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  1. #1
    Member ICE's Avatar
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    Default bleeding brakes with vacuum system

    Has anyone successfully used a Mity Vac bleeder or similar system to bleed the brakes on the Spyder?. If so, what would be the proper bleeding sequence?

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    PostZilla member Bob Denman's Avatar
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    I'm not familiar with the commercial setups... but they sure should work just fine!
    I had a Polaris ATV that would just get so airbound that you couldn't pump up anything with the lever...
    Solution? I'd hook a Turkey baster up to the bleed valve (with it's bulb fully squeezed and compressed)
    Open the valve, release the bulb, and it'd pull the fluid down through the system slicker than snot!

    So if a nincompoop like me can figure that one out; it's got to work!

    Out with the old; in with the "WOO-HOO "
    2014 RT Limited: #2444: Born on Jan 30th, 2014

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    Senior Member ulflyer's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=Bob Denman;651076] Solution? I'd hook a Turkey baster up to the bleed valve (with it's bulb fully squeezed and compressed)
    Open the valve, release the bulb, and it'd pull the fluid down through the system slicker than snot!

    QUOTE]

    Bob, sounds reasonable, but will you test it out on your spider and let us know if it work?
    ted
    Favorite Dealer: Winston-Salem Honda/Can-Am, N.C.

    White 2014 RT SE, Vin 0568 built 12/20/13, 10K as of 1 Sep 14
    1st new tire at 5750mi...Pirelli P4 205-60-15
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    Wired for Gerbing heated clothes,
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    Previous Ride: Viper Red '11 Rt Se 32,000 when traded.

  5. #4
    PostZilla member Bob Denman's Avatar
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    Ummmm...
    I've not actually looked into what might be necessary to bleed the brakes on Fawkes yet...
    I will say that my RT's brakes work great; I'm thinking about ordering some EBC pads for a bit of an upgrade when the time comes to replace the OEMs...

    Out with the old; in with the "WOO-HOO "
    2014 RT Limited: #2444: Born on Jan 30th, 2014

  6. #5
    SpyderLovers Sponsor jthornton's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ICE View Post
    Has anyone successfully used a Mity Vac bleeder or similar system to bleed the brakes on the Spyder?. If so, what would be the proper bleeding sequence?
    I use a Mity Vac on my bikes but the Spyder doesn't have enough mileage yet. I'd recommend downloading one of the service manuals so you can have the bleeding instructions at hand as there are about 5-6 pages of instructions. IIRC you need to disconnect the battery when bleeding so BUDS won't go into alarm for low pressure.

    JT

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    PostZilla member Bob Denman's Avatar
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    Disconnect the WHAT?? And lose all of my radio presets, clock settings, audio settings, and whatever else when the World goes dark?

    Out with the old; in with the "WOO-HOO "
    2014 RT Limited: #2444: Born on Jan 30th, 2014

  8. #7
    Ride Forrest Ride! effgjamis's Avatar
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    Well ????? danger,,,, danger,,,, danger,, ID 10 T is approaching..
    Original FL XPRESS 5
    "Silver RT ( Iron Horse). Let the miles begin.


  9. #8
    PostZilla member Bob Denman's Avatar
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    "ID10T" is my driver's license number!

    Out with the old; in with the "WOO-HOO "
    2014 RT Limited: #2444: Born on Jan 30th, 2014

  10. #9
    Senior Member finless's Avatar
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    You wont loose your radio preset disconnecting the battery.

    JT, I always read if you do your own break work (like flushing, etc) you have to have buds to clear codes?
    Does unhooking the battery actually work?

    Bob

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    SpyderLovers Sponsor jthornton's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by finless View Post
    You wont loose your radio preset disconnecting the battery.

    JT, I always read if you do your own break work (like flushing, etc) you have to have buds to clear codes?
    Does unhooking the battery actually work?

    Bob
    Bob,

    I've not done it on my Spyder yet, I just did a quick review of the process in the service manual and it does say to check pressure with BUDS hooked up so I assume if you check pressure with the battery disconnected you won't trip the BUDS Nanny. I'm not sure what would happen if you pump the pedal with the battery connected and no pressure. One thing for sure if the battery is not connected BUDS must fall asleep after any caps run out of juice.

    JT

  12. #11
    Senior Member finless's Avatar
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    I have always done my own break jobs on most my cars. When the time comes I sure would like to do it on my Spyder. Mechanically it does not look hard at all.
    So if you ever do it yourself and it works, it would be great to write it up so those that want to save money can

    Thanks!
    Bob

  13. #12
    PostZilla member Bob Denman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by finless View Post
    You wont loose your radio preset disconnecting the battery.
    Well THAT'S a relief!

    You have no idea how much trouble I had figuring out how to stuff them into the radio the first time...

    Out with the old; in with the "WOO-HOO "
    2014 RT Limited: #2444: Born on Jan 30th, 2014

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    SpyderLovers Sponsor jthornton's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by finless View Post
    I have always done my own break jobs on most my cars. When the time comes I sure would like to do it on my Spyder. Mechanically it does not look hard at all.
    So if you ever do it yourself and it works, it would be great to write it up so those that want to save money can

    Thanks!
    Bob
    It will be 8500 miles from now for me...

    JT

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    ...in the pink (Girls On Spyders) flamingobabe's Avatar
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    Mark replaced my pads and bleed the brakes on my 2009 RS...we had to go to dealer...hookup to BUDS...$50....but if we ever get the ST back on the road and to the point that I need brakes...we'll try to unhook battery and see what happens

    Save the Pink Flamingo...in the pink...
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  16. #15
    Senior Member skeetshooter's Avatar
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    Default Bleeding Brakes

    I just changed my brake fluid and bled the vcm.As long as you don't turn key on you won't get any codes.Every thing works perfect.I have a 2008 gs

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    Senior Member ulflyer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by skeetshooter View Post
    I just changed my brake fluid and bled the vcm.As long as you don't turn key on you won't get any codes.Every thing works perfect.I have a 2008 gs
    Can you amplify on the procedures used? Some of us have been tempted to give this a try but are hesitant. Did you start with a certain wheel and work your way around? What tools?
    Any info you can provide will be apprec.
    ted
    Favorite Dealer: Winston-Salem Honda/Can-Am, N.C.

    White 2014 RT SE, Vin 0568 built 12/20/13, 10K as of 1 Sep 14
    1st new tire at 5750mi...Pirelli P4 205-60-15
    Clutch cover screw replaced
    Utopia back rest
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    Wired for Gerbing heated clothes,
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    Previous Ride: Viper Red '11 Rt Se 32,000 when traded.

  18. #17
    Senior Member Big Arm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ulflyer View Post
    Can you amplify on the procedures used? Some of us have been tempted to give this a try but are hesitant. Did you start with a certain wheel and work your way around? What tools?
    Any info you can provide will be apprec.

    ....and we're gonna ride, we're gonna ride.....
    ride like the one-eyed Jack of Diamonds, with
    the devil close behind,.....we're gonna ride....

  19. #18
    Senior Member skeetshooter's Avatar
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    Default Bleeding Brakes

    I used 1 friend 1 quart dot 3-4.I sucked the old fluid out with a turkey baster then filled it up with new fluid.We started on left front stuck a piece of clear tubing over bleeder valve my friend worked the bleeder while i worked the brake peddle.We pump until we got clear fluid.We then did the right front then the back all the same way.Just be sure bleeder valve is closed before you let brake peddle up each time.The vcm is hard to get to, went in on left side pulled left panels off to get to it.The bleeder valve is on top it is hell to get clear tubing over bleeder valve.It would have been alot easier to take the trunk off but it can be done without it.Be sure to keep fluid near full when doing it you don't want to get air in system.I
    used just about the whole quart,took about 1 hour 1 1/2 we had to stop and drink a few shop supplies.Its easy to do just watch what your doing.

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  21. #19
    Senior Member finless's Avatar
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    Thank you! I am saving this post until the time comes!

    Bob

  22. #20
    Senior Member 2 Stricklands's Avatar
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    Post I have disconnected my battery several times - no problems

    I have 1 2011 RT SE5. I have not had to bleed the brakes, but disconnecting the battery should not be a problem. I have disconnected mine several times to add relays, switches, etc. No Codes and nothing needed reset.



    When all is said and done......well it must be time to ride~
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    ]

  23. #21
    SpyderLovers Sponsor jthornton's Avatar
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    Just reading the service manual this morning and like skeetshooter did the bleeding sequence is:
    Left Front
    Right Front
    Rear
    VCM

    They have you do all kinds of things and some I don't understand and some make sense:
    remove front wheels
    remove the calipers and position bleeder at highest point
    detach lift cylinder and passenger switch from seat
    unplug low pressure switch connector and brake light connector
    detach brake fluid reservoir and move to outside the footrest

    Ah here is the note: the previous steps are required for the hoses to run completely down toward the master cylinder.

    Then they go into installing clear hose on bleeder valves and bleeding the brakes...

    JT

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  25. #22
    PostZilla member Bob Denman's Avatar
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    ... You do the Hokey Pokey, and you turn yourself about...


    Out with the old; in with the "WOO-HOO "
    2014 RT Limited: #2444: Born on Jan 30th, 2014

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