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  1. #26
    Very Active Member Highwayman2013's Avatar
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    I did mine and did not need to use a vacuum tool. Just leave the key off after releasing the park brake and then start with the left front. Put a rubber or clear hose on the bleeder and put it in a clear container with enough brake fluid in it to cover the bottom of the hose. This will keep air out. Open the bleeder and slowly pump the brake pedal until all the dirty fluid comes out (keep filling the reservoir with fresh fluid so it doesn't run dry. Shut the bleeder and repeat at right front then the rear. You can use the vacuum if you want that should work fine as well. I had a vacuum tool but turned out not to need it.
    2016 F3 Limited
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  2. #27
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    My experience with the Mitty Vac was it "sucked" too good and I kept getting tiny bubbles. Found out the bubbles were coming from the bleeder valve threads. So now I remove the valves and add a little teflon tape to the threads then put back. Never a problem after that. I have found a Motion Pro bleeder to be easy to use also. It has a one way valve.

    http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0143/
    2021 F3 Ltd , Magna Red

  3. #28
    Very Active Member SNOOPY's Avatar
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    This took some deep searching. Thanks....if you’re still around




    Quote Originally Posted by skeetshooter View Post
    I just changed my brake fluid and bled the vcm.As long as you don't turn key on you won't get any codes.Every thing works perfect.I have a 2008 gs
    Quote Originally Posted by skeetshooter View Post
    I used 1 friend 1 quart dot 3-4.I sucked the old fluid out with a turkey baster then filled it up with new fluid.We started on left front stuck a piece of clear tubing over bleeder valve my friend worked the bleeder while i worked the brake peddle.We pump until we got clear fluid.We then did the right front then the back all the same way.Just be sure bleeder valve is closed before you let brake peddle up each time.The vcm is hard to get to, went in on left side pulled left panels off to get to it.The bleeder valve is on top it is hell to get clear tubing over bleeder valve.It would have been alot easier to take the trunk off but it can be done without it.Be sure to keep fluid near full when doing it you don't want to get air in system.I
    used just about the whole quart,took about 1 hour 1 1/2 we had to stop and drink a few shop supplies.Its easy to do just watch what your doing.

  4. #29
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    Vacuum bleeder works well for a one person job and found when I owned a Honda and bleed the clutch a vacuum bleeder saved me lots of headaches. I could not get the Honda bleed correctly until I put a vacuum bleeder on it. IMO saves times and one person can do the job at hand

  5. #30
    Very Active Member irvin48's Avatar
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    just did mine yesterday and had my wife pump the pedal and hold it.
    no codes , no problems. did suck out the master and refill as needed.
    lots of info on here. thanks for all the help here amidst all the threads!!
    --irv
    Last edited by irvin48; 07-25-2018 at 09:01 AM.
    2015 rts-white pearl- mods- '16 F3 fat 6 chrome wheels,
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  6. #31
    Very Active Member SNOOPY's Avatar
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    You’re welcome


    Actually just redid mine this afternoon after throwing a code this weekend.


    And...I did the stupid procedure by the CanAm manual.

    Put a hose on EACH bleeder valve including the ABS box.

    left, right, back, ABS

    battery disconnected whole time, ebrake off.

    Even went through the trouble of adding Teflon tape to each bleeder valve (not at ABS )

    Nice clear fluid through everything.

    On my ST-S the ABS box can actually be reached through the left wheel opening very easily

    Topped off fluids along the way, buttoned everything back up.

    Replaced battery at the same time. ( 5 years old in 2 weeks)

    Turn key on, parking brake back on, threw no codes.


    We are in monsoon season apparently so haven’t started it or ridden it yet, but have a more solid pedal than I’ve had in a long time.


    .
    Last edited by SNOOPY; 07-24-2018 at 05:07 PM. Reason: No one will read this anyhow. Lol

  7. #32
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    You really need to take it in to the dealer to do the BUDS bleeding process now. Not sure what all it does other than a calibration of the electronic distribution module with the pressure in the system. Remember, the braking system is controlled by Nanny so you'll want to be sure Nanny has all the requisite data to properly control the brakes. From what I read in the manual the one thing that can happen if all is not calibrated is the rear wheel can lock up under hard braking. It won't do that if the ABS is calibrated and working correctly.

    There's no way to know by riding if the brake system is in proper condition for it to be controlled by Nanny.

    2014 Copper RTS

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    2014 RTS , Copper! (officially Cognac)

  8. #33
    Very Active Member SNOOPY's Avatar
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    Going to try to get it to the dealer.

    Problem is we only have one close dealer and they sell all kinds of bikes, atv’s and watercraft...so hard to get in and get out. Not leaving the bike for two days for a half hour job.

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