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  1. #1
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    Default Spyder RT cuts off while traveling and at stop lights .

    2011 Spyder RT cut off while going down highway. Anyone have an idea what the problem is or how to fix it. The dealership says they don't know.

  2. #2
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    When it does this; do you see any red blinking lights in the tachometer display?
    Did you try to pull up any active error codes?
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  3. #3
    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default Let's see..!!

    could be electrical or fuel. Like Roger said check the fuel filter. Check all ground and positive connections. Don't know the mileage or fuel used. Some additives could also help. We assume it starts back up and runs fine till the next time. Could be bad gas as well. Does it happen after a bump in the road.. Things to try, good luck and let us know for future reference...
    Gene and Ilana De Laney
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    2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black

  4. #4
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    Lost wires of e stop switch? Did you able to restart the engine? Dealer should able to replicate it.
    2012 Spyder RT SE5 Brake pedal mod

  5. #5
    Very Active Member MidLifeCrisis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jerpinoy View Post
    Lost wires of e stop switch? Did you able to restart the engine? Dealer should able to replicate it.
    Kill switch or a bad console is my thought as well. I'm pretty sure the dealer told me it made seething like a Bluetooth connection. It may be a line, but I had to gave both swapped to eliminate the surprise visits from the kill fairy!


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  6. #6
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    Mine would die at stop lights. It was the vacuum hoses.

  7. #7
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    My good friend had the same issue with his 2011 RSS. The dealer couldn't figure it out either. It was worse in the heat. The dealer swapped a bunch of parts with no success.
    All of his problems went away when he bypassed and ditched the canister, blocking off the purge valve..... Machine hasn't stalled once in well over a year of riding.

  8. #8
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    check the vacuum hoses!!!!!!!

  9. #9
    Very Active Member jwulf74's Avatar
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    Sounds like the germlin bell fluid may be low...

    Vaccum hoses and battery connection sound like a great place to start though.

  10. #10
    Motorbike Professor NancysToy's Avatar
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    Lots of possibilities. What you really need is a dealer who will do more than merely shrug his shouders. That's pretty lame! There are some things you can (and should) check yourself. Check the relays in the fusebox to see that they are seated properly. Check the battery connections inside the bodywork (not the jump start terminals under the seat) for cleanliness and tightness. Check the rear frame ground (negative jump start terminal under the seat) for tightness. The front frame ground is a possibility, too, but it is hard for an owner to access readily. Beyond that it could be vacuum hoses, wiring connectors, bad kill switch, ignition problems, fuel filter, or a host of other things. Could even be Miss Nanny, depending on the conditions and how you were riding. If it is leaving no fault codes that the dealer can narrow things down with, it will come down to testing or replaceing all the possible culprits until the problem is found.
    -Scotty
    2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
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    Mutant Trikes Forever!

  11. #11
    Very Active Member flaggerphil's Avatar
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    I have no idea what's causing it, but you may need to find another dealer.
    Phil

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    2011 Spyder RT-AC


  12. #12
    Very Active Member stewartj239's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Riverwatcher1 View Post
    2011 Spyder RT cut off while going down highway. Anyone have an idea what the problem is or how to fix it. The dealership says they don't know.
    I have a 2013 RT-S with 1400 miles and it has done the same thing since day one. For me, it will stall when it is standing still - either at a stop sign / light, or at home in the driveway. It has even done it while in neutral, in the driveway when I wasn't even on it, so I know it has nothing to do with being in gear. For mine, it is really a skip, then a stall. Sometimes, when it skips, it doesn't stall, but the RPMs will rise quickly, then come back down. I haven't taken it back to the dealer yet because I don't want to lose it during the summer months and it is not a huge issue. I have the SM5, so all I have to do is pull in the clutch and hit the start button. It always fires right back up immediately, but the problem is annoying.

  13. #13
    Registered Users SpydherLuv's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stewartj239 View Post
    I have a 2013 RT-S with 1400 miles and it has done the same thing since day one. For me, it will stall when it is standing still - either at a stop sign / light, or at home in the driveway. It has even done it while in neutral, in the driveway when I wasn't even on it, so I know it has nothing to do with being in gear. For mine, it is really a skip, then a stall. Sometimes, when it skips, it doesn't stall, but the RPMs will rise quickly, then come back down. I haven't taken it back to the dealer yet because I don't want to lose it during the summer months and it is not a huge issue. I have the SM5, so all I have to do is pull in the clutch and hit the start button. It always fires right back up immediately, but the problem is annoying.
    I have a 2011 RT-S and had experienced stalling issues when I first got her - only during stops, never while traveling. It took the dealer a few tries, but they eventually got it fixed after the 3,000 mile service. They replaced the spark plugs and performed campaign# 2012-4 (Updated Throttle Body Actuator). So, I'm not sure if it was the plugs or the campaign, or doing both that fixed the issue, but since this time, I have not had any issues with the engine cutting out. I hope this helps and good luck to those of you with this issue. Make your dealer do their job and if they don't, find another dealer.

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