

[blambert]

I know that when I put the relocators on with the Elka's from the RT front shocks ( I have a 2011 RS) I noticed the nose / body was higher than before and I also noticed that when going around some twisties with my wife on the back I could raise the inside (going into the turn) front tire off the ground which spooked me - I dropped down three turns on the elka's and went out with her again and could not raise the inside front tire off the ground, but also didn't push it as hard. So definately a difference with raising the center of gravity from before and after with Relocators.

Thank you for providing the noise heigt, I can go play again with the suspension

Regards,

Lambo

[Mayhem]

Let me throw my 2cents in here, and yes that's all it's worth. I had the relocators put on my 2010RT just prior to Spyderfest. I noticed when we went on a trip to Texas at the end of May that the roadster seemed to want to veer to the left but thought oh it is just me because I had a passenger. Then we went on a 5,000 mile vacation trip to 9 states in late June early July and I could hardly keep the thing on the mountain roads. My hubby was on his Harley and at first I don't think he thought it was as bad as I was trying to explain. Although he later confessed he had noticed it on the trip to Texas(we both drove my spyder). I live in Missouri. When we were in upstate Nebraska a man saw me at a gas station and he was the one that noticed the left tire. It was BALD on the outer edge. He of course scared the #$%@&* out of me and said if the tire blew, the fender would blow. Anyway, we got it back to Missouri ok, and found the alignment was WAY off. My suggestion is, if you are going to get the relocators get an alignment. I was having them put relocators on a 2010 Spyder that probably needed an alignment. However now in our eyes its the relocators that took the spyder out of alignment. So word to the wise. It's a good product and glad I have it but be smart.

I read this last night and today looked at my tires, both fronts are wearing unevenly after only 1000 miles of riding with the relocators. I had heard nothing about getting an alignment when installing these. I like the way the bike handles with them on but I'm going on a trip in a couple of days so off they come tomorrow. The RSS only has four thousand miles on it and in my inspections previously I had observed no uneven wear. I am glad for Shewhoprays post, because I probably would have ruined a set of tires on this trip. After I get back i will see if the dealer is able to align the Spyder with the relocators installed.
Also I have noticed recently that the headlights have been "flashing" the roadsigns a lot, so they most likely need readjustment when the relocators are installed.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I read this last night and today looked at my tires, both fronts are wearing unevenly after only 1000 miles of riding with the relocators. I had heard nothing about getting an alignment when installing these. I like the way the bike handles with them on but I'm going on a trip in a couple of days so off they come tomorrow. The RSS only has four thousand miles on it and in my inspections previously I had observed no uneven wear. I am glad for Shewhoprays post, because I probably would have ruined a set of tires on this trip. After I get back i will see if the dealer is able to align the Spyder with the relocators installed.
Also I have noticed recently that the headlights have been "flashing" the roadsigns a lot, so they most likely need readjustment when the relocators are installed.

#1. The re-locators will only effect the toe a very small amount , and in this short amount of mileage I doubt your wear problem is related to the RE-LOCATORS I would bet a bunch that if you have inside tire wear on both front tires you have TOO LITTLE TOE - IN and need to add some...............#2. On the headlite thing the Spyder does not have a conventional HIGH / LOW beam.....it's really all the same..The way BRP did the headlite was to put in a "SHUTTER " and this is what the other drivers are seeing bouncing up and down, and they think you are ...flashing them.....I believe the dealer can adjust how tight the shutter is....Maybe Scotty will chime in here.....Mike

[Mayhem]

#1. The re-locators will only effect the toe a very small amount , and in this short amount of mileage I doubt your wear problem is related to the RE-LOCATORS I would bet a bunch that if you have inside tire wear on both front tires you have TOO LITTLE TOE - IN and need to add some...............#2. On the headlite thing the Spyder does not have a conventional HIGH / LOW beam.....it's really all the same..The way BRP did the headlite was to put in a "SHUTTER " and this is what the other drivers are seeing bouncing up and down, and they think you are ...flashing them.....I believe the dealer can adjust how tight the shutter is....Maybe Scotty will chime in here.....Mike

Mike, Thank you for your response, the tires are wearing evenly to the outside. As to the shutter, I really hope I'm not flashing everyone as I find the modulator headlights very irritating. I will find a straight stretch and drop off my better half and see what's up with that. And as always Scotty's as well as your expertise is appreciated.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Mike, Thank you for your response, the tires are wearing evenly to the outside. As to the shutter, I really hope I'm not flashing everyone as I find the modulator headlights very irritating. I will find a straight stretch and drop off my better half and see what's up with that. And as always Scotty's as well as your expertise is appreciated.

The above advice I gave was for the MOST common front tire issue....If you have even tire wear on the outside edge you have TOO MUCH TOE IN....and you need to remove some of the toe ( lessen it ). I recommend you locate a dealer that has the NEW LAZER alignment set-up ( we have had a very long thread about this recently , LaMont even bought one )......annnnnnnnnnnnd you are not FLASHING anyone , it's the way the hi/ low beam is set up on the Spyder. During the daytime when I drive mine I just keep the High Beams on and that LOCKS the shutter.....during the day the highbeams won't bother anyone's vision........and Thanks for the compliment But the only EXPERT I KNOW HERE IS SCOTTY

[NancysToy]

Mike, Thank you for your response, the tires are wearing evenly to the outside. As to the shutter, I really hope I'm not flashing everyone as I find the modulator headlights very irritating. I will find a straight stretch and drop off my better half and see what's up with that. And as always Scotty's as well as your expertise is appreciated.

As the Spyder is loaded, it toes out; as it is raised it toes in. Your symptoms indicate too much toe-in, probably a result of the relocators, front spring preload, or both. Removal of the relocators or realignment is a good idea. The headlights need to be aimed again after suspension modifications. That is why you are flashing the signs. Adjust them lower (or remove the suspension mods) and run with brights on in the daytime.

[Bob Denman]

So if you change the ride-height up OR down; it toes out?
That seems counter-intuitive to me... But I don't know what I'm talking about anyway!

[NancysToy]

So if you change the ride-height up OR down; it toes out?
That seems counter-intuitive to me... But I don't know what I'm talking about anyway!

My mistake Bob. I have corrected it. You are a good proof reader...far better than I am.

[Bob Denman]

See; that scares me! I KNOW how bad my eyeballs are!
I never meant to try and catch you in one; I figured that there'd be some sort of convoluted explanation about the suspension design that made it possible..

[lapirow]

[QUOTE=BLUEKNIGHT911;671066]

If you have even tire wear on the outside edge you have TOO MUCH TOE IN....and you need to remove some of the toe ( lessen it ).
The front suspension is 2 "A" arms attached to a stub axle. I can understand that the "tilt" of the wheel (I believe this to be camber) may vary throughout the total sweep of suspension movement (up and down) but I don't see how toe-in is clearly affected. I understand toe-in to refer to the degree by which the wheel deviates from "straight ahead". I know I have messed with this on sidecars to balance the tendency of wind load to turn the outfit to the left (remember I am in Oz and we ride on the correct side of the road). If toe-in were significantly affected by an increase in ride height the wheel alignment procedure in the manual would specify setting it with a load on board. My best guess is that as the wheel travels up and down, the tie rods are effectively lengthened and shortened by reason of the change in angle caused by movement of the stub axle being pulled "in" (toe-out) or pushed "out" (toe-in) and the change should be uniform, right & left. With good measuring equipment it should be something that can be quantified and so a judgment can be made of the need for probable adjustment to the wheel alignment .

[GeoffCee]

I was having them put relocators on a 2010 Spyder that probably needed an alignment. However now in our eyes its the relocators that took the spyder out of alignment. So word to the wise. It's a good product and glad I have it but be smart.

And we are smarter because you took the trouble to post your experience. Sharing stuff is what makes this forum great. Thank you.