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  1. #1
    Very Active Member ARCTIC's Avatar
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    Default spyder looks way tougher without the frunk

    I think there should be an aftermarket kit to toughen up the appearance of the spyder. They look awesome without the frunk. This was my first frunk removal and it's kinda shocking that there isn't much holding it onIMG_20130725_152018_857.jpg
    2017 Chevrolet Camaro SS convertible. 2017 GMC Sierra cc diesel. 2017 Arctic cat RR 137 ES

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    And you're right; it does look pretty mean!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  3. #3
    Registered Users EnjoyingTheRyde's Avatar
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    Default Nice view!

    Looking at your picture brings up a question... Does the frunk have to come off in order to install a new anti-sway bar? I'm going to buy one for my wifes RT-S for a winter install and am going to try to install it myself...
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  4. #4
    Registered Users lookerjdc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by EnjoyingTheRyde View Post
    Looking at your picture brings up a question... Does the frunk have to come off in order to install a new anti-sway bar? I'm going to buy one for my wifes RT-S for a winter install and am going to try to install it myself...
    no, you dont have to remove the frunk to install the BajaRon anti sway bar and yes, some sort of rounded nose peice might be a better option, sort of like.... gg-taurus-2.jpg

    there could be a way to add storage to that nose
    Last edited by lookerjdc; 07-26-2013 at 02:39 PM.
    1. it is what it is - 2014 Black RT-S - Baja Ron Anti-Sway bar, lots of LEDs, Spyderpops Skid Plate, Twisted Sister HID Driving Lights, Tricled 2nd, 3rd & 4th brake lights, F4 Customs vented windshield, Lamonster highway pegs, Ultimate Tall Boy seat, Utopia backrest



  5. #5
    Very Active Member ARCTIC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by EnjoyingTheRyde View Post
    Looking at your picture brings up a question... Does the frunk have to come off in order to install a new anti-sway bar? I'm going to buy one for my wifes RT-S for a winter install and am going to try to install it myself...
    I think you have to at least loosen it up but at that point u might as well get it out of the way
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  6. #6
    Very Active Member Highwayman2013's Avatar
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    You just have to move it out a little on the bottom to get the bolts out. No need for removal. Unless you want to, of course.
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  7. #7
    Free Thinking Member mxz600's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by EnjoyingTheRyde View Post
    Looking at your picture brings up a question... Does the frunk have to come off in order to install a new anti-sway bar? I'm going to buy one for my wifes RT-S for a winter install and am going to try to install it myself...
    It's not necessary but helpful. Sometimes taking the extra effort to make things easier to work on is a road well traveled.

    I had heard how hard it was to install HID lights in my RS. Well if you're trying to do it through the hole left from removing the speedo cluster, it is. It took me about fifteen minutes to remove the windshield, turn signals and the top portion (dash board?), it was a piece of cake.
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  8. #8
    Very Active Member Flanker's Avatar
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    Nyet!

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  9. #9
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    Default

    It Really does look pretty bad**s without the frunk - like some kind of transformer.

  10. #10
    Very Active Member grumpybob's Avatar
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    Looks like it should help the heat problems.

  11. #11
    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default Sway bar..!!

    you don't have to remove the frunk but you do have to remove the two 10mm bolts that hold the bottom portion and place a 2x4 block between the frunk and frame..it is well explained in the instructions..good luck..!!
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  12. #12
    Registered Users EnjoyingTheRyde's Avatar
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    Default Thanks for the info...

    Sorry to hijack, there are all kinds of crazy things we could do to the frunk area, I kind of like the shortened nose pic...
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  13. #13
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    I wonder if you could move the electronics and get everything buttoned up for a run like that?
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  14. #14
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    I agree! BRP should consider doing a naked version of the RS. No plastics, maybe do two big round headlights on the front, no fenders......


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  15. #15
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    Simple nose piece with snorkels for cooling the rad. A quick swap kit for the longer trips. No more roasted nuts maybe!

  16. #16
    Very Active Member ARCTIC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    I wonder if you could move the electronics and get everything buttoned up for a run like that?
    The only electronics is the horn and the air temp/pressure sensor. Both could easily be relocated
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  17. #17
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    Default tougher looking spider

    Quote Originally Posted by lookerjdc View Post
    no, you dont have to remove the frunk to install the BajaRon anti sway bar and yes, some sort of rounded nose peice might be a better option, sort of like.... gg-taurus-2.jpg

    there could be a way to add storage to that nose
    Please tell me what this ride is. I really like the look. Thanks much

  18. #18
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    Thumbs down Trunk R&R

    Why work around when you get in and work on it? Never understood that, if its in the way move it out of the way.....

  19. #19
    Very Active Member ARCTIC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Ledford View Post
    Why work around when you get in and work on it? Never understood that, if its in the way move it out of the way.....
    It's really easy to take off also
    2017 Chevrolet Camaro SS convertible. 2017 GMC Sierra cc diesel. 2017 Arctic cat RR 137 ES

  20. #20
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    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by charles4690 View Post
    Please tell me what this ride is. I really like the look. Thanks much
    Taurus trike made by G&G in Switzerland......Mucho dinero!! Not homologated for the USA (yet) BMW 1293cc 4cyl. motor.
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  21. #21
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    But you should PM Docdoru for the latest updates...
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

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