2013 RT LTD - analog fuel gauge - accuracy - NOT !

[M&Ms_Spyder]

OK… I am a first time Spyder owner, of a new one week old 2013 RT Limited… it appears the analog fuel gauge is completely nuttier than a fruit cake.
At an indicated 1/2 tank, it will hold 1.5 - 1.7 gallons. I’ve filled it twice now with the gauge showing roughly half a tank. Both times it would only hold approximately a gallon and a half.
I talked to the Service Mgr. at my dealer about this. He says, “unfortunately” this is “normal”. WTF… are you kidding me? This is a $30,000 discretionary “toy” and it has obvious design flaws like this? Well this is just one of its issues, but I digress, back to the topic of this post.
If I believe the manual, the Spyder holds 6.6 gallons of fuel. So, I decide to drive the new beast until I get a low fuel warning light on the dash and find out just how much fuel is really left in the tank. So I drive it awhile, light comes on at a stop light, analog fuel gauge needle is just touching the “red zone”. Low fuel light goes off when I take off from the light, but to be safe, I pull into a liquid-gold, highway robbery station. The Spyder will accept only 3.1 gallons of fuel! So, the low fuel warning comes on when the tank is more than ½ full! This is ridiculous - normal? I think not. This is unacceptable performance to me.
My dealer says that he has unplugged the analog gauge on some customers Spyders due to this very reason, because unplugging the analog gauge causes the digital gauge in the multi-function display to then activate, which he says is much more accurate. Surely BRP does NOT think this is OK - please tell me this is not what to expect from BRP going forward.

Before I jump on the dealer again or complain loudly to BRP, I wanted to get some other Spyder owners feedback on how accurate their RT’s analog fuel gauge is. So… please chime in! Heck... at this point, I'd like to know how accurate the digital one is also - Before I unplug the analog unit, that is apparently there just for looks....

[Rotaxer]

Mine acted the same way as many others have done. Have a 2010 and unplugged the analog Fuel gauge (which also disables analog Temp gauge) and yes digital gauges do appear and are very accurate. From what I understand the Analog gauges were an added option which were a mistake! I have replaced analog Fuel with a Volt meter gauge and plan on replacing temp. with a analog clock.

Clock http://prosportgauges.com/12-volt-Pr...ber-White.aspx

Fuel http://prosportgauges.com/amber-whit...olt-gauge.aspx

[Cruzr Joe]

OK… I am a first time Spyder owner, of a new one week old 2013 RT Limited… it appears the analog fuel gauge is completely nuttier than a fruit cake.
At an indicated 1/2 tank, it will hold 1.5 - 1.7 gallons. I’ve filled it twice now with the gauge showing roughly half a tank. Both times it would only hold approximately a gallon and a half.
I talked to the Service Mgr. at my dealer about this. He says, “unfortunately” this is “normal”. WTF… are you kidding me? This is a $30,000 discretionary “toy” and it has obvious design flaws like this? Well this is just one of its issues, but I digress, back to the topic of this post.
If I believe the manual, the Spyder holds 6.6 gallons of fuel. So, I decide to drive the new beast until I get a low fuel warning light on the dash and find out just how much fuel is really left in the tank. So I drive it awhile, light comes on at a stop light, analog fuel gauge needle is just touching the “red zone”. Low fuel light goes off when I take off from the light, but to be safe, I pull into a liquid-gold, highway robbery station. The Spyder will accept only 3.1 gallons of fuel! So, the low fuel warning comes on when the tank is more than ½ full! This is ridiculous - normal? I think not. This is unacceptable performance to me.
My dealer says that he has unplugged the analog gauge on some customers Spyders due to this very reason, because unplugging the analog gauge causes the digital gauge in the multi-function display to then activate, which he says is much more accurate. Surely BRP does NOT think this is OK - please tell me this is not what to expect from BRP going forward.

Before I jump on the dealer again or complain loudly to BRP, I wanted to get some other Spyder owners feedback on how accurate their RT’s analog fuel gauge is. So… please chime in! Heck... at this point, I'd like to know how accurate the digital one is also - Before I unplug the analog unit, that is apparently there just for looks....

A few things:

1- The analog guage seems to be working correctly (for an analog guage)

2- The digital guages are waaaaaay more accurate, when you are down to your last bar you probably can go another 10 miles or so

3-Remember that when you unplug the analog fuel guage you must also unplug the analog temp. guage or the digital guages will not work.

4- Unplug them and enjoy your Spyder.

Cruzr joe

[NancysToy]

A lot depends on how you fill it. For best results, insert the nozzle just into the fill ring. Fill slowly, and quit when feul begins to spurt out the vent slots in the ring. You can top off until it spurts out again, but quit there or you risk overflowing to the evap canister. The fuel tank hold 6.0 usable gallons. The rest is necessary head space for expansion and venting. The low fuel light should come on with about 1.5 gallons left. That means at low fuel light you should be able to fill about 4.5 gallons. If more, you are probably overflowing to the evap canister. If less, there is a problem with the way you are filling, or the fuel sending unit/gauge.

[M&Ms_Spyder]

starting to sound like the analog fuel gauge is completely boggus or at least the issue with it reading crazay is "common"

Analog fuel and temp were not an "option" on my 2013 RT... it comes this way standard. I think I will have the dealer disconnect these "ornaments" and see how accurate the digital gauges are.

I can see the "holes" for these gauges being used for other, useful, accurate gauges.... like others suggested here. I just think this is totally unacceptable performance, QC, etc. for a discretionary toy that costs as much as these things do... Do I sound like I have buyer's remose?

[acinpcola]

My 2011 RT S gauge does the same thing. My service dealer replaced the gauge once already because of the bouncing. Now the accuracy is way off. I can fill the tank, the gauge will show filled, drive 20 miles and look down and the gauge will be at the 1/2 tank or lower mark. Talked with my service dealer about this and am taking it in on the 9th for them to get more information for BRP. If these after thought gauges are faulty then will have them removed and use the digital. Hoping for a fix for them though.

AC

[M&Ms_Spyder]

A lot depends on how you fill it. For best results, insert the nozzle just into the fill ring. Fill slowly, and quit when feul begins to spurt out the vent slots in the ring. You can top off until it spurts ourt again, but quit there or you risk overflowing to the evap canister. The fuel tank hold 6.0 usable gallons. The rest is necessary head space for expansion and venting. The low fuel light should come on with about 1.5 gallons left. That means at low fuel light you should be able to fill about 4.5 gallons. If more, you are probably overflowing to the evap canister. If less, there is a problem with the way you are filling, or the fuel sending unit/gauge.

NancysToy... so are you saying you have an analog fuel gauge that reads accurately? Or are you referring to the digital fuel gauge in the multi-function display?

Yes... I've already experienced that the tank won't fill to an indicated full on the analog gauge, if you insert the typical pump nozzle all the way into the filler hole of the Spyder... and yes, I have already apparently managed to get some fuel into the EVAP cannister trying to get the tank full - as I've had the "fuel fumes" after shutoff issue already also... talk about a quirkly machine.... just ridiculous IMHO. Is BRP still selling prototypes for its customers to debug for them or what..?

[M&Ms_Spyder]

My 2011 RT S gauge does the same thing. My service dealer replaced the gauge once already because of the bouncing. Now the accuracy is way off. I can fill the tank, the gauge will show filled, drive 20 miles and look down and the gauge will be at the 1/2 tank or lower mark. Talked with my service dealer about this and am taking it in on the 9th for them to get more information for BRP. If these after thought gauges are faulty then will have them removed and use the digital. Hoping for a fix for them though.

AC

mine is not "bouncing" around... it just goes down at apparently about twice the rate that the fuel is actually being burned. When the low fuel warning light comes on in the tach area, I still have a half a tank or more fuel actually left in the tank.
My dealer's Service Mgr. says this is normal. Or at least, I guess he meant, most of the ones he's seen exhibit this same erroneous behavior. I will take it up with Service again and ask them to press BRP for a "fix". Hello BRP.. if you're going to put gauges in the dash, the sumbeaches should work - and work well.......

[Magdave]

As much as I liked the look of the RTL I just could no justify the $6k difference in price for a little bling, gauges and shock compressor . I think My RT is a good value comparatively and the digital gauges on it work perfectly accurately. I just read you can unplug the gauges and the digital ones will show on the LCD. Plus if I want I can add a 12V plug in the blanks where the gauges are not. I can buy all the bling for about $2k and make it look the same as a RTL or even better with after market floorboards IMHO. Don't get me wrong the RTL looks pretty just over priced and I am a cheapo kinda guy who value substance over style.

[Jeriatric]

mine is not "bouncing" around... it just goes down at apparently about twice the rate that the fuel is actually being burned. When the low fuel warning light comes on in the tach area, I still have a half a tank or more fuel actually left in the tank.
My dealer's Service Mgr. says this is normal. Or at least, I guess he meant, most of the ones he's seen exhibit this same erroneous behavior. I will take it up with Service again and ask them to press BRP for a "fix". Hello BRP.. if you're going to put gauges in the dash, the sumbeaches should work - and work well.......

Spyder ownership tip. It will not get used to you......you have to get familiar with it.

While it has some quirks. If you let them get under your skin. You'll end up being another DaveNur. And, you don't want that.

Welcome aboard and might I suggest you read this.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...t=DO%27S+DONTS

[M&Ms_Spyder]

Spyder ownership tip. It will not get used to you......you have to get familiar with it.

While it has some quirks. If you let them get under your skin. You'll end up being another DaveNur. And, you don't want that.

Welcome aboard and might I suggest you read this.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...t=DO%27S+DONTS

Thanks Jerbear! , already seen it, read it - every page - studied it even - before I wrote the check actually. I found this website when researching the Spyders before we ever stepped foot in the dealers showroom. This website made me second guess my purchase reasoning for sure. Seems these are very problematic machines with long-standing, known issues that BRP has failed to address/correct over the course of several years even.

However, the spousal unit was the motivating factor behind the Spyder acquisition. She would not ride any of my 2-wheelers with me. She was the 1st person in our family to see a Spyder on the road and they really piqued her interest. The Spyder was her idea and she wanted to give it a try - so here we are. She not only promised she would ride with me, but was so motivated as to go get a motorcycle permit and wants to pilot the beast herself. She had her first OJT on it in a large empty parking lot yesterday. She had some minor problems, but nothing insurmountable at this point I don’t believe.

I like the "concept" of the Spyder - I truly do, and I want to like this beast more than anything. Open air riding, without having to worry about panic stops so much, and taking a low-side on some sand or loose rock in the road is very appealing. I'm just having a hard time wrapping my mind around BRP's somewhat poor "execution" of their design. Perhaps with more seat-time, it will grow on me, like it apparently has with so many other people.

I'm guessing DaveNur is a Spyder naysayer or something....?? I empathize with him if he is, I am feeling his pain and frustration . I was expecting a much higher level of superior engineering, refinement, bug-free manufacturing and high levels of quality control. That said, I promise not to rain on the Spyder parade here too much, because, after all, I’m in the same parade now! As long as my dealer continues to try and help me reach resolution with BRP on our Spyder’s bugs and quirks I’ll continue to try and “accommodate” it.

I do value this forum for all constructive tips, tricks, resolutions and solutions that other Spyder owners have already discovered... cause I think I'm gonna need'em.... I have found a local Spyder club and am getting connected right now. I'm sure I will find a wealth of helpful info. & experience from this group. I in fact just found someone a couple of miles from me, who is on their 2nd Spyder.

Now back to the topic of this thread - erroneous readings from the analog fuel gauge.... has anybody had any direct feedback from BRP and/or had this issue and had it resolved to their satisfaction, without resorting to unplugging it and reverting to the digital gauge in the multi function display?

[ARtraveler]

RE: the fuel guage issue. As an owner of two different RT's, I have had the same issues with both. The analog gauges are just not as accurate as the digital ones. I had two guages replaced on my 2010 and the second one responded just as badly. The guages would also bounce around going down the road. Do I have half a tank, or is it one fourth a tank? End result, I have disconnected the gauges from both my RT's and allow the digital gauges to function.

I do wholeheartedly agree that the analog gauges--for the most part--are . I also agree that we should expect better on a $30K machine. At the moment, no one is listening--so what do you do? I like the , so have chosen to live with the gas gauge "fix" (disconnect and go to digital).

Once you get to where you know what your is going to do on a consistent basis, the process will become easier. E.G. My gets a pretty much consistent 30 MPG. I zero a tripmeter each time I fill. My low fuel light goes on somewhere between 140 and 150 miles. The manual says the tank has 6.6 gal capacity. That allows for some expansion room. The most I have ever put into the tank was 5.8 gallons and that was at 184 miles. If I fill the spyder within a few miles of the low fuel light, I generally put in 5 gallons and the mileage is pretty close to 150, if I let it go that far. I don't always run my until the low fuel light goes on, most trips I get gas where I feel I need to--usually about 100 mile intervals.

Hope this will not cause you to dislike the --but it is one of the "quirks" we live with currently.

[Jeriatric]

Have a 2011 RT myself and it had the bouncing gage problem initially. Eventually it was remedied with BRP's gage replacement and BUD's update. Works fine now, and I like it. That said, I found it best to use two indicators for fuel usage on the spyder. One being the gage, and the other my trip meter for miles ridden since last fuel up. You may find as many have that your fuel consumption will vary depending on several factors. Load, wind, heat, and terrain being a few. With that in mind you'll find using both indicators will give you a much clearer picture of just what's left in the tank.

My post was not an attempt to carry BRP's water. It's true they have things they need to deal with and hope at some point they do.

Congrats to your wife and hope her learning curve isn't to steep. If she has not she should get with the GOS group. Girls on Spyders. I'm sure they would enjoy her participation.

J

[finless]

I never really paid attention to the accuracy (I don't have that many miles on my 2 week old purchase) but after coming home from a long ride, the analog fuel gage was at the red. When I filled it up it only took 3.7 gallons. So I agree it is not accurate. I think I will disconnect it even though I do like the analog temp gage.

But that has me thinking. There must be some jumper in the plug that tells the digital system that the analog gages are disconnected or connected. Might be a way to hook it up so both sets of gages still work. Time to dig into the Tupperware.
Is there a quick link to a post showing how to remove the dash?

Bob

[Jeriatric]

Compliments of Dave01.

"4 torx head screws that hold the cover in place. Turn the handlebar all the way to the right. Carefully pull the plastic that the guages are mounted to and the whole piece will come off. Reach behind the guages and disconnect the 3wire group from each guage and thats it. Takes maybe 10 minutes to do. Remember, the center guage ( information center) will stay in place and only the plastic that the 2 guages are mounted to will come off."

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...ges#post217626

[Buttsy]

Before I jump on the dealer again or complain loudly to BRP, I wanted to get some other Spyder owners feedback on how accurate their RT’s analog fuel gauge is. So… please chime in!

Mine has always and seems to continue to perform just fine.

[NancysToy]

NancysToy... so are you saying you have an analog fuel gauge that reads accurately? Or are you referring to the digital fuel gauge in the multi-function display?

Yes... I've already experienced that the tank won't fill to an indicated full on the analog gauge, if you insert the typical pump nozzle all the way into the filler hole of the Spyder... and yes, I have already apparently managed to get some fuel into the EVAP cannister trying to get the tank full - as I've had the "fuel fumes" after shutoff issue already also... talk about a quirkly machine.... just ridiculous IMHO. Is BRP still selling prototypes for its customers to debug for them or what..?

The analog gauges on both my RTs (two on the 2010) have all read fairly accurately, indicated full when filled as I described above, and showed between 1/8 (red) and 1/4 tank when the fuel light came on. They may bounce, but lots of undampened gauges do that. Mine have all steadied out towrd the mottom, except the first on my RT, which was replaced with a redisgned unit. Look in the tank after it is full. The fuel level should be 1/2" or so below the fill ring. If it is considerably lower, your technique probably needs adjusting. If it is near the ring, your fuel gauge/sender is likely faulty.

[Blue Star]

A lot depends on how you fill it. For best results, insert the nozzle just into the fill ring. Fill slowly, and quit when feul begins to spurt out the vent slots in the ring. You can top off until it spurts ourt again, but quit there or you risk overflowing to the evap canister. The fuel tank hold 6.0 usable gallons.

This is how I fill my tank.

starting to sound like the analog fuel gauge is completely boggus or at least the issue with it reading crazay is "common"

Sadly, these gauges really are a joke. I origionally disconnected my guages, but went back to having them connected as I liked them lit up on the dash. I ride mostly at night (to work), and the light is a good thing.

But the analog gauges you paid for do look cool.

Yep

[AbNormy]

From Deep in the Hart of Texas!

[Pennyrick]

M & M:

Your initial post kinda heated me up but your subsequent posts show more tolerance. I am glad you are willing to give the machine a chance because I think you will enjoy it.

We used the analog gauges on our first set of RT's (a '10 and and '11) but finally came to rely on the trip meter for fill ups. We both got in the habit of filling up after 135-140 miles driven between fill ups.

The 2012 RT's we now own seem to have more accurate analog gauges but because I wanted to see my oil pressure and battery condition, I changed the gauges out and now use the digital ones for temperature and fuel. My wife left her Spyder stock. Her low fuel light comes on a bit before mine does and her gauge usually indicates she has about a quarter of a tank. My digital gauge gets down to two bars before the light comes on and I have run the Spyder until no bars are showing. I think it took 5.8 gallons to fill it at that point.

One day I decided to play with the low fuel light with two bars showing and found I could make it go on and off by riding up and down my lane. We have a 400 foot lane that is quite steep at the end and if powered up going uphill I could activate the light. I also found I could activate it by swerving from side to side. That didn't prove anything other than the fuel swishes around a lot and can impact the sending unit in different ways.

Welcome to the Spyder family.... lots of pricy things have quirks.... it's just part of the experience.

[Dan McNally]

I'd rather have a fuel gauge that says: "Fill me now!" when it still has gas . . . than one that says: "You should have filled me five miles ago . . . now I am empty!"

[finless]

I'd rather have a fuel gauge that says: "Fill me now!" when it still has gas . . . than one that says: "You should have filled me five miles ago . . . now I am empty!"

Bob

[flaggerphil]

The original gauge on my 2011 RT-AC used to bounce all over the place...it was basically unusable. I relied on the trip meter, which was easy for me because I didn't have a fuel gauge at all on my old V-Star 1300T. When I moved to Florida the guys at Central Florida Power Sports told me BRP had improved the gauge and they'd install a new one under warranty. They did so, but the new one was broken from the git go...stuck on full and never moved. They took it out and installed a third one, and that one has worked just fine. It's not prefect, but it's fairly accurate and lets me know what's going on with the gas...it pretty much agrees with my trip meter. Haven't had any problems since I had the third one put in.

[CruiseRT]

A lot depends on how you fill it. For best results, insert the nozzle just into the fill ring. Fill slowly, and quit when feul begins to spurt out the vent slots in the ring. You can top off until it spurts ourt again, but quit there or you risk overflowing to the evap canister. The fuel tank hold 6.0 usable gallons. The rest is necessary head space for expansion and venting. The low fuel light should come on with about 1.5 gallons left. That means at low fuel light you should be able to fill about 4.5 gallons. If more, you are probably overflowing to the evap canister. If less, there is a problem with the way you are filling, or the fuel sending unit/gauge.

This is exactly how mine works 2013 RTL. When I went to pick it up when I bought it the fuel guage did not even work, the dealer changed it out with another 2013 he had in the show room. It takes some getting used to. Its really good to know when the fuel light comes on I still have 30 to 40 miles left to find another gas station.

[diesel-dawg]

I rode my 2013 RT Ltd yesterday for 200 miles. I filled the spyder up and at 110 miles, the fuel light came on. I ran it for another 18 miles. When I filled up, I had 128.4 miles on the trip meter. It only took 4.8 gallons. which is about 27 mpg. So, at lease, I know my spyder will do 125 miles easily with plenty of fuel left. The analog guage is terrible, as most have said. Can't you activate the digital fuel guage without unplugging the analog?